Cool! I also got my bike back today but need to buy an alternate Di2 solution as I don't have an integreated bento (Slice) and the pic of my 5-port velcro'd to to the bar top would probably make everyone sad.

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

Do we have a rough ETA on the tririg skewers? Will they be out this year?

Should be ready in June.

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TriRig.com

Hi, I need help, posted here for maximum potential input. It goes like this.

2015 Slice. I used to be able to hold / push the bike by the saddle and it would stand / roll along easily. Now that the bars have been changed the front end is terribly floppy, and the edge of the TriRig brake *slams* into my headtube and has unfortunately already chipped my new paint job. This can't continue.

* Can anyone provide input here on how to make the new bar setup less floppy?

Next issue. I got the TriRig extensions, and I have the 2-button bar end shifters (Di2). Due to the bends in the bars and the length of the shifters, I can't get the buttons as close to my hands as I want unless I only put my elbow tips on the pads and my forearms are angled up and my wrists down to the shifters. I don't like this, and wrist angle is one of the things that needed fixing with the bike's stock extension setup. (I don't like my forearm off the pad or the angle of my wrist to the shifters.)

I see 3 solutions and would like input on these:
1) cut the bars below the 2nd bend, making the shifters stick up to the sky (instead of forward and up).
2) swap out to the 1-button shifters which seem shorter in overall length. (I can't return the 2-button ones as too much time has passed, would have to try to sell them).
3) try to find alternate extensions with a diffterent angle at the first bend so I can achieve the desired overall length and angle. But I have no idea what alternate extensions to buy and the highly shortened TriRig extensions would be a total loss.

(I'll try to get the picture of my bars to load, though frankly don't understand how to do so from a mobile device).



ETA, please ignore the zip tie install of the Garmin mount as it is a temporary solution, as is the deck mounted junction box & snarl of wires.

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

That may simply be a difference in how your headset was preloaded. If it was stiffer before, the preload was probably causing drag in the bearings. You could tighten the preload to get closer to that, at the potential expense of shorter bearing life.


Solution 1 is not recommended - the inner diameter of Gamma One is not controlled past the first bend, so you might not be able to insert your shifter again. You'll have a hard time finding a double-bend extension that meets your requirements. The first design input was to make that area as short as possible while achieving 75mm of rise in a double bend. So you would most likely need to switch to a single bend, with an angle of 40-degrees or more.

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TriRig.com

My guess is that your cables were restricting movement before. The only viable solution I can think of is to put bumpers on your frame.

My TriRig Alpha One is also very 'floppy'. As Rruff mentions it's likely due to no restriction from the cables. I've put a small piece of gaffa tape on each side of the head tube where the Omega X hits it, but would also like a better solution if someone comes up with one. After transport one needs to be aware of the Omega X still being centered as knocking it against the frame can sometimes cause it to lose alignment.

Thanks for your response. I'll try slicing nalgene tubing and taping that along the brake mounting plate. It won't be pretty but is an easy to implement interim solution.

But on cables adding restriction - sure they limited the handlebar range of motion when the bike was assembled, however while packing the bike for travel, with stem on but bars and front brake removed, the rotational / pivot movement of the fork was smooth but not as loose as it currently is. I get the weight of the current assembly vs the partly unassembled structure above is different and could add to a different feel, however my feeling is the rotation used to feel more solid. I was actually wondering if the stock trapezoidal cone stem spacer was the thing initially providing the friction I'm missing, that is gone since it's replacement with 2 of the TR aero spacers.

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

Here's my confusion. We couldn't use my original headset expansion bolt assembly (see p16 in this pdf), so this one has been installed instead (https://d1vfu4m1fkicia.cloudfront.net/...tW/FSPXFBUMK2_P1.jpg)

We didn't know how stable the aero stem cap would be to tightening down on that for a preload (it's carbon, right? not aluminum?). The mechanic grabbed another cap to use to pre-load, then tightened the stem bolts, then changed out that temp cap for the aero one. But I didn't get given the cap he used to do the preload and I can't use the Slice original one b/c if I grab the cone spacer to make the cap be high enough to not hit the top of the now used headset, the bolt I have isn't long enough to engage the expansion bolt.

Go easy on me, I'm a little out of my element here. Is there some other way to set the preload? Do I just need to get the cap that maybe came with this headset?

Advice? Thanks!!

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

I think, given the similar experience of other users, the idea that it's about cable routing is more likely the cause. So maybe don't mess with the headset. However, you can use the Alpha One's cable cover for headset preload. It's rated to keep its shape past 6-7 Nm of torque, which should be more than enough to preload a headset.

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TriRig.com

Thank you. I appreciate your input.

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

For the headset: Your issue could be easily fixed with those thin headset dust cap shims (NOT STEM SPACERS). The 0.25mm thick metal shims that sit between the headset bearings and dust cover and will give you the clearance you need.

For the extensions. Yep, it sucks to buy new extensions, but it sounds like the current extension aren't for you. ). You'd be far better off to go with cheaper alloy j-bends than to (PD t4+, 3T, Vision, Tula) than to struggle with an expensive carbon bar that will never feel right.

@gregtay sorry for the delayed response.

The 5 port junction fits in the cavity. It doesn't fully go into the cavity but the space created by the top plate creates enough room. In the below picture I simply removed the cover. Everything sticks out of the cavity a little, but the cover fits without any issue. It doesn't feel like I am squishing the cables when i put on the cover. There is just enough room. Note: you must take care to make sure the screw doesn't clamp down the wires that lead into the stem, they have to be spread a little.




Nice looking bike :)

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2016 Specialized Shiv Pro Race 1x
2015 Specialized Venge

@gregtay can you please post an image of your hydration system mods? I would like to try that. Thanks

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2016 Specialized Shiv Pro Race 1x
2015 Specialized Venge

any reason why you didn't "slam that stem" and use the mono-riser to bring up to proper stack?

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Aaaaargh - just last night I ordered additional parts to work around the "no way the 5-port goes in" position my mechanic and I had come to. Waahhhhh.

But thank you for the photographic evidence. It should be quite helpful to others.

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

Not sure of his answer but my guess is the steerer tube. I also had to put two spacers underneath in order to put the stem cap on and my steerer tube is cut pretty low. My mono is almost slammed. It's on 1.

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

We have had similar "photographic evidence" on the Alpha One FAQ page for over a year: https://www.tririg.com/...lphaone&page=faq (bottom of page)

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TriRig.com

I still think you went down the right path. I played with getting the 5 port in there and with the brake cable housing terminating in the bottom of the cavity you really run into issues. Possible? Maybe, but it is going to be a challenge every time you have to get the the 5 port and put it back in place.

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______________________________________________
Team Zoot

I will grab some photos today.

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______________________________________________
Team Zoot

Short answer: afraid to.
Longer answer:

• I had assumed I’d need to use the stock cone-shaped headset cap based on my risk adverse interpretation of owners manuals and supplements.
• My mechanic installed the aero spacers to mimic the use of the stock head cap. This seemed like a good compromise since I was nervous about over-committing with my first ever steer tube cut.

But the pic is already out-of-date:

• While investigating how to resolve my handle bar/ fork rotational issue, I observed that the red rubber seal on the upper headset bearing was visible between the frame and the aero spacer. It didn’t appear either the spacer or the shim that was in there were protecting the bearing from potential ingress of environmental dirt / water.
• I reinstalled the stock headset cone. This part is 5-10 mm taller than the two aero spacers were, and the resulting lessening of slack to the rear brake line has suitably helped with my rotational concern. (The brake edge can still hit the frame, but now it takes purposely turning the bars that far.)

Still to come:

• I’d like to reinstall the trailing aero stem cap but need a new threaded insert. When the prior build was disassembled, this part was removed by screwing it off the frame, leaving behind the thread insert above the top tube, attached through the frame by a bolt accessed from the bottom of the headtube. My LBS didn’t understand what he was looking at or how to get it off, and the painters’ interpretation was that the threaded insert had pulled out of the top tube; so he “repaired it”. Can anyone tell me how to buy a new threaded insert of the right size type? I hope that small part is easier to replace than it would be to order a new aero stem cap part from a supplier in Europe.

Ps: Has anyone ever repaired chips in their painted carbon with nail polish? I’m pretty bummed by the number of blemishes this newly painted frame has already.

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

Yes, you do. And I saw that. But I didn't understand what I was seeing. I thought it was like an instructional diagram, showing where the item is placed and I took it to mean the 5-port would lie within that cavity. I didn't understand that the extra "headspace" provided by the aero covering was how the 5-port was actually accommodated, until this morning.

My mechanic initially said the rear brake cable couldn’t be run through the handle bars, because the aero stem cap wouldn’t go on with the brake line in there. He hadn’t seen the alpha 1 before and I was sending him screen shots of brake lines coming out the back gap, and relayed that others had filed the 5-port to get it to fit. In the end he removed the barrel adjuster (!) and routed a new brake line through the bars, but neither of us understood there was enough room under the curve of the TR cap to let the 5-port fit. He gave me the bike with the 5-port attached by velcro on top of the installed cap.

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

FYI the 5-port goes back in without issue. I have taken it out several times to charge.

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2016 Specialized Shiv Pro Race 1x
2015 Specialized Venge

I'm guessing you're running full housing to the front brake?

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To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.

yes

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2016 Specialized Shiv Pro Race 1x
2015 Specialized Venge