Stunning machine.

But I have been told it is a crime to combine hed and zipp wheels on the same bike, kind of like putting matter and anti-matter to close to one another ... matter annihilation might result !

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Can you tell me what parts are different between a 54 P5 and 56 P5? This is going from a 56-3 with the upgrade kit and swapping the 56 frame with a 54. I have discovered the front cover piece is a different size. Are there any other parts that are different? Any help appreciated.

Bartrunner,

If you are ordering the upgrade kit along with the bike, the covers will be part of that kit. So, just order the upgrade kit for the 54cm that you will put it on. Otherwise, the parts are all the same.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Yep best options per Cervelo's whitepaper (page 32). "The main takeaways are: (1) put a horizontal bottle between your arms, (2) add a bottle or two behind the seat, (3) consider top tube storage."

If you plan on having top tube storage, make sure the bag is flush with the height of your stem too. There are a couple CFD images in the whitepaper that show the aero advantage of having one.

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Candice Turner
CEO
XLAB - Aerodynamic Triathlon Accessories
Dawn to Dusk - Off-road Specific Storage Accessories
http://www.XLAB-USA.com http://www.dawntodusk.bike

That 3rd hole was the Cervelo Engineers great idea for the location of a storage compartment for something like a nano inflator and a couple CO2s and tubes. Great idea in theory, however, nobody seems all that interested in actually making the actual box. I'd pay big bucks for somebody to make a light box to fit perfectly in that space below my water bottle...

A question: would you want a storage compartment there if it prevented the use of a downtube bottle cage?

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Ok, slightly off topic but basing on your screen name, are you M20-24?

And do you mind if I ask which shop you bought it from? I ordered my 54 from RideAdvice in mid-late Jan.

I wouldn't mind if it blocked the dt bottle cage. But I think most might as have the security of an extra bottle is always nice. I just race with two due to the frequency of most couse aid stations. I would also love to see a "shiv like) like bb storage accessory for a nice and elegant flat kit/emergency nutrition solution.

Yes

FWIW, I love my Speedpack 480D!

And ideally the compartment above the BB is smaller and I still have the use of my bottle cage, maybe even shaped around the bottom of the cage in the front. I think filing this void may actually help aerodynamics like the bottle does on the P4. It really only needs to be big enough to hold a nano-inflator, 2 CO2s and one compact tube. The 2nd tube can go up under my seat above the rails. Or maybe even just the nano and 1 or 2 CO2s at the bottom and squeeze both tubes under the seat.

For Ironman, I like to keep water in my Speedfil A2 and I use concentrated Infinit for my nutrition on the downtube with a couple of Powerbars and some saltsticks in the 480D on top. To remove the down tube bottle, I'd need to use the on course nutrition which doesn't really sit well with me.

Very interested regardless of how it affects bottle cage.

Now what would be really cool is if it integrated (or was built around) a standard bottle cage. It would probably have some negative effect on drag, but if done right you might be able to make it marginal and have the best of both worlds for those you want to use a down tub bottle.

Lots of possiblilities and I hope someone is developing it now as they have a lot of people wanting one.

I purchased 56 frame and 56 upgrade kit. I ended up having to switch to a 54 frame as the 56 would not allow me to get to the stack I needed. Shop just swapped the 56 frame with a 54 frame and just kept the 56 upgrade kit. Curious what parts of a 56 upgrade kits are different than a 54?

Just the "beard" -or the part that hangs down from the handlebar - is size-specific. PM and we can see about getting you the right one.

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David Byer
Cervélo

I finally figured out loading pics and thought I would post my solution to Garmin Mount and Di2 at brakes.

The following e-mails are pictures of the cockpit of my p5. My LBS did the work cutting the buttons and housing off a di2 brake and used double stick tape for now to attach to the magura housing. The nice part is there is no hack of the cables since the wring harness is set up for the connector already. I did talk to Jo Lawn as we took our bikes out of transition in Vegas and if I did not do it this way I would use the cateye buttons like she did but you need someone really good at soldering tiny wires and I still like the original shimano buttons much better.

I did the garmin mount myself. Just went to home depot and bought a standard price of galvanized steel strap about a foot long and about an inch wide. I didn't cut it at all. I just bent it into a circle after drilling a hole in the middle and wrapped it in electrical tape. You can see that I then mounted it around the bottle cage.











I'm still waiting for a P4-like solution above the BB but the bike is mostly ready to go.

Carl Hefflefinger

I would prefer that it does not block it

A valid preference. But the problem is getting a decent-sized pack on the P5 in that spot, and getting the pack to be aero, flush, and totally secure but only being held on by one bolt on the horizontal BB gusset.

You really need to utilize at least the lower bottle boss bolt, plus the gusset boss bolt, to get a secure fit of an adequately-sized pack. Or so it seems.

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Why not just have an attachment bar/piece that runs up to the bottle cage mounts to help secure it and still allowing you to put a cage over it. Or go with the idea of an integrated bottle cage where the bottle and storage unit get as flush as possible together and gives you best of both worlds? Many would be against this though as it would be slower than a typical bottom bracket box design. But tons more function from a refil/ course aid strand point

My bike is finally done (for now). Just added a quarq elsa (NEW) to it today and had my LBS wire up custom Di2 shift buttons on the brake levers! Looking forward to IM Madison.

Here is what we did on the Di2 buttons...for those looking to do the same:

1. We started by cutting and stripping two Di2 extension cables and two sets of buttons made by Cateye.



2. Next the wires were soldered together and heat shrinked to prevent separation and moisture.



3. We added a layer of heat shrink tubing over the whole thing as another layer of protection.



4.Fished the existing Di2 Wires through the basebar to the brake levers.



5. Next we connected the two Di2 connectors and covered the join with heat shink tubing to make them water tight



6. Finally we attached the buttons to the brake levers, placed the excess wire in the bars and re-wrapped the basebar



Here is the final product with the buttons for both the front and rear derailleurs in place.



All work done by Brian Jacobson and Peter Barson of Running Away Multisport in Deerfield, IL (847) 945-2929. These guys rock, couldn't be nicer, price was reasonable and turned it around for me in less than 24 hours. Rode it on the trainer tonight and the shifting works flawlessly. Buttons work great for me on a ride like IM Wisconsin where there are a fair amount of hills and I'll be on the base bar a bunch.

I've been debating about removing the decals from the 808s and going naked. Thoughts?

I did my DIY brake lever shifters without cutting or soldering.
From my previous Dura Di2 set, I just opened the brake lever/shifters & retained the shifting pods.
Fabricarted a base that held it with the 2 shifter pads from an old Cateye computer.
Shrink wrapped it & used double adhesive to the Magura levers.
No cut or soldering, used the same harness connections which I can reinstall to the old Shimano levers if needed.


A bit bulky but too tired to make a new slimmer base shape.
It more or less has the same bulk (a bit smaller) as in the original Shimano brake lever/shifters.

I have a question about adjusting the rear caliper of the Magura brake. In going from a standard H3 to a Jet disc, I need to widen the calipers a lot to fit the disc. My question is whether I need to be careful in how far I unscrew the adjustment screw in the lever. Will something bad happen if it comes out completely, and/or is it not possible to unscrew it completely?

jmhtx,

I hope you don't mind if I jump in here as Damon is on the road. There is a limit to how far you can unscrew the adjuster. If you go past that limit, it will pull out and, well, just don't do that. You are safe as long as the screw is staying within the lever body. Take a look at the last photos in the post above yours. Campled has his limit about as far out as you can go.

The Magura Calipers have little shims between the brake shoe and the caliper arm. If you are going from a narrow training wheel to a wider race wheel, you can remove those spacers and get a lot more clearance (those Magura guys are pretty smart). And then, of course, you can adjust accordingly with the adjustment screw at the lever.

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David Byer
Cervélo

I did the reverse with my set up.
Used the wider FC wheels for pad width set-up and adjust to make it smaller for standard wheels.
The allen screw had enough range to adapt to the thinner wheels.