Just ordered my P5 Six last week. Hoping that I can have the bike in the next month or two as I sold my last bike (wife wont let me have two). Availability said January. After reading these posts I now hope I have a bike for the season.

I hope for the same ;)
Which size did you order?
As long as i have my bike before the 29th of March as I have my training camp then and is a good time to get to know the bike as lots of miles will be done on it!

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2016 Schedule:
IM South Africa - Challenge Roth - IM 70.3 Zell am See - Marathon Valencia

I ordered a 54. I'm in San Fran. Exact same time frame for me. I'm running Oakland Mara in march and my A race this year is IM Fla so I figured I would risk March. Fingers crossed.

Just about to build a P5-6 frame up. I need to adjust the spacers and bar. Obvious question I suppose but I assume there is no way to do it without disconnecting the hydraulic brake cables to pass them through the spacers. Is it best to disconnect at the brake or at the lever end. As mentioned earlier the ability to remove the spacers without disconnecting the cables would be useful.

keep in mind you can make fine adjustments with elbow pad spacers as well potentially.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Hi Pinny,

Disconnect the hydraulic hose at the brake caliper end. The connection at the lever is not intended to be disconnected on a regular basis.

If shortening the hose: With practice, you can reconnect without bleeding if you're careful not to spill too much - just trim off the length, and with it, the tiny amount of air in the end of the hose.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

anyone interested in trading my p5-3 fork for a p5-6 fork? Obviouslya plus cash deal would be made on my part. no need for the aduro bar either


Edit: my fork is on a 56 glossy frame. I could also be willing to trade a brand new pro missile evo bar and stem combo with the fork if you wanted to trade the aduro bar with it!

Going to buy a new bike case for a soon (hopefully) to be arriving P5-6. Would the standard triall3 hard case work well without too much brake down? Will I have to worry about disconnecting/bleeding the brakes every time I pack it? I want to get case that needs as little work as possible. Any thoughts/recommendations? Interested in a hard case only.

After building a few P5's I can honestly say they are going to be very, very difficult to pack (especially the SIX - because of the bars and the way they go together). While no two bikes pack the same way, from my experience the P5 will be tough but not impossible. It'll just require more disassembly.

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You will have to remove the bars to pack it if you have the Aduro. Remove the front brake and cover, then take the bars out. So, you'll have to re-set the headset bearings when you get to your destination. The main trouble with this part of the packing is that you might also have to remove your arm-rests to remove the between the bars bottle mount in order to take off the stem cover.

It is a little bit more involved than most bikes, but not too much.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

  
Yes. The P5-Six takes a little more time to pack than some bikes, but I found it pretty simple. You will have to remove the bar to fit it in the case. That will involve removing the top part of the stem (simple - 4 bolts) and the rest is like a standard stem. You will also remove the brake covers -- no tool required -- and the beard which requires a small hex. I think it is 2 or 2.5mm, I'd have to check to be sure. Make sure that you have all of the size options on your allen key before you travel.


No. You will not need to disconnect your hydraulic brake lines at all. If you really wanted to be flexible with how much you can move your bar around, you can take the front brake off the fork. It attaches like any standard front brake so it takes very little time.

I appreciate MechMan's perspective. If you have built a P5-Six from scratch, you will know that the build is more time consuming that something like a P3. However, once it is built, there is no real need to take much apart. I have packed a P5 in both hard and soft shell cases (as well as a cardboard box or two) and they were all pretty simple. So, I would stick with your preference for cases. The Tri All 3 looks good. The Velo Safe models appear to be pretty hassle free. I personally used a Scion that mounts in a similar fashion but it is soft shell. I thought that type of case was definitely a time saver over the "clam shell" style.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Damn what a service.
Officially ordered my P5-Six-Sram-red 58 frame on the 11th of January.
Tomorrow I will hold it in my hands!
Hopefully my legs can ride it that fast as the delivery!
Thanks Cervelo!!

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2016 Schedule:
IM South Africa - Challenge Roth - IM 70.3 Zell am See - Marathon Valencia

Congrats. post pics

I will!!!

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2016 Schedule:
IM South Africa - Challenge Roth - IM 70.3 Zell am See - Marathon Valencia

I just got "authorized" to get a 51cm! Yahoo! I'm told it will be in the shop in Feb. So...David, any chance of speccing the 51 (or at least mine) with 165mm cranks?

Dave

Sorry to harass you with questions but if you wouldn't mind: Did they give you a date in Feb? Was it P5-3 or 6? Are you a USA customer or elsewhere? Thanks.

No problem. No specific date given, but I didn't ask for one either. I'm in Alberta, so whether it's Feb, March or even April, where I live it is somewhat irrelevant! I did a bit of calling around both north and south of the border, and one 51cm is coming to Calgary in Feb and three are coming to Edmonton at the same time. The one in Calgary is not sold as of yet, but the three in Edmonton are, the third now secured by me. The folks in the US that I spoke with were a little less certain as to when they were getting theirs. One chap said June in fact. BTW, I'm getting the P5-Three SRAM Red and will buy a P5-6 fork/Aduro bar separately at the appropriate time.

Dave

Fwiw...I ordered my 51cm p5-6 in November 2012. Took delivery at ATC in Austin last week. My bike was the SRAM Red version.

I know availability is geographical, but it does seem like a bit of a joke that you can get one so quickly when other people are still waiting who placed their orders nearly a year before you.

I've sold a lot of equipment in preparation for my new P5. I have been considering selling my Quarq gpx power meter. My understanding is that if I use the adapter, I will lose the benefit of the BBright. My question is what crank based Power Meter would you recommend? I would be open to something other than crank based power, but I'm trying to avoid being limited to 1 wheel for both training and racing.

Good question trithink, it illustrates an important point. Your understanding, as you put it, is that you 'lose the benefit of BBright' by using adapters. I think I know where that understanding comes from, but I don't completely agree with the statement.


The first benefit of BBright is better power transfer. The better power transfer comes from two things; an incredibly stiff bottom bracket area of the frame with no weight or ride quality compromises, and the potential to use a stiffer crank. The frame portion of that benefit is by far the most significant and will always exist; it is built right into BBright frames. The crank side of the equation is the only place where you might be making a compromise. If you aren't running the stiffest crank possible, there is room for improvement.


The other benefit of BBright is that it is compatible with so many different options. You can use the new SRAM Red Quarq 30mm axle version, the new Rotor Power crank, a large range of SRM cranks (including FSA Mega-Exo, Dura-Ace and Rotor BBright 3D+) or opt to keep your Quarq GXP. So, it would be hard to say you will 'lose the benefit of the BBright' design. Rather, I would say that you have the option to use a more optimal crank.


Personally, I think the crank based PM is the way to go. I use a Dura-Ace SRM on my P3 and currently ride the SRAM Quarq S975 (30mm axle - last year's version) on my R5 and S5. Both are great but I like using the 30mm axle on my BBright frames. It makes for easier maintenance and it is very quick to move from one frame to the other. I just leave a BB pressed into both bikes so it only takes a couple minutes.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Thank you. So my current Quarq s975 would not only work with the BBright, but also the new SRAM Red components?

trithink - I guess you have the GXP version of the S975. It will work with the frame and Enduro adapters. As far as how the old style rings will work with the new YAW front derailleur, I can't really comment. I am sure they will "work" as in - you will be able to shift. However, I am sure it will not "work" nearly as well as the new rings that are designed to work with the YAW derailleur. The word "work" is open to some interpretation here. Ultimately, I am only speculating since I haven't tried that set up myself. Someone from SRAM would be better suited to answer that question.

Or maybe there is another ST'er reading that has tried this set up already....

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David Byer
Cervélo

Dave,
Is it true that getting a custom paint job voids the warranty?

Thanks,
Doug

After ordering the bike last week, here are some progress pictures after we got it today at the LBS.

Start of P5-six Sram Red:




Out of the box:





Further buildup






Further updates will be posted, tomorrow!

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2016 Schedule:
IM South Africa - Challenge Roth - IM 70.3 Zell am See - Marathon Valencia