Hi iyun

The EW90 box wasn't designed for internal installations... so we added two sets of thin-walled sections inside the stem cover labeled "Di2 holes" which you can knock out for ziptie access. I see you're using one set and your box sits pretty low...using the second one should move your EW90 box up a little further. There's a similar knockout "notch" towards the front of the stem cover which is intended to give you an exit port for the eTube wires coming out of the frame and bar. There's plenty of room to hide the excess wire inside the bar, the high-near stem you've got, and to some extent the mono-spacer, which would avoid the big loop you've got going.

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Carl Matson

I'm not finding a PN for those at all...possible that the white version isn't included in warranty support anymore. The black ones are PN w302606.

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Carl Matson

hello

thanks for your message ;-)
the bike is finished to be paint last week and I think to build it next week, for sure I have a lot of photos but I prefer to show it by parts as a teaser ;-)

and sorry I haven't got a blog I post my work only on my FB

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Hi Carl,
Appreciated your quick reply.
So, I need to knock out the "notch"? but it is hard to do that, unless we have to drill it. is the stem cover made by carbon or plastic? Thanks

it's just plastic, so if you score it a few times with something like a utility knife it should break away pretty easily.

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Carl Matson

Great!.....Thanks Carl.....

Yup it's true. My Mavic Comete disc does not fit on my Trek Speed Concept. The disc has a lenticular shape and hits the duotrap sensor. Onlly options I can see are either modifying the sensor (I don't use it ), or getting a spacer into the nondrive side Thoughts?

I think if you can't get it to work with the Duotrap sensor removed (including the grommet) then you can try the spacer idea, but only if you had a corresponding spacer you could remove from the driveside...and if doing so didn't cause interference between your chain and the driveside dropout when you're in the smallest cog.

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Carl Matson

ok so for today it will be the fork

;-)

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Hi Carl, Im selling my 2012 trek SC. Its Di2 but im being asked can mechanical fit it if i sell frame only. I do have standard cover that wasnt used under the BB. (the one where the di2 battery is)

thanks

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BMC

absolutely. the other thing you will want to make sure you include (or the buyer will have to find themselves) is the bottom bracket cable guide, pn w310482.

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Carl Matson

Hey Carl. I'm planning on ordering a 2014 SC 7.5. I recently did a fit. My pad stack measurement was 690. Reach was 460. Those measurements didn't seem to fall into one of the portions on the chart. I was wondering if you could provide any insight. I'd like to have some range of adjustment with the frame size I order. Want to make sure I don't order the wrong size. Thanks for the help.

hi, so starting to show some parts of the frame ??

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You fall in to several categories on the new SC fit chart...just not in the mid-pad range. Not everyone finds their fit there.

How far down we go in the chart (pad range, or full range) depends on things like your saddle height...got that handy?

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Carl Matson

Looks like the seat height was 78.3 cm.

The fit was with the Guru system. The official coordinates were: SX (Saddle Horizontal) 150, SY (Saddle Vertical) 715, HX (Handlebar Horizontal) 480, and HY (Handlebar Vertical) 630. Don't know if those would mean anything to you but thought I'd post in case they did. Thanks

yeah...not too useful because HX and HY refer to a basebar center (as if you were riding a standard stem and bar vs an integrated aero system), but the saddle height you posted helps.

I've got you on a Large with High-Near, or an XL with Medium-Near. Of the two, the XL combo is the most versatile...as you're almost exactly in the middle of the entire range for pad stack and pad reach on that frame size. The High Near on the Large is a lot of stem...nothing wrong with that, it has it's place, but I need a good reason to recommend it...example: if you were around 5-11" to 6-2" tall and totally new to the sport and could reasonably expect to move only longer and lower in the future. Absent some mitigating condition like that, I'm leaning XL.

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Carl Matson

I am 5'11.5" with a 33" inseam. I'm relatively new to triathlon bikes. Based on how I was fit on the bike I think I was at the highest seat height I could go before my hips rocked size to side a lot. I could reasonably foresee lowering the seat in the future slightly. The XL size seems really big but I dont know much about sizing. A lot of shops told me I need a medium speed concept based on my size.

Good to know. While you could get to those coordinates on a Medium, I think it's not enough bike under you...I'd worry that as you get longer and lower you'll end up with too much of yourself too far forward and that would impact handling. The Large is starting to make more sense to me.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl. I think it sounds like I'll go with a Large with High Near stem. Thank you very much for your input. It's nice to be able to get advice from an individual with specific knowledge about the SC.

Out of curiosity, when you say "long and low" are you referring to being able to move the pads farther away from the saddle and closer to the ground? I assume that would be a more aerodynamic efficient position.

Carl,

I'm looking at a used 2011 SC 9.9 and trying to decide whether to go with the XL or L. I plan to get a fit but don't want to loss out on a good deal as long as the bike is in the range of fit and can be dialed in over the Winter. I come from a long time road racing/riding background. Currently on a Colnago road bike with the following measurements. Seat top - center bb - 82cm, drop from saddle top to top of bars - 10.5 cm, reach tip of saddle to bars - 60.8 cm, and setback tip of saddle to center bb - 11cm. Been in this position for sometime and feel comfortable and efficient. I'm assuming that the seat height will increase 1-2 cm with the saddle moving forward for a TT position. Any suggestion on whether the XL or L is more likely to fit? If i can't determine without a fit I might just pass on the deal no matter how good.

Thanks

Exactly :-)

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Carl Matson

you're on the wrong bike entirely. you should be on a road bike fitted as a tri bike. a cervelo S5, something like that.

you'll find the SC way too long for you. the pursuit bars will be horribly far in front of you, if the aerobars are fitted to you.

unless, that is, you're riding an ISM saddle and you have the teensiest part of your ass hanging precipitously on the forwardmost protrusion of the saddle. that's the only way i could justify you riding ANY tri bike. if this scenario is not the case, and you want an aero bike, it's an S5, or a felt AR, or something of the like.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Dan, not to hijack the Speed concept thread, but I went through this exercise of trying to find a tri bike that I could essentially ride in the saddle in a roadie position because I wanted most of my weight on my butt due to neck issues from an accident a few years ago. I wanted a bike that I could slam the saddle back on and still have a short reach. I ended up on the Slice which in my size has a 37 cm reach. I could not find a tri bike with a smaller reach.

You can see that the nose of my saddle is almost UCI legal which is almost impossible to do in some of the smaller frame sizes (this is a 51). The seat is slammed back in the rear seat post mount.

well, let me backtrack. he says this is position, comfortable, all of that. but then he talks about "moving forward to the TT position." so, i'm unsure what he means, that he intends to keep this road position for tri, or that he is really comfortable in that road position but he intends to move forward when on the speed concept. maybe he can elaborate.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman