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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [bikemessenger88] [ In reply to ]
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bikemessenger88 wrote:
i am still not sure, if 2 x sw-r600 without an st 6770 does work, or if the software manage them only for rear derallieur?!
nobody knows if this will work or not? :-S

Did you ever get an answer as to whether you can use the SW-R600 remote shifter without having to have an ST-6770 Brifter in place?
This is a great option for those of use wanting to shift the rear derailleur from the drop bars when we have integrated brake levers, so can't go with the Shimano levers.
Thanks
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [BigBloke] [ In reply to ]
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no i never got an answer. i could never try it out. but now i have 2x left and 2x right triathlon switchers. and you could make one left for front and one left for rear deralieur and you could make the both right derallieur vice versa. from that point of view it may work that 2 x sw-r600 can be programmed different: one for front one for rear, but this is not proofed.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [bikemessenger88] [ In reply to ]
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As I understand it, the sw-r600 climbing shifters work exactly like the sw-r671 triathlon bar-end shifters: no brake shifters required.

I'm not sure if you can have 2 identical sw-R600-L (left) switches installed on the same system but configured differently (one controls front, one rear.) This obviously isn't the intent, but my guess is that it would work. The eTube software would show 2 identical shifters, so you'd need to use trial-and-error to figure out which is which.

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Re: Scott Plasma 3 Ultegra Di2 Hack with Extension Mounted Rockers [Dkblume] [ In reply to ]
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Could you send me a photo of those holes as we? lokiddp@gmail.com
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [turboferret] [ In reply to ]
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Rich
Thanks for sharing your enhancements.

In order to add two extra pairs of analog switches (one under the pads, one at the integrated-aerobar brake-lever) my hope had been to simply bring 3 wires out from the innards of the aero lever, and I was hoping that one of those 8 solder joints shown in the right of my picture below was linked directly to the center of the switch, however I checked with a multimeter, and none of them are. Thus the options are to either:

a) Lift out the circuit board, and try to break in from the (presumably sealed) component side to get access to the analog center point of the switches - has anyone tried this? Seems risky and almost impossible if there is a component immediately opposite.
b) Lay down a new track on the circuit board from the centerpoint to the edge, then cover it with an insulator so that the discs don't cause a permanent short-circuit. Maybe using a Circuit writer pen (image below) covered in a good insulator - then it's easy to bring out wires while preserving the current functionality. Has anyone tried this?
c) The option you chose - move the circuit board elsewhere, and add my own analog switches into the Shimano R791 aero shifter.

I think I'll go with c), although b) is simpler. I'll post pictures on this thread. Would you mind sharing with us the model of your Waterproof Micro-Switches, I've struggled to find the same ones online.
Also, since the two switches have a common ground, and since we want to minimize the amount of soldering done at the circuit board, it seems prudent just to attach 3 wires to the board, and then split it further up the cable, rather than your option of having 6 wires going into the circuit board assembly.

Thanks again for sharing your ideas.

Doug




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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [BigBloke] [ In reply to ]
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Doug,

I had no idea that the tools existed for adding a new track, so once I realised that there weren't any easy options, new switches seemed to be the only option and relocating the internals somewhere else. 3 wires soldered onto the board and then splitting later may be a more elegant solution, but mine works!

Cheers, Rich
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [turboferret] [ In reply to ]
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Oh, also beware of what switches you are using, and their IP rating. My rear gears went crazy then packed up on Sunday at the very wet 70.3 World Champs in Vegas, leaving me with a choice of 42-11 or 53-11 for the 2nd half of the undulating bike course, not exactly ideal! Suspected water ingress at the time, and as the gears worked fine the next morning after sitting in the hotel overnight, pretty sure I was right.

Cheers, Rich
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [ In reply to ]
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Could annonce help me clarify some things in this subject?

Want to upgrade to di2 ultegra and have the brake shifters also, 10 speed. But after reading quite alot of this im confused.

What is bare minimum needed to do this upgrade?
Here is what i came too.
Front and rear deralliur ultegra
Bar end shifters ultegra
Brakes/shifters dura ace (since ultegra version dont excist?)
Cables
Battery box

I can live without the junction box and just solder everthing together/make my own connector box?
Use different much cheaper battery than shimano?
Do i need the battery box if i use another battery?
Do i need junction box to make dura ace and ultegra shifters work together?

Im use to RC planes, so soldering and wires are not an issue.

Regards michael
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Bamze] [ In reply to ]
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Bamze wrote:
Could annonce help me clarify some things in this subject?

Want to upgrade to di2 ultegra and have the brake shifters also, 10 speed. But after reading quite alot of this im confused.

What is bare minimum needed to do this upgrade?
Here is what i came too.
Front and rear deralliur ultegra
Bar end shifters ultegra
Brakes/shifters dura ace (since ultegra version dont excist?)
Cables
Battery box

I can live without the junction box and just solder everthing together/make my own connector box?
Use different much cheaper battery than shimano?
Do i need the battery box if i use another battery?
Do i need junction box to make dura ace and ultegra shifters work together?

Im use to RC planes, so soldering and wires are not an issue.

Regards michael

You have to have a front junction of some type as this is the central brain lives. The bottom junction can by bypassed if you are keen to cut and solder but that is a lot of work for 35$ savings.
You can use a cheaper/larger battery no issue, be careful with polarity during connections.
Ultegra Di2 shifters exist as St-6770 and St-6870
You need to be careful as the first generation Dura ace Di2 is not compatible in any way with the new dura ace/ultegra e-tube di2 system.
Last edited by: Pantelones: Jan 11, 14 19:22
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Pantelones] [ In reply to ]
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Pantelones wrote:
Bamze wrote:
Could annonce help me clarify some things in this subject?

Want to upgrade to di2 ultegra and have the brake shifters also, 10 speed. But after reading quite alot of this im confused.

What is bare minimum needed to do this upgrade?
Here is what i came too.
Front and rear deralliur ultegra
Bar end shifters ultegra
Brakes/shifters dura ace (since ultegra version dont excist?)
Cables
Battery box

I can live without the junction box and just solder everthing together/make my own connector box?
Use different much cheaper battery than shimano?
Do i need the battery box if i use another battery?
Do i need junction box to make dura ace and ultegra shifters work together?

Im use to RC planes, so soldering and wires are not an issue.

Regards michael

You have to have a front junction of some type as this is the central brain lives. The bottom junction can by bypassed if you are keen to cut and solder but that is a lot of work for 35$ savings.
You can use a cheaper/larger battery but you have to connect it through a battery junction (which means buying one and hacking it apart).
Ultegra Di2 shifters exist as St-6770 and St-6870
You need to be careful as the first generation Dura ace Di2 is not compatible in any way with the new dura ace/ultegra e-tube di2 system.

More like $15 for a JC-41 junction box from Back Country. Def not worth the soldering pains.

as for the OP. If you want internal batteries, it can be connected to the JC-41 via an e-tube wire, simple as that. If you do external, then you need to have a battery mount as the interface btwn battery and JC-41.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [echappist] [ In reply to ]
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For the battery see this on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/...id=p3984.m1555.l2649
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [di2diy] [ In reply to ]
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Does anyone know if I could run a Di2 setup without a front derailleur or front shifter in the system (1x10 time trial setup)? I am pondering an aero or die setup and would like to use di2.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Pantelones] [ In reply to ]
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Yeah sure. Most def if you are running e-tube. You may have to use the special witing harness, which has connection for 4 shifters, if you run 7970.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Pantelones] [ In reply to ]
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No issue, if e tube u don't even need a brake shifter u can use a climbing remote. If 7970 you can use any momentary switch like cateye buttons.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [sodac] [ In reply to ]
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If you still have the broken shifters, I am interested but only to make light stoker grips for my tandem - you can strip the di2 functions from them if you want
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [BigBloke] [ In reply to ]
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Hello,

I am new here - you did great work!

Can anyone tell me, where I can buy the connectors of the Di2 cables? I would link to solder my individual cables. 20€ per cable is not that cheap...

Third party connectors are also welcome!


Best wishes,
Fränk
Last edited by: Fränk: Feb 15, 14 13:49
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [locutus] [ In reply to ]
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Hi Guys,


I need help in setting up 6770 di2 on my TT. Currently I have the complete 6770 road updgrade set. (SM-EW67AE, SM-JC41 and everything in the set)
So I only need the SW R671 L/R TT shifter right? And just plug it away on the EW67 junction?
I plan to sell the STI Shifter and get the 9071 brake lever w/ shifting. will it work too?


Thanks!
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [paulbanday] [ In reply to ]
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paulbanday wrote:
Hi Guys,


I need help in setting up 6770 di2 on my TT. Currently I have the complete 6770 road updgrade set. (SM-EW67AE, SM-JC41 and everything in the set)
So I only need the SW R671 L/R TT shifter right? And just plug it away on the EW67 junction?
I plan to sell the STI Shifter and get the 9071 brake lever w/ shifting. will it work too?


Thanks!

you need three more JC-41 splitter boxes in order to do what you want to do

the EW-67 comes with two cables going to the shifters; this is because the STI shifters don't come with cables. The R671 shifters do come with their own cables, so the only way you can interface things is using another JC-41 splitter (this works, btw; i run the same set up)

if you want to run shifters on the bullhorns, you'll need to do additional splitting from the first JC-41 splitter attached to the EW-67. There's an article on TriRig on how you can accomplish this
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [turboferret] [ In reply to ]
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Time to share my Di2 mods, now with TRIPLE changer positions.

My thanks to Turboferret (Rich) for his thoughts, shared in this thread and directly to me.

My Zipp Vuka bars have integrated levers, so I couldn't go with the Shimano lever option, plus I often climb with my hands on the pads, so fancied having access to switches from there too. By pulling the electronics out of the bar-end shifter I can now change the front and rear derailleurs from the aerobars, and can also change the rear from both the drops and, while climbing, from the elbow pads. As others have done, I used the Cateye Waterproof switches, under $15/pair from Performance Bike.

I removed the electronics from the RD changer and brought my own wires out of the circuit board. My plan had been to use a circuit-track pen to reach the centers of the circuit, and then mask those tracks, so as to still use the original switch mechanics, but that was unreliable, so I just took three wires out of the electronics unit before sealing it. Note that I took the common wire to one of the pins on the right, but could have used either of the larger pads adjacent to the switches.

I put the electronics inside the aerobar (as TurboFerret did) and put a couple of waterproof microswitches in the Rear-Changer-Housing. We both found this wasn't very waterproof. His solution may or may not involve a condom, mine involved removing the housing from another pair of Cateye switches, and placing them on a crafted piece of plastic. They function perfectly. I added extra insulating goop, this project needs plenty of that, plus zip-ties, soldering, heat-shrink sleeving, electrical tape, and creativity.

We both tried switches on the brake lever, and both migrated away from that. I prefer the switches better hidden, under the end of the base-bar, which is still very easy to press.

Next project - hiding the original Di2 battery in the downtube via the BB30 bottom bracket.









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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [BigBloke] [ In reply to ]
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Looks like a very smart job - I wish I'd thought to use the waterproof Cateye switches inside the aero shifters from the start, I might not have had such a miserable performance at the 70.3 World Champs in Vegas..... However, I learned so you didn't have to!

I might swap out my current switches sometime soon.

Interesting to see that you didn't bother with shifters for the front on the base bars - maybe you are better at planning your shifting than I have been in the past!

On the battery front, I've decided that my current battery and mount will get cannibalised and used on my new Di2 Alfine commuting bike, and I'll fit a proper internal seatpost-mounted battery in my Speed Concept.

Cheers, Rich
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [turboferret] [ In reply to ]
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turboferret wrote:
Interesting to see that you didn't bother with shifters for the front on the base bars - maybe you are better at planning your shifting than I have been in the past!

I thought about extending the front-changer switches too, but I rarely use them in races, plus despite our best efforts, there is an introduction of risk, which I'd like to minimise.

I received an IM from someone about what soldering iron I used. It was just a $20 Home-Depot-esque thing, nothing special. You can buy finer tips fairly cheaply. I did use a special fine-tipped iron when I was trying to solder wire onto the tracks that I'd laid (in an attempt to reuse the Shimano switch hardware), but as I said, I don't think that approach is worthwhile.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [locutus] [ In reply to ]
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I am really replying to the whole thread, since this seems to be the best thread on custom installations of Di2 on bikes that were not designed to take Di2. I have a Kestrel Talon Tri with Ultegra 6800 11s and like it so much that I would like to use for general riding in addition to triathlons, so I'm sure it 's no surprise to anyone that I want to upgrade to Di2 with minimum of ST-6871 base bar end shifters and SW-R671 aerobar end shifters

Constraints are: I want a clean internal battery installation, but don't want to drill or enlarge holes in frame. I am OK though with the cost of all Shimano stock parts and will save $ by DIY install.

Idea: I have read on this forum that the internal battery size is ~17mm diameter with length 160mm and given that my aerobars are ~19mm ID, my internal battery and JC41 junction will fit inside my aerobars, so that everything could be protected up top in area of stem and aerobars except for 2 wires running down to FD and RD. Those 2 wires could go through the down tube if the wire ends would fit through the mechanical shift cable holes but I don't think they will without modification so I am planning to tape them flush to the leading edge of the down tube. This way, the installation should be easy with no BB removal, I will maintain good aero properties, and the electrics should be well protected from weather. I think that the RD wire would be close to the 1400mm maximum wire length of the Shimano Di2 wires so it may place some constraint on the JC41 location.

I have not seen any mention of this approach on the thread or elsewhere, but I have not read all 1200+ posts to this thread either. Has anyone done this? Any comments or suggestions? Have I got something wrong here?
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Carl1949] [ In reply to ]
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Sorry for bringing this up again, I just have one quick question:

Looking to connect R671 to my bike with Di2 6700, and afaik I don't need a new junction box (replacing EW67-A with a 3-port), I can just connect the bar end shifters to my ST-6700 dual levers, like this?



Last edited by: kornfake: Jun 24, 14 0:03
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [kornfake] [ In reply to ]
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And another thing: how long is the cable? I'm worried it won't run the distance from top of my aero bar to the shifters.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [kornfake] [ In reply to ]
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Yes its as simple as that and the cable will be long enough unless your extensions are huge :-)
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