David,
I saw in an earlier post that there is a new "P6 aero upgrade kit". I have already purchased an aero bar that I really like but was wondering if there was a way to just purchase the fork, brake cover, and beard? Basically allowing me to keep my current aerobar settup. Possibly save me a little money in the mean time.

Thanks!

I am adding shift buttons at the brake levers to my Di2 build on my P4 (I don't want to use the Di2 tt shift/brake levers-ST 7971). Is it possible to use either the Di2 climbing or sprint buttons? Or, if using the Cateye buttons are there 4 wire male connectors available to connect to the tt wire harness?

jsamples,

You can order the fork on it's own from a Cervélo retailer. There might not be immediate stock on those as many of the extras were used to create these kits. It is also important to know that the beard works with the bar and can't be mounted with out it. So, the result of using the P5-Six fork along with a different aero bar could be kind of funny looking.

---

---

David Byer
Cervélo

One day left of the month where my bike was listed as "shippable." Hopefully get a shipping confirmation today or tomorrow. I guess the shop has a call in to the rep and is waiting for a call back. With any luck, only a couple more weeks of waiting! Any word on how quick the factory has been getting these shipped out?

Shane

Hi Ludlaw,
I used the SW7970 climbing buttons including the wire harness that has the male plug at the end.
I just stripped off the casing which ended up in the basic connector with two springs (shown in the pic).
Then I just got the 2 rubber buttons with its plastic ring from an old Cateye.
Glued the two rings together & mounted them over the two springs.
So I did not alter anything electrical from the SW7970, just stripped & put smaller buttons over them.
Will post pics when finished.

From the photos I've seen of the SW7970 climbing buttons it looks like the connector is female (same as the tt cable). http://www.competitivecyclist.com/...ifter-8041.36.1.html Or did you connect with another piece of cable with the male/male ends?
Am I incorrect on that?
Was the need to cannibalize the 7970 because you wanted to attach it to the Magura brake?

I am a bit uncertain on some of the specifics of building up my P5-6 frameset with Di2. I hope you can help me. I will be using the e-tube Di2 stuff. Specific questions:

1) Front junction box- I will be using the R671 two button bar end shifters but am unclear as to which EW67A wiring harness to use? -E vs I
Do I need additional junction boxes for the front (JC41?)

2) Which battery harness do I want? I am assuming the SM-BMR1 Internal mount? I Am assuming the SM-BTR1-67 battery is the correct one as it seems to be the only option.

3)I am assuming that the internal JC41 junction box is what I want in the rear?

4) Can I make the 9070RD & FD work with a 10 speed system? Or can I only use the 6770 FD/RDS if I want to use my current 10 speed wheels?

5) How can I put shifter buttons on the levers for the hydraulic brakes? Can I use the Climbing buttons?

Thanks for all of your help
Best
Seth

I couldn't find the connectors so I simply spliced the wires to add the Cateye buttons on my Magura breaks. Works awesome. If I were to do it again, I'd prolly go to an auto parts store or electronics store to by some tiny 3 wire connectors to splice into the wires. I'll do that if I ever need to take the bars off. You can read what I did step-by-step here: http://www.endurancenation.us/...5-to-make-it-better/

I've given up waiting for my P5-6 and ordered a P5-3 as they are in stock here in the UK and I need something to ride for the new season. I am hoping to get a P5-6 upgrade kit, or at the very least an Aduro aerobar. I have not heard anything on UK availability yet (I have a pending query with my LBS) so I am likely going to have to run a different bar for the start of the season.

Can someone tell me the stack height required for the Aduro? I'm going to need to put a 1cm spacer under it when I get it and use the high V.

Any info on how I can get my hands on an Aduro here in the UK would also be appreciated.

That is terrific...thanks fro the link.


I am wondering, is it worth waiting for the new Di2 11 speed, or does the hassle with wheels make it not really worth it?


I'd love to see pictures with your whole bike. I assume you love the Di2 on this bike. Thank you so much for sharing.

---

David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

Great article and thanks for sharing.

Sounds to me that it would be best to first run the wires for the Cat Eye buttons before the brake cable?

My bike was built and I had ridden it for a month or so before I added the shifter buttons. I certainly would have been easier to to it all at once, but to be honest it didn't take me all that long start to finish anyways. I'll try to tak a few more photos when I get home tonight. I do love the bike and once you go Di2, it would be really hard to go back to mechanicals.

If I were to do it again, I would still go with the old Di2 (even if they were both available today at exactly the same price). I don't think you can hack the new stuff the way I did mine (but maybe somebody smarter than me on Shimano electronics can confirm this). I also have several bikes and my wife has several bikes (a new P3 is her primary bike) and we have a whole bunch of different wheelsets and a whole bunch of different cassette options. The thought of needing to worry about compatibility all the time would just be too annoying for me relative to the minor weight savings and the few other things that are just better with the new system. I'll eventually have to bite the bullet and swap everything over, but that'll probably be 3+ yrs from now for me once the whole industry has moved that direction.

Hey Rob,

I believe that your distributor should have the Aero upgrades soon. If you have a request in with your local Cervélo retailer, that is the best way to get the bar.

Are you looking for the required amount of fork steerer to run a 3T Aduro with 1cm spacer so that you can cut your fork to the right length? Not completely clear on the question.

---

David Byer
Cervélo

Hi David,
I apologize if this question has been asked before. I was fitted on my new P5 today and was asking about the single water bottle boss at the base of the frame. Are there any current accessories out there for this? Is it intended to support a bottle similar to the P4?
I know it was only a fit, but the bike felt absolutely amazing; I felt comfortable and powerful. I can't wait to get it on the road.
Thanks,
Rick

If I measure from the 'base' of the Aduro where it would touch the frame with no spacers to the aero bar pad...in the Low configuration, the distance is about 6.5 cm. Does that make sense? I don't know what the HighV would be. Is that what you are looking for?

---

Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Hi David,

You are right, I'm looking for info on how much fork steerer I should leave to ensure I do not cut it too low for the Aduro.

Good to hear that the upgrade pack should not be too long.

Rob

Ah, stem stack height. The Aduro stem clamp is 40mm long. Add any spacers you're planning.

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

What he said ^

The simple equation is head tube + 40mm + Spacer = Fork steerer length. I like to mark it there and just cut on the short side of the line. That way you come up a MM or so short and that allows the top cap to push on the top of the steerer tube and pre-load the head set bearing nicely. Some people throw a -2mm in that equation and try to cut right down the centre of the line.

---

---

David Byer
Cervélo

I just picked up my P5 three (and the upgrade) and I just love this bike. I just loved the bike; it felt comfortable and fast during my Retul/CT dynamic fit. Childcare issues prevent me from getting out today, but I'll be out in the 20 degree NY weather tomorrow.
Question: I put my Zipp 1080's on the bike (it looks amazing), but I'm not sure how to adjust the calipers. I thought there was a way to adjust the calipers without a tool, if yes, how? Also, when I put the wheels Mavic training wheels back on the rear brake seems to rub against the wheel. Any help advice on brake adjustment would be very much appreciated.
BTW, I've heard quite a few people complaining about the stock wheels, but I think they are a great set of training wheels

Hi trithink,

Glad you like your Cervelo!

To adjust the Magura RT brakes for rim width:
1. Coarse adjustment = washers at brake shoes
2. Fine adjustment = 2.5mm allen key at front of brake lever

For reference, you can always google "magura rt instructions" and have a look at the workshop manual PDF. Page 8 and 9 are relevant for your question.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thank you.
[http://trithink.shutterfly.com/pictures/16]

I'm sure that this has been addressed previously, but is there any reason why the front aero break cover is not a single piece? Also, are there any suppliers in the aftermarket who are developing a one piece cover?

Beautiful bike. And your basement is waay cleaner than mine. ;-)

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi J,


The left and right sides of the cover attach separately to the left and right arms of the brake, so the covers move with the arms during braking.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks; I love it and I haven't even ridden it outside yet (BTW, don't be too impressed, I moved the boxes of junk out of the way so they didn't take away from the bike).