Ask as many questions as you want :-).

Regarding the FSA rings. You're right - if your little ring has the cutouts around the bolt holes they are not compatible. They only work on specific FSA spiders in that case.

We get very positive feedback on Praxis Works rings, the shifting is very crisp (I use them myself and am very happy with them). Praxis recommends Shimano, Campagnolo, or KNC chains for best shifting. (see here: http://www.praxiscycles.com/...t/compact-road-sets/)

Cheers
Nicolas

---

---
power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team

Perfect... thank you so much for your advice. I'll check my chain ring tonight and put the order in...

---

Strava

Great - one parting thought - if you end up changing chain rings check how worn your chain is - using a worn chain on new rings isn't recommended.

Cheers
Nicolas

---

---
power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team

Great, thanks for the advice. I think I am about due for a new one anyway...

---

Strava

Yeah, just the inner chain ring, those FSA inner rings with the recess won't work. On my wife's 11 speed bike for a while I had an old 10 speed generic inner ring on there and that worked fine. Now it is a SRAM 10/11 inner ring. Works fine too.

---

---

Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

anyone using S type with praxis 50 / 34 rings and Shimano 11 speed FD - such as 5800/6800 etc

read the odd comment that the spacing of stock shimano rings is a little different and some people report problems for 50/34

anyone?

I have classic 50/34 with praxis rings with shimano 11 spd fd. New bike for me but have about 400 miles without issue. Shifts are smooth and quick.

I have a Merida Time Warp 4, my LBS took off the Vision Trimax crankset and fitted a Shimano 105 with Stages. I'm not happy with the battery usage on the Stages so might be getting it replaced. Any idea what BB the Trimax has and what option I'd need from you if I were to go down the P2M route?

Cheers

---

I ride:
Cervelo - P-Series/R3
GT - Sensor Carbon Expert

Supporters - Flo Cycling, Mount Bikes

Hi,

Quick question on SRAM Type S - am considering this for my Trek Boone (canti) which I use for road as well as cross. Would be using CX1 cranks which are same as Force22 with different graphics so presume no issues there.

Just wondered if the install involves loctite (as it does with Quarq spiders) or its a simple 3-bolt operation? My other option would be Rotor 24, I've seen an install video for that and it looked like no loctite involved. thx

Hey Nicolas,

My power meter needs a new battery. I could not find a CR2450N. All I could find was a CR2450(Energizer Brand). Is this compatible or do I need to further search for a CR2450N?

Thanks,
Daryle

I'm using an Energizer CR2450 with no problems at all, hope that helps

Yes it does. Thanks!

Out of curiosity, how long have you been using the current battery? Mine (the battery they send with it) crapped out at around 180 hours. I know they claim 400 hours... and I wasn't expecting 400, but less than 200. :/

I am running a P2M classic on a Cervelo P2 (2011). Yesterday I raced a local Oly and wanted to run some numbers out there for some help.

I weigh 185.
Bike on race morning is 22.1
Hed 60's Front and back with a disk cover
BTA water bottle with a flat kit bta just behind it.
Moderately aggressive position.

Coach said hold 90-95% of my FTP for the bike. that would = 238 - 250
I attributed my meager average to the turns at the race but there was no way i was holding 250 by my PM

My wattage for the 24 miles avg. 216 max 789

Speed average 24.4

I dont think that at 185 my speed can be 24.4 at an average of 216. Does this seem right? I know this unit auto calibrates but friends that race with other PM's that are much smaller than I am (165 and 153) both held wattage much higher than I did for the same speed. (254 and 247). Any thoughts or suggestions as I go in to Texas I dont want to over cook my already crappy running legs

already being answered by email. Thank you for the quick response

Ebay! also - 10-pack for $17. (free shipping) My Garmin said: 'Low Meter Battery' warning... so It's been about a year since installed usage of road + trainer time. Over 3200 miles. Hours = unknown.

Hi Nicolas. I have a Classic I bought from you last summer with the Rotor 3D already installed. It was a super easy install and has worked great. I just bought another one from a user here on ST that is a FSA Gossamer version without rings, same as the link below.

I havent received it yet but am trying to plan. I have a set of FSA Gossamer rings already. Can I install the rings without having to remove the crank arm? I just don't know if it the big ring will slip over the crank arm and the p2m piece.

Anything else to worry about? Will the chainring bolts from the stock FSA set work? Should I use loctite?

Thanks for any help.

http://www.power2max.com/...ossamer-power-meter/

---

------------------------
Loud pawls save lives

Hi all,

first of all my apologies for the long delay in answering. I was away in a training camp without internet (yipee!) and then sick (argh).

@Baydad: You can install the FSA Gosammer Classic or a Rotor 3D Type S straight in the bottom bracket.

@mattjevans: I am not entirely sure on that one. If the XX1 have the same axle length and interface you can use it. If the axle is longer the chain line would be off. Loctite on the three bolts is recommended, also on the lock ring on the Rotor 3D. If you order the Rotor 3D with cranks it comes installed.

@dyarab: If you have a Classic please make sure to use a Renata battery. The shape of other brands is slightly different and doesn't fit the holder of the Classic properly, risking false contacts and damage. On a Type S you can use an Energizer. Renata batteries are available through us or Amazon.

@RN86314: It's difficult to compare data, especially on flat courses. First one would need to know how data is recorded - maybe your data includes zeroes and theirs doesn't. Second race dynamics are very important. If you ride with other people draft legal you still get a big benefit. Your average may drop further relative to your normalized power if riding was uneven due to race dynamics. I usually do a manual zero on race morning before the swim and during the race every time I coast more than 2 seconds the unit rezeroes automatically. FWIW my fastest bike split was at IM Florida on really low watts, because of the course, wind conditions, and race dynamics. On other races I got much worse watts for speed.

@BionicMan: on a Classic you need to remove the crank arm to install the large chain ring. Please be careful with FSA rings - some of the small rings have little indents around the bolt holes. Those are not compatible, as they warp on the power meter. Unfortunately FSA chose a non-standard format for those rings.

All the best
Nicolas

---

---
power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team

Thanks, Nicolas. Do I need a special tool to remove the crank arm on the FSA? On your website I don't see a tool listed for that arm.

I guess I'll need to get different rings. My existing classic has the Praxis rings. Do you recommend any other at or below that price point? I'm afraid the savings of buying pre-owned are quickly going away in this case.

---

------------------------
Loud pawls save lives

You can keep the praxis inner, and get an FSA aero big ring.

---

---

Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Thanks for the response. Sorry, I was being confusing. The new (to me) unit I have coming doesn't have rings but has the Gossamer crank arms. I have an extra set of Gossamer rings that I thougt I could use for this new p2m but it seems that those rings won't work so I need something new.

The Praxis rings I mentioned are on my first p2m. Nothing I need to change with that one. Just need ring options for the new one and not looking to spend a lot. Also don't know if I need a special tool to remove the crank arm to install the big ring.

---

------------------------
Loud pawls save lives

I emailed support and got the answers so I thought I'd update for anyone else who might need to know in the future. The FSA crank doesn't require a special tool as it's held on with 6 bolts and has no lockring.

And most other standard rings should work.

---

------------------------
Loud pawls save lives

Thanks Nicolas. Already got the Energizer in there and cranking away. Got a couple of Renatas for back-up.

During a ride this morning my power readings drifted about 10-15 watts lower during the middle of an interval.

I was at around 255 watts during the interval riding steady at 90-91 cadence and then it started dropping to 235-245 with the same cadence(no gear changes), I thought i had maybe bonked or something but when i was trying to bring the power back up it seemed extremely difficult and my HR was rising 5-7 bpm. My cadence didnt change but the power was reading much lower.

After the interval i down shifted and found that the power readings were still lower based off of the gearing i was in and cadence i was at. Below is a screen shot of the drop. The sharp raise in watts at the last quarter of the interval was me just doing a short sprint to try to hit the wattage.

I did a manual zero prior to my ride and use a KK road machine.[/img]

---

https://www.strava.com/athletes/4391866

Anyone else get the emial, P2M lowered their prices?
Examples...Classic FSA Gossamer w/cranks $599,
Type S without cranks $899.

I did. Not too happy given that I *just* ordered one last Friday and haven't even received it let alone installed it. I'm feeling like returning it now...