This is a good approach:

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David Byer
Cervélo

Yes, that's the smarter way to set it up.

And thanks, David, for the quick response. I'm glad I asked!

Torque for seat height clamp on the P5? Does anyone know this value? This is the two screws bracket that holds the seat post to a certain height?

Also, not as critical but how about the torque for the two screws under the saddle to adjust the forward and back of the seat position? This is the new rail system that replaced the two holes on the previous seat posts on the P2 - P4. Also the saddle single screw for keeping saddle from sliding on it's rail and tilt?

Also, where are all of the torque values documented?

I have also noticed that the saddle height bracket tends to scrape the paint on the seat post. Any tips for stopping this from happening?

Hi Bart,

Recommended torque for all for all unlabeled M5 bolts is 5 N*m.
I think you're right - we might have missed the full documentation of all these new bolts' torque specs!

The saddle clamp bolt might be a different torque. I'll ask David to look into that as I'm out of the office at the moment.

To avoid scratching the paint on the seat post, it could be helpful to break the edges of the aluminum clamp. Thanks for bringing this up - we should look into the possibilities of making a running change to that part.

Cheers,

Damon

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

So here is my P5 after the initial setup. New saddle though early next week.

Appreciate the reply. BTW, the scratch on the seat post is really not a big issue to me. You guys have hit a home run with the P5 on all levels IMO. Plan to write more of my initial impressions but weather is good today and changing tomorrow so want to get some time in on the bike.

another question on the bars.....

if using something like zipp width adjusters(name escapes me currently), do you think it would be a problem to use risers to attach those to bars and then use more risers to attach rests to extenders? I guess you would call it stepped risers? Would there be any issue with this?

for instance, 12.5mm riser to zipp extender, move 30mm over on extender and add another 4/8/12.5 riser to put armrests on? or any combination of that? This would facilitate one cutting of fork(min steer tube height) and adjusting drop through combination of risers(if needed) I may want to increase drop and need to make narrower anyway.

Thanks

Sorry for the slow reply. I am working on getting the updated Owner's Manual on the website. Note; these torque values are in the standard Owner's Manual.



6 - 7 nm.


12nm. It is also a good idea to use a little assembly compound to keep it perfectly in place with no squeaks or creaks.

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David Byer
Cervélo

New Owner's Manual is up. Cervélo specific torque values are on page 24.

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David Byer
Cervélo

If damon is unavailable, maybe you could answer my question 3 posts up

We would not recommend using risers on top of the pad wing extenders. The pad wing extensions are designed for armrest pads and are tested using only armrest pads.
Additionally, they have a 25mm bolt spacing so it may not even be possible to put risers on them.

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Ben Waite | Zipp Senior Design Engineer | The Power of Bicycles: Please contribute to World Bicycle Relief | Zipp | SRAM | Quarq |

zipp risers are 25mm bolt spacing, that is where I got them.

what would be the difference in putting risers under or on top of them? bending moment would be the same?

so really, what is the difference between on top or underneath you wings?

Yeah, I have to defer to the Zipp folks on that one. In theory, it works. But I have never seen a bar set up like this and I wouldn't want to be the one to find out the hard way that it doesn't work in practice. It is better to use the Audro spacers. Did you cut the fork short already?

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David Byer
Cervélo

not delivered yet.......

want to be able to adjust position if i deem one more w/m^2 friendly than another. ie if going lower faster, then i need to go lower, conversely...higher. of course this is hard to check if one is cabled up, ie not possible unless risers are used to adjust height. I also want basebar as low as it can go. I really hate having a high base bar.

how much hydraulic brake cable can one hide in the frame/bars to test bike without shifting ability?

shop friend says he possibly have a custom bridge made so I could put risers above/below as needed with appropriate width mounting on top. I dont know if that would pass bike inspection(if it exists) at master nats. etc.

i guess i need to know if zipp wings can be mounted on top of risers or if they are just direct to bars.

guess best route is another set of bars to test and then do rest. unfortunately the dealer i am using is 3 hours away so I would have to learn hydraulic brake installation.

I think directly to the bars is the way to go with the width extenders. As for how much Hydraulic cable; however much you can cram in there! That is the beauty of the Hyrdraulic brake lines... you can wrap'em around a bunch of times and it doesn't affect the performance at all. Just try not to pinch the line any where but the Magura housing is pretty tough so that would be hard to do.

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David Byer
Cervélo

teh risers are definitely meant to at least go under the wing extensions, at least everywhere I read a prodect description of them. so , under i dont see a problem. i also was not seeing a problem with 4mm above, but maybe not needed

can one attach the low bars without fully putting on the cover for temporary testing?

Sure. Keep the cover off and run standard round steerer spacers. You use a standard stem cap to pre-load the head set. If you don't want to bond in the star-nut sleeve, you can also just run an expander to try it out. The cover thing is just to keep everything neatly tucked inside. Where is bolts in also offers the attachment for the High-V. Pretty neat.

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David Byer
Cervélo

"The Zipp Vuka Aero Pad Wing Extension kit is used to provide additional adjustability, allowing you to select multiple ways to fit and find your most comfortable position and precise aerodynamic profile.

Install the Zipp Vuka Pad Wing Extension between the armrest pylon (or the riser if present) and the carbon armset using the black M5 button head screws embedded in the foam. Note the wing extension may be turned over to sweep forwards or backwards and rotated 180 degrees inwards or outwards to provide a total of 36 different positions."

From one of the websites selling these. Does this mean only risers below wings? Or are you saying no risers what so ever?

Was going to try and use the wings on my current set up, only to find that cant get extensions wide enough to fit them in between(narrow pad spacing). Trying to figure out a bottle location

Hi Jeff,

Sorry for slow reply - just got home from Europe.

David has explained the riser+extender situation well. Basically we have not tested them in combination. So there is really no official answer. I suppose if pushed, one of us would have to say "no".

At the larger height and width increments you're proposing, I like your idea of a simple custom piece, as I imagine it could be designed to bridge and tie left and right sides together structurally.

Enjoy your configuring,

Damon

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

trying the "no" currently on existing bike to get bottle in.

the wings come with screws long enough to use teh 4 or 8mm risers. one has 8mm under, one has 8mm on top, as wings have to overlap in middle of current config.

Check the custom paint!

More pics on our facebook page (see tag)

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http://www.austintricyclist.com
Facebook http://www.facebook.com/austintricyclist
Twitter: http://twitter.com/#!/ATCTriShop

that hurts my eyes and makes me think of my childhood in the 70s :)

I totally dig where they were going with the front end, but you lost me at the border.

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Hi Damon, Everyone,
I'm close to ordering a P5-3. I have 3 questions please:

1. I will be using an FSA Gossamer (SRM) crankset. Exactly what kind of BB adapter kit to I need to order please?

2. I wil be ordering the P5-3 with Magura hydraulic brakes (I think this is an extra £500 UKP). Do the brake levers and hydraulic pipes come with this, or just the calipers?

3. Will the Magura brake levers fit OK onto the Zipp Vuka Bull carbon base bar? I am aware Di2 base bar shifters don't fit on Magura brake levers.

Thank you.

Hi Johnny,

Thanks for buying a Cervelo. I'm sure you'll like it!

1. I've not installed a Gossamer in a BBright frame yet, but based on SRM's and FSA's descriptions you probably want FSA's "BB-PF79/Di2" bottom bracket.
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/.../508/BBRIGHT-ADAPTER


In FSA's part number, BB stands for bottom bracket, PF stands for Press Fit, 79 refers to the width of the BBright frame's bottom bracket shell, and Di2 refers to the plastic sleeve between the bearings, which is small enough to leave space for electric wires outside.

I don't know of any other bottom bracket that would work with your chosen crank.

2. The Magura RT brakes include levers and hydraulic lines as well, fully filled with hydraulic fluid, 100% leak tested and ready to install. (Tip: If you leave a little extra length on the hydraulic line during assembly, you can easily cut off the part with air in it, and re-connect the line to the caliper without having to bleed the system.)

3. According to the Magura RT manual (on page 15), the lever fits in any handlebar with inside diameter between 19.55 and 20.5 mm.
https://www.magura.com/...-tt-1/downloads.html

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)