Loving my new Flo wheels on my TM02[/img]

Absolutely, I do this on all my bikes.

I just had the same problem about a month ago. When I was stomping on the pedals out of the saddle at starts the drive side axle adjuster slipped causing the wheel to lock with non drive side brake pad. Turned out the adjuster screw's threads were stripped. My LBS got me new adjusters for both sides for about 15 bucks.

Hi All

I place my Little note on this bike, I have it since early 2014 and don't know if anyone has already pointed same comments as me, too time consuming to read everything.

I have a TM02 with Ultegra 6800 (10V) on it.
I have almost changed anything on the bike, because stem, aerobar and other works really well for me. I have only switched immediately the saddle replacing the horrible Fizik with a ISM.

The bike works fine even it has some not secondary issues that would maybe prevent me to buy another in future if Need to Change.
1 - the rear brake is a nightmare. Wrongly designed and engineered and horrible to calibrate when you Switch from a wheel to another. Really can't understand why not using the Standard shimano that works perfectly and it's a strong and efficient System. The leverage is horrible, breaking is not safe, calibrating... damn.... cleaning... don't mention it. All These Problem for saving what ? 0.2-0.3Watt ?
2 - the front fork has an insane projec error and it touch the Frame when you turn it more than 45-50 degrees. Infact anyone has this bike has also a damaged painting on the fork where it touch..
If I would be the engineer in Charge of designing this Frame I think I would have been fired >__<

don't like, but it's my opinion, the seat post Fixing System.

in General

nice bike, nice design, good handling (also in technical downhill), confortable, quite fast, Little bit heavy but ok with a couple of not secondary Problems.


all the best

Not sure if this question was asked. Can we see a list of folks with their height along with their inseams for sizes M/S and M/L?

Cheers!

hi guys - mounting some new 25mm wide carbon wheels and im trying to open up the rear calipers more.

so i removed the brake stoppers. that didn't seem to do anything.

Thoughts? I know i can switch to thinner pads but before i do that...

There are washers on the brake pads; did you try removing those? Note you'll have to take the cranks off to access them. If you have a Shimano crank it's actually not that much of a PIA.
You may need to do some pad filing though...

yes i did that - moved all the washers but the concave one.

Oh yes - last night i removed the crank.

it was easy with the shimano fortunately. speaking of which - what was i to torque the crank arm too?


So it sounds like shaving is what needs to happen. When you say pad filing - are you actually filing or just riding it out until it clears?


I applaud those who regularly switch from alum to carbon for race days. My carbon clinchers are staying on train and race!

- Regarding crank torque, you use that plastic thing and just hand tighten it. Not sure how much torque on the two bolts but probably about 8-10?
- So I took the pads off and ran them over sandpaper; very coarse sand paper followed by less coarse

I agree with you about training vs race wheels. I ended up getting these 22.5 wide training wheels
http://www.roadbikereview.com/...oy-clincher-wheelset
and also use 23 wide Hed Jet 50's as training wheels. I race with 25 wide Hed 60/disc.
The other key thing for livability is installing in-line brake cable adjusters.

LOL-my poor mechanic dreaded when I switched bars and he had to recable the whole thing again. Note that I reference a mechanic. Cabling these bikes is pro's work.

Twain was spot on with his info (and beat me to the reply).

My new wheels are 23 at the brake track and I think I still have a spacer on each side and no clearance issues. I could be wrong on the spacer though, I'll look later. If you have the spacers out, then you will need to sand down your pads until they fit.

For a Shimano crank, that flower looking preload bolt shouldn't be too tight. Just enough that there isn't lateral movement. The two m5 bolts that clamp the crank spindle after tightening that first adjust typically have the torque marked on them. They need to be fairly tight once the flower bolt thing aligns where they need to be. Previous write-up here.

I am throwing a pair of super light Easton 90mm carbon tubulars on the classifieds because of how tired I got taking off a Rotor 3d+ and doing the brake shuffle every time I was getting ready for an event. Turns out a new wheelset was cheaper than a new frame.

great write up on the shimano crank! Looks like i did everything okay but i did tighten that plastic bolt fairly snug.. hmm - well i have a new crank arriving soon - 53/39 is too much for me and hills. went with the midcompact 52/36 - that said do you believe i will have too much chain? i was running a 12/25 - now a 11/28 53/39 in the front. Shimano DI2 groupset.

BTW what wheels are you running now?

I'm about 6'3" (193cm) I ride a m-l I've almost got it on its limit in regards to seat height, and I've got 60mm spacers on the bar. I know bmc team rider Michael Schaer is 198cm and rides a m-l

It's probably best to error on the long side if you are going to run a steep seat angle. That bike is no fun with a long stem.

Don't worry about what size the pros ride either.

Reaction,

I checked last night and with wheels with a 23mm brake track, I still have a washer on each side (behind the big curved one) and each washer was 1.2mm according to the calipers. The pads don't have much wear, but I wouldn't call them new. The posts for the brake arms are still in place too. I would think a 25mm brake track should fit without any washers besides the big curved ones that should stay in place. It shouldn't take much sanding to have your (trued) wheels fit in there just fine. I also customized a noodle for the brake arm so that mine weren't being pushed in at all.

I posted earlier in this thread about avid brake shoes that are narrower. I also use a different retention bolt so I don't have to take the shoe off to switch pads. I have SRAM 990 brake lever which adjusts the cable length. I run a rear super-9 and a front 808. For training I use a HED Ardennes + which keeps the brake track widths similar.

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Member of FishTwitch - Arriving to T1 alone and watching you go by on the run.
My Blog: http://poseidom.wordpress.com

Can somebody please point me where can I look up the torque spec for the brake pad bolt. Thank you.

Hey guys,

Few questions...
1) Does Campagnolo EPS work with this bike.. the battery compartment seems unique to the Shimano battery?
2) Going to be coming off a Cannondale Slice RS which I was sized wrong for... anyways.. I have a Cannondale SRM which I assume should not be an issue fitting with either a Cannondale 109mm spindle or the SRM specific spindle?

Thanks!

After taking them apart 20+ times, I have it in my head that it's 5nm. If not, that's what I have been using and everything has been hunky dory.

Thank you. Will do.

Love the look! Where is the white color available? Don't see it often....

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Mike

I'm 180cm and bought a M-S in January. It felt ok on the turbo trainer for a month or so before the weather got good enough to take it outside. Realised then it was too small. I replaced the stem and shifted the position and did a few time trials on it but it was never right. I sold it and got an identical bike in M-L for no real difference in price (lucky as f&*k). The M-L instantly felt better, much more stable because I'm no longer hanging over the front wheel. The BMC sizing is a bit strange and I should've checked properly before buying initially. There is quite a big difference in length between the M-S and the M-L.

Just got my bike back from RaceDay Transport after Nationals last weekend.
The BMC piloted me to a 59:19 bike split -- 25.1mph!
This was 69 seconds faster than last year and a lifetime PR (doing these since 1987!)

Changes vs last year:
- Hed Jet 60/25mm vs Hed Jet 50/23mm
- Sampson Stratics bars vs road bars + Hed clip on
- More crosswind on the way out
- Guy drafting me
- Pressure to qualify for World's this time -- luckily, did! 21st in the 45-49AG but rolled up to 7th place in 50-54.
Cozumel -- can't wait!

Thanks BMC!

How many different bar setups have you had on that thing?? It looks great!

I love the look of those Jets. I had to switch to something with metal brake tracks and the budget got me Hadrons instead.

What do you think of the tires? I switched over to them this year and really like them.

- Third set of bars :-)
The Sampsons are awesome; the drops are far forward. They mimic riding in the drops like a road bike very well so it's great for descending.
- Hadn't heard of Hadrons; sweet looking wheels!
- Love Schwalbes. They are easy to mount, light, great ride quality. Contis may be marginally faster but I'm happy with these.

Yeah, I really like the reach on those. 6'4' arms on a 6' body found me doing a couple base bar swaps to get a reasonable amount of reach. Those look really similar to the cheapo Profile Design Ozeros that I ended up with.

Very nice time. Congratulations on qualifying. I saw a couple BMC's there this year. I only saw mine last year.

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Member of FishTwitch - Arriving to T1 alone and watching you go by on the run.
My Blog: http://poseidom.wordpress.com