Rotor 'No Q' rings are included on all of our bikes. That is Rotor's round ring. If you like the Q, you do need to order them through the retailer. That way, you can pick the exact gearing that you need.

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David Byer
Cervélo

The new Dura Ace Di2 borrows heavily from the Ultegra. So my 'assumption' is that it would be a difficult 'hack' to get the remote shifter buttons out on the brake levers with Ultegra Di2. You could likely use the climbing shifters that ATC showed me yesterday, but they are bulkier than the 'hack' that most people used with the 1st generation Dura Ace Di2. So, in short I don't really know.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Finally finished my tool box.
Completes my DIYs for the build (Di2 base bar shifters, bento & tool box).
Was apprehensive about the 38cm width base bars but steering is stable.
The Maguras are great, more than the stopping power,the often used modulation & feel is incredible.





Tool box fits spare, cannisters & levers well.

Awesome!!!! When are you starting to take orders??? ;-). Seriously....

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_____________________________________________
"It's a line you have to cross to understand."

What's the tool box made of? Are you selling? Definitely would be interested in one for a size 56

I think... my pants... yeah...

I'll take one, size 54, matte finish. ;-) Where do I wire the money do?

TAKE MY MONEY!!

If you don't want to sell me one, will you at least show us how you made it?

That is incredible. Really like how you tied into the painting scheme. Curious if you found something already that was plastic that fit so well with some modifications? or you fabricate something from scratch? Looks too big to make on a regular 3D printer. Guess you could do it in two pieces. Plus the finish looks much nicer than what I have been able to do on a 3D printer.

For me I usually put extra tubes, levers, tools, in bottle and behind saddle. Then use between aero bars and regular position for bottles and rotate with water and gatoraid or whatever is available. This setup looks so nice but I am actually more comfortable grabbing a bottle from below then behind. But this looks so incredible :)

nevermind....

Hi Samuel,

The P5 hanger is the strongest hanger we've measured; over three times stronger and stiffer than replaceable hangers, and frames with replaceable hangers.

The fact you've replaced the hanger on your road bike isn't indicative of the chance of damaging your P5. Think of three force levels.

Force level 1:
Replaceable hangers are a lot weaker, and as a result, get damaged at lower force levels than solid dropouts. Replacement frequency is a *lot* higher than damaged P-series frames. At this level of force, a replaceable hanger is toast, but a solid dropout is completely undamaged.

Force level 2:
At a higher force level, even frames with replaceable hangers get destroyed - yes, the frame, not only the replaceable hanger. Dropouts on bikes with replaceable hangers aren't as strong as solid dropouts. At this level of force some solid dropouts might be slightly bent, but usually can be straightened without harm.

Force level 3:
At the highest level of force, yes, a solid dropout can be broken. In practice this rarely happens. In fact it's so rare, it makes news on this forum nearly every time.

So I like solid dropouts but I'm afraid if we don't get the word out appropriately the market might force us to change to replaceable hangers, as the road market has. Then we suffer the flex and imprecision or the replaceable dropout on every ride.

Hope this helps,

Damon

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks Damon.

I really appreciate your response.

Sam.

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Samuel Arthur Medway
Perth, Western Australia

Is there any way to shorten the reach on the Aduro bar? My P5 just came in and I am worried it might be a bit to long with the Aduro bar. I am currently riding a 51 P2 with a 70mm stem and thought a P5 would be perfect since it has a bit less reach, but I didn't account for the bar. Any suggestions or am I going to have to ride a bit stretched? thanks

If your bike is a size 56, i will buy one of those! Or if you need measurements off a 56, i can provide them!

I WANT one!

Nice job!

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Alex,

Congrats on the new P5. The reach of the bar can be shortened in two ways. First; the arm pads can be mounted up to 25mm closer to you or 25mm farther based on the bolt mounting positions. In the centre position, the effective stem length is 90mm. Mounting them all the way back will get you close to the same as your previous set up with the 70mm stem. Second, the aero bar extension length is adjustable by loosening the large hex collars that the extensions plug into. Riders who use a very short reach to the bar ends may have to cut the extensions slightly. Hacksaw takes care of that.

The base bar position will not move. But, the most important parts are the arm pads and the extensions.

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David Byer
Cervélo

That tool box looks amazing, great job. I agree with everyone else, I want to buy one!

Where do I send my money?? You did a really nice job - it looks very professional; - how did you make it -

Hi, I m trying to install Enve Rims on the P5Six. However the rims are to wide, so the brake pads touch the rims, and the wheel does not move.

Any suggestions on how I can get them to fit, as the adjustment on the brake leavers dont give enough space for them. Even on their loosest settings I can't move the wheel.

As they are not normal caliper style, I m kind of out of ideas!

Any advice would be great.

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My Blog - My Tweets - My Strava
My Bikes - CF SLX, 622SLX, O-1.0, AL9.0, 4.3Disc, Slice BI, C60

Alex, do you have the little spacer between the brake shoe and calliper?

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David Byer
Cervélo

Yes. I have the spacer in there. Just went to OBI, and got thiner spacers. That should work. Or can I take them out completely?

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My Blog - My Tweets - My Strava
My Bikes - CF SLX, 622SLX, O-1.0, AL9.0, 4.3Disc, Slice BI, C60

You can take them out completely and see how that spacing works

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David Byer
Cervélo

Hi David, thanks for this. But although this solves the issue of the spacing; in the process of of alligning the brakes, I managed in my tired moment to go the wrong direction with allen key, and brake a screw. Not good, Part of the screw is in the brake caliper. I hope my local store can fix this.

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My Blog - My Tweets - My Strava
My Bikes - CF SLX, 622SLX, O-1.0, AL9.0, 4.3Disc, Slice BI, C60

D'oh! We've all been there. Fortunately the Magura works with standard brake shoes. So, replacing will be hassle free at your local shop. Swing by, show them what's up and I'm sure you'll be up a riding in no time.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Hi David

Spent a few "fit" sessions on my P5 before taking it out on the road, I have a few questions:

Rear wheel spacing (just like the previous poster):

I have a HED stinger disc tubular (rear), which is quite wide. I had the same brake rub issue as described by the previous poster. I have no spacers in the brake pads, and it is rubbing on the drive side to the point where I can't use this wheel. My solution was to bleed out some of the fluid to the point where I had enough spacing.

Yes I know that when people do things like this they are doing it at there own risk etc. The rear brake worked to the point where I could feather it a bit, we were doing an informal 45 km TT and the braking worked well enough.

The issue is that when I look down at the wheel it appears to be off set to the drive side by about 2-3 mm. The dropout screws are all the way in and the wheel (I have checked this several times) is locked in as it should be. Is it normal for the wheel to be off centre?

My LBS is re-filling and bleeding the brakes so they will be back to normal. What would be the solution? I know I could shave the pads, but the way the wheel sits takes up all of the play in the Magura brakes.

Rear wheel cut out:


As I said the wheel is as far in as it will go, why is there still a 3/16 inch or so gap to the down tube? I looked at pics online and this appears to be the norm.

Arduro Bars:


I am set up in the "low" position, and have play in the extensions and the bolts are loose where the extension piece mounts to the base bar.

I read somewhere on here about the low position and base bar bolts not being quite right, could you remind me of the solution?

The extensions are also loose, I tightened them with a rag and a wrench as much as I dare but there is still a lot of play in them, are these 22mm and maybe supposed to be 22.2mm? They don't appear to have enough outside diameter to be tightened to the point where they are rigid.

I like a really solid and rigid front end, as it is now everything is quite flexy, perhaps others have seen this?

Thanks,
Maurice

had the same front end issues with you on my low setup. for the extensions i used plumbing tape.wrapped them on the area that goes iniside the clamp,built up the wrap little by little (had to insert & re-insert) till i got a snug fit. for my extension mounts,i substituted the bolts provided with shorter ones and it seems to solve the problem. good luck!

Hi Maurice,


Your list of concerns is very clear, thanks.


Rear wheel & brake:
Your brakes had too much fluid. It sounds as if the brakes can open mechanically (with less oil) wide enough to fit your rim, so simply bleed them in that position. It's not necessary to bleed with the quick release open, as the quick release function isn't needed with wide rims anyway. This is a correct way to bleed brakes, so they use the full range of motion.


It's not normal for the rear wheel to be off centre. Check that the wheel is perfectly symmetrical first. If it is, then the drop outs may not be symmetrical. Normally the drop outs are filed at the factory until they're symmetrical. If your frame needs a little more filing we can do it, or you or your Cervelo retailer can. Keep in mind you only need to file about 1/8 to 1/4 of the amount by which the rim is off centre.


Cut out:
Correct, it's normal to have some gap. With the P5's new seat tube aero surfaces, drag is unchanged up to 6 mm. More than 6 mm and the drag increases slightly.


Aduro bars:
I'm not familiar with the issues you mention. The previous poster seems to have solved them, but next week I'll look into any possible official solution as well.


Have a great weekend,


Damon

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)