Medium, original SC9

w306643 for black
w315982 for white

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,

Apologies if you've answered this previously. I searched with no success.

What is included in the aero package option within the project one customization of the SC 7 series?

Is my Quarq Elsa compatible with the SC?

Scott

it's the non-UCI setup...fork, basebar, and speedfin.

quarq's compatibility page is here. the 2014 SC is BB90, so it appears the Elsa R will fit as long as you have the GXP version.

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Carl Matson

Just want to publicly thank Carl for sorting me out with SC handlebar set up... Efficiency at its best.. Thanks again Carl.

You're very welcome. I do what I can.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl. I removed the front fork of my 2011 speed concept 9.0 and had a great deal of difficulty pulling the fork from the frame. The long rod just wouldn't pull loose without having to force the fork over a bulge in the front tube. Oops there goes the paint. As I did a bearing fell and I now don't know the correct location for it-- top or bottom of assembly? I've looked for a parts diagram for the assembly but can't find one. I do know that the rod extending upward from the fork is not going to just slide up into the tube. What's the best way to slide this back into place and where can I find a diagram or photos to show me how the parts are assembled?

Chris_Hanson and SummitAK nailed it in the other thread. Here's the service manual:

http://www.trekbikes.com/...t_Service_Manual.pdf

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Carl Matson

Carl, thanks for the always quick response. I used the 2011 service manual. It seemed simple enough, but the fork just would not slide out with "light pressure." The 2011 service manual does not show the position of the bearings. The updated service manual does but says that this is an area that has been changed from the 2011 model. I'm now not sure if I have both bearings nor their correct position. Can you describe the correct position of the top bearing? Can you point me toward a diagram that illustrates this?

the key is the lower bearing needs to come out at the same time as the fork...like the other two guys were telling you. same thing in reverse, when you put it back together, the lower bearing has to be installed on the fork before the fork slides into the frame. that part is detailed in the service manual.

here's a screenshot of the assembly. there are angled surfaces (45 degree chamfers) on the bearings, inside the headtube, and on the fork and on the preload nut which all need to mate up correctly. in other words, 45deg on 45deg. you'll notice that the upper and lower bearings only have the 45deg chamfers in certain places...in other words, the outside (and inside) of the bearing doesn't have 45deg chamfers top and bottom...they're only on one side. mate up the 45's. the zoomed-in detail of the lower bearing shows the outer 45deg chamfer (green) facing up, where it meets the same shape inside the headtube. there's a 45deg chamfer on the inside of the bearing which mates up to a 45deg surface on the fork (blue). upper bearing works similarly...only the outer 45deg is facing down into the frame and the inner 45 is facing up to mate with the preload nut.

if this doesn't make sense to you, or you're not comfortable with it, bring it to your Trek dealer.

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Carl Matson

Sweet bike!

Can anyone advise me if a 25mm tubular would fit into the old speed concept 9.5?

Many thanks. Do you ever rest? Trek is lucky to have you.

I managed to get a wheelset with FMB Paris-Roubaix tubies (which measure something like 27mm IRL) into my old 7-series (same frame geometry and tube shapes in the rear triangle)...mind you, it was a very tight fit and if that gravel grinder I was doing hadn't been bone dry I wouldn't have tried it. I also had to change my front brake from SRAM to Shimano due to clearance issues... but that was related to brake caliper design and that wouldn't apply to a 9-series. Long way to say: there's a good chance it'll work...but no guarantees. Some 23c and 25c tires have pretty tall profiles which has interfered with the draftbox for some riders as well, so you have that to consider if you run that accessory.

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Carl Matson

Carl,

I during the offseason, I would like to make two changes to my 2014 SC 7. Add power for sure and possibly DI2 components.

Keeping in mind that I have the Bontrager bike computer with the integrated sensors, what power meter would you suggest? What DI2 components would you suggest?

Thank you

I would suggest you get the powermeter and Di2 hardware that suit your needs and your budget. I have no idea what combination makes the most sense for you...quarq and ultegra Di2, powertap and DA Di2, who knows. Di2 doesn't care what powermeter you run, and vice versa...they don't really interface with each other electronically. Likewise, Di2 doesn't interface with your computer...but the powermeter might, depending on what computer you have and what powermeter you buy and what "language" each one speaks (e.g. ANT+).

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Carl Matson

I've noticed the Speed Fin on the 2014 SC rubs against my rear tire when I am sprinting; climbing out of the saddle; and during low cadence, high power work

This occurs with both the Bontrager Aeolus 7s and my Zipp Firecrest 404s. Both wheels flex slightly, which is enough to rub the Speed Fin on the drivetrain side. The Speed Fin appears misaligned. There is about 1mm clearance on the drivetrain side, but plenty of clearance on the non-drivetrain side.

I have tried adjusting the Speed Fin, but its locked in place by 3 bolts and there is no wiggle room. Bending it seems like a bad idea.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Any suggestions?

DW

Wondering if it's not the wheel that is off center? Just a thought.

Seems like a long shot, but if you'll humor me for a quick test: try putting your rear wheel in backwards and check those gaps again...if they switch sides, your rims may not be centered on the hubs.

If that doesn't happen, this would be a good time to take it to your Trek dealer and see if they have another 2014SC with a speedfin in stock...and try swapping speedfins and check the gaps...to see if the problem goes away (speedfin problem) or stays the same (possible brake or frame problem).

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Carl Matson

My Speed Fin is misaligned but not by as much that the rear tire would rub against it. The clearance remains about 2 mm on the non-drivetrain side with GP 4000 S II 25 mm on Bontrager Aeolus 9.

I have and use SRM and Pioneer PMs. SRM is bullet proof but older models need periodic battery replacement (3 week SRM replacement). Latest iteration has USB port - rechargeable. Pioneer measures power at both crank arms and independently; the Pioneer computer page display will show pedal stroke vectoring for real-time efficiency measurements. However, Pioneer website for data analysis is complex. Both are Ant+; my setup was SRM/Shimano 7900 - Garmin 510 using K-Edge TT mount. BTW - Ebay has many PMs listed most for 1/3 of the retail cost. I use both with Di2 group sets w/ no problem.

Thanks I'll try reversing the wheel. It happens w 2/different wheels so unlikely but worth a try

Thanks. Just ordered it through my local Trek dealer. I realize you don't set the prices but $49 is a bit steep for a little piece of black plastic.

Hi Carl,
I'm having issues with my rear brake pad on the drive side rubbing on my zipp 808s due to the brake caliper not returning fully when releasing the brake lever. Any handy tips for sorting this out please?
Cheers
Phil

Handy tip: imagine what your LBS might do if you took it in. My guess is they might pull the rear brake cover off and see what's going on while they pull and release the brake lever. Might notice something when they do that. Might not. Maybe you've got your housing kinked somewhere. Maybe the cable is dirty/corroded where you can't see it (or maybe where you can see it). Any number of things could be going on but it's hard to diagnose over the web.

Here's an easy one (easy to fix) that might not be obvious at first glance...if you're on a pre-2014 9-series or 7-series the rear brake nut can get installed upside down and when that happens it'll catch on the brake booster. Here's a pic of an upside-down brake nut. That flange you see facing up should be facing down (hidden) in the wedge.

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Carl Matson