Perfect. Good thing is the 11sp DI2 p5's (I'm told) come with the 5 port junction box. I overnighted a pair of R671's to myself and will be doing a modified hack on Wednesday and will post my feedback. Sale price on a pair of 671's is about the same as buying two R600's so I'm sticking to trying the TT shifters for this one.

While I've got your attention, any concern for the cateye buttons coming loose with time/heat/moisture? Just thinking I should come up with another way to secure them to the Maguras beyond the peel away sticky that comes on the back of the buttons.

well, shop called it vynl, but since magnet was sticking, I was confused.

is the bottom cover UCI legal? ie if I put magnet there, will I be removing it to place elsewhere when time comes?

I will get bearing adjusted/replaced by shop and then move magnet

Hi Jeff,

I can understand your question well. Now that I live where UCI rules are regularly enforced, I personally know they matter to many more athletes than many Americans assume. ;-)

To be clear, the P5 rear brake cover is UCi legal. It meets the requirements outlined starting on page 35 in the UCI's "CLARIFICATION GUIDE OF THE UCI TECHNICAL REGULATION" found under the "Equipment" link on the UCI's home page, http://www.uci.ch.

Quote:

The addition of a cover to a braking system, as shown in the image below, is authorised. The unit is considered to be integrated with the frame or fork.

[photo of BMC road bike front brake with cover -DGR]
Figure 54: Brake integrated with the fork and fitted with a cover

The combination of the frame tube (or fork tube) + brake + cover must respect the 1:3 rule, as well as the minimum and maximum dimension rules and must be contained completely within the corresponding 8 cm box.

What is the “corresponding 8 cm box”?
For rear brakes, attached to the seat stays/chain stays, the combination of the seat stay/chain stay tube + brake + cover must fit inside the 8 cm box of the seat stays/chain stays.

End quote.

Source: http://www.uci.ch/...Nzg4OTM&LangId=1

The P5's rear brake cover meets the above requirements. The P5 frame is UCI approved with the rear brake cover in place.

So feel free to play around with mounting a Quarq magnet there if you like.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

thanks, makes it easier to not worry exactly about how it is attached in there

you folks never tested the magura brakes rotated 90 deg in a narrow arm position. I tried it last night on a windy venue, riding slowly, and think there may be a difference :)

I know the white paper showed arms pushing air down there, but my arms are nowhere near the levers

The Aduro bar (no spacers or top dust cap being used) rubs against the two-part plastic pass-through cover when steering is turned to far left or right. Is this normal?

Are you folks using the covers? One would appear to get a wider steering movement if not but is that even necessary? My bike has Magura & Di2, in case that matters.

Hi hgv,

The two-part plastic cover is intended for when you use ordinary stems, not the Aduro. It should be left off when using the Aduro so you get full steering range. Sweet - saved you a few grams. ;-)

Incidentally, the two-part plastic cable cover also fits the new Cervelo P3 model - it and the P5 share dimensions in this area. Likewise the Aduro also fits and is fully compatible with the new P3.

Cheers,

Damon

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Alrighty. I'll take it out then.

Out of curiosity, is there an assembly manual or instructions I could have read this from?

Hi hgv,

Good question - made me look in the manual:
http://www.cervelo.com/...b-c6c28594836d-0.pdf

Nope, not there, sorry! No reason you would have guessed this; glad you asked.

(I suspect the info isn't there because the two-part cable cap was not yet available when the manual was written. We will definitely add this in the next revision.)

Thanks,

Damon

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Damon,
Are there any issues with using saddles that have oversized rails? Specifically specialized saddles?

Ben

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Hi nebmot,

The P5 seat post head uses the increasingly common Ritchey metal parts.



http://www.ritcheylogic.com/...cd175c105716b7ac36ed

Different parts to fit rail dimensions 7x7mm, 8x8.5mm or 7x9.6mm are not included with the bike, but are available through your Cervelo retailer (or just about any bike shop).

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks for these awesome instructions! I have one question, though.

I suppose the SW-R610 set needs dedicated control boards to work but could one use them as switches instead of the CatEye buttons?

The r610s are analog buttons. They rely on the st-9070 road shifters to act as a middle point to turn their signal into a digital signal. The TT shifters do not have an auxiliary port for ten to plug into so they will not work out of the box with the system but should be able to act as a momentary switch to trigger the shift if wired as I did the 9071 shifters.

I have ran the cat eyes for all of last season with no issues on di2 7970. I don't expect any with 9070.

The only suggestion I have is to take a small piece if double sides tape and place it in between the inner button (on the circuit board) because they can pop off of the holder if you catch them right.

Bam - did it work? See my post to hgv regarding the button reliability.

I did the work today for the 9070 Bullhorn shifter hack and gave the completed hack to my dealer. The internal circuitboard of the R671 was identical to the pics you posted so unless my sodering job was sub-par I expect it to work. I have pics I will post of the splicing and sodering steps since this in my opinion was the more difficult step. Your pics made the rest a total breeze. Once I confirm full functionality, I'll let the forum know, probably this weekend. But for now I can tentatively say going with the SW-R671 pair for the hack will save people $200+ vs the brake levers. Can't wait to get this bad boy running!

Is there a specific connection point that causes the creaking/clicking at the front end? I notice it every time I am on the bull horns climbing, but there's also a slight "click" noise every time I move my hands from braking and then back to the aerobars. Basically every time I apply any weight to the bull horns and then remove it.

I checked with local LBS mechanic and he said it's noticeable on most. Not a very big deal, but I was wondering if it's a quick torque issue or something else simple?


Thanks.

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http://toddbyers.blogspot.com/ | @ToddByers

I am planning on doing my hack this weekend. Was wondering if you used anything special to heat protect the circuit board during soldering? what type of solder did you use? and insight or tips? I have soldered many a wire but circuit baords are brave new ground for me
cheers

TB,

I was just speaking with our resident P5 Triathlete and tech specialist Jakub about the possible cause of the creek. So far, we've only heard one other reported case that sounds like yours and it is very recent. My best bet, and this is not P5 or Aduro specific, is that a little grease in the right spot will solve the issue.

I would try the top cap first; the one under the cover that pre-loads the head set. I know that on my road bike, if I ride in the rain, I can develop a creaking sound here when I am out of the saddle and going uphill. The remedy; remove the head set top cap and put a little bit of grease around the under side outer edge where it contacts the top of the stem and re-install.

I know that on a P5, you will spend a lot more time over the stem. So it is possible that sweat/sport drink can be the culprit if you haven't been in wet conditions; especially if you are on the trainer to do some of your sessions.

Please let us know if that suggestion helps. The next step would be to clean out between your spacers (if you have them) and even apply a little grease there. I'm sure that Damon will agree that there is nothing wrong with a little extra grease!

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David Byer
Cervélo

this may help solve my road bike creaking which was driving me nuts yesterday. greased everything on front end, but that spot, last night

Thanks! Like I said, it's not a very big deal, but if I can grease something to fix it, then I'd want to do it.

Also not a big deal, but I might as well ask: Have you seen any issues of the front brake covers getting stuck on the beard after engaging the brake? It seems to only occur when using wider Zipp FC wheels when the brakes are opened up. The cover gets caught on the way back in, just before it gets back to the original position. Mine is occurring on the non-drive side where the brake cover has the slight lip on it...It's catching the lip.

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http://toddbyers.blogspot.com/ | @ToddByers

TB,

Hmmm... haven't heard of the beard/cover interference but the beards are size specific (for the frame) so it is possible we sent the wrong one. Check to see all of the little bolts are in place and snug as well. If it is still hitting, feel free to PM me with what size you ride and a measurement of the beard to I can make sure that you have the right one.

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David Byer
Cervélo

I was noticing a catching / clicking on my ride the other night as well. I'm riding with wide HED Stinger (tubular) wheels, and the brakes are opened up wide - so wide in fact, that rather than take out the ovalized washer (used for angling the brake pads) I took a file to my carbon brake pads and removed a mm from all of them to give me good clearance. The brakes are catching somewhere - I have not had a chance to look really closely yet, but will investigate soon. Troubleshooting ideas welcomed, thanks.

He's an interesting product from Profile Design that *might* help those of us looking for a computer (in my case a Garmin watch) mount solution for the P5.

http://www.profile-design.com/.../aero-hc-system.html

Has anyone tried this? I don't really care about the bottle, but am interested in the bracket that has an integrated cage / computer mount with the computer mount behind the cage. Rather than stick my watch out front with a between-the-aero-bars type mount (such as this one from 3T - http://www.3tcycling.com/...omputer-mount-bridge), I want to try it behind the bottle.

Questions I have:

• Does the part with the computer mount separate from the rest of the assembly so that it can bolt directly into the two "cage" bolt holes in the Aduro bars? This system comes with a mounting system to Velcro attach it between the two aero bars, and I would like to use the integrated bolt holes in the Aduro bars.
• Will the computer mount sit above / not interfere with the Aduro bar High-V arm pad support?
• Anyone know if you can buy this without the bottle?

Feedback? If nobody knows, I'll try to contact Profile Design.

Thanks in advance - Doug

It easier if you tin the wire with solder before you make the connection to the board. There is a really thin layer of coating on the board so don't worry if you see a tiny piddle where it melts. Just don't hold the gun tip on there long and you will be fine. Also take the time and make sure the connection is solid to prevent issues. It might be easier to have someone be your third hand too.

Also the insulation on the wire will melt really fast if you aren't quick with the solder.

I didn't use any particular lead mix, it was just what I had laying around.

What is the torque spec for the 4 bolts that hold the High V section onto the aduro bar base?

Hi
Also looking for same thing
Jono