The only other thing that I can think of, and it has happened to use when traveling and rebuilding the bikes, is that one of the bearings is not fully set into the frame. That has happened a couple of times. But, if you've messed with it, that should have been apparent.

Yes, the spacers are a bit larger in diameter than the bearings. Or at least where the bearing fits into the spacer.

Just make sure everything is lined up properly from the bar to the spacers to the bearing. You might also take any of the small screws that might help line things up out and see if that solves it. Everything does have to fit just right.

Hopefully Damon will chime in.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Hi Jnags7,

Good advice from Brandon (thanks Brandon!).

Another thing to check: sounds like you might be missing the split cone compression ring in the top bearing.



The split ring is on the right in the photo above. Often it's anodized blue.



In this photo the split ring is shown, installed correctly, in the left bearing.

Just as a check list, the headset parts you need are, from bottom up:

• fork (includes integrated crown race)
• lower bearing
• frame
• upper bearing
• split ring
• spacers
• stem
• top cap & bolt

It's the split ring I think sounds like it could be missing. Occasionally it gets stuck to the Cane Creek spacer cone you took off. (A little grease can make it stick.) Also, some newer Cane Creek spacer cones have the split ring attached (snapped into a receptacle so it doesn't get lost). If that's the case, your Cervelo retailer should have a spare split ring for a few bucks if need be.

Just to be clear, there should be no modifications needed to the spacers to get the headset adjusted. (Good idea you Dremelled the slots to slip them over the cable/hose though!)

Hope that helps,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Its the split ring. It may be in the other headset or I'll have to buy a new one. And pictures are always worth a thousand words. Thanks for the help.

Glad to hear it! Have fun, -Damon

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Damon,
I currently have a BBRite to 24mm adapter on my P5. I am looking at the new SRM with user changeable batteries, (finally!) but it's a BB386 crank, which has a 30mm spindle. Should the Adapter be removed and the BBRITE bearings put back in? How would I make this work?

Thanks as always!
Ben

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

hi Damon,

just wanted to post this from here from another thread... my workaround for additional reach for a P5 w/ Aduro bars especially since x-low kits are no longer available.

More pictures at http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=5016356#5016356

interested to hear your thoughts.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Hi Ben,

Officially, BB386 doesn't work with BBright. If the BB386 spindle were 2mm longer on the left it would. Currently the BB386 axle could *just* fit in a BBright frame, but then there's no space for the wave washer, which is why we'd want the extra two millimeters. The wave washer is needed to preload the bearings and take up normal variations in manufacturing dimensions.

Unofficially, it should work in either of two ways:

1. Assemble it without a wave washer, and adjust bearing preload by changing spacers. If preload is too high, subtract spacer length (thin the spacer on the right, e.g. by filing). If bearing preload is too low, add spacer length (add very thin shims, either left or right). A careful, patient mechanic can easily do this well.

2. Use a 2 mm smaller spacer on the right (say, 7 mm instead of 9 mm), and fill the resulting 2 mm gap by installing the wave washer on the right side of the frame. One potential issue with putting the wave washer on the right could be a floating chain line. But if you think about it, the wave washer anywhere (left or right) would have the same issue. But in practice, with the wave washer on the left, the crank doesn't float and the chain line is constant. So the same should hold with the wave washer on the right. We're testing this but don't yet have an official result.

Hope that helps,

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Eric,

Very creative thinking! Finding the diagonal that matches twice the bolt spacing is genius.

Officially, I have to tell you we've not tested for cantilever loads like this, so we don't know whether it's safe or not. Please be careful!

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Damon,
Thanks for the response, long story short, don't bother with BB386.

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Yep, that's the official answer. ;-)

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Guys; is there a list of parts i need to upgrade my p5 from sram to di2; also do i get it correctly only difference between ultegra and dura ace is : weight of the crank - which i wont change plus inability to program the shifting buttons?

Any idea whether the new wider tri-spoke HED GT3 will fit the P5 Three with Magura RT6? I currently have a 24 mm wide rim in the front and find that there is little room left after removing spacer washers (save for the required ones). Do you have to bleed the brakes to open them up more?

plenty of us run 24.73mm wide zipps already without issue

Yes, I know. But the GT3 is 26.5 mm wide. That's significantly wider than the Zipps.

I admit I did not pay enough attention to that, as it is a tubular and my interest level is next to nothing at this point

that being said......I run a zipp super 9 CC which is 26.46mm at center of brake track without issue

Just decided to get a P5 Six VWD and noticed that even handling the matt frame finger marks appear all over it then I noticed these comments. Are many folks going down the clear coat route? Seems a shame as the matt looks cool but I like to keep my bikes nice and clean and I'm thinking this is going to be a pain the ass!
Thanks

I just clean mine with GT85 on a rag, comes up a nice satin sheen.

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If you are sure you will fail, or convinced you will succeed, you are probably right.....

Oil eater from Costco works wonders, I use it diluted.

Thanks, will give it a try

Damon I'm trying to squeeze the last couple MM's out of my position. Is it acceptable to remove all spacers including the "half spacer" between the frame and the headset. Essentially going with zero spacers.

Hi jsamples53,

Yep, zero spacers is fine.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Damon,

Can't find the torque setting in the manual for a seat post rear mount X-Lab Delta Sonic and for the top tube DSW 483d bag. Also, the DSW 483D bag came with the bolts, should I use the one that came with the bag or the one that were pre- installed in the P5?

Hi Tarochi,

Nice set up!

Please check with X-Lab for their recommended torque. For the top tube bag, any M5 threaded bolts that are long enough (at least 5 turns of thread engagement) are okay. Maximum torque 3 N*m.

Enjoy,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

I agree with Damon's response but want to offer more info. Definitely follow the directions that came with your 483D. And we also suggest that you use our bolts because, like the stock Cervelo bolts, they are also light AL alloy, plus we made sure that they will be long enough to correctly secure the Speedpack (including the pack's insert and the required washer set) to the frame's riv-nuts.

Greg @ dsw

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Damon
Have you seen any elegant techniques for cutting slots in Aduro stem spacers so one can easily change stack? Going to wind tunnel and would like to be able to easily test a few positions.
Cheers
Rob