Nice. Do you have a picture of the front end? What's the rig weigh all done up.?

Sweet, I'll throw mine up soon once it's ST ready.

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https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Chapeau! Nicely done.

Building mine up as we speak. Most parts sitting a pile or on the way. Can't wait.

Sold the frame last year, so I don't really belong on this thread! :)

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VALĒRE | YouTube

Here's mine. Currently giving it a makeover for the 2013 season. Sourced a TT stem and missile evo bars and once they're on it's all going for a respray!

Still, that's one killer-looking sled ...

---

Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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Was the raised bar a result of the saddle angle to avoid slipping or not? I hAd saddle issues and wanted to drop nose but started slipping forward a little too much.

Nice ride though.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Want. Bad. Actually any of these, def my favorite bike out there.

Looks great with a flat stem and Di2 getting rid of those cables.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

how difficult was it to install the di2 on that bike? Or did you buy the specific di2 frame for that build? It's a beauty

Bikes with that stem are Di2. A Plasma TT rather than a Plasma Premium.

There are several peeps who have obtained a TT stem (not easy) and with some minor mods run the Di2 system through fairly easily. There is another Plasma thread on here with some details on that.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

any way I can make you upload that in a larger size? It is brilliant!!!

Best looking bike ever. Just need to replace the green bottle...

Quite a while ago I spoke to Xlabs about their Delta Sonic rear system. They used to advertise it as being for the Cervelo seat posts but I asked them if it would fit a Plasma Premium. They said yes. I noticed that they have started mentioning that on their website too. I think one of the pros used it that way too, McKenzie maybe.

http://www.xlab-usa.com/...ems/delta-sonic.html

I ordered one on Thursday, I'll post pics if it works well.

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https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

I'm enjoying this thread thread since I love Scott's and own a Plasma 2. It just fits me best and am a bit disappointed in Scott changing to a regular seatpost instead of the ISP that was aero shaped as mine is.

Keep bringing on the bike porn!

Ever seen a plasma 3? The seatpost is super aero and adjustable. The reason i choose the plasma 3 over the plasma 2. Integrated seatmast is stoopid

Not really. After cutting the frame you still have about 50mm of adjustment so way more than needed if you change saddles.

Yeah as said above. It's a plasma tt, which comes with the flat stem. The frame set is di2 specific/only. Even thought its designed for di2, it's all still a tight fit.

Haha, yeah the green bottle came in the race pack and was gonna be ditched at the first aid station...

No other photos, at the moment. Race wheels are going in this weekend, will try grab some higher res pics.

Very sharp looking bike. must be very light as well. I used to race the Plasma 2, I would have the Plasma 3 if I did not have my Trek Speed Concept. I race a lot of guys that have this bike and they always have really nice bikes to look over. Glen

Very Thankful to Scott and Reynolds for their support this year!

ETA: I have a 90/Disc combo coming for racing.....Oside next weekend will likely be on these with a cover.

---

-------------------------------
I'm faster in Kilometers!
Wattie Ink Triathlon Team
Powered by Accelerate 3

How did you get on with the crank?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

We ride the same bike!!!

---

Brian Stover USAT LII
Accelerate3 Coaching
Insta

?? What you mean??

---

-------------------------------
I'm faster in Kilometers!
Wattie Ink Triathlon Team
Powered by Accelerate 3

Teammates!!!

---

-------------------------------
I'm faster in Kilometers!
Wattie Ink Triathlon Team
Powered by Accelerate 3

I thought it might have been you asking about compact crank compatability?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Ah....no....wasn't me ;)

---

-------------------------------
I'm faster in Kilometers!
Wattie Ink Triathlon Team
Powered by Accelerate 3

I might as well since I'm technically a Plasma 3 Owner...

Thought I would post some pics of the XLabs Delta Sonic installed.

I would say that if you want a single rear hydration and don't want to zip tie then it is unbeatable. I don't like the idea of zip ties BUT a zip tied cage would sit closer to the saddle and you could also get the bottle more horizontal but zip ties would be way less sturdy I imagine. This sits a little more upright than I thought but looks exactly like Luke McKenzie's HERE. There is room to zip a spares kit, which it looks like he has done.

As with anything triathlon i think it is horribly overpriced. It is effectively a metal rod with two threaded holes and bolt on one side to hold the cage.

You insert the other end of the rod into the hole where the seat mount slides. A bolt slides in the top of the seat rail into a third threaded hole. You can see the bolt head in the images below. This stops the rod moving back and forth but, critically, stops the rod rotating in the chamber. You can slide the rod back and forth to find a position that works for you, I assumed closer to the seat is better and this is as close as it gets. The seat clamp stops it going further.

The rod sits very snugly in the chamber, there is no resistance pushing it in but there is no rattle and the bolt makes it very secure. I secured it finger tight and it did not budge. The instructions say to install the cage first but that got in the way of my torque wrech so I would install the cage last.

As I say, it's overpriced, just a rod and three bolts but what it does it does very effectively. I have a lot of confidence in this and almost zero in their other crappy rear hydration systems. (My wife has the carbon wing and it constantly drops down regardless of tightening (we have a torque wrench and adjusted it correctly, high and low ... it still falls).

The Delta Sonic comes with the new Gorilla XT cage. It should have been called the XFT for Xtra F*&cking Tight. Nothing is getting ejected from that thing.

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https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Few things, for what they're worth.
-I don't think much would be stopping you from cutting the insertion end of the rod to get it closer to a steep saddle.
-If you were so inclined, you could make this heinously overpriced rod from a few dollars worth of bent rod and a few tapped holes.
-i have a gorilla zip tied to the saddle on my plaza and it works like a charm.

There is not much left to cut but it would get you a bit closer.

I would never be inclined to do anything like make something. I can earn the money quicker than the time spent to make it and history tells me that I would never get round to it .... but, you are correct, it is hideously overpriced. The cage only costs around $60 I think.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

I wanted this until I saw the ridiculous price. I have paid a lot for various triathlon related pieces of gear. But this is by far the most overpriced piece of equipment. A metal rod, bolt and a carbon cage (that in my opinion grabs bottles too tight) for should cost no more than HALF of what xlab charges. Nope. Not going to happen. I'm relying on a zip tie and it works flawlessly.

whats the diameter of the rod?

Same as the hole ;)

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https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

I'd say it depends (usually on age).
Sometimes it seems like the rod will never fit the hole and you reall have to work it. Other times it's the other way around.

Although I appreciate the sex jokes, if someone tells me the size, I might try making one just for kicks.

Just wondering how you got the Zipp Vuma Chrono crank mounted on the plasma? I can't seem to get the right size bearings to accommodate the 30mm spindle.
Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Traffic

guys need some help here......

I recently ordered a Plasma Premium frameset, Di2-specific model no. 227979. Last week my LBS told me that my order arrived. When I came to check it out, I noticed that there was NO DIFFERENCE between the mechanical-specific frameset that they always had on stock to the new supposedly Di2 frameset that arrived. I looked for the model number printed on the frame, box, manual, and other documentation but there was none. Even the instructions manual are similar.

I'm not saying that my LBS is trying to pull a fast one on me, but I just couldn't believe that SCOTT would have a separate model no. for mechanical specific (227980) and Di2 specific (227979) framesets if both were just the same.

I there anybody working at SCOTT here or know anyone you might be able to refer my issue? Or is there anyone who has purchased the Di2 frameset can you please advise?

Without customizing you couldn't route di2 through the stem in the old model.

If you can on this one you are good to go.

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https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Guys, I'm planning to buy a Plasma Premium.
But I'm concern about the stem.
How is the "angle" of the stem ? If I want more or less angle, should I buy another stem ?
I know that are 75mm and 90mm models, but no where specify the angle.
help me pls
tks

Scott customer service was very helpful when I had questions about my Plasma - form is here:
http://www.scott-sports.com/...ompany/contact/form/

A guy named Ben there was very helpful and responded quickly to follow-up questions I had.

Stems options are quite finite, so there's no need to be confused.

They come in 75mm (S & M) and 90mm (L). They all have 40mm of rise. That's all there is to it.

Buy the size based on reach, use bars for stack. That's really the only formula.

As Grosso27 said, choose the right reach for you .... and then choose a bar to suit your stack.

Are you buying the frame or complete bike?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Tks !
Planning to buy the frameset and then buid with Ultegra Di2
I used to have a PLasma Ltd size 52. As per my understanding, the geometry is very little different, right ?
So I should buy size S.

I think you will end up a little lower at the front than before if using the same bar.

The 'S' would give you a very similar reach. Bear in mind the 'Small' comes with a 75mm stem so how does that differ from your other Scott?

Does your existing bar have stack adjustment options? If you are getting a new bar how does that differ to your old Scott (both in reach and stack) and does that have any stack options?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Yeah, good questions!
I might go to the dealer to check all this. They did my fitting and have all my info.
I already sold mine !
tks to alert me

There is a very hard to get stem that has no rise. The stock are just the two lengths, both with 40mm rise. The zero rise is a Team HTC stem that can be found if you're willing to pay the bucks for it. I opted to do it just to get down as far as I wanted to.

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Shut up legs.

It's a good Idea.
I measured my plasma 3 and the hole diameter is 9,5mm and depth is 40mm (4cm) with the seat post cradle in foremost position.


If you know how to bend a steel rod and drill a couple of holes in it, then I'd be more than happy to prototype test it for you :)

Well, I think if you read my previous posts you will know what a fan of Scott I am. I had a CR1 before my Plasma Premium, and loved both.

Unfortunately ... I am now having to test their warranty and service. I had a slightly 'wobbly' crank arm and discovered the BB press fit cup was about 5mm out of the BB. Took it to the LBS, they removed the crank and were able to pull the BB cup out by hand! The other side had to be knocked out as usual. They tried the 'tight' cup from the other side in the side with the issue. Same thing, in and out by hand. They re-pressed the cup and I tried cycling on it, 30 pedal strokes later the cup was back out to the same position and wobbly again. Kind of sucks seeing as the season is just getting going.

I have sent pics and video to the dealer, they are forwarding to Scott. I'll keep you posted on what happens and how quickly it gets sorted. I hope the warranty / service is as good as the bike!

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

I am going to buy a Scott Plasma. I am 6.2 - 1.88m high.

What size should I get?

Does anyone have experience with Ultegra DI2?

I would base it completely on stack and reach, especially reach on the Plasma. There aren't many stem options. If you know those numbers, it should be easy to choose.

---

Shut up legs.

Get a small and post pics please! :)

Probably a large but like the previous poster said, base it on figures. The reach on a Plasma is fairly short and potentially adjustable by stem length. The Large comes with a 90mm, the other two come with a 75mm so there is 15mm of play there.

Stack is very variable if you get the right aerobar.

I have a fit calculator I did on a spreadsheet. It shows you how the Plasma frame will fit compared to your current TT bike based on using your same aerobar configuration you have now. Let me know if you want it and I will dig out the link.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

I'm also planning to build a PLasma with Ultegra Di2.
When I'm was talking with the bike shop, they said that I must used Dura Ace brake callipers. Is that correct ?
They mentioned that Ultegra brake callipers does not assemble / fit correcly.
Anyone can confirm this info or they are just trying to sell be a +$300 caliper ?

tks

The initial Plasma had an issue with calliper clearance on the back brake only. I am not sure about future versions. You need a Dura Ace 7800 if going Shimano but I think there are some other low profile options that will fit. I have a DA 7800 on mine.

The front you can have anything, well almost anything. I just purchased a Tri Rig Omega, which should look great.

The initial Plasma was also touted as 'Standard Crank only', no compact. But I have heard of people running compact on later models without issue.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

I just put a compact on my Plasma 3 last night, so I don't have a lot of miles on it thus far, but there haven't been any issues after 30 miles! Seemed like a pretty seamless transition.

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Shut up legs.

I have a feeling they moved the braze on position. Can you post a pic of that area?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

I'm not a plasma owner but Sebastian Kienles rig makes me want to be one...

https://twitter.com/...033931567104/photo/1

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"One Line Robert"

Just got my Plasma Premium a couple weeks ago, and finished up with the all internal routing last Friday.

I have the Omega brake on right now, using the integrated hanger. Looks great!

I installed a Quarq Riken 110 GXP with 172.5 cranks. No issues at all with clearance on each side. I'm using Ultegra Di2, and have to run the front derailleur basically all the way at the bottom of the braze on hanger, but it does fit.

One issue just showed up last night as I was installing my 808 FC for the first time. I pulled the old pads that were for aluminum brake surfaces and I installed new Tangente Pro pads on the rear Dura Ace 7800 brake, but couldn't keep them from rubbing. The width of the 808 FC plus the width of the new pads and pad holder leaves nearly no space between the pads and rim.

When I compared the old pads that were on the bike to the new pads, it appears the bike shop had filed down the old pads to give enough clearance to keep them from rubbing. This is what I was planning on doing. What have you guys done to fit an 808 FC on the back?

No pictures right now, since I'm at work, but I'll post them when I get a chance tonight or tomorrow.

Has the Plasma been amended from the first generation to allow internal routing through the standard rising stem? Or do you have the flat TT stem.

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https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Not that I know of. I did this on last years frame, regular (non-flat) stem, and the normal fork/steer tube. I followed the information posted here and did the modifications myself.

http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/...913_1764624117_n.jpg

I am currently in possession of your frame Nick in my effort to mount a comeback. Unfortunately currently riding a 10 and around the watts I use to rid half IM's in. So not doing it justice!

I just finished my build of the Di2 specific frame. There is no cable entry on the drive side of the frame and there are bosses under the non-drive side chainstay to mount the battery. The brake and cable entry on the non-drive side of the frame are the same as the mechanical.

Brake and cable? If the electronics are wired internally what is the second hole on the non drive side for? Or did you just mean single 'brake cable' entry. In which case it would be slightly different to the mechanical as the mechanical version has two holes on the non drive side (rear brake and front derailleur?)

They don't send the front derailleur down through a frame hole do they?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

The issue is not the braze-on height relative to the crankset on a compact, it's the spring on the frame side of the FD that hits the protrusion on the FD cable stop frame plate. Of course this is dependent on the exact front derailleur, and exactly how properly you have your low limit set, but it's indeed a potential issue. The spring hit for me on a Rival & old Red FD, but the new Red is fine.

Thankfully Sram is finally coming out with 52t rings for the Red Quarq, so I will be avoiding the problem altogether.

How do you guys adjust the rear brake? I am using the Dura Ace 7800, and it seems like the crank is making it impossible for me to reach that tiny bolt adjust the brake arms.

One for the rear brake, one for the electronics.

The Di2 frame doesn't run internal from the stem like the TT version.

eigner wrote:

How do you guys adjust the rear brake? I am using the Dura Ace 7800, and it seems like the crank is making it impossible for me to reach that tiny bolt adjust the brake arms.

I pulled the crank and took off the derailleur since the cage was in the way as well. Make sure you center the wheel exactly. You'll need a tiny hex to adjust the screws in the horizontal dropouts. I also had to remove the spacers between the brake pad holders and brake arms. But I was able to keep the brake from rubbing using a Zipp 808 Firecrest and brand new Tangente Platinum Pro pads. No filing down the pad like I expected I'd have to do.

Hey TriathlonNerd,

Thank you very much for your reply. Can you please post pictures of your bike showing the placement of your Di2 Battery (at the non-drive chainstay) and the drive side of your headtube (that shows there's no cable entry). I just want to show this to my LBS.

Truly appreciate it! Thanks!

Pardon the low quality cell phone pics. And she's still dirty from the first few test rides.
I'll post some clean pics once my race wheels are done.

I noticed the frame was made in Taiwan. My 1st gen. Plasma frame was actually made by Felt! ".. Made under licence to Felt Racing LLR .."

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https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

@ TriathlonNerd,

Thanks for the pics man these are just what I need. By the way are those small holes on each side of the stem factory-made or DIY?

Thanks!

I believe that's the brake design. They borrowed it... which is why it was by the rear brake cut-out. My 1st generation P3 had that sticker and a made in wherever sticker as well.

DIY
The factory Profile Design stem doesn't play well with the Shimano Missle EVO bars.

nice. dash saddle too.

can you give a close up of your spares setup at the back, looks neat.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Nice Bike!!!!!!!

Really cool little product my shop carries!
SpeedSleev

Long piece of elastic with loops for two tubes, CO2, lever, and multi-tool (not part of my race kit)


Folds together and held with velcro.


Tucks up nice and snug behind the saddle and is very quick to get what you need.

I just noticed there's actually quite some place underneat your Dash (?) saddle.

hmm....if it doesn't compress too much when you sit on it I think you could fit in a spare tube or something for race day ;)

Loving all the sleek looking Plasma's!

I mentioned in this thread that my BB cup was slipping out, causing the crank to wobble. Scott told me they wanted to look at it and to ship it back to them. Bike went back to LBS, got stripped and frame / seat post / fork / stems (I had both 75 and 99) were sent back to Scott in Utah.

I didn't have much trouble getting hold of Scott, although the store where I purchased it got hold of them first. I shipped it and they gave me an emailed answer in within 48 hours of receiving it.



So, happy that a new frame is on the way. This was the third season for the old one so a new one is perfect, even if I had to go without for a week or two.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

wow
/thread

---

Coaching - Future Endurance

Speedsleev is making one of the coolest, simple and most innovative products to come along in a very long time. My SeatSleev is the best accessory I have ever owned!

Alright, I'll play...

How did you mount the BTA bottle?

Here is my bike after todays ride with the setup I plan to race next sunday:

Easiest way is 4 zip ties and a cage. I looked for a pic of my Plasma with it set up but couldn't find one. If I find one I'll post it. The other option would be use the search function there are a few threads on how to do it.

---

Brian Stover USAT LII
Accelerate3 Coaching
Insta

I've done that before. one of the zip ties broke while riding. Not very happy about that :/

4 zip ties & a trek bat cage. works like a charm.

If you get the opportunity, can you then please take a photo of how you zip tied it?

[URL=http://s1165.photobucket.com/...zps47e1c2d7.jpg.html][/url]


[URL=http://s1165.photobucket.com/...zps1452d15a.jpg.html][/url]

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me with some sizing/geometry questions.......I have a chance to get a crazy deal on the scott plasma and leave my p4, the only catch being its a 56/Large. a p5 and plasma are the only bikes I would leave my p4 for, So im trying to figure out if its right for me or stay on my current bike.......This is based off my retul fit 4 months ago.

I'm currently on a 56cm P4 with a 90mm stem. Im 6' tall 33.75-34" inseam.

Heres the two numbers that are wayyy different.

headtube length-----P4=125 Plasma=169......Between my headset and spacers I have 1 3/8 inches=34.92 mm to the bottom of the stem on p4.
standover height----P4=780 Plasma=840....This is crazy difference, 2.4 Inch .

Reach is spot on with what I need - P4= 433 Plasma=430 (I needed a bit shorter)

I would be moving over my sram red groupset, tririg omega front brake, zipp firecrerst 404s, and Shimano Pro missile (Straight bars)... Will there be any issues with those parts im unaware of?

Im going to talk with my fitter tomorrow a bit and see his ideas but figured you guys would be able to point me in the right direction to start. If it doesn't fit....o well, it was worth a shot.

Please and thank you in advance.

-Sam

---

___________________________________________________________

"A wise man once told me......God doesn't call the equipped, he equips the called."

I can't help you with comparisons to your P4, as I've never been on one of those C-word bikes, but I can tell you that I'm 6' with a 34" inseam and the Plasma fits me like a dream. I have the Plasma premium, but I did end up getting the TT stem to get lower, but that was just my preference.

You should be good on compatibility of parts/components between the bikes. Go for it and never look back!

---

Shut up legs.

This should help you establish differences between your current set up and a Plasma Premium.

COMPARISON SPREADSHEET HERE

Let me know if you have any questions.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Can anyone let me know how much of the drop out adjustment screw they are using to centre the back wheel.

I just got a new frame under warranty, the guy building it seemed to be using a ton of screw on the right hand side and none on the left just to centre it. I did not get a good look but will tomorrow, I assume he is doing something wrong. I thought the screws were just to adjust distance from the frame not to centre the wheel.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Also .... anyone know what this is? It was left over from my build!!!! Something to do with the fork / steering assembly I think.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Looks like a lower crown race.

Builder said the race was built into the carbon fork .... I think. Is this a hangover from an older gen frame? Or should it have been put on this frame?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Looks like the one on my Plasma 2. How does the steering feel?

Not ridden it yet, still got a few things to finalise. Seat post cutting for one.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Crown race.

I had the same one left over.
It's built into the fork so nothing to be worried about. Just an extra part by mistake from the factory.

Great, thanks. I had two shiny silver discs too, one was used, one left over. Looked like a thin washer, around same diameter as the race was.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

I have those too - I was worried about leaving them off and ending up causing damage, but they didn't fit anywhere in the fork/HS assembly (the ID was too small for the steerer tube).

It is a crown race... definitely don't need it as the fork has one built-in. I'm assuming it's just part of OE packaging as some bikes need it and some don't but it's not worth their time to separate the one piece.

I have a question about the stem. It seems to me that the underside of the stem is not very aero. It appears as though it's "scooping" air. For a few races I have used electrical tape to cover this area so air will move around the "scoop".

Does anyone else have this concern about the "scoop"?
Am I wrong in thinking that taping this area will improve aerodynamics?

---Francis

...another reason to upgrade to the TT stem. That really should have been a standard option.

---

Shut up legs.

TT stem? Is this something new? Can I get it online?

It's not new. It was only available on some of their TT bikes. Scroll to the bottom of the page below--I got one similar to one of these from a place in Ireland. Lowered my stack, had to have significantly increased aerodynamics...seriously don't get why this isn't a commercial option for them--even includes a better routing option for cabling, IMO.
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...rum.cgi?post=3642517

Edit:
This is exactly the stem I have.
http://www.cyclingnews.com/...umbia-scott-plasma-3

---

Shut up legs.

The first link didn't work.

I will really struggle with a lower stack. My aerobars (Tula) don't have vertical adjustment, so I had to make my own aero stacks. I guess I could make different stacks if I felt the different stem would be better.

Thanks for your help.


---Francis

Hi there

I am about to get a Quarq power meter and want to know that type of Crank should i get in order to fit the Press Fit BB of the bike
On the Quark�s web site the give you two options of it!!!!!!! GPX or 90
Thank�s

I have a SRAM Red GXP Quarq on my Plasma. That works fine. That's all I know!

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Shut up legs.

GXP press Fit

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https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

There are so many different bearing sizes now. do you know what the actual name is for the Scott Plasma Premium 3 such as BB86.

I think the GXP is one size?

There is a thread on the Plasma BB here
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...um.cgi?post=4343394;

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Yes, GXP is GXP. BB86 and BB90 are different. If you get GXP, you'll be fine.

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Shut up legs.

Glad you got it worked out

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Jaymz, thanks a lot for posting the comparison table! I am about to buy a Scott Plasma TT and have some questions and remarks.

* I guess the formula in cell E21 should be =SUM(E20-B20) iso =SUM(D20-B20)
* The values in cells C28 to E28 for "Bar Centre to Top Tube (mm)" for a Scott Plasma Premium with the rising stem are 23mm. For a Scott Plasma TT with a flat stem, would that value change to -17mm? I read somewhere that the stem of the Plasma Premium has a rise of 40mm.

If I fill your spreadsheet with the two assumptions above, I'll end up with the following table:

Existing Bike Small Medium Large

Reach (mm) 403 390 415 430
Stem Length (mm) 120 75 75 90
Effective Reach 523 465 490 520
Difference to existing bike -58 -33 -3


Standover Height (mm) 764 780 810 840
BB Drop (mm) shown in diag) 67 65 65 65
Difference Sub Total 14 44 74

Bar Centre to Top Tube (mm) 71 -17 -17 -17
As shown in diagram below.


Total Difference in Bar Height -74 -44 -14

Judging these figures, I should go for a Size L, right? I read a quote of Jordan Rapp that the reach of a new frame should be within +-5mm of the ideal position. This would be true for a Size L with my current ideal position (I am 183cm with a 84cm inseam). With a Size L, I would need 10mm of Spacers below the armrests to match my current "Armrest standover height". The only downside I can see on a framesize L is that I would end up having a standover height of +8cm compared to my current frame. On a framesize M, it would be "only" +5cm, I would need 4cm of spacers below the armrests and would need to mount the extensions 3cm more forward.

Any advise from current Scott Plasma owners? Should I go for a size M or L?

One more question: Has anyone managed to put a SM-EW90-A or even SM-EW90-B front junction box into the Scott Plasma TT stem?

Best regards,

Frank

Racing today, will contact you later. The stem rise is 40mm but it starts from below the stand over height as the stem sits at the same level as the top tube so it ends up 23mm above.

You are correct about the flat stem. I might add more data fields for that.

I am not sure why the stand over height is an issue as it is not a contact point. I would ignore that.

The large seems your best bet.

I am not sure about the cell data issue. Will check later.

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Thanks for your quick reply and good luck while racing today!

Of course the stand over height is not an issue in general - having a 84cm inseam, I am just a bit worried a 84cm stand over height might become a "contact point" when stopping at a traffic light without being careful. Family planning is not yet fully executed ;-).

I am curious whether I still should go for a size M as it could enable me to go lower & narrower in the future, even if I can't hold such an extreme position right now.

Has anybody used a FLO disc on the SP 3? How do the fit?

I use Jet C2's and they have plenty of clearance. Not sure if that helps.

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Hey guys. I know dura ace 7800 is the goto rear brake, but are there any others out there that will work? Please and thank you in advance.

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"A wise man once told me......God doesn't call the equipped, he equips the called."

I know there are, I just don't know / can't remember which ones. We should ask everyone to put the full bike spec next to their images as you don't see many out on the circuit and it would be good to know what setup people have.

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FSA, TRP and a Felt custom DA brake might be alternatives.

That said, the standard DA brake and clean routing means the rear brake is phenomenal on a Plasma.

Search the forum for Plasma 3 rear brake, there is a thread on it.

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Thanks!

For those asking my same question. TRP T925-1B , Tektro r725fr, dura ace 7800 and 7900, and fsa offers one although I cannot find what specific model. Along with that I forgot to post a picture of my new ride! Here she is! (yes I know I dropped the chain, I like to rip my bike around headed into transition like it's in trouble)

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"A wise man once told me......God doesn't call the equipped, he equips the called."

+1. The DA brake is bombproof and easy to adjust on the Plasma.

Is it possible to get one of those stems and internally wire a non Di2 system through the stem?

You routed it through the normal stem? do you have Di2 or a standard groupset?

Where did you get that stem?

I've noticed that as well. I've heard that you can wire through there as well if you know how, also in the Di2 specific models, people use them to hide Di2 equipment (Look at Gary's bike at Celina this weekend) and then cover it up.

Hey Lokiddp

I may be going out on a limb here but ... are you keen to establish exactly how one can procure a flat stem for a Plasma Premium 3 as can be seen in numerous images posted on this thread?

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Got mine from the guy who sell the old saxobank and HTC gear. I think his name on eBay way Kinexproducts. He is all out of stock now, though. These stems where never produced for public use.

I actually got it when brought the frame 2nd hand. I believe it was brought from kinetix who buy and sell pro team gear fincluding htc stuff. Unfortunately it didn't have the proper stem cap. Someone on here had one to sell but wouldn't ship to uk. Have tried Scott with no joy. They don't seem to want to sell this stem though I notice their pro teams and triathletes usually have them so they must be made still in small batches.

It seems that Kinetix is the only company that sells them at the moment.

Finally getting around to posting my pic after starting this thread.

I change the set up a bit for longer races and but a bottle between the aerobars, and dual bottle cage behind the seat and remove the cages on the downtubes.

Not as fancy as some, but I like it.




Note the very expensive and aerodynamic repair kit carrier under the seat (I know, I know, but it doesn't add much weight and it works):

nice. have you thought of a cage zip tied behind the seat and one of those Pro Spares canisters (like a short water bottle with a standard lid)? I have one and it looks quite neat.

I am still battling the "what best to do with the shifter cables" issue. I have quite high risers. For those with low pads then I think coming out of the rear of the extensions looks best. Mine currently just come from the front part of the extensions straight to the entry holes, I might route them over the top of the bar first either side of the stem just to clean it up from a side view. That;s the only thing I don't like about this bike.

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II agree re cables. The front cables are so under designed compared to everything else that it's like they had a brain fart on this one item. I am thinking the next gen if this bike fixes the issue. For now, my LBS just rigged it up as clean as they could.

My favourite part about the bike: it corners well. For a bike designed to straight line I have taken some pretty tight lines and the bike hasn't let me down. That's actually what sold me on this bike over the Speed concept that I was also considering.

Way better looking than the SC in my opinion and when I purchased it (the year it came out) the build quality was a lot better. The SC felt like plastic and was having a ton of issues with brakes and whatever.

I am not sure the cables are under designed. I think they probably thought about it and, like the rest of the Plasma, went for performance and practicality. Due to going straight back and down probably offer little in the way of any aero penalty and because they are almost bend free they are very smooth and perform well. They just don't quite look as pretty as hidden cables. I am not sure what the issue is with not having them drop in the front of the top tube but I assume there is one as they do it on the previous Plasma. Who knows, maybe they just got bored! :) no worse than many others I guess, makes you think a lot about doing the Di2 internal conversion though!

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Just entered this mighty clan. Have the frame, working on getting all the gear! Looking forward to having one fast bad ass machine!!

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_______________________
Beyond Aero

"Grind it til' you find it..."

Sweet. What's your build going to be?

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Great question! HA! I think Force set with Missile Evo bars, jury (read check book) is out on the wheel choice might just bum swap from my roadie and rent until I decide. I still need to get hydration and seat nailed down. Looking forward to watching it grow and then taking names on courses! Least I hope...!

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_______________________
Beyond Aero

"Grind it til' you find it..."

I thought it might be an idea for people to include a build on this forum so people can ask questions if necessary. Here's mine. I desperately wanted a Premium but could not afford the complete bike. I already had Hed Jet 6 front and rear so got a frame and semi budget build with SRAM force. Most other accessoiries qwere added over the last three seasons. The frame is a 2013 as my 2011 was replaced under warranty (BB hole too large for press fit on non drive side)

• Frame: Scott Plasma Premium 3 - 2013 - Large
• Stem: Switched to 75mm from 95mm - Rising stem version.
• Wheels: Hed Jet 6 C2 front / Hed Jet C2 rear with Powertap / Hed Jet Disc with Powertap
• Bar: 3T Brezza Ltd (60mm risers, Zipp pad extenders, Ventus Carbon Cradles + comfort pads)
• Shifters: SRAM 900 Carbon TT
• Brake Lever: SRAM 900 Carbon TT
• Brakes: TriRig Omega front / Dura Ace 7800 rear
• Chain set: SRAM Force throughout: Standard Crank / SRAM Chain / Cassettes 12-28 and 11 - 27
• Pedals: Speedplay Zero
• Saddle: Bontrager Hilo RXL Speed Dial (Adjustable) <---- best thing on the bike!
• Hydration: XLAB Delta Sonic rear / Specialized Ribcage between the arms.

Would love the flat stem but I need the stack. Bradley Wiggins helped make the risers socially acceptable too, which was nice of him :)

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Does anyone know if the tririg sigma fits on the plasma? http://www.tririg.com/...tallation&num=19

It'll fit the tube but don't know if it will clear the frame when you're turning. Definately wont be a flush fit. If you're looking for a flat stem, just wait, I hear that Scott will be releasing one soon... like mid september. It fits flush. I have an early version on my bike right now but there were a few fitment issues I had to work around.

Awesome, thanks.

[/img]

Theres a teaser :)

I love it. Can your wire through that stem into the steer tube to the frame?

I don't believe so. Although it is basically the same thing as the raise stem just flat, there is no hole anywhere on the stem to fit cables/wires through. I think since this one is a prototype they didn't even put the hole to fit the pin with the thread for the top cap which made install a pain in every part of my body. I hope the final version that is released to the public does consist of cable/wiring routing and a much smoother fit.

I just spoke to Nick at TriRig. Can you PM me please :)

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If you could get from the stem into the steerer tube .... where would you go from there?

I think the new stem is likely just going to be a straight up stem with no routing. You'd need the frame to be accommodating too, not just the stem. For anyone hooked on the aesthetic it might be worth checking the drop, 4cms is a lot of stack to lose if you are already dialled in. Time to get those risers out!

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Drill some holes in the steering tube, this can be done with the rising stem as well, make the hole that leads into the frame in the steerer tube wide horizontally so you have some room to turn. You're also going to have to probably drill a hole into the frame as well, some of the Di2 versions supposedly have the holes already drilled, but I'm not for sure. From there, you can just insert the cabling into the already formed routing, you'll probably have to drill some holes to get into those as well. It's tough but I've seen it done.

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ditlog;post=4024856;

I'm planning on doing it this winter after I finish my season out.

If you drill enough holes you could internally cable any bike I imagine.

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fuckit.. im not going to drill my Crazy $$$ plasma 3!

Only lokiddp has the unfettered enthusiasm and slight madness to give this a whirl. I know some people have done it but they all seemed like they knew what they were doing!

If nothing else his bike will be lighter than all of ours.

lokiddp .... please post pictures of each stage and ... good luck :)

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Currently the owner of a new 2013 52cm Scott Plasma Premium frameset. Got the frameset because my 2006 Scott Plasma frame's steerer tube snapped mid-ride and I took a major tumble. Nothing broken but road rash and pretty beat up. Out of warranty but Scott reluctantly agreed to give me a frame. Always felt the 2006 frame was a tad too small (Mission Bay in Chicago did a crap fit job in 2006) so tried to have Scott give me a 54 cm frame but they balked. Always felt slightly cramped up. Retul bike fit made it somewhat better but the top tube was always a little short and nervous about getting further extened over the front wheel with a longer stem. Generally an unpleasant experience with Scott all around. I'm 5'8" guy with a proportionally longer torso. Trying to sell the frame and use proceeds to buy another brand but may end up stuck with it. If I get to that point, is the Plasa Premium frame a little more on the long and low rather than the short and tall? Don't want to build it up just to find out I again have an ill-fitting bike.

Plasma 2 and Plasma 3 are the same reach across all sizes.

The stem on both is a 75mm apart from the large which is a 90mm. You could go 90 on the stem with no issues I imagine, 1.5cm of reach feel like quite a lot more than it sounds. Maybe a combo of that and dialling the seat back slightly will help you remove the cramped feeling.

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What do we think of the new look? Cervelo seemed to copy some design cues from the Premium frame. Looks like Scott copied a red design cue from Cervelo!

http://www.scott-sports.com/...-plasma-premium-l56/

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Can I just order a 90mm stem through my LBS that carries Scott? Like to ride forward (80 degree angle or so) and have a Cobb Gen 2 saddle I like so could use the extra 15mm of reach out front.

I don't see why you couldn't order a 90mm stem. They're available in the raise version for sure.

If not I have a spare ... I think.

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If you are building it up yourself then I also have the best rear brake for the job. Dura Ace 7800. Used but in great condition, let me know if interested.\. You have to be careful which rear brake you use, you need a low profile one to avoid rubbing.

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I will, I'm going to wait until my season is over in mid-october anyway. So it will be a while. I'll be sure to post pics!

Any update with this? Release date? Thanks!

If you have 45mm of riser under your pads, why wouldn't you use the 40mm rise stem & have your pads right on top the basebar?

I will get back to you with an update as soon as I hear from Scott. As far as why I wouldn't use the raise stem is because of aerodynamics and one thing that is overlooked with going to a flat stem is that turn in response is greatly reduced. This is a rider based preference and only few like it. The raise stem created this sharp turn in response which at high speeds (30+mph) I found to be quite more susceptible to crosswind nudges and what felt like extra air drag against the steering. I've been riding flat stems for years so I'm use to the lack of sensitivity (turn in response) during my high speed decents and twisty's. The follow through on the flat stem coming out of a high speed corner is quite a bit different than the raise stem. Since changing to the flat stem I have not endured one single sketchy crosswind nudge at 30+mph. Actually some police radar clocked me at 39mph the other day in 5-10mph crosswinds and I never felt a single nudge in my steering.

Yeah I just heard back from the kind man from Scott and he says "as far as I know that they will be released by the end of this month." I took the liberty in asking about what colors and sizes they will come in so I'll keep you all posted.

the other question I am interested in is will they sell direct. I don't have a LBS with 150 miles that sells scott.

I can't answer that one. Although i'd be ready to make a 150 mile trip if I were you haha. These relatively new products that are just coming out for the first time typically need to be special ordered through your LBS which is what I did. Your best bet is to just keep scanning their website to see if they'll sell them through the web.

New to the thread....just starting to build a Scott Plasma.
Question regarding the rear brake...Do I need to go with the dura ace 7800 to prevent rubbing? Will another rear brake work, SRAM red? Putting a tri rig brake on the front.
Thanks!

I know the 7800 is supposedly the best fit. I run the 7900 with a Rotor 3d tt crank and it barely clears with about 1-2mm clearance and I haven't had a single problem.

I believe I have SRAM Black ( will have to check to make sure) on mine and it works fine. I also believe the 2012 SRAM red and newer will work.

any updates on flat stem availability?

Should be available by the end of this month/beginning of next from what Scott tells me.

Can anyone tell me if there are fit issues to build this bike up with Di2 across the board? And where would the battery pack be located? Personally just not a fan of SRAM after having it on a previous bike. Love my Shimano and am thinking Di2 for my next bike.

I had to replace the stem on my Plasma Premium since one of the bolt hole threads that hold the base bar secure stripped out. No matter how tight I made the remaining 3 screws the base bar was rotating every bump.

I decided that I'd rather not wait for the rumored flat stem to be sold by Scott because I want this fixed before IM FL. So I thought I'd give the TriRig Sigma stem a shot and see if it fits.

First the good news - there are no problems with the bolts on the back of the stem clearing the frame. The angle of the steer tube is correct with the angle of the stem, so that the top of the stem is flat.

Now for the bad news - there is rubbing between the stem and the tip of the frame, just behind the brake cable hole in the stem. However I was able to avoid the problem by cutting two spacers and installing them between the top steer tube bearing and the stem. With those in place, there is a small gap between the stem and frame, and the bike turns without rubbing.

I have taken before and after photos and uploaded them here:

Imgur Album

For those that are impatient, here is the before and after:

Is that how it sits, jutting above the frame or is the stem cap piece just not seated properly?

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That's just how it sits. You could always leave off the cable cover.

This is how it looks without the cover. You can see the steer tube cap is installed correctly. Personally, I found wiring with this stem incredibly easy, even more so compared to the nightmare that was custom modding the original stem to fit this custom Di2 setup through it.

That stem is screaming for a Scott Plasma specific wire cover that'll sit flush with the frame. I share your pain with the stripped bolts.... its a daily thing with me. :/

Do you know if there is any update on this?

Nope. I was told in an email they would become available by late Sept. but im assuming since your asking, that this never happened. Your best bet would be to email Scott inquiring about the availability and if they've got one sittin' around that you can $pay$ them for. I told them a few months back that I was seriously desperate for one and willing to pay up to $400 for it so they sent me their frankenstein unfinished version for a few hundred bucks which is why It did not slip right on for an easy install. Although the stripped head of the bolt in the top cap didn't help me either but that was not the stems fault rather a really pathetic metal bolt that rusted from my sweat and deformed over a months time. I had to rape my top cap with an electric drillbit just to get that bolt out of there so I will probably be looking to buy a new flat stem myself just for peace of mind. If you don't want to go through the trouble of contacting Scott just let me know and I will get in touch with them again.

Thanks emailed them
We will see what happens

Keep us posted! :)

The new flat stem can be seen on the pros bikes at Kona. Slightly different design to the old flat stem. Can't see that it can accommodate full internal Di2.

Prospective owner here, and i have a few question re: stem and other things.

1. Has anyone managed to run an off-the-shelf Shimano PRO stem on the plasma premium? I presume that all the pictures of the PRO stem i've seen are actually the specially made stems for the HTC team?

2. What brakes are you guys using for the rear, and how hard is it to adjust it going from a narrow training wheel to a wider racing wheel?

3. This will be my first TT bike and i don't have anything to go off. But rough estimation, i currently ride a Scott Foil (size 52) with a reach of 384 mm and running a 100 mm, -6 degree stem slammed on the headset. The Plasma Premium in small has a reach of 390 mm. I would assume that this bike wouldn't be too "large" for me given that i'd most likely use a shorter stem and have a more forward position, correct?

Thanks in advance.

All the PRO stems for Scott Plasma's are in fact race team only editions for some dumb reason. Although I've seen nobody run the standard shimano pro stem my basic assumption would be that it will fit but not flush. From my understanding after looking at the Standard PRO missle stem is that it has a slight rise and is not a 100% flat stem. I could be mistaken but I do recall reading this somewhere. I couldn't find pictures of it anywhere I looked either. Those PRO stems on HTC's bikes are golden, I really dont understand why Scott didn't make them available to everybody... its like passing up on a gold mine.

As far as fitting goes, I can't help much there but I can say that the Small/medium come with 75mm and large with 90mm

To answer your questions:

1. I have not, I was lucky enough to source a HTC flat stem though.

2. DA 7800 brakes. There are some other models that will fit, but most won't. I don't know all the different brakes that will fit although I think it's been answered in this or a different thread. FWIW I've run a standard, an Egg and a Tri Rig Omega brake on the front. The TR Omega is the current brake of choice.

3. There is a fitting sheet somewhere on here iirc. I believe you just plug everything in and it spits out the data. Maybe Jaymz posted it? It's important to get the reach correct since there are less than a handful of stems for this bike.

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Insta

thank you both for the response.

As for the stack and reach, i have seen the spreadsheet. But given that i don't have prior data (just a road bike), what could I glean from it?

Oh yea I use a 2013 Shimano Da7900 with very minimal clearance on a Rotor 3d TT crankset. Thought I'd mention since few people seem to run it on the Scott Plasma Premium. The fact that its color scheme is a perfect match for the 2013 plasma is a plus too.

1. Don't know.
2. Dura Ace 7800. I have a clean used one for sale if required.
3. Definitely get a bike fit.

Someone mentioned stems but got them round the wrong way I think. The small and medium come with 75mm, the large comes with 90mm.

Also, with the Plasma Reach is really the important figure. The stack is hugely adjustable by most modern aerobars. The bike us designed to get relatively low so not really suitable for the 'I have the bars really high due to my bad back' crowd. I have a very high stack figure and am great with a 3T Brezza and 60mm risers, I move between 60 and 50 / 40mm depending on race types.

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Yes thats right, small medium 75mm and large 90mm! I was wrong about that, I've been off lately :/

Di2 question and can't seem to get a straight answer. I have a 2013 Scott Plasma 3 premium and am currently running SRAM red. I want to move over to Di2 but am not 100% sure if the bike is set up to do this stock. I assume I'll need to plug some of the cable holes and I found 2 holes under the BB for mounting (although I'll likely go with the smaller batter in the seat post). Anyone else done a Di2 build with this year frame that can shed some light? Thanks!!

Got my flat stem from Scott today. I get a picture with it on my bike soon. Cost $180

Nice, thanks for the update. I need to buy another one. I paid $250 just to have mine a couple months ago. Nice to know they're right under the $200 mark.

Did you have to buy it directly from Scott or could your LBS order it?

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So this is a real thing then, or still some super-secret one off?

Yes your LBS has to order it. They have to call bob in the waranty department

The real thing

Hah, do they need to know the super secret code word "Bob" will require? :-)

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Look at the pics of my build earlier in this thread.
2013 Di2 specific frame.

Got the old one last year!
Want to see the new one

For those of you who have the Di2 specific frame, do you know if it's possible to do the entire wiring internally?

Also, where do people mount their batteries? And i presume i could also get the internally mounted battery?

Finally, has anyone here managed to put the junction box inside a flat stem?

Just in case you don't get a response from someone who has a Di2 version (I don't) �. there are two Di2 frames. The TT frame and also the Premium frame set up (slightly) more for Di2. The TT frame is internal wiring. The Di2 Plasma frame is not. One of the cable holes on the right of the Premium Di2 frame is blocked, the wiring enters the hole on the other side of the frame where the standard cables go on a non Di2 version (see image below). It is possible to wire internally, others have, but it requires custom drilling to route through the stem area and preferably a TT stem and Di2 compatible bar so you can hide the cables all the way from the shifters.

A battery placement and junction box placement (tied under stem) option are below (snatched from elsewhere on this thread). The other Di2 guys on here have been helpful with info so check out their pics and maybe flip them a PM.

I initially thought that another option would be the TriRig stem, which also has a junction box placement, but it doesn;t really work on the Plasma � someone tried and it looked a bit hokey and stuck up from the frame.

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thanks for that information!

by chance, do you happen to know if the old HTC livery framesets are the Plasma TT framesets of the Plasma Premium Di2? I happened to chance upon one of those framesets (along with the -17 stem), and i'd assume the whole thing is Plasma TT, but i'm not sure.

They are all TT frame sets. They should not have the holes in the frame for cables. You will need something like a pro missile bar to make the most of fully internal wiring.

HTC used a custom bracket tucked under the rear of the seat to mount the battery (looked a little like the behind seat bottle brackets). I am unsure where the junction box went but it was well hidden, maybe under the stem. Someone on another forum piste this ( but its worth bearing in mind that the newer Di2 is less cable bulky I think)

".. Wiring the bars was a nightmare, had to grind down the little junction boxes so they'd slip inside the base bar to free up enough space in the stem for the control box. Worth it though! .."

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Got it.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, certainly made me more knowledgeable with my purchase. I just made payments for a HTC-livery Plasma TT, and I look forward to posting details of the build in the upcoming months (yes, you read that right, i expect this thing may take months to complete).

I ordered mine before they came out. had it a few seasons and I still would not swap it for another bike. I had a warranty replacement a couple of months ago and thought of selling the frame for something else just for the hell of it �. could not think of another bike I wanted.

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And so it begins, my winter project.

Where did you buy your HTC-Plasma? Been looking for one.....

enduro sport in Toronto, ON

I have been looking for that specific stem for ages. I love that shark look. I just can't seem to find it. Not even on eBay.

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If God invented marathons to keep people from doing anything more stupid, the triathlon must've taken him by surprise. -PZ Pearce

You wouldn't happen to know if they sell just that stem? I've been dying to get my hands on the one with the shark for ages now...

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________________________________________________
If God invented marathons to keep people from doing anything more stupid, the triathlon must've taken him by surprise. -PZ Pearce

speak to them. What do you have to lose?

There's a good chance that the distributor, Mica Sport Canada, may have one or two sitting around

If you read the posts above, Scott may have the flats available now.

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i think he seems to be more interested in the shark-tooth graphics

Ahh, then maybe I should read the posts above!

Try this guy:

kineti_lq2827se@members.ebay.ie

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Cant tell from your pic....but what brake is that? TRP???
Im on a small and even with the stock stem I have a pretty significant kink with a 7900...that looks like a perfect option especially now anticipating getting a flat stem ...

I got this breaks from my Felt DA that i sold out..... it is not TRP

For the Di2 owners out there, how did you go about sizing the length of the wire you need?

Scott doesn't actually give measurements for the down tube, so this is a bit of an issue. Otherwise I assume 300 mm is enough for the FD and Battery (to the rear junction) and 500mm is enough for the RD? Or is 450mm sufficient?

Also, anyone know of a way to attach the battery to the back of the saddle? What sort of mounting hardware would i need for that?

To be honest I would go with the under BB mount. It looks cleaner and is probably a lot easier to wire.

The first HTC bikes had them saddle mounted using a custom bit of whatever. I think some of the new bottle mounts from various sources (XLab, Profile etc) might get you started with the clamp. Here is a link to the HTC version.

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Anybody got any pics of this elusive new flat stem already?

I have one but too busy cross racing to set it up. I can say it looks exactly like the other one without the bend. It does not look like the garmin sharp one sbove.

So it doesn't have that smooth and pointy aggressive look?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Jaymz wrote:

So it doesn't have that smooth and pointy aggressive look?

Just looks like this:

Yep that's it. Surprised me they didn't make it smooth

Still looks sweet though.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Or cut the weight in half, down to something like 2lbs.

Hey, guys, need some help.
I've got my baby from ebay seller, but can't find one bolt/pin which connects fork and stem below toptube. Do you know how it's called and how i can get it? Will be grateful if smb takes a look inside your bike and help me with it :)
Several photos attached to give you an idea what i'm talking about.
Thanks!

http://gyazo.com/...dab182000b64c48974ee
http://gyazo.com/...58b37c3f3e6c1b38f206

Here the baby of my girl in an old and an actual (long TT) setup:

http://www.flickr.com/...et-72157638041771876
http://www.flickr.com/...t-72157638041771876/
http://www.flickr.com/...t-72157638041771876/
http://www.flickr.com/...t-72157638041771876/
http://www.flickr.com/...t-72157638041771876/

Can't see your last 2 pics but if your talking about the pin that goes through the stem after its on the fork. On my prototype flat stem, they didn't even have the hole for the pin. I had to insert pin into fork and then mangle my stem onto the bike. SO hectic. If you do not have the pin you must get in contact with Scott and request the pin, feel free to show them this pic when doing so.. :

Does your lady's name happen to be Fahlin or Johansson?

Seriously though, that's a gorgeous looking bike.

Have (quite) a few questions about the bike.

-Where did you attach the magnet for the eSs aRe aM? On my Foil i attached it on the chain guard, but i do have a few spare SRM double taped magnets around.
-How did you set up the brakes cables? Do you happen to be running Nokon cables?
-How much of a pain was it to install the Tri-Rig? Did you need to drill anything through the stem?
-Is the routing full internal for your Di-2 set up? In particular, how do the cables go from the entensions of the Tula into the stem? Did you need to drill any holes?

I'll probably be bugging you more about this as I set up my own (see last page). Right now i'm still in parts gathering mode.

No, however she is very fast.



I once bought 100 small NdFeB magnets and colled one on the chain guard near the bottom bracket with a superglue.



Yes, Nokon inside the handlebar. In the frame ordinary cables are used. I had to turn some connections. The Tula is rotated by 180� in order to get the brake cables into the stem.




It was some pain but not too much. I drilled a hole and tapped a threading. Biggest pain was to get the right length of the Nokon cable and remove just enough aluminium from the stem in order to get it in.



No, not fully but almost, look here:
http://www.flickr.com/...set72157638041771876

The Di-2 control was first inside the stem. But with the cabe for the Tri-Rig Omega there was no place left over, thus it is now in the left extension (had to grind a litte bit from the Di-2 plastic).

Many thanks for the helpful answers!

Hi!

I recently purchased a Scott Plasma TT 2011 frameset and built it up with Ultegra Di2 6770 components. I'll try to answer some of the Di2 related questions.

"For those of you who have the Di2 specific frame, do you know if it's possible to do the entire wiring internally?"

Yes, with the original flat stem and the PRO Missile Evo bar, wiring can be done completely internal (except for the front brake and the derailleur cables). If you'll use another aero bar, most likely at least some cables will be exposed.

"Also, where do people mount their batteries? And i presume i could also get the internally mounted battery?"

I bought a SM-BTR2 internal battery and put it into the seatpost. It works like a charm, no cables exposed and no rattling of the battery.

"Finally, has anyone here managed to put the junction box inside a flat stem?"

I tried my best but unfortunately was not successful. Neither the SM-EW90-A nor the SM-EW90-B will fit. The height would fit after grinding off some plastic elements used for strap mount of the front junction box. Yet the length including the plugged in cables will be too long for the cavity of the stem. I have the 75mm flat stem so possibly the junction box might fit into the 90mm stem.

"Otherwise I assume 300 mm is enough for the FD and Battery (to the rear junction) and 500mm is enough for the RD? Or is 450mm sufficient?"

I used the following cables:
1x 500mm RD to rear junction (450mm will be too short!)
1x 250mm FD to rear junction
1x 250mm Battery to rear junction
1x 950mm rear junction to front junction

The brifters and extension shifters have pre installed cables.

Have a look at http://www.frankbauer.net/...-neues-triathlonrad/ for more details on my build. Will post some more pictures during the next days.

Wow, thanks for the detailed write-up.

My own inclination right now is to run a Di-2 cable from rear junction to a front wiring harness (like those found on a road set up), attach a second junction box JC-41 to both cables from the harness, and connect the extension shifters (RW671) cables to the junction box. The hope is that i could maybe have the junction box sit inside the steer tube of the fork and the harness inside the stem, though that would require quite a few wires inside the stem. Alternatively, the wiring harness could go into the steer tube and the RJ-41 can go in the stem.

If i can't do full internal routing, i'll probably go with another aerobar set up as the internal routing is the reason to use the Missle Evo.

Btw, when i read your blog about your trips to Limburg, i thought: damn, that quite the trek across the boarder to de Nederlands. I then realized that there's a Limburg in Germany as well. I guess i have the American education system to thank for not knowing geography.

The Ultegra Di2 Front Junction Box (SM-EW67) might fit into the cavity of the stem, yet I am not able to confirm this.
Two things to consider:
1) You cannot charge the internal battery SM-BTR2 with the SM-EW67. You�ll need either the SM-EW90-A or �B to do this. Only external batteries will work with SM-EW67.
2) You will need to have access to the front junction box from time to time to adjust the rear derailleur � Therefore, I would not recommend putting the box into a place that is inconvenient to access.
I don�t know the actual dimensions of the SM-EW67. What I am able to rule out is that it might fit into the fork � at least if you have the rear brake wire routed internally. You might be able to put the JC41s (you�ll need two) into the bull horns of the PRO Missile base bar and the SM-EW67 into the stem. Then again, you would be limited to an external battery and its downsides.

If you prefer to use an internal battery, there are two options I am currently aware of:
1) Front junction box below stem (configuration I use)
2) Front junction box above bottom bracket gusset (see this blog post: http://nyvelocity.com/.../ultegra-di2-tt-hack)

Thanks for that suggestion!

I'll def be running external battery for now, but the promise of a clean front end is alluring. Alluring enough that i'll consider having the EW-67 on the outside in the BB area.

I'll be the first to admit that this whole exercise is akin to Cap'n Ahab hunting the white whale as it is more than just slightly quixotic. I can contently accept defeat when guys beat me by more than three minutes in a 40 km TT on a worse equipped bike ;)

Not wanting to but into the convo but might be worth double checking you are comparng Apples to Apples. The TT frame and the Di2 version of the Premium frame are not the same as far as I know / think.

I thought the TT frame is Di2 specific and fully internal via the stem. I thought the Di2 version of the Premium frame is not fully internal but has one covered cable hole on the drive side and 2 holes for cables on the non drive side.

Sorry if I am wrong and that causes any confusion, just didn't want someone going down one route and it not being right.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com