Damon,

I'm trying to get my ducks in a row for purchasing and installing 11-speed Ultegra 6870 Di2 in my 10-speed 2013 Red-equipped P5. I've looked at the manual on the Cervelo web site, but I still have some lingering questions.

Is there any changes to the P5 frames required to accommodate 9070/6870 series Di2? In particular, I'm wondering about the 5-port E-tube connection (SM-EW90-B). I don't know whether there is a size difference in that cockpit junction from the first-gen Di2 and this current iteration.

How is the internal routing junction (SM-JC41) intended to be attached inside the frame? Hot glue gun? ;)

What battery mount do I use? I assume I use the standard SM-BTR1 battery, but all I have is a plastic housing in my hidden pocket that obviously isn't the battery mount.

If you have a Di2 quick-reference build guide, do you have any particular wiring harness lengths you use for a 51cm P5 frame? Not having the bits and pieces available to study makes it difficult to visualize what I need to build it right the first time!

Regards,
Dave

I hide my 5 port control box inside the stem, it's tight but fits fine.

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If you are sure you will fail, or convinced you will succeed, you are probably right.....

Hi Dave,

Nice set up! You're right to learn before building. ;-)

Crash Master has the best junction box location.

The best-fit battery is the original Di2 battery; it goes in the plastic tray, clip facing aft; the wire clips into the slot in the edge.

For you other questions, can you phone Cervelo customer service? I'm out of the office for the next two weeks, and those are the guys I'd be asking anyway. Here's the phone number: +1 (416) 425-9517. I think it might be option 3, but listen closely as our menu options might have changed. ;-)

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Tarochi,

For the cage bolts we recommend 23 in-lb of torque. For the rod entering the seatpost we recommend 30 in-lb. You can find the instructions that state these torque settings here

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CEO
XLAB - Aerodynamic Triathlon Accessories
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Hello Damon and everyone.

I'm riding a P5-six with Di2 9070 and want to have shifting possibilities for the rear derailleur on the hoods. I have seen bike with the climbing shifters but doesn't look very clean, seems to be bulky and needs (as far as I can see) to be modified to have enough cable length. So I was wondering if this solution would work :

To buy a pair of ST-9071 brake-levers and shifters with a friend in the same case.
Both of us would use only one and left the Magura Brakelever for front braking.
We both would use an Omega TriRig for the left brakes.
One would use the right 9071 "normally".
The other would inverse his front brake lever (Magura) on the right hood (UK style) and put the left 9071 and reprogram it with the PCE1 interface to shift for the 11 cassette not the 2 chainring.

1) Would this solution work ?
2) Is the 9071 left brake-lever reprogrammable this way ?
3) Would the routing of a magura front brake cable be possible in the Aduro coming from a right front brake cable ?
4) Would the mechanical cable routing be possible in the stem coming a left brake lever ?
5) Do you confirm that the TriRig fits in the cover ?
6) Did anyone tried it and if so, what are his impressions (brake power and adjustement between differents rim widths ?

Many thanks in advance for any informations about this idea.

Seems like a lot of work. You and your friend could buy a set of R671 bar end shifters and then "hack" Cateye buttons onto the circuit boards. I and numerous others have done this successfully. It is a simple and elegant solution that allows you to continue to use your Magura brakes. The following link describes the process using the 9070 brake/shifter. I used the R671 to harvest the circuit board. It is much cheaper and you achieve the same result.

.http://forum.slowtwitch.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Thanks Ludiaw !

For me hacking (soldering, gluing etc...) is far more difficult than routing a cable and installing a brake but I notice your advice. About the price, as I already own a TriRig Omega, it is cheaper for me to buy a single ST9071 (the other would be bought by my buddy) than buying a pair of R671 and I am not a big fan of Magura Brakes, so that's why I was thinking about the above explained idea.

Damon,
What are the specs of the front brake shoe bolts? I want to get longer ones so that washers can be put in between the brake and them to close the brake fairings gap for some old school clincher 808s.

Thanks as always,
Ben

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Hi Ben,

Should be M5, but check at the hardware store to be sure.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Sorry for the question, but how can you not love the maguras? Maybe they are over kill if your under 140lbs. I love them, slick to adjust, and best they stop even with carbon wheels.

I also have the tri rig on my P3 it is very nice as well, but the stopping power on the maguras is awesome.

Damon,

I have many stripped bolts on the front end, and thus need a new beard(P5-6/58cm) and whatever piece the beard bolts to(stripped bolt these too). Can I order the beard and the other piece? Also, I would like to get all the bolts that the bike would basically ship with. Name it a "p5-6 bolt kit" if you will. My shop (Nytro)doesn't seem to be interested in ordering these parts for me.

I have a TriRig Omega on the rear of my P5 and I want to try to get hold of the TRP brake at some time to replace it because it's far from ideal. I had to dremel the plastic cable guide piece under the BB to get an acceptable cable routing, and even then it's a very tight loop which increases cable friction a lot. The other issue is that the Omega brake arms don't fit into the recesses in the P5's frame, so you have to space it away from the frame a lot. These photos show it a bit, but I can't take a photo that shows all the spacers because whatever angle I take it from, either the top or the bottom of the stack is hidden from view, so this photo just shows the middle of the spacer stack. I've never tried to put the cover on. Also, the brake pads needed cutting down a lot because the arms can't open very wide before they hit the frame unless you were to space it out even further from the frame.

I actually don't dislike the Magura just prefered the feeling I had with the 7970 brake levers and Trek SC1 integrated brake. Maybe it is more about the lever than the caliper but I had more "feeling" for braking management and confidence (I weigh 150-160lbs).

Thanks Steve,

it gave me a lot of useful informations !
Thanks again

Has anybody tried putting 25mm tyres on the P5Six. Does it work?

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Conti competition 25 worked fine on a zipp 808, 3mm Allen key needed to back out the set screws that determine the distances.

I ran 25mm Conti Competition tubulars on Zipp 808s last year. No problems.

Dave

Does anyone know of anything in the works for a storage unit over the bottom bracket from any company?

as you requested....http://forum.slowtwitch.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

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Apologies if this has been covered already but I couldn't find anything via the search. Is there any way to get the arm pads narrower than the normal narrowest setting on the Aduro bar? Different pads or some kind of shim?

zipp vuka wings work to move mounting position inward, though I am fairly certain you wont get cervelo to write off on that. or you can fabricate something yourself. my armrests meet I the middle, still a tad wide on the outside for me, but can keep my arms together even so.

Damon,

From an aero standpoint, is there an "ideal" rear wheel width for the P5 when running 22mm rubber? The reason I ask is I have a Zipp 808 FC set and an Easton EC90 SL set, which are considerably different widths (26mm vs. 21.5mm). I'm thinking of having a carbon wheel cover made for the Eastons and using the 808 FC on the front (for its aero advantage) and the EC90 SL (covered) on the rear for my P5. I'm trying to determine if I will be losing considerable aero advantage with a covered 808 versus a covered, fully lenticular shaped EC90.

I have a good reason to do this: "We" are caught in a world between gearing standards, and jumping into 11-speed for multiple bikes is very expensive, especially with the Zipps thanks to having to change the entire hub and then having to swap cassettes/spacers to go between 10- and 11-speed set ups. The beauty of Eastons's R4/R4SL hub is it has an interchangeable freehub that at first glance looks like will allow me to quickly swap between 10- and 11-speed gearing with just two 5mm hex wrenches, no chain whip required, and puts a set of wheels into 11-speed for only $80! Furthermore I should be able to keep 10-speed gearing on my S2 running the EC90's covered or uncovered. The money spent on rolling hardware to get me into the 11-speed world is a pittance compared to preparing the Zipp 808 for 11-speed.

I'll likely ask in a separate thread on ST on how many 24-spoke hubs out there have the same interchangeability as the Easton R4 hubs, but while I'm here, does anybody know of others that I might use on my 808 when I spend the money to do that wheel?

Dave

Hi Dave,

We've not separated front wheel and rear wheel effects in our testing. All else equal, wider wheels are better. Nevertheless, rear wheels are less important than fronts - and your 10 to 11 speed swap plan sounds valuable.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Fyi, if you're willing to make a very small compromise, there is a way to use any of your zipp (or other brand) 8/9/10 speed wheels with your 11-speed shimano drivetrain.

Greg @ dsw

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Hi Greg,

I remember you writing a couple of options. One was machining the freehub the appropriate thousands, the other was removing the smallest cog off an 11-speed cassette and messing with the limit screws to run on a 10-speed bike. I'd personally lean towards machining the freehub if there's a solid process for the Zipps, but were there any other ideas you were referring to?

Dave