Hi Carl,

Can you please hook me up with some information on stem sizes and their corresponding model numbers for the SC 9.9? I have either the largest one or the middle one and want to go lower. Also, can I have the part numbers for the bolts that hold the P clamps to the aerobars (I tried Home Depot but the bases were too wide) and those that attach the plastic covering over the rear brake cable near the bottom bracket?

Thanks.

rear brake cover bolts, there are 3 total:

• (2) W311088
• (1) W311089

P-clamp bolts, a couple different ways to go on this:

• 420693 is a bolt kit which includes three M5x1mm bolts (you need two) along with the pad stack bolts for one side of the extensions, all in stainless steel
• W309908 is a pair of M5x15mm bolts normally used on the stem, black oxide coated steel, may develop rust

Not enough information to determine which stem you already have, but from the table below you should be able to figure it out (it's printed on the underside of the stem near the bar). Like on the new bike, there are two families of stems: near and far. Within each family there is a low, a medium, and a high option, each of which is 35mm different from the next lowest/highest. If all you want to do is move lower and not make a large change in reach, pick the next lowest stem within the appropriate family:

NEAR

(low, 50/10) 420562
(medium, 60/45) 420564
(high, 80/75) 420566

FAR

(low, 100/10) 420563
(medium, 100/45) 420565
(high, 110/75) 420567

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Carl Matson

Thanks for the prompt and thorough reply Carl.

• 420693 is a bolt kit which includes three M5x1mm bolts (you need two) along with the pad stack bolts for one side of the extensions, all in stainless steel
• W309908 is a pair of M5x15mm bolts normally used on the stem, black oxide coated steel, may develop rust

Is that a typo on the one listed as 1 mm and the other 15 mm?

indeed...was trying to edit and didn't realize I left it incomplete, sorry!...s/b M5x16mm on the first PN...1mm longer than on the other PN.

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Carl Matson

I have the 60 x 45. My aerobars are only 1-2 cm from being at the line that tells me I have reached the maximum I can extend them. Do you think I would be better off with the near or far version of the lowest stem?

Thanks.

Because the bars move slightly forward as you drop down in stem sizes (the mounting holes move along the steerer axis) you actually gain another 1cm of forward pad range if you simply go down to the 50/10. If you think you're going to use up 2-3cm of reach in the very near future, then going straight to the 100/10 is an option...because you can easily slide the extensions and pads back to where you are now even on that stem...but be aware you would also will be putting the brake levers 5.5cm out in front of where you are now too.

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Carl Matson

Carl,

I have a 2011 7.0, I want to put the power2max power meter on it... I have a SRAM GXP(i think) and require a standard shimano 24mm in order for it to work .. What is involved in changing the bearings, is this a long job for the shop? or is it even recommended, meaning is it not dangerous to pull the bearings from the frame ?

or maybe you can tell me this happens all the time..?

Thanks!

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Hey,

I have done this to fit my rotor p2m cranks,not a big job at all,I will look over my invoice to see what part no was for the dura-ace bb I used,only took a few mins to do,

Noel,

easy. PN 419088 or 419609 for the Shimano press-fit BB

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Carl Matson

I am changing my SC9 with Sram over to Di2 9000.

I have left all the cables and housing and then taped off the new e-tube wires to them to feed them through the frame.

Couple of questions having never worked with e-tube before.

Do I need to remove the cable guide on the bottom of the frame? I have a Di2 kit on order from LBS is there something that will replace it?
My long 1000mm cable for the downtube has a bunch of zip-tie like things on it. Do i leave those on or take them off when installing through the frame?

Was anybody able to keep the base bar on and the brake housing routed in it and still get the e-tube wires from the brakes through the bar?

I gather there is no order to what plugs into what on the junction boxes? It is smart enough to know what each thing plugged in is and does?

Any and all advice will go a long way with me getting this done with little frustration.

Don't need to remove the cable guide, but it also serves no purpose once you've got the Di2 in there. Nothing to replace it with.

The zipties are anti-rattle measures. They do make running the Di2 wires a little more challenging if you don't use a nifty trick like leaving the old housing there to help pull them through. Smart move.

I don't see any way you can leave the basebar installed and get the Di2 wires run through it... much easier to start from a loose bar with nothing in it, run the Di2, then run the brake housing.

eTube Di2 is pretty much plug and play.

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Carl Matson

But wouldn't that 5.5 cm only be if I kept the aerobars near the maximum insert as they are now. And would it be easy to get them to the same relative position as they are now with the longer stem?

Carl, really appreciate your quick response on running Di2. Maybe only took an hour of work probably less. Measure 2x route 1x.

So excited to get this finished up. I will keep buying Trek because I really appreciate your help and all the help from my shop in my hometown.

Hopefully I can get the SC v2 pretty soon.

I'm talking about the basebar...it moves as the stem moves, independent of where the pads are. You can get the pads to where they are now, even with the lower and longer stem, but your brake levers will be moving quite a bit out as well as somewhat down.

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Carl Matson

Duh! I was reading brake levers and thinking shifters. Thanks for the clarification Carl.

Hi Carl,

I'm having a year end maintenance of my 2012 Trek SpeedConcept 7.0 and need two parts.
What is the Item number of rear derailleur hanger?
What are the specifications of headset?

Thanks in advance....

Hi Carl,

I have a 2012 9.8 that I recently picked up from a TREK store. My bike came equipped with black front brake and cover. I noticed in the archives my bike should have white ones. Do you know if I can get that from Trek? What are the part numbers? Thanks!

Does anybody have experience stuffing the new 5-port junction box under the stem of a 100/45 stem? I have not really tried it yet as I am not totally done setting everything up and testing it but it just doesnt look like enough room. Do people just pull the junction out and let it flap in the wind? Is there a trick to get all the wires and the port in there without putting a lot stress on cover of the stem?

Hanger PN depends on which one you have on the bike right now...it's stamped into the hanger...here's the cheat sheet.

7-series headset bearings are standard 1" (top) and 1.125" (bottom) headset bearings with 45deg chamfers. From your Trek dealer, W307396 is a complete headset including top cap, bearing race, split washer and bearings

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Carl Matson

From your Trek dealer:

white front brake is W314901

white front brake cover PN depends on what size bike you have.

W315893 small
W315982 XS and medium (yes, they're the same...same headtube length)
W315984 large
W315985 XL

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Carl Matson

SOON...............................................................................!

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Stay tuned ;-)

another one ??? ok

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Thanks, are there part numbers for the white plugs that cover the two bolts on the front brake?

Wow! Love Gulf colors. Can't wait for the finished build. Do you have more photos or a build thread/blog?

I received my new SC 2014 Spartacus Edition last month. I'm using Shimano DuraAce Di2 11 speed group set.
Just wonder where you put the 'shimano dura ace 9070 di2 EW90-B 5 port JunctionBox' ?

Currently I put it on top of the 'Triagle stem box' (see the picture). However, it looks so messy with all the cables in and out the box (see pictures)

It is NOT looks 'Ultra Clean Front End' as Trek advertised in the website.... :)

Any ideas where should I put the Di2 JunctionBox??? so it is look Clean Front End.....


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