David,

What are the overall dimensions of the pads?

Thanks!

Jack

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"Only those who risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go." T.S. Elliot | Cycle2Tri.com
Sponsors: SciCon | | Every Man Jack

Picked up a loaner P5 on tuesday from Austin Tri-Cyclist. Will be doing two duathlons this weekend on it. P5-3 with the magura brakes, which are really, really nice by the way.

Size 56, bike feels great, have done two hard efforts on it so far on twisty circuits and the handling is nice.

Will see how the bike splits look this weekend at Hel of a Du and Natural Bridge Caverns duathlon. Both are ~40k bike legs.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Nice, I am sure you will kill those bike splits! Good luck mate!

Jack

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"Only those who risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go." T.S. Elliot | Cycle2Tri.com
Sponsors: SciCon | | Every Man Jack

The pads have about 30mm of side to side adjustment. They have 3 fore/aft positions that are probably 75 or so mm of total adjustment.

And, it looks like the overall pad dimension is about 10cm or so 'long' by about 10cm 'wide'. So, much bigger than typical 3T pads.

I haven't read all of Dan's 'Superbike' fit article. But, one thing that I have noticed is some people have much different reference points for fit. Some it is where they grab the shifters. Some it is where they grab the aerobars. Some it is where the armpads hit their forearms or elbows. For me, it was where my shifters are. For Amy, it was where the back of the pads hit her forearms. So, while the measurements (seat to shifter for example) were exactly the same by my measuring for her bike, we ended up moving the pads because she was holding the bars different due to where her arms hit the pads.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Brandon makes some great points on fitting the bars. Some athletes will need to adjust the arm pads to get them in the sweet spot.

I got 95mm x 95mm when I measured the pads. Much bigger than standard pads which I think most people will find more comfortable. To me, that would mean a little more forgiveness in that exact saddle to arm pad dimension since it will be hitting more of your arm any way.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Now we're at the subject, do you have the measurement for distance between the pad mounting bolt holes? I want to check what the C-C width will be if I use other arm rests.

Thanks in advance.

Bolts are 130mm apart.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Cool, thanks for the fast answer!

I need mine 70mm apart :(

looks like no matter which bars I go to next, i need to do some custom machine work

I have a 58 " P2. My wife doesnt know it yet but she is buying me a P5 for xmas. Would there be any reason i wouldnt fit the same sized frame? My local shop would have to bring one in for me to demo, obviously impractical to bring in more than one size if not neccessary...thx

The geometry has changed. The best way to determine the proper size would be to download the P5 whitepaper and determine your pad stack and reach and compare it to the tables.

That will determine what size frame you will need, and the type of aerobar to use.

I think you may be able to use Zipp's pad width extenders and turn them inwards instead of outwards. You may also try to look around for different arm rests, I think you can get down to at least 100mm C-C with some arm rests when the bolt mounting holes are 130mm apart.

yeah, i have those and forgot as i am/was considering the R1 and that is a completely different bolt spacing, so I was thinking about getting a machined piece between the two attachment locations with mounting holes right where I want them. i want 170mm outside to outside

Excited to demo the 1st P5 to arrive in our area!

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David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

David,

I am demoing the P5 I posted a picture of.

There are a couple of things I'm having difficulty with. First, the seatpost keeps slipping down and does not seem to hold tight. After my ride I did get out the torque wrench and re-torque the screws, but I am being very careful since it is not my bike :-)

Next, the rear brake on the drive side is dragging a bit. I do not know how to adjust that on these brakes. Is that something you can give me a quick instruction on?

Lastly, the left aero extension is a little loose. Again, I tried to tighten it down, but was very careful with how much pressure I put on it.

Let me know if you think these are things I can do myself. I really wasn't able to give the bike a proper workout due to these issues. I certainly don't want to hurt the bike.

Thanks!

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David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

Got my P5!!!! This is going to be a long winter waiting for spring - got a 3 mile ride in yesterday before the snow started falling!!!!

Would love to post a picture - it is sweet - how do you attach a picture in this forum - copy and paste did not work

Need help outfitting it - ride only TT's 20k & 40k

Water bottle - between the bars or downtube? What brand works well & looks good?

Storage bag for top tube - what brand works well and looks good?

Bob

Here is my new ride!!!! I am pumped!!!! Thank You David & Damon & everyone else on this forum for helping with my decision and set-up.

SRAM Red Quark with BB30 worked perfect - this is a sweet ride - bike should of come with a towel to wipe my drool off of it!!

It is so awesome - matte finish is really nice. Alot of engineering went into this.

Bad time of year to get it - it is snowing 4-8" tonite :(

I love it!!!

Cool! I would love to hear what you think of how she rides...




Assembly compound!! Plenty of it on the seat post, just like with any carbon seat post. Slather it good, make sure the bolts are greased and torque away.


Brake alignment could be a the caliper itself. You can likely just centre it with your hand (you can't break it). If you centre it, and it moves easily, the mounting bolt might not be tight enough. If this is the case, remove the rear wheel and the battery cover. You will need an "L" shaped 5mm allen key to tighten it. PM me if you need any extra tips.

david wrote:

Lastly, the left aero extension is a little loose. Again, I tried to tighten it down, but was very careful with how much pressure I put on it.

The black collets (the things that clamp down on the extension) can be tightened with a large adjustable wrench. I recommend wrapping them with a little rag to avoid scratching them. Crank 'em down tight.


Also, something else about the P5... for the best performance, make sure you push pretty hard on the pedals. That is what she is designed for.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Sorry if this has been asked previously, but this thread so long...

I have a size 56, 2009 P4. It fits my perfectly. I am thinking of upgrading to the P5. Would the 56 be a similar fit? From reviewing the specs, it seems like the P5 has a taller stack and shorter reach compared to the P4. I want to get a P5 with identical fit.

Yes, stick with a 56cm. The higher stack is offset by a lower stack bar and the shorter reach is just a function of the higher stack. As you go up, you get shorter as the head tube is angled back toward the rider.

Make sense?

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David Byer
Cervélo

I've bad a P5-6 since June
I could not get low enough and still keep my reach on it. Sold it last month and got my new 54 this week

I'm a cat 1 and masters racer so no Tri's but the 54 is perfect.....

If you don't need really low stack the 56 can work but beware if you need a low stack

Just got done spending a weekend on a P5 loaner from Austin Tri-Cycling. I did two long duathlons, Hel of a Du in Helotes Texas, and Natural Bridge Caverns. Both races have ~40k bike courses, so it was a painful weekend! I was able to recreate my position on a 56 P5 frame, my own bike is a 58 P3. I used my regular wheels and tires and power meter. I went faster on the bike than last year by a lot, but power was up a bit too from last year.

Managed to win my age group at both races, and finish top 10 overall at both as well. Got the all important fastest bike split at natural bridge on tired legs too!

The bike was great, handling was solid, lots of crashes at both races due to wet roads but I kept it upright. The hydraulic brakes were pretty neat, definitely something I would consider if I had the money and used carbon braking surfaces. No mechanical issues at all despite a week of hard use and wet weather.

More details and pictures in my sig.

If you are moving from a p3/p2 to a P5, keep in mind the P5 geometry differs quite a bit, with a lower Bottom Bracket, and more stack. So you may need a different size, and certainly a different stem to recreate your position.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Nice racing mate! Your position looks really great on the P5, I hope I can get mine to the same level.

Cheers!

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"Only those who risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go." T.S. Elliot | Cycle2Tri.com
Sponsors: SciCon | | Every Man Jack

Would love to see a few pics of your position. I just got my P5 and am working on dialing in the position.

bob

I haven't found any pictures from the race yet of me on the bike, hoping some will show up.

But here is my position on my P3, which I recreated on the p5 (except for a little bit of reach)

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter