Yes on the track conversion using the P2SL, P3SL and P3. A friend also races at the track mass start races on the P2.

Problem is when road racing, if someone manages to stick his front wheel in the rear derailleur of your P2 and P3, your whole bike and not just the der hanger is wrecked.

Sergio

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Note: English is not my first language. Please read this translated post considering that.

there are cable couplers that you can switch out road/tri cockpits w/o re-stringing cables every time, they run about $15 a set. I'm in the process of converting my Look 576 to a road set up as well. My LBS has done it on one of their own. I'll post when I'm finished w/ the project.

I hadn't thought of that. Do carbon road bikes have detachable derailleur hangers? It seems like road racing in general is a risky occupation.

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

I'd like to see that.

Where do the couplers go though? If you have internal cable routing, do you still have to route the cables through the frame each time you switch out your handlebars?

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

Looks cool. You're making me regret selling my P3C. What is the stem length and height/spacer difference between your track and road setups?

Are you using the same crankset on the road as you are on the track, but swapping the chainring?

I converted my P2SL to a fixie and got stellar results.

In fact Cervelo is now selling a T1. It really looks like a P2SL (or P1) frame w/o the derailer hanger and cable stops. It retails for $1,200.

I went to a longer stem (120 vs. 90) to slow down the steering a bit.

But I've found this bike to perform better than both a bianchi pista and my Cannondale Capo.

What kind of rear wheel you guys used on the converted road/tri ?

The problem comes when you are switching out gears, I don't think your horizontal dropout is long enough. Cool otherwise.

Road: 100mm stem, 40mm spacer
Track: 80mm stem, 20mm spacer

The different setups are in my profile. I'm still working on lowering my tri setup.

Yes, using the dura ace crankset with a different chainring. I had to put the chainring on the outside rather than the inside for clearance, and re-dish the wheel to get the right chainline.

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

I'm still using the stock Shimano R500 wheels. Hope to upgrade to a powertap with disc cover at some point.

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

You can use different chains with different gear combinations. Just use chains with reusable connectors. The horizontal dropout only needs to be long enough to tension the chain.

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

The rear wheel spacing is the issue.

A standard track bike has 120 mm rear spacing and the standard on road bikes is 130 mm.

Therefore, you need a wheel with a 130 mm fixed gear rear hub.

At the entry level Surly makes hubs that work. Phil Wood does too.

I picked up a set of wheels built w/ the Surly Hub and Mavic Open Sport Rims. I paid ~$300 for the set. I really like them.

You may want to spend more on the wheels. As I said in my earlier post, the P2 Frame makes a great fixed gear bike.

I use my fixed gear in the winter for training and I've put over 1,000 miles on it this winter.

Oh, you meant the rear wheel in the track setup. Yes that is an issue.

I had a local bike store build up a new DT Swiss rear wheel with a 130mm fixed gear hub.

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

Resurrecting an old thread. My oldest will soon start riding and racing on the track here in Indianapolis. Initially he will use a Cannondale Caad 5 we purchased over the winter. (I have a very old chrome Gitane track bike as well.) If he likes it and starts collegiate racing or if we need a third track bike we may convert my Cervelo P3 Sl to track bike use. So, for those that have converted their Cervelos or other road bikes to fixed gear use:

Did you add a track crank or did you use the road crank?

What chain did you use? (Obviously depends on what chainring and rear cog are used.)

Any serious issues getting the chain line straight?

Any option other than building up a dedicated 130mm rear wheel for track bike use?

Are wheel covers allowed at the track? Massed start or or only against the clock or not at all?

Anyone know if quick release front wheels are allowed on the track? If not, anyone have a reasonably inexpensive idea for a front wheel? I have set of Zipp 404 road wheels I barely ever use - anyone know if they can be converted to track use without rebuilding with a new hub?

Thanks.

David K

I'll field some of these:

* QR's -- Don't. For a front wheel, there are options out there like the old Control Tech skewers that used a hex wrench. For a rear wheel, you need the clamping force of a nutted axle.
* Wheel covers -- Again, just don't. Legal for TT's and pursuits, laughed at any other time.
* Road cranks are fine, just go with a SS chainring (1/8" chain width compatible). On the inside is better for chainline, but the frame may not take it.
* There are options for converting a freehub to a fixie (Surly has one, I believe, or at least used to), so a 130mm axle rear wheel is okay. Then you can use a fixie cog.
* 1/8" width track chain.

Hope that helps.

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

https://triomultisport.com/
http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

?

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

I didn't say they weren't legal, but we're talking about a kid who's just starting racing. I would recommend against. But that's just me...

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

https://triomultisport.com/
http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

Sure I have for the road and for tri. And I'm working on a new project right now. And got some pics of other bikes like this here.

Greg @ dsw

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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well yeah, prolly so.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

I used a road crank. Wipperman chain (has a re-usable link). I re-dished the rear wheel to get the chainline straightish. I used a quick release front wheel. At the track I was at, no one commented on it.

Issues: Re-dishing the wheel isn't the best option, because you can't flip the wheel for a different cog size. The rear dropout on the P2 is a bit short, which limits the variety of cogs you can put on with the same chain. I met one guy who had multiple chains for different cogs, and when he needed to switch he swapped both the cog and chain at the same time.

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Graham Barron Design: Custom west coast house design http://www.grahambarron.com/

Forgot about the hex key type skewers for front wheel use. Good call, thanks. And, the wheel cover, if he used one, would only be used in non mass start events. David K

You can put 5mm spacers on both sides of most bolted track wheels to space it out to 130mm and keep the track chainline. If track is going to be a longer term pursuit then getting a track crank might be better as you will get the chain line and 144mm BCD chainrings that will be where you end up long term. The inner ring of a road crank is a couple of mm inside of the track cranks but it mostly works, the bigger issue I have had is that road cranks don't seem to be as round as track cranks so depending on how lucky you are there may be issues getting a consistent chain tension which can lead to thrown chains.
Most people use 1/8" chains on the track but 3/32" work unless you are a big sprinter. If going long term look at where you want to be when building up the spare rings and cogs.

Rules say no quick releases, but bolt on front skewers are ok. The Surly adapter is for Shimano hubs so unlikely to work on a Zipp, just find a rear track wheel there are lots out there that don't cost much and work ok. Rear discs are normal for elite races, not so much in cat 4/5 so no need to rush into that.

If you have a track bike to start with go out and use that with basic wheels and equipment to get going and talk to the locals to see what they recommend, with the university there you should be able to get all the advise you need on collegiate racing.

no issue with BB height and clearance? I watched a guy hit a pedal at Rock Hill (42 degrees?) trying to ride a converted road frame. It was ok going fast, but slowing up, the pedal hit the track

P3-SL great mass start/pursuit bike.


Did you add a track crank or did you use the road crank?
-You should get a track crank. Sram Omnium with Chris King BB will help alot if you have any chainline issues.

What chain did you use? (Obviously depends on what chainring and rear cog are used.)
-KMC, Vertex, and Izumi chains all good options. Ride what you have (1/8th or 3/32) just make sure its a quality manufacturer (Sugino, Shimano, EAI, Suntour, etc) I know a few 10sec sprinters on 3/32 that put out 2000+ peak watts.

Any serious issues getting the chain line straight?

Sometimes, case by case and what gear you have on hand. Nothing major though.

Any option other than building up a dedicated 130mm rear wheel for track bike use?

Spacers will work.

Are wheel covers allowed at the track? Massed start or or only against the clock or not at all?

Some racers have slid by using a USAC wheelcover rule. The jist is weekly races its okay, champ/UCI you may have issues, depends on your local officials as well.

Anyone know if quick release front wheels are allowed on the track? If not, anyone have a reasonably inexpensive idea for a front wheel? I have set of Zipp 404 road wheels I barely ever use - anyone know if they can be converted to track use without rebuilding with a new hub


Use the Zipp front track skewer (less than $15 bucks).

Your biggest issue will be dropout length and have the right chain length for the ratios you plan on running.

Youll probably need 2-3 chains cut for different ratios if you get geeky.

KW