sure can:

Mono Spacers
15mm W326500
25mm W326501
35mm W326502
45mm W326503

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Carl Matson

Mine came with the one I ordered installed then the other three in a box. Ask the PO if they still have them. Otherwise, Carl would know whether or not they can be ordered.

Hi Carl,
SC 9 is the best bike I've ever ridden. It's by far better than P5 that was socks on quality. I'm very satisfied with all aspects that Treck has provided, except only a minor issue of rattle somewhere in the frame. One of the rattle may occur in the bottom of the frame, because LBS had placed Junction-B at the bottom in the frame. I'm not sure if it causes the rattle or not. Nevertheless, do you think that I should ask LBS to station the Junction-B in the air above BB, using a couple of zip ties ? And, another rattle occurs in the steering handle at the left side, running rear brake housing and e-tube inside. The cable housing is set rather longer, Do you have any advise how the rattle can be terminated ?

Glad to hear you like the bike!

Rattles are usually caused by housing or wiring resting on the inside of the frame or the handlebar with just the right amount of slack (or tension) that allows them to move for every little bump in the road. With Di2 the common practice is to use zipties along the length of the wires at regular intervals. For cable housing you can try something similar, or try changing the length of the housing so it's either longer (presses against the inside of the tubes firmly) or shorter (moves away from the walls).

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,
Thanks for telling the advise. I can understand the rattle can be erased by adjusting the housing length. And, I have another question. Is it possible to ride the bike without any mono spacer ?

The integrated cockpit requires a monospacer.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl, Thanks so much for all your help on the forum. I have a quick question about the part number for the pads to replace those on my Speed Concept 9 (2014 model). The fabric has come off and the local bike store seems to have them confused with the replacement pads for Bontrager Race Lites (which of course do not fit). Cheers.

Just picked them up myself.

Arm Pads (Pair)
437028

Arm Pad Holders (Pair)
437029

437028, cheers!

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Carl Matson

try zipp pads so much more comfy!

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Hi Carl,
I brought my brand new SC9 for LBS due to rattle and creak. And, he grabbed my bike and forced it roughly warp at about 5 degree a few times, by trampling his foot on the pedal and twisting hard the steering handle at full strength. Then, it proved no manufacturing flaw on my frame. However, I was pretty shocked with his act. Do you think that my bike or BB was damaged even potentially ? I'll check it when the bike has came back to me.

I have no idea. Shops can be very creative in how they check things.

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Carl Matson

Hello,

I have a choice to make here, How much difference between two bike ? Is they make huge difference in bike split (70.3 and Ironman) between 2013 and 2014 Trek SC ?

1-2014 Trek Speed Concept 9.8- $8k +
2- 2013 Trek Speed Concept 9.9- $3000-4000

I would appreciate any opinions.

Hi Dan7
I used to ride the fisrt SC version, now i have the new one.
No cons
Pros in the new one (2014)
Less weight
More aero
Easier to take apart
Bigger draft box
Better speed box
And still waiting for the speed storage =(

CeeGee Cushy.

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

How about replacement stems? Are those part numbers available anywhere?

Stems (With Cover)
Low Near 436145
Low Far 436146
Med Near 436147
Med Far 436148
High Near 436149
High Far 436150

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Carl Matson

This goes to any of the mechanics out there or Carl.

What is the best method for removing the plastic shell of the bottom bracket? The bearings are no problem as I have the park bearing removal tool. But what is the preferred method to remove the two piece plastic shell?

Thanks

pretty easy, as it's just a couple of plastic pieces telescoped into each other...I wedge a couple fingers in from each side and give a slight twist. the park tool can do it too (you can see a ridge in there that it'll catch), but it's pretty easy to damage the shell that way.

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Carl Matson

Thanks

Hi Carl,
My SC9 came back to me. There found no issue on the frame and BB. Unfortunately, LBS couldn't fix rattle noise of the rear brake housing at shoulder and exit in the steering handle, saying a metal connection parts of the rear brake located on the top side of the SC9 frame should be pressed with stronger torque by the long housing cable.
So, my questions are, where the best place is to put the metal connection parts of the rear brake, and where better place is to place rubber parts (i.e. jog wire) to terminate the rattle ? Is it possible to show them in picture ? I'm using the far/mid stem.

Carl : is it so that if you have a Speed concept 9.9 TRI you can't buy the UCI legal front fork and bars? only while you buy it as a procject one bike?

As I've had a similar issue in the past (my metal connection piece was actually missing when the frame was delivered) let me first tell you that there is no real need to use the metal piece. The only purpose it serves is to make it easier to change the aerobar setup after the first build. With the connector you don't have to remove all of the cable housing but only the part within the aerobar. I in the end - I knew my position - did use a single piece of outer brake cable housing. So no metal to rattle. I'd suggest to do the same. if there's still some rattling - which can occur with the brake cable liner just hitting the inside of the down tube, I'd suggest to insert a longer piece of foam into the downtube. I had to do this, too in order to stop the rattling noises on rough roads.

Hope this helps!


Tim

Tim makes a good point re: not needing to use the double-ended ferrule. As he says, it's there to make future position changes a little easier by letting you re-do only the cockpit housing vs the whole bike.

If you do choose to keep that piece in the assembly, you can move it anywhere you want (e.g. away from other connectors or components) simply by changing the lengths of housing coming into it from each end. As an example: to move it further into the cockpit, make the housing from the BB longer and the housing from the brake lever shorter.

The foam idea is one anti-rattle option, though it probably works best in the frame where there's lots of room...in the bar you might try small rubber O-rings at regular intervals along the housing.

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Carl Matson

Currently the easiest way to get a UCI-legal SC is at initial purchase via Project One.

For aftermarket, the bar and UCI rear brake cover can be ordered directly by your dealer, but they need to work through their Trek sales rep to obtain a fork because those are not part of the regular distribution channel yet.

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Carl Matson