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Felt IA 16 with
- XLab Torpedo Versa 500 Carbon
- Garmin Edge 520
- Shimano TT78 Brake Levers
- Cee Gees pads
- Cobb 55 Saddle with Cobb rear mount hydration system
- XLab Gear Box Kit
- Powertap P1 pedals
- Tririg Omega X Front & Rear
- Flo Carbon Clincher 60/90
- Continental 4000s II 25 Tires
- Vittoria Latex Tubes
thanks! Your bike is HOT- i live on the craig's list forums and in the NYC-area it is really good...Picked up the Giant for $500 and the wheels separately for another $500...so many people in this area so it really helps
How do the new carbon flos brake in the dry?
How about in the wet?
Any other comments/thoughts about them?
Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...Direct-mount & ZeroSlip-mount, made in the USA.
Rear carrier :
Pit stop pocket :
One, two or three cages :
Up front computer mount :
Computer / bottle steady :
All the hardware for all the above is Ti.
Best pictures of stuff fitted :
A spare tub or a bag mounts to the slots under the rear carrier.
I have only ridden it twice outside for a total of 40 miles, so I do not have a lot of braking experience with it yet. But, I think they breaks are excellent. In fact, I may start a thread to see if anyone has any objective, data-driven information about carbon clincher braking experience. My first ride was just a 10 mile test through neighborhood streets that was highly technical with lots of 90Â° turns, stops, and other obstacles. The brakes performed every bit the equal of my old aluminum rims. Then, today I had it out in a mountain loop with a number of >10% grades and some fast descents with braking along the way. Again, excellent performance. So, either Flo solved the braking, or the gap is a myth.
I have not ridden in the wet yet, but I have no expectations for braking in the wet. Even my old aluminum rims were worthless in the rain.
I should also note that my whole brake system was pretty awesome going in. Felt put total turd brakes on the IA 16, so I removed everything and replaced the levers with Shimano TT78 levers (strong pull ratio), Shimano Dura Ace cables, and Tririg Omega X brakes front and back.
Background: I was a fearless road racer and criterium racer 30 years ago, so braking was my life blood. I am way more chill today, but these brakes give nothing up to aluminum.
I sourced a company that fabricated CF panels for motorsport use. I send them my outlines (I have used AutoCAD for 23 years to do with my job) and they load them into the CNC machine. They lay up the carbon themselves. I just tell them what thickness I want (everything you see is 3mm).
Since I don't have access to machines anymore (we closed UK manufacturing) my ally bits are now made (and anodised) by a friend I met through the RetroBike forum who actually lives quite local to me. He works out of his garage and has no CNC, I have to add dimensions to the drawings I give him :-)
The stainless support bracket was water cut from a local company. Like the CF, I just give them my AutoCAD files.
All the stuff works great which is a relief when you are shelling out your own cash for what are essentially prototypes.
Cervelo S5 Ultegra Di2 pulling double duty.
- Fizik Antares (blue/red) with seatpost in rear position for Road
- Fizik Tritone with seatpost in forward position for TT/Tri
- Powertap on DT Swiss rim for most rides (indoor and out)
- Zipp 404 Powertap for racing/some training rides
Just finished building today (still need to trim brake cable). First bike I build myself. Just had a little help removing the bottom bracket as I didn't have the tool for it. My friend is a mechanic and he hooked me up. I had pre-run the Di2 cables so once he got the bottom bracket out, we shoved the junction box and wiring in, and the put the bottom bracket back. The whole build was definitely a great learning experience. I had some good resources from which to refer to here on the forum and asked some questions as well.