Thanks Damon,

I was mildly frustrated today as my crank arm came off 30km into our group 45km TT, I was going about 50kph on a downhill and the non drive side arm came off. I had to think fast and swung my leg wide in order for it not to hit the frame. Luckily I didn't go down and the arm didn't touch the frame.

Without elaborating I will say that this WASN'T a Cervelo related issue, and a solution has been found (lock tight, torque wrench and tightening the lock ring on lightning cranks)

In terms of the brakes/rear wheel, I think this is an issue of filing the drop outs and like you said proper filling of the brakes, my bike was the first P5 into the LBS so when they cut the rear line to re-install the brake it may have been over filled, I will pass on the info to my LBS. I think we will also try to file the drop-outs in .5mm increments. As the brake rubs on the drive side I am assuming that we can start by filing .5mm off the non drive side?

I think the combo of the above will fix this, it appears to be more of a side to side issue than a brake issue (plenty of room on the non drive side)

In terms of the cut out, it is about 3-4mm of space, this is more than my old P3 SL or other cervelos. but as you say it is under 6mm so I won't concern myself with it.

In terms of the bar, thanks "campled" for the info, I read that you may need to replace the rear bolts of the low position with shorter ones. Also Damon how hard can I torque the extension nuts? I will try the plumbers nylon tape as well.

Thanks Damon and Campled for your replies,

Cheers,
Maurice

Hi Maurice,

Wow, good thinking with the Lightning crank issue! Glad you were able to handle it well. That does sound frustrating!

Understandable with yours being the first P5 in the shop. Bleeding is so easy I over-thought it myself during training at Magura! When I finally understood it, I was embarrassed how complicated I had made it seem in my mind. ;-)

For your wheel alignment, filing seems to be the answer. I don't usually measure, I just file ten strokes then check with the wheel. Repeat as necessary. And yes, file on the side where the rim is too close.

Correct, the tire gap can be up to 6mm, so you're good.

The extension nuts can be made quite tight. We tested but I don't remember the torque at which the nut yields; but remember you have spare nuts. I mean the bar comes with spare nuts. ;-) Anyway who has a torque wrench that would fit a large hex nut like that... Long wrench, pull hard. ;-)

Enjoy,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

I have successfully installed the x-strike on the back of my delta single bottle holder just as Shawn has. It works very well. I had to get longer screws from ACE hardware to make it work. Didn't have any loosening issues, although I did put a little blue lock-tight on it. \ Shawn, I wonder if you have non-metric screws as the metric size (I think it was 4 or 5mm) fits perfectly with no toggle; I am not sure I really needed the lock-tight, but I figured it won't hurt. I have now ridden a few 50+ miles rides as well as a aquabike with 56mile bike today with no issues what so ever. Very good way to carry the CO2. The CO2's are hidden from the wind by my backside. I rode some fast sections on chip seal at 30mph + and no bottle ejections. So while X-lab hasn't tested these together, they seem to work very well.

Hi,

I picked up my P5 Three frame yesterday from my LBS as I have decided to build it up myself. I already own an R3 and an S5 both of which I built up myself - the R3 I have recently upgraded to Ultegra Di2 and the new seatpost battery so I am reasonably confident of my DIY skills.

I started the P5 build today and have hit two snags for which I cannot find answers in the manuals or one line anywhere.

The first relates to the TRP (not Magura) rear brake I have been supplied. It looks like there should be a spacer between the brake and the frame as at the moment the thread is exposed - see picture. It also looks like when I fit the 'noodle' for the cable the aero brake cover won't fit over the brake itself. Does anyone have this brake installed - is there a spacer required ? Any photo's or comments regarding the rear brake would be gratefully erecived.



My second problem is the cover for the 'cable bucket' on the top tube. I think the cover comes in two parts and I appear to have two of the same half - again see attached picture. Can anyone confirm that I need another 'half' to complete the cover ?



Thanks in advance

I have still had no issues and have put a ton of miles on the bike. I put Blue thread lock on just about every bolt due to most of the roads we ride on in Texas. The bolt I used was a M4-.7 x 16mm. Enjoy your ride!!!

Shawn

Glad to hear both you and Shawn are enjoying the X-Strike on the Delta Sonic! Thanks for being our testers :)

---

Candice Turner
CEO
XLAB - Aerodynamic Triathlon Accessories
Dawn to Dusk - Off-road Specific Storage Accessories
http://www.XLAB-USA.com http://www.dawntodusk.bike

Graham,

You might be best to email me directly and let me know which shop is closest to you. There were a very few of those brakes that went out with the wrong mounting bolt hardware. I will make sure you get the correct cable bucket too.

Thanks,

---

David Byer
Cervélo

That is amazing! I've been waiting for something like this for a while. Are you going to offer it for sale or post how it was made? I have a 58 P5 just in case! I'm just shock that no one is offering a solution like this, the P5 is such a clean bike, I just hate to hang stuff from the back seat in order to carry my toolkit.

Anyone else have a magura brake that sticks until it pops/snaps and then activates? If so, how do you fix that? ie start pulling lever, brake does not move, then with a somewhat forceful snap, the pads move way over to where they would have been had they been moving the whole time(onto the rim at that point)

Do the brakes relax normally when you release the lever or are they somewhat stuck? Me and my friend's were a little stuck when we released the lever. Turns out two spacers between the rear Magura brake and the frame is just enough to make the brake rub the BB cover. I pulled out a spacer, which solved the problem.

As per my post above, make sure the BB cover is not rubbing the brake. It could be causing an illusion of tight brakes if the brake arms don't spring back like they should (it may not be a problem here, but it's worth checking out).



I also have about ~5mm of gap between frame and rear wheel with my Jet Disc and 23mm tire. This seems to be the absolute closest it can get because:

1) The dropout screws are all the way in (taking them out completely might get the gap down, though).
2) The rear brake shoes are in towards the BB as far as they will go and are only just hitting the brake track on the Jet Disc - 1mm less gap would cause the brake pads to hit the carbon instead of the aluminum brake track.

As Damon has pointed out, up to 6mm is fine aerodynamically, so it seems to be OK. I'm not sure how people wanting to run 20mm on their rear wheel will feel like. A good change to the frame could perhaps be to be able to mount the rear wheel at least 2-3mm closer to the frame (and make sure the rear brake would also allow this placement).

no cover attached when this happens. brakes release fine, front just does not activate normally, it jumps once past the "snapping point" for lack of a better term. brakes sticks until enough pressure is applied than it jumps to grab the wheel

this is a front brake only problem

side note/question, anybody here rotate their magura levers 90deg and field test for aeroness?? :) they seem like they are failt easy to depress so it should be an ok spot, provided it is faster.

also, how about a hydraulic splitter to mount an additional rear brake lever on shifter for those so inclined. that is not me, but as i was riding with my chain falling apart, these ideas pop into my head. hydraulic shifting?? i am really digressing here.

David,
I've had a message from the mechanic building my bike that he is having problems routing the rear hydraulic brake cable. He says it seems to be catching on something when he tries to thread it down the top tube cable entry point. Is this a known issue please?
Thank you,
John

-Campled.
Can you point us in the direction for how you built that?

I just can't get my elbows far enough back, or the seat for that matter? P-5 six, so now I am trying shimano evo's because the elbow pads are adjustable so they can actually be rear of the handle bars. Sure wish the High riser was facing the other way, then it would be close. I realize there are so many differences in TT fit's but the six was made for triathletes and for the longer distanced we need to be a bit higher and a bit farther forward.
Help any other solution? I tried an extension plate that helped bu was not practical.

---

Go Big or go Home

Johnny,

The hydraulic tube has a strong curl to it as a result of being coiled during shipping, so it tends to scrape along the inside edge of the guide tube.
At the end of the guide tube, there are one or two edges that the hose must pass by. These edges are nearly flush but there is some normal variation in height around the joint.

Have him twist the hose so it contacts the other side of the guide tube, where the step may be smaller or a step down instead of a step up.

Also the end of the tube can be cut at a chamfered angle to help it slip past any obstruction.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thank you Damon, I will pass this on to my mechanic.

Do you know, or have a gut feeling, if that's likely to also be true with a P4?

Hi Ant,

Yes, also true for the P4 (and P3 and P2), but it requires a properly shaped seat tube. Tire gap is something we've been studying a long time, which is why we have horizontal drop outs and adjusting screws. And a some very good seat tube shapes. :-)

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Kenstone Metal Company sure didn't make it easy getting their sticker off!


If anyone else is having trouble since it doesn't peel, I finally got it with a little googone and a gift card for scraping (gently of course).


Loving my new upgrade from a trusty P3

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http://toddbyers.blogspot.com/ | @ToddByers

Damon, any thoughts on my sticky brake?

Damon, I'm currently building my 51 P5-3, and just to check - does the fork not require a crown race? No crown race was included, and the bottom of the steerer seems to be cone shaped to sit against the bearing, but a google search for information didn't find anything, so I thought I should check just in case.

Hi

I had the same query and my LBS told me that there was no crown race included because the P5-3 fork is already chamfered.

regards