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dbraat wrote:
Your websites 3-7 days shipping estimate is going to start looking like 2-3 weeks which is fairly disappointing.

I recently ordered 2 PMs. One was received in 1 week, the other took 2.5 weeks. The 2.5 week PM took a few extra days to ship and it sat in customs for over a week.
GAAAH! I suppose that makes sense. Frustrating though. Thanks for the response.
No questions. Just wanted to relay that I ordered an FSA Gossamer with P2M type S using the Black Friday deal of free chainrings and assembly. Package arrived in Ohio quickly and my LBS installed on my Speed Concept. Had my first ride outdoors with power yesterday and all worked perfectly! Happy customer!
Last edited by: bdungan: Dec 10, 15 14:45
Found out my wife was trying to buy me a P2M for Christmas when she left the computer tab open. We don't understand all the bike stuff and I am confused on which P2M to order. From what I can tell I would end up spending around $900.00 for the$600.00 P2M since I would need the chain rings and spacers as well as the assembly. I can't find any specs on my bike to know what width my bottom bracket housing is or the diameter of the tube inside the bottom bracket and don't have any real way to measure if I took it apart. My bike is a 2009 Scott Plasma 10. It currently has a megaexo bottom bracket and a 130 BCD, which I assume doesn't matter since I would be getting new chain rings. I ride 175 crank lengths. Do you have any suggestions on how I could get a 100% fit, form, and functional product the first time around? My only other option would be pedal based but I have read great things about your P2M and I like the lower cost.

Thanks,

http://www.sfuelsgolonger.com
Mega exo is fsa's 24mm diameter bottom bracket. It's very likely that you have a 68 mm english threaded bottom bracket. The fsa gossamer with 24mm spindle option should be a drop in replacement and would be your least expensive option. If you stick with 130 BCD you can probably reuse your rings as well (not sure about this), however if you want to use compact or mid compact you will need the 110 BCD option. The rotor 3d will also work but you will usually need a new bottom bracket as well since the FSA and shimano 24mm diameters aren't quite equivalent. It is also nearly two hundred dollars more expensive.
Last edited by: cobra_kai: Dec 11, 15 6:14
Loving my type s so far, used it yesterday to make myself to a massive 70.3 bike split pb :)

One thing that annoys me a bit is my garmins (500 and 910) always prompt me to calibrate the power meter on start up. My understanding it power2max does a auto zero offset when you stop pedalling, so I don't need to "calibrate" each ride. If that it correct is there a way to stop the garmin prompting to do a manual zero offset?
Last edited by: Mr E: Dec 13, 15 17:48
Hi,

I'm looking at getting a new crankset & a p2m to go with it. I currently am using dura ace 7900 crankarms. Without having to mess with a new bottom bracket--because I don't know much about brackets and adapters, etc... what rotor crankarms could I purchase so I can just take out my dura ace cranks and put in the rotor ones? I will probably order from the site so I can just have the p2m already on it.

My bike is a BB30 with either a press fit bracket or adapter. not sure which.

________________________________________________
odpaul7,

if you actually have a dura ace 7900, you can take a rotor 3d24 to replace it. No bottom bracket change needed.
charlot12 wrote:
odpaul7,

if you actually have a dura ace 7900, you can take a rotor 3d24 to replace it. No bottom bracket change needed.

Thank you!

________________________________________________
Last edited by: odpaul7: Dec 15, 15 4:01
Just installed the hollowgram unit i purchased off the black friday sale.
Working well.

Does the battery cover oring simply just snap over the groove between cover and battery housing and do enough to keep water out ?
That's right. Realistically the O ring is a preventative measure, the casing does a pretty good job on its own. But yes, installing the o ring is the last thing that goes on when you replace (or install) a battery.
Happy Holidays everyone. I just wanted to put it out there that we've opened up our Boxing Day Sale. If you missed the Black Friday Sale, this is your chance for redemption.
Just unwrapped a P2M for Xmas. Fast and easy swap with crank but it is taking me longer to get this STUPID FUCKING BATTERY ORING to stay on. What's the trick? Still not on. Thanks

Signed,

stupid

http://www.sfuelsgolonger.com
Specifically, what's the issue?

You put the cover on then install the o-ring, it just sits in the groove.
Nevermind, I watched the video on the website. I was doing it wrong, lol. I was trying to wrap it around the cover lip before putting it on and it kept sliding off. Now I have to work out the side to side slack on the cranks.

Thanks,

http://www.sfuelsgolonger.com
With my just installed hollowgram unit it was same thickness so no spacers or washers needed, hopefully same with yours.

Mine is working great, happy with it and the praxis rings.

alien wrote:
Nevermind, I watched the video on the website. I was doing it wrong, lol. I was trying to wrap it around the cover lip before putting it on and it kept sliding off. Now I have to work out the side to side slack on the cranks.

Thanks,
When I measure the P2M gossamer spindle against my Vision TRIMAX carbon crank spindle, the gossamer P2M spindle is about an 1/8" or 3mm shorter. I think I can "crank" it in though.

http://www.sfuelsgolonger.com
I just bought the type S for my road bike and had my shop install it. I have one on my tri bike as well. I noticed the road bike reads left\right around 43/57. Tri bike reads usually 49/51. I'm not expecting 50/50 all the time. However, is there something I can adjust? Calibrate? Seems off.
Do you have the same fit between the road bike and tri bike? If not, why do you think it's the P2M producing different/wrong power balance numbers, rather than something resulting from a different fit?
Out of curiousity what software are tou using ?
I use wko and i dont think it has left right analysis,

GAUG3 wrote:
I just bought the type S for my road bike and had my shop install it. I have one on my tri bike as well. I noticed the road bike reads left\right around 43/57. Tri bike reads usually 49/51. I'm not expecting 50/50 all the time. However, is there something I can adjust? Calibrate? Seems off.
Yeah. Fit is different. I doubt an inch or two would make my left leg that much weaker than right.
Garmin and Training Peaks.
You don't know if it's weaker or you're just pulling up harder with the other foot, or something else. The power balance in a P2M and Quarq is just based on when the power was applied in the crank rotation. It's not a true L/R measurement. It's interesting but not really actionable.

An inch or two can really skew the L/R data.
Hi Power2max,

It would be a good idea if you change the software in newer models to fix the issue whereby even the slightest movement of the chainset causes the Power2max to wake up.
I think on your website it says it will remain active for 2 minutes after detecting a wakeup event. This makes transporting my bike for a couple of hours quite impractical as it will drain the battery.

Why not count 5-10 full rotation before a wakeup for 2 minutes occurs? During the initial movement detection the software could stay in a low-power state where only the cadence is measured, if the PM detects constant tiny movements without full rotations, you know the bike is being transported.

Just a thought to improve this product.

Eoin
Has anyone experienced very long calibration times? Running classic p2m rotor 3d+ cranks with a Garmin edge 500. I let the bike sit for a long while (approx. oct-dec) and ever since it has been taking a long time to calibrate. I'm getting power and cadence during my rides, but the calibration at the start takes so long that I usually just skip it and ride.

Any thoughts on how to remedy would be appreciated.

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