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I'll post some pics below.
That is a beautiful assembly ;) I also own this bike and I'd like to make the same.
I have a question :
I would like to know how you do to pass the cable di 2 through the fork?
I know the scott plasma TT (only for Di2) have a hole in the fork to pass the cable but the Premium don't have it...
an other question :
have you removed the cable guide?
Please help me ;)
As others on this thread have described, I used a hobby knife to cut slits in the cable guides to run the rear brake cable and to run the Di2 cable to the rear derailleur.
Here's how I did my setup.
It is inspired by all previous posts, but slight variant.
Have a nice day!
/Richard, from Sweden
Don't think I quite have the sodering skills, fortunately a true 'Ultegra TT Di2' is coming out after the show :)
Want to try and convert my Foil to Di2 so I'm soaking in all the tips I can find.
Trying to find that old 60 min / 40k tt split!
thanks for sharing this diy.
i built my bike with cateyes and da brake lever/shifters based off your schematics.
my question is:
have you had any rear der shifting issues?
mine would shift back a few gears after i press the shift button and would sometimes not shift all the way to the largest cog.
i have a compact crank and 11-28 ultegra 6700.
has anyone else had this happen?
I am going to go ahead and add electronic shifting to my P2.
It would seem that the best approach for hiding the battery and other electronics is in the seat post, under the saddle and bike frame under the seat post.
My plan is to put regular, off the shelve, switches on aero bars and on pursuit bars and wire them all the way back to the seat post inside the frame. Then put the electronics, STI box, in the bike frame under the seat post. Purchase a replacement battery and put it in the seat post. Drill a hole in the seat post and put the battery mount box under the seat so that I can connect here to recharge the battery.
I really need to do this because I don't have any place in my aero bars to conceal electronics. I don't see any reason why this approach would not work but curious if you see any reason why I could not take this approach.
In more detail:
Purchase momentary switch and mount on aero bars and on vision brake levers. Wire inside aero bars and then into P2 frame in the top tube all switch wires (this would be my own wire). This would be longer runs then what you have to the STI box as my electronics will be under the seat post. Splice here into the STI box. Then wire from the STI box up to the battery mount SM-BMR1 which is under the saddle. Then wire from the SM-BMR1 to the battery that is in seat post. Then wire straight down from the saddle to the FD and to the RD.
This would seem to be very clean. First concern is the momentary switches being so far from the STI box. Second concern is I am not exactly sure of the wiring from battery mount, battery and FD and RD so not sure if that is too many wires through the seat post. Alternative would be to not have anything under the saddle but instead have everything in the seat post and bike frame. It would then require me to remove the seat to charge the battery. Which might not be that big of an issue.
Appreciate any input.
Yah, they call it the eTube system. The new DA Di2 is totally compatible with the Ultegra DI2.
So you could have a Ultegra rear derailleur, Ultegra front derailleur and DA TT shifters/brakes. They all plug into a junction box through their eTube wires.
Later on you could switch out your Ultegra rear derailleur with a DA one and the system would be just fine.
CEO at TrainerRoad
Co-host of the Ask a Cycling Coach Podcast