first of all my apologies for the long delay in answering. I was away in a training camp without internet (yipee!) and then sick (argh).
@Baydad: You can install the FSA Gosammer Classic or a Rotor 3D Type S straight in the bottom bracket.
@mattjevans: I am not entirely sure on that one. If the XX1 have the same axle length and interface you can use it. If the axle is longer the chain line would be off. Loctite on the three bolts is recommended, also on the lock ring on the Rotor 3D. If you order the Rotor 3D with cranks it comes installed.
@dyarab: If you have a Classic please make sure to use a Renata battery. The shape of other brands is slightly different and doesn't fit the holder of the Classic properly, risking false contacts and damage. On a Type S you can use an Energizer. Renata batteries are available through us or Amazon.
@RN86314: It's difficult to compare data, especially on flat courses. First one would need to know how data is recorded - maybe your data includes zeroes and theirs doesn't. Second race dynamics are very important. If you ride with other people draft legal you still get a big benefit. Your average may drop further relative to your normalized power if riding was uneven due to race dynamics. I usually do a manual zero on race morning before the swim and during the race every time I coast more than 2 seconds the unit rezeroes automatically. FWIW my fastest bike split was at IM Florida on really low watts, because of the course, wind conditions, and race dynamics. On other races I got much worse watts for speed.
@BionicMan: on a Classic you need to remove the crank arm to install the large chain ring. Please be careful with FSA rings - some of the small rings have little indents around the bolt holes. Those are not compatible, as they warp on the power meter. Unfortunately FSA chose a non-standard format for those rings.
All the best
official power meter of Movistar Team