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Also, a link to the cateye buttons which are very popular for this application:
Since you are answering questions, and I have not seen this clearly in the thread, how did you manage the brake levers? It is not clear if
you deployed satellite shifters or not on the brakes. If so, could you post pics and provide a bit more detail? From the talk about simple
surface mount, it seems one could splice a shifter switch onto any pursuit/brake combo , such as my Vision setup.
I'm beginning to get enthused on this...
" I take my gear out of my car and put my bike together. Tourists and locals are watching from sidewalk cafes. Non-racers. The emptiness of of their lives shocks me. "
(opening lines from Tim Krabbe's The Rider , 1978
Yes, I have the vision levers also and mounted the switches on top and on the side ( so that the thumb can trigger down, finger trigger up). The good thing about these switches is that they are surface mount and small...and can be put any where youre willing to run them. I will take pictures and post soon.
Y6VE98010 right side
Y6VD98010 left side
I wonder when Shimano will start selling replacement parts. Of course, our discussion of this may force them to not sell any replacement parts.
The Di2 upgrade kit came on Friday (Euro 999). I resisted doing anything 'til 8pm Saturday and spent two-half hours putting the kit on my Planet X Stealth. I had to use external wiring and took my time but got it working with the STIs (dangling from the aero bars). The battery did mean I lost one of the bottle mounts (or have to use a tiny bottle). I can see the battery getting put in the seat post before too long.
Today I probably spent three hours then making it work with my bars. I couldn't get the cateye remotes in the UK (and the US shop still hasn't delivered) and so I went with a combination of: two momentary push buttons on each of the aero bars and an "(on) off (on)" toggle switch on each of the bull horns. I used some blue tack and tape to keep the toggle switches to front of the brake levers (after removing the rubber caps). To block up the holes in the aero bars I cut up a DVD case and drilled small holes in it for the push buttons.
I didn't bother undoing the torx screws in STI levers, just cut the wire and pulled the "black" box out. I then used three small junction boxes to connect the "up", "down" and ground wires. The "black" box and the junction boxes fit inside the aero tubes.
It rides well. The toggle switches (which go left/right) are intuitive when on the bull horns. The push buttons on the aero bars are less intuitive but I am sure that will come with time. The best bit so far was coming down a hill and turning left just after a parked car. I was on the bull horns and just changed from big to little chain ring, changed the cassette without worrying about getting my hands back to the ends of the aero bars. And the shifting has been good, even changing chainrings while pedalling hard up a hill.
As I have done everything in a bit of a rush, with cheap and ugly switches, I am going to take a bit of time riding it and then decide what switches I want, etc. Then I'll put on the new switches, new bar tape on and get rid of the junction boxes. Oh, and it needs to be more waterproof. I am sure it could handle a bit of rain at the moment but I wouldn't be confident about a long ride on a rainy day.
My spring project will then be to turn it into a "sequential" gear box (i.e. deciding when to move chain rings and cassette at the same time). The programming should be relatively straightforward - I've had a play with it in VBA - and the input/output hardware should be pretty easy and small. The issue then is getting a small microcomputer that will fit into one of the shifters with a battery. The Arduino Nano might just fit the bill (and there actually even smaller ones). Even if I can get it to work though, it would need to be reliable and robust enough to use in the rain. That's going to be the difficult bit.
Here's some photos. Remember, I am still at the "its ugly but works" stage.
But please, please, please can you and other people who may copy this idea read and take on board what I am about to say.
I flew RC Helicopters before Triathlon and saw the rise of Lipo batterys to the Hobby market.
These batterys have separate cells to make up one "Pack"
LiPo batteries should only be charged on a charger that is specifically compatible with LiPo batteries and some have a built-in cell balancer.
Unbalanced cells within a pack will reach full charge at different times, increasing the chances of one cell being overcharged and causing a fire.
Lithium polymer cells (Lipo) can swell and expand when shorted, charged incorrectly, overcharged, overdischarged, heated, punctured, dropped, kicked, or otherwise mistreated. And the results can be catastrophic as this can also cause fires
LiPo batteries should only be used in conjunction with a low-voltage cutoff or alarm to prevent the pack from being discharged too far (Fire again)
Also never store a LiPo battery at full charge LiPo batteries should be stored with a percentage of its total capacity, usually around 50%. Refer to your battery’s instructions on storing the battery safely
Treated properly Lipo batterys are safe and powerfull
When I was flying RC Helis I have seen Lipo fires 1st hand and they are scary, no warning and the things are in flames and belive me they burn.....really burn !!
But hey at the end of the day it may never happen to you and it is your bike after all treat them right and it won't IMO and it's likly not just mine, I wouldn't "hide" one in my pride and joys frame and charge it with any old charger and if for some reason I did (and I wouldn't) the bike would not come in the house it would stay at the bottom of the garden !
If you think however I am taking $hit google lipo battery dangers
(No disrespect to you great job + thread, just making you aware of some potential dangers)
Then I joined the wires to my new switches using blocks like this:
I cut the connector blocks into six separate one to make it easier to fit inside the aero bars. Each side (left: chainring, right: cassette) has three blocks (up, down, ground) and I put the end of each of the three "black box" wires into the end of one of the connectors (and screwed it in). Then I screwed in the wires from the two switches (aero bar and bull horn) to the other side of the connector block. So if you look at the connector block, one side has one wire going in (from the "black box") and the other side will have two, three or four wires coming out (two "ups", two "downs" and 2, 3 or 4 grounds, depending on the type of switches you use).
Using connector blocks adds weight, makes things a little harder to waterproof and stuff but makes it very easy to change switches, swap the "up" one for the "down" one, etc. Once I am happy with my switches and set up I will just join the wires direct and get rid of the connector blocks.
Out of interest, I think I like the toggle switches compared with the momentary switches. A few times I have tried to "toggle" the momentary switches on the aero bars and so that is something I might change.
Thanks Carlton. That is the last bit I needed to get mine set up.