Thanks for the tip, I will try those out.

Folks actually run that setup on recumbents to add chain clearance on the front for the cranks.
I have not seen that done to a new Dura-Ace though, you had to be wincing taking the hacksaw to it.

hope this link works
click on the x. shimano 600 ax calipers in use (ps. I no I look fat in that skin suit)

now if I could get somethong similar to these that take standard pads and that work ok(in black would be nice too) I would buy them in a flash(I know the TEKTROs,TRPs or OVALs could do a similar job front mounted with a few mods but I think these mods look messy at best and i would like to just buy the comlpete package, and before anyone brings up the TEKTRO T726R has anyone ever seen one other than on there website). I am waiting to see what Matt comes up with and contacted him with some more info on the AXs and their stopping power(or lack of it).

What about a centre pull similar to the TEKTRO T726R or HOOKER SL but available with a headset top(similar to FSA) or spacer with integrated cable stop( perhaps even a P4 compatable one for all you cervelo fans)
What about a slimmed down AX style brake that could take todays pads(I think this alone would improve stopping power)
I also like matts design but would maybe like to see it with a cable line similar to the garmin modifications( perhaps this type of cable line entry only on the front caliper, but I know this would add to production costs)
perhaps none of the above and something competely different

Personally, I think any amateur athlete that would take a hack saw to their brakes to do this is pretty stupid, but that's my opinion. Why an amateur, who does this as a hobby, and performs at a level far below professionals due to limited training time, and genetic &/or age limitations, would compromise a perfectly good piece of equipment to gain marginal time savings is beyond me.

By cutting off a large part of one of the brake arms, you're significantly changing the leverage, and likely compromising it. And now you're running cable through, or attaching cable in some manner, to a part of the brake arm that was not engineered for such a stress.

If a professional, who is world class in performance and whose livelihood depends on their performance wants to take such a risk, that's their business. But for an amateur... Sounds like a Darwin award candidate to me.

I'm all over this tech stuff and an aero weenie too. If you can safely run centerpulls or Hooker brakes, fine, or buy Matt's brakes, more power to you. But use a bit of common sense, folks.

So are you saying that John Cobb doesn't have any common sense?

http://www.blackwellresearch.com/...g%20instructions.pdf

:)

I was very much aware Cobb put this out. Yes, I think this particular recommendation lacks common sense.

its all just a leverage game. for more stopping power you need more leverage.

more leverage means longer levers. longer levers means less aeroness.

people use tiny vision tech brake levers
some use hooker brakes, some cut up dura ace brakes.

you could do both and maybe cut your hand in half trying to stop

fun times

perhaps the best solution is a hooker front brake
with a really long lever for your hand, but in line with the base bar, so there isn't much aero penalty

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I'm working on something like that.

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this thread seems to be turning into a hookers are best thread. Thats all very well and I am sure they are very aero but I cant exactly walk into my local bike shop and buy two pairs
it started with matt asking peoples thoughts on his new design and wanting some sugestions for improvements lets hope it gets back to that.

M@TTY

I think what we have learned in this thread up to this point which at times has gone off track a little, is that we like what Matt has to offer but would like him to really think about the input that has been given. Do we want a traditional brake design that has been created a bit more aero. NO!

I think what Matt needs to take away from this thread is that his new brake design has to have the cable mounted dead center in the brakes and that we would take the cable and housing coming straight down the center of the brake but we would prefer to have no cable housing at all and have the brakes come with a center pull adaptor that mounts to the fork steerer and allows just the cable to run down to the brake.

Make this as aero as possible and I will buy a pair as soon as they are available. The three brakes that he needs to look at are the Hooker, TRP/TEKTRO/OVAL and the old Dura-Ace aero brakes but make them more modern. Build it and they will come and you will have a lot of sales just from the ST crowd.

The likely fastest commercially available option has been laid out below:

The key is to get a small caliper (specialized/oval/tektro), centerpull brake (lines the cable in front of headtube), and minimize the cable housing using the centerpull-


so if you cannot get your hands on a hooker ...







Then build this: (credits to drgwood)

matt is working on a brake set not just a front brake! and I believe he does want them to be able to work as a brake not just look fast! a centerpull with no cable housing like the hooker or tektro center pull is all very well for the front but a bit more tricky for the rear
I am surprized no one has mentioned the modolo kronos on this thread another very rare, very aero brake with very limited stopping power.

M@TTY

the pics you have displayed show
a very rare hooker brake
a tektro brake no one has ever actually seen in the flesh(i think the only one in existance is in this picture)probably even rarer than the hooker
a mating of a tektro brake and the brake from a specialized transition frame(not exactly easy to get hold of unless I buy the carbon frame to go with it)
I know you mean well but this hasnt helped my predicament

M@TTY

another option is to combine http://ep.yimg.com/...cycles_2071_26816018

http://cyclocrossworld.stores.yahoo.net/jastca.html

Your what? What predicament are you referring to? M@tty just take an ativan

I'm in the process of making a super aero front brake out of normal brake parts and some old technology (none of which has been mentioned yet).

As BMAN has said, we have told him and the rest of the world what ST wants, a commercially available Hooker brake. Heck, if Andy can sell one for $450, commercial ones would sell for $200 front alone. Pretty good ROI considering it could basically use cantilever technology. Plus, people have set up a Hooker in the rear (with some tweaking but could be made to work if redone from scratch):

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Want: 58cm Cervelo Soloist. PM me if you have one to sell

Vintage Cervelo: A Resource

Now this post seems to be going someware thanks for the advice!

M@TTY

do you really expect me to take advice on brakes from a guy with his brake levers on his extensions
I can see from your pics that safety does not seem to concern you ( I dont even think the great mr Obree would risk that one)

M@TTY

This advice was given in the fifth post of this 120 post thread:

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Want: 58cm Cervelo Soloist. PM me if you have one to sell

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That's not my bike------you said a Hooker couldnt be mounted on the rear.

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Want: 58cm Cervelo Soloist. PM me if you have one to sell

Vintage Cervelo: A Resource

I said it was a bit more tricky to mount on the rear!
and the point I was making is that I dont want to have to spend hours machining small parts to make my brakes work and end up with a brakeset that looks like its made of mecano or produced in a high school metalwork class, If Matt does dicide to work on a center pull brake with or without cable housings I would hope it comes as a complete package so I wouldnt have to source, adapt or make cable hangers and brackets to make the thing work.

M@TTY

Yeah I would hope that too

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Want: 58cm Cervelo Soloist. PM me if you have one to sell

Vintage Cervelo: A Resource

Boy, I'd hate to know what you think of my set-up:

Do you only run one chainring? Is that for aero reasons or do you just never use another ring?


Also, you gotta do something with that raw drywall!

1. Yes (and sometimes only one cog in the rear).

2. Both.