Carl, I need to replace a notched headset in a 2011 Speed Concept 9-series. I can find references to a 14.2MM X 25MM X 6.5MM "Mini ACB" bearing, but this is always described as the upper bearing for a SC. I can't find any info about a lower bearing, other than a reference to there being one in the Service Manual for the bike. Can you give any insight please?

Thanks

See past Official Speed Concept Owners Thread post here: SC Lower Bearing

It is a 1" Cane Creek with a 45° outer race chamfer. They are typically advertised like this FSA

Hi Carl, used my bike on anger outside last week, went to use this morning but headset is loose, what's best way to tighten this please. It was very rough roads to be fair! But great ride love it!

for both generations of the bike you would loosen the pinch band bolt at the rear of the stem , then set the bearing preload. Old bike its a 6mm hex at 2nm max ...new bike its an 8mm at same max torque but you also lock that in with a 5mm hex from the bottom of the fork crown.

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Carl Matson

Thanks

Now an idea it may have been tried already, would a carbon bottle cage super glued onto the stem cover work? Iv seen it bolted but thinking super glue.

Wouldn't be able to recommend it for a number of reasons...not the least of which is that the stem covers aren't designed with waterbottle loads in mind. Betting you'd crack it in pretty short order.

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Carl Matson

Thought that might be case :(

Hi Carl. Trying to remove my (original) 9 series fork to get a better chance of extracting broken bolt. The curve of the curve head tube seems to stop it sliding out. What do I need to do? Thanks

The lower bearing needs to come out with the fork...if it stays in the lower headtube cup the internal steerer won't clear.

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Carl Matson

Gotcha. Do they come out fairly easily like most headsets or do they put up a fight like bb90 bearings?

Headset bearings are drop-in...not press-in...should be fine. They often stay on the fork during disassembly anyway...the only thing which might hold them in place is the grease in the cups.

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Carl Matson

Great, should be up to the task. Thanks, super speedy & helpful as eve.

Just ordered new upper and lower headset bearings for my 2012 Speed Concept 9. Couple questions -

First, the bike has seen less than a year of use, but the bearings were completely trashed (corroded, creaking, allowed enough play for the fork to contact the headtube on the frame and scratch it up - yikes). Are the headset bearings considered an yearly maintenance part, or was it just too much sweat from hours on the stationary trainer over the winter?

Second, I'm seeing in the manual to torque the pre-load nut to 2.5nm, but the stem adapter itself says max torque 5.2nm. Which should I go by?

Thanks!

Ryan

Certainly more risk of dripping corrosive stuff into your headset in a trainer situation than on the road, so that probably played a part. A front end loose enough for the fork to contact the headtube isn't normal, though...and I'm not sure a corroded but otherwise intact set of bearings would cause it. Certainly it would be something you'd notice quickly out on the road, so I'm guessing things were fine before you went indoors for the winter and something loosened up during your trainer sessions?

The torque maximums you note are for two separate parts...the preload nut is set to 2.5Nm first, then you tighten the stem clamp bolt to 5.2Nm.

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Carl Matson

I think you're right - just recently got it back out on the road, so I'm sure I just sweat too much.

Thanks for the clarification on the torque specs - appreciate the quick reply! Love this bike, looking forward to having a creak-free headset again!

Carl - one more question. The pre-load nut (called the steering axle nut in the manual) is incredibly tight, even with the pinch bolt completely removed. I cannot even turn it by itself (not threaded onto the fork axle) at 2.5nm...turning it with an allen wrench is difficult at best, and it clicks as it turns. Is my stem attachment defective? Your advice is greatly appreciated.

Can't really tell what's happening without being there. If you're not comfortable with what's going on I suggest bringing it to your Trek dealer.

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Carl Matson

So I am new to the forum and came here as I am the proud owner of a speedconcept 7.5.

Wondering if anyone else has been aggravated by this mono extension aero bar setup as I have been?

Its like buying an apple product and everything is proprietary.

I have figured out that it does have the advantage of just being able to tape my garmin watch by the bands and it doesn't need a fancy mounting bracket.

One thing that has been plaguing me. Getting a bottle in the aero bar area. Its been a real hassle.
Anyone have a cheap and easy life hack on this?

Thanks ahead of time!

John

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http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Bontrager sells an awesome Bottle mount/computer combo mount that is designed to go in-between the bars.

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- Jake
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Jake!

Youre a stud with that bike !

I keep wishing I bought the 9 but the budget never allows for the fun things we want.

What did that sucker run you?
If its like 100$ its a little annoying cause really all we would need is a washer and some longer allen screws and a standard cage will fly.

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http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Haha the stud is Matt Russell, pro triathlete, who just took 3rd at Wildflower Triathlon.

I'm in the process of ordering most likely a 7 series Speed Concept right now! Can't wait!

The bottle holder is $90, agree you could probably make your own just as easily with longer allen screws and washer...

http://store.trekbikes.com/...water+bottle+cage.do

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- Jake
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Shows what I know!

Yeah I mean 3c worth of tape and I have my garmin mounted (debating getting me some velcro for a more semi perm solution)

I gotta get the measurements down so I don't mess up the sockets.

I havent even tried to see if they would fit yet... it might.

Ill have to check when I get home from the pool.

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http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Carl - first, big thank you for your responsiveness in this forum. It's greatly appreciated, and excellent customer service.

In follow up to what I was describing yesterday, it took far greater than 2.5nm to budge the steering axle nut without it being threaded onto the steering axle at all (just holding the riser in my hand).

My good friend WD40 seems to have solved the issue, as now I can turn it with a wrench set at 2.5nm without the wrench breaking @ torque.

That being said, I'm assuming by the extremely light torque spec on this bolt that the headset bearing pre-load is jussssssst at contact, and not much more...that's really what I'm trying to confirm. Assuming I didn't use a torque wrench at all, once the bearing surfaces make contact, we're talking less than 1/16th of a turn on the wrench to set the load, give or take, right?

Thanks for the help!

I'm afraid I'm still a little confused...when you say it's not threaded onto the internal steerer, that sounds like you have the stem and the preload nut off the bike, together, as a unit, and are experiencing the difficulty turning the preload nut. How did you get the preload nut off the bike if you couldn't turn it?

Yes, bearing preload doesn't require much in the way of torque...overdoing it will severely reduce bearing life.

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Carl Matson

Right - the stem is off the bike at this point. I was able to turn it, but it took a considerable amount of force, probably due to all the corrosion and build-up from the failed bearings. Just guestimating it took 15-20 ft/lbs to turn it before I soaked it with WD-40, then turned it 15-20 times to work it loose.

Now I can turn it under 2.5 nm without the wrench breaking. It doesn't turn 'freely' (I can't turn it in the stem with my fingers, for instance), but it turns relatively smoothly and without a ton of force.

Perhaps the pinch bolt was tightened too much at one point? (again, at this point the pinch bolt is completely removed, but perhaps it warped the clamping surface?)