Hi Ziv,

I can't see your image, but it sounds like the right adapter: 46 mm is the frame inside diameter. 79 mm is the frame shell width. 24 mm is your crank's spindle outside diameter.

Edited to add: Be sure to follow the BBright Press Fit Installation instructions exactly. Instructions are in a PDF which is linked at the bottom of the BBright.net home page, http://bbright.net/. Here is a direct link: http://bbright.net/...Fit-Instructions.pdf

The Rotor adapter won't work with your FSA crank. It's for Shimano and compatible 24 mm cranks. FSA uses 24 "plus" some tolerance; everyone else uses 24 "minus" some tolerance. Your FSA crank won't go through Rotor's bearings.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Dear Damon,

Thank you once again for your kind answers.

Last but not least question - I was wondering what will be your advice from aero perspective regarding the best solution for carting tubular spare tire on the P5. On my P5 I will install front BTA bottle and one rear bottle. I use to ride with tow rear bottles and use one if them to carry my tubular, but I think there will be an aero disadvantage to ride with 2 rear bottles instead of one - am I right? Is it a big difference? Where should you advice me to carry the extra tubular tire?

---

Ziv Sade
IronMan Age Grouper & Endurance Athlete

Hi Ziv,

Two bottles, one with your spare, could be a good solution. We tested a range of bottle positons, a wrote it up in this article: "Hydration and Aerodynamics" in the Ask the Engineers section of our web site.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Damon,

Hi...

Quick question...i have a spare seat post for my P5...want try out a new saddle (without removing my previous saddle & clamp from the other post)...

On the spare post....i have the sliding adjustable bracket (the bit that attaches to the top of the post with 2 allen key bolts but not the clamp & bits.

I've already read somewhere it's a Ritchey (?) clamp & mount but does that kit include the inner part of the clamp/the flexible rubber square that fits inside?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/...CZmfJMtL._SY300_.jpg

Ps neither saddle is carbon railed.

PPS Can you buy risers for the Aduro arm pads when on high mount setting?

PPPS Do you know how much the retro purchase cost of P5/6 fork cost is?

Any ideas?

Thanks

Ben

Hi Ben,

Sounds like you're looking forward to some tweaking!

Yep, the P5 (and new P3 and new P2, which share the same seat post) uses a Ritchey head. So if you can get Ritchey clamp and bits, they should clamp onto your sliding adjustable bracket perfectly. I assume the right Ritchey kit would include those parts, but check with the place where you're sourcing the clamp kit to be sure.


This clamp has all the parts you need.


This kit doesn't; it's meant to adapt your clamp for different rail dimensions (e.g. carbon rails).

Cervelo doesn't sell risers for the Aduro, but your Cervelo retailer can. If they don't have them in stock, they can source them from 3T, Vision, Zipp, probably others. The two bolts are 25 mm apart, so any spacer that fits that will fit your Aduro arm pads.

No idea on pricing for the fork kit; check with your Cervelo retailer to be sure.

Have fun,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Totally silly question, but where can I find the serial number on my frame?

Hi denali2001,

The P5 serial number is on a sticker, under the bottom bracket, on the left side, probably covered by the rear brake cover. Might also be on your purchase paperwork.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Amo.P5,

I was interested in these photos (sorry I know they were posted awhile ago). It's a little hard to tell from the photos - but what have you used for the shifters which are attached to each of the brake levers? They look relatively minimal compared to attaching the entire Shimano shifter to the lever (whether climbing shifter, brake lever shifter or aerobar shifter - they're all pretty bulky). I know the cateye remote button solder option is a popular one, but the cateye button look seems kinda cheap, so just looking out for other options. Thanks for any advice!

Thanks for clearing that up but even on the Ritchey website they don't seem to stock the part & can't find an online re-seller either?

Thanks for the riser tip....it might save me buying a fork!

Ref clamp....you saying time I contacted local cervelo dealer?

Hi Ceril,

I hope the risers work out for you. Sure beats buying a new fork!

Yep, for the Ritchey saddle rail clamp parts, see your Cervelo retailer. Again, Cervelo don`t sell them, but they can source them from other suppliers.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Damon,

Quick question for you -- I have a P5-3 and the rear brakes are problematic in the sense that they sometimes "lock up" and stay engaged, even after i release. If not the Magura RT-6 or RT-8, what other rear brake calipers/systems will work with a P5? and which would you recommend?

Rico

Rico,

Not sure if your issue is the same as mine, but my Magura brakes were getting stuck on the cover. I added little washers/spacers and that solved the problem.

Best wishes,

---

David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

What brakes and levers are on it?

On my wife's new p3 I went with dura ace levers since they have a return spring.

That helped overcome the cable friction.

Triomega is a solid and aero brake if you don't want hydraulic. They did a review putting them on a P5.

The maguras are awesome though.

Hi RIco,

I asked Jakub, ace customer service rep here at Cervelo. He suggested it might be possible the spring has jumped out of position. This is most likely when the brake arms are open a lot (legs are closed a lot). This can happen with a narrow rim, and small or no brake shoe washers.


In the "Good" photo you can see the spring is on the smooth brake body, not on the threads.


In the "Bad" photo you can see, when the arms are opened a lot (legs closed a lot), the spring can jump out of place, onto the threads.

Is this perhaps what you're experiencing?

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hello Damon

I just bought a P5 six and was wondering if you had any data as to which of the following 2 front wheels, which I already own, would match up better aerodynamically with the P5 six. a Specialized/HED Tri-spoke or Bontrager Aeolus D9. Both are clinchers. Thanks!

---

Jerry

Hi, thanrah,
Thank you for your interest in my bike configuration.
These shifers are internal core parts of SWR600.
Please refer to the following picture which shows to take SWR600 to pieces,
http://ameblo.jp/...066-12236679774.html
Naturally, they are very easy to install Di2 system.

ok thank you for sharing! given the cable is so short, how did you run that back to the junction box?

Would you happen to have a close-up of it stuck to the magura brake lever? - given you removed the shifter buttons, what do you push to shift?

Many thanks, Tom


PM me is easier

Hi dad,

We've tested a few different wheels in the P5, and it's designed to work well with a variety of wheels. We've not tested those two wheels specifically, but trends show a wheel that's faster alone is also faster in the P5.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Guys (and Damon), thanks -- yes my issue is that my Magura brakes were getting stuck on the cover. My bike mechanic removed the cover. I'll try it out. -- Thanks

Hi, thanrah,

Sorry, I mistook replying.
Di2 cable shape is compatible with MCX standard.
Then, I used
MCX male-male terminal,
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/will-be-mart/mcxm-mcxm/
and
SHIMANO ULTEGRA electric cable like EW-SD50-300mm,
http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/...e/ew-sd50-300mm.html
Don't forget fixing MCX male terminal and Di2 electric cable (female) because MCX male-male terminal doesn't have latches .
I used heat-shrinkable tubing for fixing.

My P5 is currently cabled and I am thinking of switching to Di2. The latest version of Di2 looks pretty straightforward, has anybody had experience of installing without pulling the bottom bracket? If it can be done that way I'll be able to install myself rather than pay the LBS.

Any tips or tricks for the install? I'll be looking to put the 3 port junction box in the stem. I have two types of plastic insert for the rear derailleur, the one currently installed which lets the mechanical cable pass through and another with a smaller hole. I presume this is the one for the e-tube? It looks like you don't need a gromit for the front derailleur exit port, is that right?

I had to pull my bottom bracket to run the hydraulic hose, you maybe able to tape the di2 cable to the existing shifter cable or housing and pull the di2 cable down around the bb. The BB sit very firmly on the P5. I was beginning to wonder if the runner mallet and proper park tool was going to be enough to get it out. I would leave a zip tie around the cable to keep it from vibrating. There is decent service manual on cervelos website for all the steps.

I did not have to pull my bb to install Di2. There is plenty of room to run cables and the junction box without removing the bb.

Hello Damon,

I just got my medium P5 only to realize that it came with a compact crank and the largest rotor Q ring that is available is a 53 which won't work as I need a 54-55/44. Can you tell me which cranks and in particular BB standard will work correctly without having to change out the bearings? Exactly what specs do I need to look for in axle diameter and length? I know the topic has been asked before but it seems that there is differing opinions.

Thanks for your assistance

---

Jerry