Picked it up today! P5, Di2, Rotor 3D power meter cranks

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David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

Nice bike!
What size is it?

That is a very sweet set up 54cm

Something like the old C Record Delta Brake would have looked a lot more finished.

54. I previously had a 54 P3 (original) and P3C.

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David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

Nice bike. And that is one rare rear wheel, a clincher AL/carbon zipp 1080 ... But it all looks good!

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Awesome looking bike. What size crank is on your PM? I'm waiting for mine to come in. I ordered 172.5's.

Shane

Thank you. That is an interesting question, and perhaps an ongoing question… I thought I ordered 175's. I test rode it and didn't notice a difference. When I looked at them I see they are 170's. So, one of my new stressors is whether I stick with the 170s, or order a pair of 175's and let them trade them out. Thoughts?

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David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

Hello medic001918 and All,

Beautiful!!

Looking forward to ride reports, especially on new Rotor Power Meter.

Cheers,

Neal

+1 mph Faster

One thing to consider in deciding on crank length... The bottom bracket is significantly lower than a P2 or P3. I have a size 54 P5 with 170 cranks, and I have scraped a pedal several times, with near disastrous results, in the first 1,000 miles (Speedplay pedals). I had a P2C for 4-5 years and never once scraped a pedal with 172.5 cranks. While scraping a pedal may not be a concern on race day on a TT or triathlon course, it does give you something to think about when you are out training.

I only have about 38 miles on my P5 so far. Unfortunately the weather isn't cooperating here in New England and the roads have been horrible, along with the cold. When I have gotten out, I've been using my road bike so I don't cover the P5 in salt and sand. Hoping that with some warmer temps coming, I'll be out on the P5 a lot more.

I was told by Rotor that they hope to fill the backorders for the PM's by the end of April. I'm hoping that date doesn't get pushed back. I'll post some thoughts on the bike and the PM once I have a chance to log some good miles on the bike. Hoping Friday looks as good as they say it might be. I might get out for a metric century or so on it. We will see!

Shane

I just picked up my new P5-6 51cm. I have the fit all dialed in, but one of the extensions on the aerobar has a little bit of play in it. I have checked and re-checked all the bolts and have hand tightened the lockring on the aerobar fully. The left extension still toggles up and down when I am riding. When I look carefully I actually have that lockring tighter (twisted in further) than the one on the right but the extension still moves when in the aero position.

Suggestions?

Hey Seth, just try tightening the collars/locking down even more. I use an adjustable wrench and a rag to avoid scratching them when tightening. Give that a shot and see if it works. If not shoot me an email and we'll try to work out the issue.

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David Byer
Cervélo

I had the same thing happen. I tightened, but ended up making a bit of a redneck shim out of a coke can. Problem solved.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

David, Damon,

What do y'all think about cutting slots in the back of the stem risers, such that they could be removed without recabling?

Dr. B...post that pic of your machine - it looks wicked!!! Well done!!!! ;-) Even for the mini-size!!! ;-) Show off those shifters!!!! Impressive!!!

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_____________________________________________
"It's a line you have to cross to understand."

So here is my P5 with that new Specialized Sitero Pro saddle. Up front is a Profile Karbon Lite cage, not sure though if that one is strong enough.

Hey Jeff,

Thats exactly what I just did on my new build. A single slot at the rear makes switching a spacer/stem riser in or out very easy.

Best
Seth

i recommended that to a buddy, 4 days too late :)

you'd think they would just make them that way, it would add more "simply" to simply faster if one could change that. I know you can ride without the cover on top of stem for the lo, so that makes it easy to find right height and then go lower if need be.

I have a quarq cinqo on my P5. On an external BB I have used the ring adapter to position the cadence magnet. It doesnt look like that will work with the BBright. Are there any alternatives to epoxying the cadence magnet to the frame?

Did that for the same exact purpose...

Double sticky 3M tape

Re cutting a slot in the back of the spacer: You still have to cut the front brake line correct? Do you have hydraulics?

Re the magnet: We have been using a piece of 3M 2-sided foam type tape. It works well. It has a green backing on one side.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Hi campled,

Nice mod job! This certainly frees the aft cables. Wish we had done this. Might make the change in production.

Brandon's right though - the front cable is still captured. We considered adding a slot from there straight back through the steerer hole but I'm not sure what could go wrong with that approach...

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

hollowed front with hinged opening??