I have the Alpha X on my IA, and I love it. If I were buying now, and it were available, I would get the new Alpha. One of the minor details about the basebar I like is that it has a rough grip at the brakes, which means I do not use bar tape. It looks really good. And supposedly, it is one of the most aero.

If the frame comes with an uncut steerer tube, then you can pick your stems at will. If it is cut, then you are pretty much constrained to the Tririg stems (Sigma or Alpha integrated) and the Felt stems. I do not like the base Felt stem, but the Dagger is pretty cool.

What drivetrain are you running? I assume you will go electric, but which flavor (eTap or Di2)? If Di2, hiding the junction box and wires are manageable. If eTap, then you want to think about where you will put the humungous Blip Box. I would consider this in the front end choice as well.

Both of those frame 'modules' come with felt bars already, don't they? Any particular reason you are switching?

Great point! The IA1 & IA FRD come with the Dagger stem and Devox base bar. It even has the carbon f-bend extensions. You would have to spend a lot of cash to improve on the Devox basebar. On the flip side, you could sell the base bar and do pretty well.

Wouldn't the Tririg bar option be more valid for the IA10 frame set? Together with Tririg brakes you would probably get a more user friendly bike at a lower price.

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Personal best:
Ironman 9:22:02
Ironman 70.3 4:20:00

I don't want to wait for the Alpha One and I technically the Alpha X has less drag. I was going to talk to Felt about the Dagger stem and that is one Josh A. use with his Zipp Bar. What stem are you running now? If I can get the TriRig stem flush it seems like a very good option.

I just picked up a eTap on cyber Monday at 25% off but still am considering Di2 (which i have on my other 2 bikes). Will switch to 165 cranks (Steve Jackson has talked me into this) and prob go with a quarq Dzero.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Larger air foil (which is debatable if it is faster of not) and ability to tilt which is not present on current felt bar.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

I am still considering this option as well. Its def the most cost effective. I do wonder how many grams of drag you give up going this route, seem to have read some places it almost none. I do give up some weight on the frame. One of my goals was to get this bike under 21.5lbs (if possible)

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

I don't believe you can put a standard stem (zipp, TR) on the IA1 fork. It's an integrated stem design that mates to the base bar.

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the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

this IMO is a must for any Felt IA. The bike is just not long and low enough with the OEM +6 stem on there. With the -17 Dagger it gets a little better.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Those are pro only stems that are not available to the public.

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Make Inside Out Sports your next online tri shop! http://www.insideoutsports.com/

Just bought one from Felt's website. It was a straight swap with the OEM stem... no maintenance or adjustments needed.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

I have the Alpha X with its integrated stem on my IA16. That sits pretty flush, but it does not match the integrated shape of the frame-- only the stock stem does that.

You should be able to get a good mount that can cleanly attach the blip box to either the top of the stem (there is a screw hole) or the underside of the BTA plate.

Interesting. I remember Felt saying they made Carfrae a custom stem to use her bars and it wasn't available to the public. Perhaps they listened to people who wanted more options.

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Make Inside Out Sports your next online tri shop! http://www.insideoutsports.com/

You should be able to get under 20 lbs. The IA16 is 20.4 lbs., according to Felt's website. I cut nearly 3 lbs. from my bike just with the carbon wheels, carbon cockpit, crankset, and a few other minor savings. If you are building with high-end going in, you will be well below 20 before adding pedals, PM, and running gear.

That would be fantastic, my current SC is 20.8lbs (no nutrition no water bottles)

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Straight up swap, well that seem like the easiest solution then. Can pretty much any any base bar be mounted to the dagger then?

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

yes, but just to be clear, the dagger stems fit the IA bike with double digits (10/16) and not the IA1 or the FRD. sorry if you already knew this, but you specifically stated the FRD in your original post.

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the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Good to know! No I am posting all this since I am trying to learn the Felt. Most things on the bike pretty straightforward but the front end is looking like a bit of a challenge.

Question with the Dagger: Josh is on a FRD and has a dagger stem and whats really confusing to me is Felt lists the "dagger stem" coming on the FRD and IA1 Framesets but they don't look right? What am i missing?

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Check out pages 31 & 32 in the owners manual: https://www.feltbicycles.com/...IA_Owners_Manual.pdf

The bike looks like it has a normal steerer tube and front end. But, the factory stem and basebar are proprietary and interated. Where it might get off is the look of the front nose cone that covers the brake and how it visually ties into the underside of the stem. It might be fine with another stem, but hard to guess. If you google around, you can find some pictures of alternate stems and bikes with the upper cone removed.

You cannot use a regular stem and bars with the IA1 or FRD. It is a proprietary front end.

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Brian Jacobson
Fit2Ride Velo Studio
http://www.fit2ridevelo.com

I'm not sure either to be honest. the FRD comes with a dagger base bar that mates to the integrated dagger stem. The double digit IA models come with a non-integrated dagger stem that would accept anything 31.8. you can see the difference clearer in the international store:

https://www.felt-stuff.com/...athlon-tt/ia-dagger/

As another poster mentioned, the front fork/brake cable cover has two M3 (?) bolts that fix it to holes on either side of the integrated dagger stem.

Looking at pictures of Josh's bike, he seems to have a zipp basebar on there, but also the cover fixed to the font. so he either has the non-integrated dagger with the cover glued/taped on, or the base bar is felt but with zipp painted on (unlikely) or something else.

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the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

I'm 99% sure that is not correct. You can run the dagger stem (http://www.feltbicycles.com/...IA-Dagger-Stems.aspx) on an IA FRD and IA1. Look at the holes on the dagger stem where the front brake cover tabs would be. The IA10 or 16 do not have a front brake cover that mates with this dagger stem.

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blog

I'm 99% sure this is incorrect. You can use the felt dagger stem... http://www.feltbicycles.com/...IA-Dagger-Stems.aspx

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blog

You are correct. I haven't sold Felt for the past year and this is a new stem so you can use non-integrated bar with the IA and still have the brake cover. However, it is only offered in a 110mm -16deg configuration so the aerobar needs to be able to adjust to the riders position. It would be nice if they offered it in a few different lengths.

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Brian Jacobson
Fit2Ride Velo Studio
http://www.fit2ridevelo.com

wow you are right, I never even noticed the little holes for the brake cover. it's probably what JA is using:

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the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Get an SRM and a PC8 already

Not making 165 cranks yet!

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

You might be able to find a SRM Dura Ace 9000 from Backcountry or R&A Cycles in 165mm, might have to get 53/39 separate. If you’re waiting on The SRM Origin with 9100 ring...I don’t blame you..that thing looks like it came from Tiffany’s.

LOL.......... yea will prob just keep it simple with the Dzero, even though I do admit SRM is still the gold standard!

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Yes they do!!

I’ll sell you one.

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blog

Don’t pass up this ^^^^offer, when I bought my SRM DA9000 165’s, I bought it direct and still had to wait 10 weeks. It’s the best Powermeter investment. The refurbishment process isn’t as painful as people make it when you need a new battery.

I buy new bike parts!!!! lol, but I do buy used wheels! ......Steve just wants a reason to buy a new power meter thats only reason he is selling.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

i still don't understand why you are switching from the SC.

do you really think all this time and money is going to be worth it? what do you think you'll save on an IM course?

spend the money on a yoga membership to ensure you don't get injured... the sc is plenty fast for you.

More than likely will lose time because the Speed Concept is as fast as the P5. Felt IA is slower than both at low yaw. It could be a wash though...

Since he's on Team EMJ and they have a Felt deal....well that's probably why he is switching. The team, sense of belonging, and feeling like you have to support the team sponsors can make you spend lots of money.

It would be really funny to spend all that money and actually go slower. Do it for the team though!

Some people like switching bikes a lot though I never understood that.

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Make Inside Out Sports your next online tri shop! http://www.insideoutsports.com/

Let's be real here though. It's "slower" but not by a whole lot. The impact of minor differences in equipment is vastly exaggerated. Also, I can't recall ever seeing an IA compared to a speed concept. Is that data out there?

Some ideas. Last year's project. Paint it black! ;) Fully integrated cables through risers (which allows for a EW-RS910 bar end junction integration in extension). Brakes are a pain in the ass (fixed that problem with a couple of helicoidal springs adding more tension to the weak stock springs). Flo Wheels. 1X...

What gearing is your 1x? Is that a 'medium' cage ultegra rear der?
Thx

That looks really good!

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

I run eTap and the blip box is currently velcro'd to the inside of the frame, underneath the Calpac.
Presently, I have Alpha X bars fitted, but as highlighted earlier, you can't secure the nose cone properly, so mine is held on with black Gaffer tape!
If I can get hold of one of those Dagger stems (in UK), the TriRig set up is getting the boot!

Where did you get your aftermarket brake springs? Do you have a part number I could source?

Just a question on your set up... You went to lot of trouble to hide all the cabling, yet you run the first section, from the bar end shifters, outside the bar.
When I ran Di2, I found the cable connectors would push through the centre of the expander joints, and run straight through the the extension...

Tidy bike, I'm going to dee if I can go back to the IA base bars...

The best thing to do is actually to grind the tabs off of the top of the felt top nose section, glue in a "top" with a little nub in it that will fit into the hole in the TriRig, and then fiberglass/carbon the top and bottom parts together. It works great. I have done it for a few people.

I had thought of 'tweaking' the nose section to work with the TriRig set up, but want to keep it as original, so I can revert when selling it on...

Actually this pictures were just for show... I was selling my bike and the Ultegra Di2 8050 was an option.

I have been using a 1X setup with and Ultegra Di2 Medium Cage rear derailleur, SRAM 1x chainrings, Wolftooth's Roadlink Adapter and and an 11-36 or 11-32 Sram cassette. In my experience, tt works fairly well, yes, but not flawlessly AND since the derailleur does not have a clutch, chain has come off a couple of times in very rough terrain. This has happened only twice in one year of (a lot of) riding but it happened once during a race. Was not happy.

Found out the best solution was an XT Di2 MTB rear derailleur. Perfect shifts, absolutely flawless, no adapters required and it has a clutch so chain stays in place... highly recommended.

About the cables... bar tape was still missing. I wanted the neater, more naked look for the pictures (I was selling the bike).

About the springs... no aftermarket "brake" springs. Just some standard helicoidal springs of the right size just like the ones in the picture below . I fit them below the cable stopper so when the brake is released they give some additional power for the brake to open. It is a simple solution but it totally solved the poor return problem of these brakes for me. They were being a total pain in the ass... even the front brake!

You where dead on about the "Dagger" stem. I think where there is some confusion is that not all "dagger" stems are the same. I talked with Felt yesterday and the rep I was talking to said that. Current one is like you said 110mm and -17 drop making the bike longer and lower and can accept all base bars that are 31.8mm. Leaving me with option of Zipp Vuka, but I don't know how adj that bar is in terms of moving in forwards and back to dial in reach.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

You can't get the TR Alpha X stem on without having to tape nose cone? Did you shave off those tabs? If you replaced the Alpha X what bar would you go to?

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Any pics by any chance? I am scarred to move forward with a Alpha X till i can actually see one thats been done.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

If you are scared, you should enlist the help of someone who isn't.

Confidence is everything when trying to piece together perfection from parts that were not meant to go together.

That said, I own 2 sets of Alpha X, and 2 sets of Ventus 2s, none of which are on my Felt IA. The original bars are plenty Aero as long as you replace the original bottom bolts with something that is a bit cleaner than stock.

I am scarred of order parts/bars that then don't end up like how i want them. Guess in perfect world I would get the zipp vuka + dagger stem and the TriRig and play with both of them. But I would rather just order one or the other. I am trying to find others that have done one or the other or both to see how everything works together. Confidence is not everything, proper planning is everything. Just trying to get a good plan.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

It is if you get the tilted custom spacer kit. If you search the forum you will find the mnf, i can’t remember the name right now but i had it on my ia frd.

Jeroen

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

The IA dagger stem sounds like what you need. It's funny there's still confusion these are 'pro only', they haven't been that way since the the first half-year the IA came out, and before that with the DA. Everything I have on my bike can be purchased.

I think the Vuka Aero can accommodate heaps of reach options. Obviously extensions are going out or in as required, but you can actually clamp the arm pad in different position along the extensions in increments either side of the extension clamp. You don't have to just drop the arm pad inside the extensions clamp. You can also reverse the arm pad mount as I do to bring the pads narrower, to the point that they the can touch in the middle. The low stack mounts are what I'm using, which can't pitch, so I just pitch upward from the basebar, which is what the Vuka Aero is designed to do. I believe the airfoil of the basebar can accommodate pitch upwards of 10 degrees without aero compromise. But the regular mounts can pitch upward too. I also put some washers under the front screw of the arm rest to pitch the arm rest itself.

If you have any more questions on what you can and can't do I'll come back to the thread in the coming days.

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http://www.josh-amberger.com/

©BrakeThrough Media


©BrakeThrough Media



©BrakeThrough Media

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http://www.josh-amberger.com/

What are you using for a computer mount on those zipp bars? Can’t quite make it out in the photos.

Thanks

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blog

I have looked long and far for how to get your exact setup, I always noticed your pitch in the pads and aha!!

So you just use a few washers under the front screw on the pads?

great problem solving with your front end... both as a fitter and as an athlete with a similar position. If it were me I'd level the basebar (regardless of the anecdote you cited) and use more washers to achieve the tilt you're looking for.

Next I'd put SRAM R2C shifters on the ends of your extensions, not for shifting obviously as you have the eTap but as a place for the heels of your hands to dig into when you get into your shrugged and turtled position... they're a little bit wider than the extensions themselves and it's really helpful to have something pushing back at the ends of your extensions.

Anyway, thanks for posting... cool to see the Dagger stem in operation on an IA FRD. I'm installing them on all my clients with Felts these days.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Didn't shave tabs off, but there's nowhere to attach the upper nose section to, without taping.
I'm going to get the Dagger base bar and probably the Zipp Vuka.

Thanks for the suggestions. If the reasoning behind the tilt on my Vuka Aero is an anecdote, can I call your story about added comfort with R2C shifters on an eTap setup an anecdote? :p

PS, my story is not an anecdote :)

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http://www.josh-amberger.com/

touché. Anyway, instead of using buttons I use the normal blips glued into the underside of the R2C shifters. For clients, the EVO 110s are great for the added rise.

something else I'm trying are angled pads made in the UK.... Wattshop I believe is the maker. Still haven't mounted them... using washers like you.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Besides Wattshop, who make armrests with a 20 degree angle, or will custom make one offs, there is also a mate, Jason Swann, who prints angles spacers for quite a few different bar options.
I've had Jason spacers for my old Canyon and my present Alpha X set up.

Do you need/ get a low profile bearing cover with the Dagger?

Bearing cover as in headset top cap? Yes :)

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http://www.josh-amberger.com/

I'm going to say no... installed a dagger with no bearing cover. The underside of the Dagger stem is recessed, and acts as the bearing cover.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Great, thank you. 👍

I don't believe the basebar drag does not increase with a significant angle of attack. An inclined aerofoil will produce lift and associated drag until stall at which point the drag will increase significantly. It's quite possible it remains unstalled up to 10 degrees or more so the compromise may not be huge but I'm sure there is a compromise.

Difficult to see for sure, but are your Di2 cables exiting the side of the extension clamp, then entering the side of the riser block. Then exiting bottom edge of riser and entering the top cap? Did you drill/ dremel the risers?... Very neat set up.

YUP, that's exactly how I did it. I drilled extensions, risers and top cap :) Very, very clean setup indeed.

That is bad ass! Nice Job. You should get the new cal pack and switch out the extension clamps with the V3 version.

Well done!

Once I'm happy with my set up, I'll nail the wiring on my eTap 👊🏼

Post pictures when you are done. :) Looking forward to seeing the closeups of a good, custom, hidden eTap setup on an IA.

Will do 👍🏼

I do love the black!!!! I was thinking about a wrap but was under the gun with time so stuck with the stock paint, which looks amazing on the FRD this year.

Build is almost done, I went with a tri rig front end, but LBS having some difficulty with it currently getting everything flush.... Sorry I should say they have solutions that have not been implemented yet and may involve some 3d printing.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Are you talking about the transition from the Alpha X stem to the Calpac area? I am very interested in what you do. That is the one aesthetic flaw on mine. It has not been a high priority, but it would be cool to have some kind of insert that matches the shape of the OE Felt IA stem.

Issue is with the gap between the break cover and and the bottom of the Alpha X stem. Tried to instal the slim dust free cover but mechanic was not happy with that one since it left some of the bearings exposed. So have thicker dust cover now. Either way very noticeable gap between stem and break cover.

Will be back tomorrow starting fit process so can post some pics of current situation. If I cant find a good solution can always go back to dagger stem and zipp bar for a clean set up.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Oh yeah...I forgot you are doing the ultra frame. Yeah, that must be elegantly solved.

Just FYI, even if some of the bearing is exposed, it shouldn't be an issue as long as you aren't doing every ride in the forest of Ardennes during rainy season. In some cases, riders forego dust covers all together, in order to hit their fit needs. Guys like Craig Alexander who put in more miles than most of us would care to dream of. If you do any regular maintenance on your bike, you'll never have a problem.

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TriRig.com

My LBS does most of my maintenance, but I don't feel like replacing bearings every 6 months, no thank you. Not finding fit amazing yet with the Alpha X, but I do really like the bar and will work with it to get a ideal fit. Back up option still Felt Dagger stem and Zipp bar.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

For what it’s worth, I’ve never once heard of a customer needing a bearing replacement while using our ultra-low dust covers. And we have shipped quite a few of them (with Alpha X, with Sigma X, and as separate purchases).

By regular maintenance, I mean things like cleaning/regreasing your bearings once a year. Not replacing them.

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TriRig.com

Here in ATX, much of the year is hot and very humid, and there is an absolute ton of sweat the drops onto the stem area on a 5 hour ride, of which we do every weekend. That much sweat will cause severe degradation of any exposed bearing system.

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"Only those who risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go." T.S. Elliot | Cycle2Tri.com
Sponsors: SciCon | | Every Man Jack

A bit 'council', I know, but last season I just cut a strip of black gaffa tape down and stuck that around the top of the front brake fairing, which covered that gap nicely.
Now removed the tririg Alpha X and returned to the OE cockpit ;)

Sounds like a design flow, I was leaning towards getting the bar but exposed bearings? What’s your main issues with fit?

Our Ultra-Low Dust Covers have a shallow wrap on the side. They will always cover the TOP of the bearing, which is where the seals are, and where you really want to protect against contaminants. Depending on how much of your bearing protrudes from the head tube, our Ultra-Low Dust Cover may cover most of the side of the bearing, or leave 1-2mm visible. This shouldn't ever significantly affect your bearing performance.

Again, we have NEVER heard of a bearing compromised due to the use of our Ultra-Low Dust Cover. I think the issue is misunderstood in this thread.

We deliberately designed the cover with its current amount of side wrap, in order to ensure that the cover would work for the widest possible variety of bikes.

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TriRig.com

For the 54 frame I needed to get lower and little longer. Have 3 options: move to a size 51 (reach becomes little bit of issues), Tri Rig bar and stem, or Felt Dagger stem with zipp bar. The zipp/Dagger is looking like the cleanest and easiest set up. Working with shop now to 3d print a wedge to fit where there is a gap from bar to break cover. If I can’t correct issue will go back to Dagger/Zipp combo.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

 

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

I'm playing catchup... so you're showing us a Felt IA with TriRig bars but you now need a place to hang the beard from right? Or does the beard "stand" on the brake cover? The gap is not all that horrible IMO.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

LBS (AustinTriCyclist) got the dust cap where it covered all the bearings. Dropped bars as much as they could. still this small gap, its not bad. Next step is 3D printing this part to fill in rest of gap. I could easily put some black duct tape there as well, ghetto style. Tin foil maybe, Gerlach style? I do like the bars, myself and Brandon Marsh spent a long time fiddling with the bar yesterday trying to get the tilt adapter right, but finally got everything to fit together. When you place it with water bottle bracket it covered the place we put the blimp box, so need to find a place for that now.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Ok so almost finished, only thing left is finding a spot for blip box.
Fit courtesy of Brandon Marsh in Austin Tx, along with contributions from some great guys here on ST: Goal was to copy fit from Trek SC and get my hands a little higher then they where. Still might move pads forward a few mm and seat down a few mm.
Built courtesy of AustinTriCyles in Austin Tx.
Final weight: 18.14lbs

Parts:
TriRig front end with 3D printed insert from ATC
Sram Etap with Rotor 53/39 rings 165 cranks 11-26 rear cassette
Zipp Evo 110 Extension (still hoping to get my hands on Matt 51 speed shop extensions)
Enve 7.8 wheels with custom team decals
SLF RD OS Pulleys
Quarq D-Zero Power Meter

Thank you for all the people here that helped contribute to this build and helped with the finding the right size frame.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

I've followed this build and I think it's incredible. Where did you end up putting your blip box?
Thank you.

its in the calpac

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

I am installing the alpha one. I was curious if anyone has figured out about the front cover and if I take of the tabs.. how to mount

Willing to do it again?

Where can I get parts for my felt ia frd triathlon bike 2015 frame! Need the stem ! STEM IA 31.8
Felt doesn’t have crap not even in Europe! Send more than 6 e-mails to felt distributor parts not even one answer! Did they go bankrupt?

These are some of the reasons I don’t ride a felt anymore

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Try to hit up that shop, great distributor (but in Europe)
https://edelrad.de/

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-shoki

Do you need the stock stem? I’ve got one if so. Send me a PM. I just built my IA16 and swapped the stem for a Dagger 110, and I’m definitely not going to need the stock 90mm/6 degree stem.

ETA: sorry, just noticed you said IA FRD. Mines from an IA16. Not an integrated stem.

Thanks anyway! Need stem for felt IA FRD- 2015 bike!! Also seatpost felt IA FRD!

Building out my IA Disc. Size 48, I'm 4'11" and the seatpost runs into the internal water bottle holder hardware on the seat tube before getting it to the right saddle height for me. Damn my short legs. Anyone attempt to cut the seattube. I would have to cut it into the slot.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0021/5701/9254/products/BW0A228_seapost_IA_2048x.jpg?v=1585343773

Bumping so I can find out as well.

I don't see a reason you couldn't cut it but I don't own that bike so I don't know for sure

I was looking at a Felt IA Advanced because of it's lower stack. I ran across this thread looking to see if I can put an aftermarket stem on it to get the front end lower.

Are you still in need of the Dagger stem for the FRD? Send me a PM, I have one available that's never been used

those are handy!

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

I own a 2019 IA2 Disc. My stem is proprietary but Felt changed it for the Advanced models and it looks like you can run a standard stem and keep the Devox bars. The problem you’ll run into is with the front cover below the stem. It is secured by a screw on either side of the stem. You’re probably going to have to shave off the tabs and possibly trim the cover to match the profile of your replacement stem. Then just tape it to keep it secure.

As far as the seat post, I have no idea. I haven’t cut mine. Just thinking through it though and I think it could work based on the clamping system. Just use carbon paste to make sure it holds. I’m just worried that there may be flex at the bottom of the post since the slot is no longer reinforced down there. Only one way to find out I guess...

Or call Felt and see if they make a shorter seat post.

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Brett Z

“Livin’ in a van down by the river”

Thanks, that helps