One more quick question. My current ride is a P2. It's a size 58. I don't remember my measurements, but when I asked at the shop they said I'd be the same size on a P5 as a P2. Reading here it seems a lot of guys are downsizing. Could it be that I'd still be the same size on a P5 as my P2. What's most common?

Thanks,
Shane

Assuming that the numbers are for your pads it looks like you can hit those numbers with both a size 51 and 54 and the X-Lo bar, though the Low bar on the 51 can also get close.

Thanks for the information. Please report back on what you find regarding the X-Lo accessory.

I assume you work for 3T?

so the Ultra Low mount is on delivery to Cervelo since June. At the moment we have shipped them all and we have no stock but it's in production so additional request can be satisfied. Actually we do produce what Cervelo is ordering as this is a custom product but additional low mounts can be made under distributor's request. If you are in USA, whatever dealer can get Aduro and the ultra low mount through our distributor Vittoria North America.

As far as I know Cervelo offers the P5 FRAME also to dealers, does not only sell the P5 complete BIKE. Therefore, there must be some of you guys that will have to get the bar from a dealer somehow.

Yes I am in 3T taking care of sales.

We do have X-lo in stock as well.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Thanks for getting back to me, really appreciated. Sounds like it should be possible to obtain the X-Lo bar before next season :-)

I am purchasing a P5 - Six in 56. I have purchased my last couple of Cervelo bikes as framesets and planned on doing the same with the P5. But the pricing from my Cervelo dealer was $7000 for a frameset and $7500 for a complete bike with SRAM Red components and wheels.

I plan on moving over the Di2 on my P4 over to the P5 and will be using my Quarq. So I have really no need for the components but jeeze the price difference does not make sense to me.

First, is the pricing correct that my dealer provided that a frameset is $7000 and complete bike $7500? Does Cervelo send the complete bike to the dealer such that I can receive just the frameset from them and all the components just in a box that I could then re-sell? Or are dealers allowed to just keep the components and give me a credit for them against the $7500? With this approach I basically could purchase a frameset for less than $7k.

BTW, I will be doing the building of the bike myself. I really like my LBS but I enjoy doing the work myself and I like to make things exactly how I want them. Plus I change things often.

Thanks!

Prices and specs are on the cervelo web site.

Note you get RT8 brakes with the frameset but the RT6 with the "Red" bike package.

The packages for the P5 seem odd to me too, but just pick the one that works and sell the extra parts here or on fleabay.

Haven't seen, might have missed, but does the new Zipp CC disk fit on the P5?

Additionally, thoughts on the USE R1 vs Aduro for drag?

Jeff

Did not notice the difference in brakes. But not sure exactly what the difference is between the RT8 and RT6.

$350, a few 50g and a bit more carbon...brakes are also red/black on RT8'S as opposed to all black on RT6's....

http://www.magura.com/...rt6-tt/rt8-tt-1.html

I went with the 6's....

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"It's a line you have to cross to understand."

Damon, if you find out the answer to this, I'd also like to know if it will fit in a T4? I'm looking at the Super 9 CC as an option to be able to use with both a P5 and T4.

Hi Steve and jeffp,

Zipp lists the same dimensions for the CC as for the Super 9, so should fit the P5 & Magura brakes with no problems.

Steve, the T4 frame is designed with 32mm of space between the chain stays, which leaves a theoretical (32-27.5)/2= ~ 2 mm per side. Too close for me to call. I realize it's a long shot, but see if you can try it first if at all possible.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi jeffp,

I know the Aduro is the fastest bar we've tested, but we haven't tested the U.S.E. R1. Could be good - U.S.E. are on top of their aerodynamics, and the handlebar aero zone sees relatively clean flow so not a lot of component interactions to consider during design.

I like that the P5's standard fork and headset lets you choose any bar and stem you like!

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

OK, I am getting ready to narrow down the choices so I can get on a P5 for 2013!

My stack and reach are approximately 640/480. I am currently on my 3rd P3 size 54 and love it. I like where my base bar position is now. Also, the new DA, Di2, or Red....what are the decision points? I have no issues whatsoever w/ my Fizik saddle...any reason to change/experiment? How about the Magura 8 v 6 brakes?

What other things should I consider before pulling the trigger?

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David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

Hi Damon,

received my P5 51 last week,

I want to experiment between the Hi-V and low position.

My LBS are going to start building it on Monday.

I am a "low" guy but I wanted to try the Hi-V with a bit more stretch to see how it rode.

How hard is it to change shifter cabling from Hi-V to Low, I do pretty much all off my own work but for this build I wanted the LBS to do it for warranty etc.

At this point I am thinking don't install the front mech until I know what I want.

Hey Damon...just to confirm ... the Zipp Vuka extensions will not fit the 3T Aduro bars right (the Zipp's are only 22.0mm - not 22.2mm...)????

Just wanted to give a shout out to Jakub as well - the guy has been incredibly patient and helpful with getting my 58cm P5 setup!!!! It truly is a thing of beauty....and I wasn't overly keen on it when it first came out - my, how things change when you see it up close and personal! LOVE IT!

Just hoping for a cool flat kit storage to be developed!!! ;-)

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"It's a line you have to cross to understand."

david wrote:

Also, the new DA, Di2, or Red....what are the decision points? I have no issues whatsoever w/ my Fizik saddle...any reason to change/experiment? How about the Magura 8 v 6 brakes?

Well, that depends on whether you like SRAM or Shimano; mechanical or electronic. Mechanical is a little lighter and you never have to charge a battery, albeit not very often, whereas Di2 requires little to no shift cable maintenance once set up. Some people 'like the way it shifts' as well.


There is no difference in braking power between the two Maguras, just a little weight. jar70 has a little brake break down on post #1511 above on this thread.

david wrote:

What other things should I consider before pulling the trigger?

Fit, fit, fit. If you have been comfortable on the 54cm P3, you will be fine on the 54cm P5. It looks like you will be High V. You can also achieve your position on a 56cm in the Low V set up. So, you have options. While you might want to stick with what you know, it doesn't hurt to talk to your shop about the options you have.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Hey Maurice,

You do have to re-run the cables if you are switching between bar set up options. It does take a little time since you are running the shift cables through the extensions and the High V piece as well. Basically, you are re-doing the whole shift cable from scratch. Of course, if you are riding Di2, there is no need to have new housing/cables on hand.

I don't know that using the High V would make any change to the ride quality. Unless, of course, you are thinking of just experimenting with your position. In that case, you can build up the bike with any old aero bar first to dial it in and then set up the Aduro to your ideal position once dialed. You would just use standard spacers for now so you can make big changes without unbuilding/rebuilding any cables. Just a thought...

You could always mount your front derailleur and just "lock it out" on the big ring so you don't have to run the cable. Obviously you won't be leaving your big ring anyway ;)

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David Byer
Cervélo

Yes, that pricing is correct. I'd like to point out that the comparison that you are looking at is between the SRAM Red build and the P5-Six frame set. This frame set module includes Magura hydraulic brakes and the Aduro handle bar. Oh, and we throw in the BB as well.

We try to build in the best possible value for as many customers as possible. Since most people buy bikes, we do our best to keep the price on the full bike down.


It will arrive partially built with no cables run and the bar will not be set up. It is up to the retailer as to whether they would be willing to keep the SRAM Red and Mavic wheels and credit you against the cost. It is also up to the retailer as to how much they would credit. Most shops are more than happy to work with you.

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David Byer
Cervélo

I recently bought a P5. I would like to change the front chain rings to a compact or mid compact. I have been told that the front chain rings on the rotor that comes with the P5 cannot be changed and that you need to buy a new crank. Someone told me that you can change the chain rings if you change the spider. What is the true position. Why did cervelo go for a crank that is not adaptable. Please help.

Great to hear that you are on the P5. The 2012 P5s were spec'd with a Rotor standard crank. This is a 130bcd crank which is exactly what you will find on many top end Tri or road bikes. The Rotor crank does allow for a swap out of the spider so that you can have a 110bcd which will allow you to use smaller rings. You can contact Rotor directly to set that up.

If you are in the US: http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/contact.html

You also might want to consider different cassette options. If you are trying to get a little lighter gear for the steep stuff, that can easily be done in most cases by swapping out the cassette (depending on what you are riding now).

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David Byer
Cervélo

Hey Dave,

Sorry just to be clear once the bike is built in the HI-V when and if I want to switch to low, the housing stays in the frame.

I just take apart the aero bars, remove shifters, cut housing and re-cable.

No need to remove housing from frame, right?

Thanks,
Maurice

Maurice,

There is no housing in the frame. The housing runs from the shifter and stops in the little pocket in the top tube. From there, the bare cable runs through the ICS-3 (stainless Internal Cable Stop) in a nice smooth arc and then down to the bottom bracket cable guide where it makes the single bend all while staying in one plane. From the cable guide, the front derailleur cable continues around the bend (you will notice it have a different profile that the rear cable) and shoots up through an opening in the frame to the derailleur clamp. The rear cable leaves the bottom bracket guide and into housing through the chain stay to the rear derailleur.

So, there is no housing to worry about in the frame. I would probably just re-use the chain stay/rear derailleur section of housing for the rebuild. Assuming you are not adding or removing spacers when you switch to the low, you can leave the brakes in the base bar so you wouldn't have to worry about that. Come to think of it, what are you trying to compare here? Are you thinking of going for the same position with Low V and spacers vs High V and no spacers or are you trying out two different positions? If it were my P5, I would just go for my position with as few spacers as possible. If that meant a High V, I would go High V.

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David Byer
Cervélo

does repainting them void the warranty?