Hi Erik,

Retul output, even better!

I read your stack height as near enough to 650, which happens to be the example row on our PDF.

So arm pad reach is next: I see someone already added a few centimeters to get from the back edge (Retul's convention) to the middle of the arm pad (Cervelo and others convention). The P5 pads are bigger than some, so I'll add 45 millimeters to get APR of about 483.

This puts you smack in the range covered by the 54 cm P5 with a High V bar, as you mentioned.

To your question: The bottom row in that box is with no spacers; every row above it is with 5 more millimeters of spacers. To reach your APS you'll have 25 mm. These spacers can be below the stem, or below the pads, or a mix.

The photo shows what looks like 15 mm below the stem, so throw in a centimeter below the pads and you have a winner. And ou're even thinking of going down a centimeter, which would make it a very simple swap.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks for the post Damon. This is why I own cervelos. So in your professional opinion I can go through with the purchase, and the bike will fit me as she is without having to purchase a new fork?

I apologize having to ask for Lehman's answer. I don't fully understand all these measurements and how it applies to me.

Hi Erik,

From what we've discussed, yep, should fit as you expect!

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks for all the help Damon. I'll be sure to post pictures here once it's done!!!

Damon, I have an S5 and the seat post keeps slipping. Torqued to 5, I have used carbon paste on the seat post, any other ideas?

This is timely as I just had this issue too. Torqued to 5 and carbon paste. The only thing other thing I did was making sure the 2 bolts were evenly screwed in as much as possible. Didn't slip today but I was just on the trainer. I'll have to take it outside again to see if the rougher ride causes it to slip

For some seat posts, I have had to use lube on clean bolts and threads in the past.
This ensures the torque is correct. I use 4-4.5 nm though. Some shops use loctite which gums up the theads and limits the actual tightening force, as will any grime.

Hi YTZ,

Great bike! Sorry to hear your post is slipping. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Clean the frame and post with alcohol or acetone. Use a clean towel or cloth and scrub with fresh solvent until the towel comes away without any residue.
2. Apply Tacx Dynamic Carbon Assembly paste between the parts that shouldn't move: post & frame and the outer surfaces of the clamp.
3. Apply grease between the parts that should move: the ramp inside the clamp, the threads and end of the M8 set screw (the one that takes a 4 mm hex key).
4. Apply one drop of LocTite to the threads on the tiny screw that holds the clamp pieces together.
5. Check that this screw is not too tight: the clamp parts should be free to slide on the ramp.
6. Tighten to specified torque.

Most people get most of these steps right. If you're having trouble keeping the post in place it doesn't hurt to go back and check each of them one more time just to be sure. Steps 1, 3, 4 and 5 are often overlooked.

If it still slips then please have your Cervelo retailer get in touch with our Customer Service team.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi qngo01,


Please have a look at my reply to YTZ above.


Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Damon,

I just got a new P5-6 and I'm loving the ride so far but lately the headset has been coming loose hence there's a play when applying the front break or rocking it back and forth with brake applied. Tried to remedy it by inserting a 2mm spacer under the top cap to make sure the bearings are being preloaded when tightening the bolt but the play would come back when I rock it back and forth.

Hi iron,

One of the "Simply" parts of the P5 (from the theme "Simply Faster") is that it uses a completely stock headset. Our CFD analysis (and wind tunnel confirmed) that a wider head tube (as long as the shape is right) has no drag penalty, so we avoided proprietary stem and headset parts in favour of simple parts availability and maintenance.

So, troubleshooting the P5 headset is the same as any normal bike. Lots of potential adjustments and checks, but they're all standard procedures.

Can you be very specific about the symptoms and what you've checked, or maybe have your local Cervelo retailer take a look? It's probably something simple.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

If I press the front brake only, I can feel a play coming from the headset. It seems like the top cap is bottoming out on top of the steered tube hence limiting the ability to preloadte bearings. What's the recommended gap between the steer tube and iupper edge of stem? I added a 2mm spacer and it didn't solve it. Do I need to add more? Maybe taking a picture will help.

Hi iron,

Agree, if tightening the top cap bottoms it on the steerer, sounds like the steerer might be a bit long.

1. Adding spacer(s) is a great way to take up the gap.
2. Cutting the steerer a few millimetres shorter also works. Check to be sure before cutting. ;-)

The Aduro stem can sit directly on the headset, no spacers are required.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Are the top cap and spacers needed once the bearing is preloaded and the stem pinch bolts are tightened? Reason I ask is because the black plate cover won't fully close.

I can also just have my LBS cut down the steerer tube a bit more.

Hi iron,

Yes. In fatigue testing, the stem gradually moves up the steerer without them.

Having your Cervelo retailer trim the fork sounds like a good idea.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks for the quick replies!

Hi Damon,

First of all, sorry for my poor English.

Maybe you can help me with an issue on my Magura TT8 brake lever. I tight too much the bolt in the right brake lever and the bolt is now behind the central part of the lever. I can't get it anymore and I also can't open the lever anymore.

I don't now if you understand what I mean, but I don't have the right specific English words to describe my issue…

Hope you can help me
Denis

Hi Terrapon,

I understand what you mean. Maybe download the workshop manual (in any language you like) from Magura's web site:
http://www.magura.com/...-tt-2/allgemein.html

The bolt you're describing is called the "pressure point adjusting screw" (diagram H1). It also functions as the piston rod for the master cylinder, so it has pressure on it.

The easiest way I know to thread it back into the lever, is to drain some oil to relieve pressure from the bolt, then it's possible to align the threads and screw it back in. Then follow the normal procedure to replace the oil and bleed the brakes.

Good luck,

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

It appears that the right side bolt that holds the seat post, has pulled the threaded insert out of the frame. Is this normal?

Hi D.K.,

Nope. Please get in touch with your Cervelo retailer to start an RMA.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Damon, just a quick update regarding the loose headset. LBS has confirmed that the aluminum sleeve has come unglued so it was sticking above the steerer tube. What can cause this issue, over-tightening the top cap or not letting the epoxy cure properly?

Hi ironman23,

Yep, a disbonded sleeve would certainly do it. Good diagnosis by your shop. Luckily the fix is simple: rebond it.

We use the bonded in sleeve because it's very light (ligher than most expander plugs), strengthens the fork against clamping and bending loads that come from the stem, and is simple and reliable to use when installed correctly. Your shop can easily re-bond your insert and it'll be good as new.

The following details are for whoever is rebonding the insert, and might be interesting in general to anyone who's interested in this kind of thing.

Bonding failure analysis is pretty easy on a basic level. There are two choices: epoxy failure, or adhesion failure. First, if the two parts (fork and insert) both have epoxy stuck on them, and the epoxy has failed, then the load exceeded the strength of the epoxy. Second, if the epoxy is all (or mostly) stuck to one part, then the adhesion to the bare (or mostly bare) part has failed.

Working with epoxy is like following a recipe, so the fix is to rebond it, following the directions (recipe) very carefully.

For the first failure mode, epoxy failure, look closely at mixing proportions, thorough mixing, etc. Epoxy is not like polyester resin, which is a chain reaction - mix a little hardener in and it kicks off a chain reaction which cures the whole batch. Instead, epoxy is an additive reaction: every "A" molecule must combine with its it's corresponding "B" molecule. That means you have to mix A and B ingredients thoroughly, so each "A" has a chance to meet its "B."

In the case of adhesion failure, look closely at the surface prep: surface roughness and cleanliness. The roughness of the fork and insert are good as delivered (machined and sandblasted, respectively), so usually cleanliness is the issue. Dust from sawing, oils from fingers, etc. can prevent complete adhesion. To clean the fork, use the included alcohol wipe to clean inside the steerer; keep wiping until it comes out clean. To keep the insert clean, follow the instructions on how to use the plastic wrapper to handle the insert in order to avoid touching it with fingers, which can transfer skin oils to the insert's surface. Or wear gloves, etc.

Since your insert has already been bonded and come loose, take it out, and clean it (and the fork) well with a good solvent (alcohol or acetone, etc.). It's not necessary to remove epoxy that's well-adhered. Then bond it back in again following the instructions. Any two-part bonding epoxy is good for this job. There are several good brands available at typical hardware stores, typically 5-minute epoxies in dual syringe dispensers.

Here's a link to the fork manual, including specific instructions on bonding:
http://www.cervelo.com/...7-908a4aa9c091-0.pdf

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Dear Damon

I have an FSA SL-K cranck with Quarq power meter on it - which adaptor do I need to install it on the P5?

---

Ziv Sade
IronMan Age Grouper & Endurance Athlete

Hi zivsade,


There are three versions of the SL-K crank you might have: MegaExo, BB30 kor BB386.



MegaExo
If your FSA SL-K crank has a 24 mm spindle (MegaExo), you need the this FSA bottom bracket: http://www.fullspeedahead.com/.../773/BBRIGHT-ADAPTER



"BBRIGHT ADAPTER 200-3205" Allows the installation of FSA Ø24mm spindle MegaExo cranksets into BBright bottom bracket shells with a 46mm inner diameter.

Be sure to follow the BBright Press Fit Installation instructions exactly. Instructions are in a PDF which is linked at the bottom of the BBright.net home page, http://bbright.net/. Here is a direct link: http://bbright.net/...Fit-Instructions.pdf

BB30
If your FSA SL-K crank has a 30 mm spindle (BB30), it won't fit in BBright frames like your P5 - the spindle is about 11 mm too short and won't reach through the BBright bottom bracket.

BB386
Not sure if Quarq ever connected a power meter to a BB386 SL-K, but if they did (and you have one!), then you need this FSA BB: http://www.fullspeedahead.com/...cts/765/ROAD-BB-PF30

"ROAD BB-PF30" ...but substitute FSA's thinner (1 mm) bearing seals in place of the pictured stock seals (2 mm thick).


...plus half of FSA's adapter for BB30 (just use one of the spacers, on the drive side): http://www.fullspeedahead.com/...69/BB386--30-ADAPTER



"BB386 / 30 ADAPTER"


Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Dear Damon,

Thank you for your help - I will order the adaptor you mentioned - I have the FSA MegaExo. When looking online to order the adaptor you mentioned, beside the FSA website, all the other sites sell this adaptor - the FSA PF46-79-24 - is it the same?



In the meantime do you think my FSA will fit on a 24mm Rotor adaptor?

---

Ziv Sade
IronMan Age Grouper & Endurance Athlete