Depends on the track and crank length. For the most part, unless you're doing match sprints, you'd be fine.

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

https://triomultisport.com/
http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

>I didn't say they weren't legal, but we're talking about a kid who's just starting racing. I would recommend against. But that's just me...


A wheelcover very recently probably saved my ass on the track. Someone flatted, and slide out right in front of me. I ran over his wheels, took a crankarm in the shin, unclipping my right leg, and then felt my bike knocked sideways. But I saved it, and didn't go down.

Checking out my bike after, I found that my wheelcover was totally battered and torn. I'm reasonably sure that the crank arm that took out my shin went into the rear wheel and was deflected by my wheelcover. And I have good reason to believe that if the wheelcover hadn't been there, the crank arm would have gone into the spokes, and I likely would have been in a world of shit.

Since that, you won't see me on the track without a cover or proper disc.

Covers/discs have performance and safety benefits and really no drawbacks except a little weight. I'm working up the courage to use one in a crit!

The P2 has a high bottom bracket. I rode it at Burnaby velodrome which has 47 degree banks. No problem.

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

Thanks for the advice and suggestions. Used existing 170mm road cranks with track chainring (50) mounted on the inside using single ring bolts (50). Reversed a set of Redline chain tensioners to adapt the 120 rear wheel to the 130 frame. Chainline seems fine.


Its a work in progress. I imagine we will raise the existing bars and also throw together a set of pursuit/aerobars for timed events. Will swap out the yellow chain. Go with a Zipp 404 in the front. Looking for a disc or disc cover for the rear. I have a line on a pair of Specialized (pre Hed) trispoke wheels that we will use if we can get ahold of them. Might be used in Collegiate track nationals this fall in Indianapolis.


David K

Trail...would please provide some information about your track bike rear wheel cover? Dyma, homemade, other...? The CH Aero/Wheelbuilder model will not work due the different dish found on a track rear wheel. Thanks. David K

It was the DYMA SL "fixed" attached to an American Classic Aero 420 track wheel.

It fit well right out of the box, took just a few minutes to install. Also easy to remove. It is different than the Wheelbuilder-style in that it has a radial split. The radial split makes it slightly less cosmetically nice, but I prefer it because it removes the "wave" issue that can make installing a Wheelbuilder cover a little annoying.

I had no real complaints. Sometimes it'd get a little off center, but use of tape would have fixed it.

I'm only using the past tense because the aforementioned crash ruined the cover, and I found a good deal on a true disc, so I'm running a full-up disc now. But I'd have no problem running another DYMA at some point.

Thanks. I think I will get a Dyma cover soon. David K

Old but awesome black, grey, silver and white beauties. Okay, obviously I am a bit psyched about this as evidence my repeated posts. With a Dyma cover and Campy Vento (like a Shamal) up front. Ready for racing. Have a set of Vision Tech Aero bars and a flat short stem for timed events. The Dyma cover looks better in person than it does in the photo. David K

My wife raced a P2k on the track throughout 2001. Biggest downside was the short dropouts, which limited the cogs/chainring combination she could use w/o breaking the chain. She therefore switched to a P2T when it was released in 2002.

I can see how the short dropouts would be a pain. I have fit a 15 and a 14 with the 50 up front using the current chain. We have a 48 on order and may have to elect to use a second chain.

(Still in a bit of funk because I realized this morning that I had ruined one side of a Dura Ace flip/flop hub using a very old 15 cog that did not have compatible threading.)

David K

Lots of road P3 frames on the track, great frame for MS and Pursuit.

Have at least two chains for your gear configs, you should be able to cover at least 20 inches of gearing this way. Even simpler if youre on a permanent front chainring (53x14x15x16x17=~84" through ~103").

For this kind of conversion, is a shorter (vs. the one used with the tribars) stem required?
(it's an old topic, but I need advice about this)

Most track bike setups will be longer than road and tri.

My track setup is about 20mm longer than my road setup for drop bars. It is nearly the same for aerobars.

I'm interested in the tri to road (not track) conversion. Sorry for not being clear!

Do you have a road bike now you're happy with? Measure it. There are geometry resources on this site to get all the right measurements.

If you're new to road bike positioning, the best thing to do is get a fit, so you have a target to aim for in a conversion. I think it's jumping the gun to be wondering about stem length without knowing a target position for the bars.

Sorry, but, at this stage of the project, I just need to know if, when the pictured bike was converted from tri to road, a shorter stem was installed.
I might be considering getting a fit at some point, though

You picked a good bike to convert to road since the front end is "road like" geometry.

The sizing of the stem will depend on what bars you are going to use.

Some bars are shorter (70-80mm of reach) and some are longer (100-120mm reach).
Some bars are short drop (80mm-ish) and some will have a large drop (120mm+)

You need to decide what bars you like, if you don't know I would suggest getting some cheaper aluminum bars like the Bontrager VR-C in whatever width you like.
https://www.trekbikes.com/...d-handlebar/p/23236/

From there you can mount your shifters, see how you feel with your saddle in a more road-like position. You can then adjust the reach with different stems until you get what you like. If you don't know where to start, I suggest setting the stem length so that when you look down at the front hub, the bars block the view. That's a quick and dirty starting point (Like KOP) and get you close.

Hope this helps.

Actually my bike is a 1st generation Slice, but it shouldn't be all that different. I would put the saddle on the "slack" position and flip the stem.
I think the drop quotes you gave are not correct: possibly it's 130-140mm for the standard sized and 115-125mm for the "compact" ones.
The one I already have has 80mm reach X 120mm drop. I will try with the original stem and see if I need a different length.
Thanks!

The original post is very old, and I honestly can't recall the stem difference between road and tri. Since posting this original message, I did something similar for road and tri using an S5. In that situation, the cockpit switch used its own stem for each.

I did it with di2, which made switching really easy. Just plug and and unplug the front junction (I had two front junctions that stayed on the steams), and the only thing needing work is the brakes. I crazy glued the end of the brake cables so that they could be re-used.

To make things more complicated, I had two different stems for the tri position, a longer one for non-UCI tri events, and a shorter one for UCI time trials. The longer position fit me better and gave me a better position, but it was too long for UCI regulations.

If I recall correctly, the stem for the non-UCI position was roughly the same length as the stem for the road position. As other posters have mentioned, this is all part of the overall fit however, and relates to the stack and reach, which is very individual.

I also swapped the seat post. Cervelo at the time had a two-position seat post for the S5 that allowed putting the saddle more forward for the TT position.

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

Below is the S5 in TT mode. This is with the non-UCI long stem. I think that stem was a bit longer than the road stem. You can see that my saddle is also pushed forward.

This was probably my best TT result. I won the Cat 3 group that day.

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

80X120 is pretty standard and a good place to start.

I have some short drop bars that are 80mm, I used them when I thought the bars couldn't be any lower than the top of the front tire.

You may or may not need to move the saddle much. Personally I have short femurs and the difference between my tri/road/mountain/track bikes is about 20mm. You should put your hips (legs) in the most powerful position for the bar position you choose.

A few weeks ago I completed the conversion: i put the saddle on the "slack" seatpost position (+5cm setback) and flipped the stem (+2cm stack). dropbars stack/reach: 120/80mm. Now the "poor man system six" is ready; not the best handling bike in the world, but for some "draft legal" sprint tri's, feels just right