Gotcha. I was wondering if your P4 was functional or maybe for sale.

About top tube packs, yeah, with your P5-three, you got the benefit of those sleek Cervelo top tube storage bosses. And, while we'd love to get your business, you could actually modify your old Speedpack 480 to bolt mount on your new P5. Just cut the straps off right at their bases, get some bolts and washers (metric M5 bolts, we use some ~20 mm long, if needed, we've got bolts kits for sale on our site), cut some tiny round holes (holes should be smaller then the bolt diameter) din the rubberized bottom right where the holes are in the plastic insert, and you'll be good to go. But if you upgrade, there is always the 483D ... :^)

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Hi YTZ,

We designed the rear brake cover to reduce aero drag, but our wind tunnel testing couldn't find a difference, so one option is to leave the cover off.

Another option is to grind a bit from the inside of the cover, to add a few millimeters clearance wherever there's interference.

Another option is to change to a different brake, such as the Magura RT or TriRig.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Murphy'sLaw,

Eric already mentioned it - behind the seat is good. Various options there, of course.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks Damon for the quick reply and good info!

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--------------------------------------------------
Non-Swimming Duathlete

Minoura BTS bottle holder bracket thingy.... except that instead of bolting it on to the saddle rails as designed, I zip tied it to my saddle after popping out the Fizik Arione Tri 2 saddle bag or light attachment thing. FWIW, it *won't* work as pictured in this marketing photo on eBay.

I also use a Minoura CO2 cartridge holder between the cage and the bracket as well.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Damon,

where can I get an XLow kit for my Aduro bars? For educational purposes only, testing in the wind tunnel or velodrome, etc.

thanks,
Eric

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

I bought one from a fellow slowtwitcher who wasn't using it.

what were the issues and what are you doing to mitigate them?

thanks,
Eric

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

As I recall the mounting screws/threaded inserts were pulling out. I don't want to advocate a particular work around for the problem out of concern that someone will hold me responsible for a subsequent failure (I'm not an engineer but the solution to me seemed pretty straight forward and obvious leading me to think that 3T and Cervelo did not want to devote time/resources for the fix given the small number of people who used the x-low).

OK cool, send me your paypal

= )

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

This may not be Damon/Cervelo approved, but the brake cover fit can be very tight. If you are 'comfortable' with it, we filed a couple of mm off of the nub that is on the brake. That solved it. Damon may have alluded to that as well.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Have you considered making the zipper go all the way to the end of the bentobox away from the stem and/or making the zipper not go all the way down to the top tube near the stem? Just wondering.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Will try that thanks

Good questions. Short answer: yes, we have.

But we wanted to make storage packs that were radically different than anything else on the market. Most other bento packs have the approx profile of a brick. Or, some of the "aero" ones have the profile of a brick with a flattened end (i.e., the bag looks kinda aero from the side, but looks like a big 'ol rectangle from the top). We wanted to do far more with the shape of our Speedpacks. In addition to using a true NACA airfoil for the pack body, we taper our Speedpacks in 3 dimensions, not just 2. That's why the tail ends of the Speedpacks' sides curve and meet essentially at a point. To get 2-dimensional fabric to do that took some design effort. But running the zipper all the way to the tail would negate some of the 3D aero shape, so we decided to run the zipper to just about 1" short of the tail. Side benefit: keeps small things from flying out of the pack at speed.

About the zipper running all the way to the front, that is not directly essential to our pack shape. However, we use an insert that is higher quality, stiffer, and one that has a far more complex shape than that of the other Asian-sourced bags on the market. But to get this advanced shape insert into our Speedpacks, that requires a decent sized opening. Hence, we run the US-made YKK zipper as far forward as possible. Side benefit: bigger opening than competing packs, easy to get your stuff. Plus, insert is super easy to remove for cleaning.

These are just some of things you can do when you both design and manufacture your own products.

Greg @ dsw

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
--

Took the tri rig off the front and placed it on the rear, was able to use plastic cover. Also needed to run brake housing all the way to brake from lever.

Yep, that's correct. Good to hear your set to go now!

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Damon,
heading out for ride today I noticed that the plastic piece right in front of the rear brake that mounts into the lower side of the bottom bracket is loose and hanging open. I don't mean the brake cover (which I tossed long ago), I mean the thicker insert piece that is mounted by two screws. The rear screw is there, but the forward fastener is missing and thus it hangs open and captures debris and drag. Before I guess wrong and booger up the threads could you kindly tell me what type and size fastener that is in the front position so I can get her back in line? Many thanks in advance.
Ron

I actually also found the same as FortyishForever the other day. It seems like I'm missing a screw or something since the piece (cable holder part beneath BB) is only fastened by one screw and has a bit of gap between it and the frame.

Am I missing something and if so what am I missing?

Hi Fortyish, hi MTM,

You might be talking about the BB cable guide, shown in Padraig's excellent photo here:



The forward hole is simply a cable housing stop in case the TRP rear brake is used. There's no screw to attach there, and there are no threads to attach it by anyway.

If you have mechanical shifting, the cables (shown above) keep the guide flush with the frame; the retaining screw only holds it in place when there are no cables.

If you have electronic shifting, then the cable guide isn't needed, and can be removed. Saves a few grams as well. ;-)

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks Damon,
yes that's exactly what I'm talking about. Good thing I didn't drive myself nuts trying to drive a screw in there. I wonder why the leading edge hangs open even though the trailing screw is tight and in place. Anyway since I have electronic shifting I guess I'll just remove it, but just imagine the massive aero drag the pocket will create! :-)
Ron

I have the chance to score a deal on a p5-6. Will this 54 P5 fit me?

Currently I'm riding a p2 with a pad stack height from the floor of 930mm. I am getting to the point where I was about to drop a spacer to get a little lower. Then I came across the p5. Here's a pic of my bike.



The seller has had the steerer tube cut with 2 spacers left and the low mount. His measurement to the floor is 870mm. He said with the the high mount that would raise w up 60mm to a total of 930mm, which is right where I'm at. So will this bike for me. I'm not too worried about the other settings on the bike as it's pretty adjustable. I just know that the stack height needs to be right to ensure I don't have to buy a new fork. Here is a pic of his set up.

Is there any other information I need for you?

Hi Eric,

Might be a great oportunity! You're right to compare arm pad position, since the extensions and saddle are more adjustable, as you mentioned.


Yes, subtract the bottom bracket height from each bike to get Arm Pad Stack. Next, measure Arm Pad Reach. Simple instructions are in the PDF for P5 bike dimensions, linked at the bottom of the P5 web page on cervelo.com: http://www.cervelo.com/...kes/p-series/p5.html.

Then enter the table (last page of the PDF) with your arm pad stack & reach to find whether that P5 can get there for you.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks Damon so much. I'll have the seller work on that. In the meantime does the arithmetic we did match with yours regarding spacer height with what's existing on my p2?

the two bikes have different bb drop, so as damon said measure from there

Damon,

It looks like we'd be ok. Here is my RETUL fitting report. I just bumped my saddle back a little bit yesterday so you'll know why there's such a discrepancy between the RETUL and my measurement I just took.

So in the chart, does the high V mount include spacers or zero?