The Omega X is indeed compatible with the Serios, and any other Shimano Direct-Mount applications (the new Cannondale Slice, for example).

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TriRig.com

Any updates on the build or general impressions of the bike? I'm thinking about ordering one this week but am still debating over the serios or P2.

Finally finished the original da di2 wiring and omega x brakes. Love the easy set up of brakes. Waiting for Hawk Racing pf30 bb then get to go ride. Will upload images tomarrow. No riding yet.

Just wanted to add a few notes to your build experience...

Steering limit pin:

The pin can be removed, but as you pointed out – no more dings in top tube from handle bars or down tube from brake caliper. The turn radius is limited, but after a few rides on the Serios , I felt like it had more than adequate turning ability for most races situations.

BB/ Di2 Access:


There is access thru the BB on the Serios.


The Praxis BB on the Serios is one of their earlier designs that has a aluminum sleeve that is inserted into a frame prior to inserting the bearing cups. In this version, the sleeve must be removed in order to run the wiring.




Praxis' newest Shimano BB for PF30/BB30 does have access ports thru the aluminum frame sleeve that will let a junction box through, making running of the Di2 wiring easier.


The hardest part is running wire thru the rear chain stay. However, since I did not have the specific Shimano wire routing tool from Park (http://www.parktool.com/...ble-routing-kit-ir-1), I created a makeshift wire pull utilizing a typical shifter cable, running it through the frames chain stay from the Rear derailleur to the BB.



Then I attached the wire to cable narp using a small piece of electrical tape. (in photo example below I used scotch tape to help illustrate).Then I slowly pulled wiring harness through chain stay to BB to connect to the junction box.

Photobucket photos: http://s836.photobucket.com/...os?sort=2&page=1

going for a 20k TT tomorrow

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Retul Certified Fitter. gebioMized Pressure Mapping http://www.PedPowerPerformLab.com.
Retailer of Wahoo Fitness, Sable Water Optics, Enve Composit, Giro and more.
Zone3 USA Ambassador - use code DEAN25 for 25% off
http://www.OasisOne-Twelve.com - The ultimate hands free hydration system.
https://www.athlinks.com/athletes/19354499 - results.

routing all cables - must feed a filler line before taking out.
easy enough but takes time.

we did custom build with original Shimano 7900 Di2 (no e-tube wiring-so had to make modifications for frame to get the wires to fit inside.




We installed Hawk Racing PF30 bottom bracket (to fit 46mm shell) to go with the RotorPower 30mm axle cranks.

Serios has no outside Di2 battery mounts. With Original Di2 wiring had do do a custom internal batter harness. Battery in now inside seat tube.

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Retul Certified Fitter. gebioMized Pressure Mapping http://www.PedPowerPerformLab.com.
Retailer of Wahoo Fitness, Sable Water Optics, Enve Composit, Giro and more.
Zone3 USA Ambassador - use code DEAN25 for 25% off
http://www.OasisOne-Twelve.com - The ultimate hands free hydration system.
https://www.athlinks.com/athletes/19354499 - results.

20k TT - easy pace ride actually completed

Bike/Ride characteristics
Felt solid. dampens road vibrations very nicely.
No flex.
Limited steering (lock to lock) not a problem at all.
Compared to Kestrel 4000 - the Serios is a little bit stiffer
Not a harsh ride.
Omega X brakes - great modulation and control
No rattles - no extra noises. Quiet ride.
Heavier than the Kestrel 4000.

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Retul Certified Fitter. gebioMized Pressure Mapping http://www.PedPowerPerformLab.com.
Retailer of Wahoo Fitness, Sable Water Optics, Enve Composit, Giro and more.
Zone3 USA Ambassador - use code DEAN25 for 25% off
http://www.OasisOne-Twelve.com - The ultimate hands free hydration system.
https://www.athlinks.com/athletes/19354499 - results.

Frame size and build weight?

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Mike

frame size 56
real world weight - 20.05 lbs (via non-certified scale)

RotoPower crank - add a bit of weight
aero Qrings add weight
bottle cage adds weight
computer and bell add weight
top tube bag adds weight
Rolf Ares 9 and 8 carbon clincher wheels add weight
di2 components and battery add weight
Profile J4 clamps add a lot of weight


One could definitely build a sub 18 lbs version.

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Retul Certified Fitter. gebioMized Pressure Mapping http://www.PedPowerPerformLab.com.
Retailer of Wahoo Fitness, Sable Water Optics, Enve Composit, Giro and more.
Zone3 USA Ambassador - use code DEAN25 for 25% off
http://www.OasisOne-Twelve.com - The ultimate hands free hydration system.
https://www.athlinks.com/athletes/19354499 - results.

I had my first race on my Serios at Boulder 70.3, and it went great. The bike really seemed to be fast and handle well (all anectodal - can't compare times as I never raced there before). I'm happy with with the handling, and feel. I climb a lot around here (Santa Monicas) and it climbs and descends well for a tri-bike.

Here are some pics and a description of my setup for IM. I'm pasting from a blog post, so sorry it's so long, but I thought there might be some interest--even if just to make fun of my bike, driveway, fence, garage, etc.

Taper week for IMChoo, so I finally have some time to type a review of my new racing chariot. I upgraded to the DiamondBack Serios this summer.
I had some anxiety about changing bikes in the middle of Ironman training. The fit was dialed in on my old bike, I had working power meter, tested ways of carrying nutrition, and I knew I could race well on it.

It took a couple rides and some back and forth with my fitter, but the first time I rode the bike with the right fit, I knew I was racing on the Serios.



Diamondback did a lot right here. The bike just feels fast. I can’t prove it, but I’m confident that this is the fastest bike I’ve ever ridden. One small measure, as of this writing, I have uploaded 1149 laps of Hanes Point on Stava. Over 1000 of those laps were on different bikes, but my 5 fastest have all been on this one. My wattage isn’t higher than past years, so it’s proof enough for me that this bike is measurably faster than my old one.

The bike rides the way it should. Stable and properly weighted. No detected wobbles. Responsive in and out of the saddle. Some folks have mentioned the limits on the turning radius. I don't find it to be a problem at all. Even U-turns in the road are fine.

The stock build is high-end. On the Serios AF, it comes with the integrated corsair bars, full Ultegra Di2, and Hed jet 5 wheels. That’s an awful lot of bike. It also ships 99% built. This is an amazing feature. They also have a community of support on their website for folks that need help. Even if you’re not a mechanic, if you have basic familiarity with your bike, you can probably have the bike ready to ride within an hour of taking it out of the box.

That said, I suspect most folks will still want to take it to a shop. For me, I wanted help cutting the steering tube and aero bar extensions and also adapting my fit.



I put a lot of thought into setting the bike up in a way that was comfortable, fast, and carries all the food, Osmo, and gear I need. Another shout out to the Bicycle Pro Shop and my father for patiently helping me solve problems as I obsessed over details.

I was able to move the quarq powermeter from my Kestrel to the Serios. It took some work. Quarq is owned by Sram, and the DiamondBack came with Shimano, so the powermeter and chain rings weren’t compatible. Reading online there was some question about whether Sram chainrings are stiff enough to handle Shimano’s Di2 shifting. I wound up buying Praxis rings with Sram’s bolt pattern and they’ve worked like a charm.

The next challenge I ran into was the disc wheel. My disc is 10 speed and the DiamondBack is 11. I really didn’t want to have to buy a new disc. Eric at the Pro Shop was able to solve the problem by removing a cog from an 11 speed cassette, fitting it on the 10 speed wheel, and then limiting the rear cassette and adjusting the Di2.

Shift quality has been fine. I notice a small hitch when the chain goes over the missing cog, but it makes the shift every time. I don’t get to take full advantage of the DB’s 11 speed drivetrain, but I have enough gears and didn’t have to spend $2000 on a new disc wheel, so I’m happy.




For hydration, I have the Torhans 30 oz between my aerobars and a single bottle behind the seat. Plan is obviously to rely on on course nutrition to fill the Torhans on the fly. The rear bottle is affixed to my saddle with a half dozen zip ties. The Pro Shop (remember I told you they were awesome?) helped me lock it down, even drilling a small hole in the carbon cage to make room for one last zip tie.

I cut both the straw and the fairing for the straw to make the Torhans more aero and less likely to smack me in the face and I mounted my Garmin between the aerobars directly in front of the bottle. I’m using the aero tray behind the Tornans bottle to put my flat repair kit and nutrition overflow that doesn’t fit in the bento box. I can get 4 Clifbar block packs on top of the tray (about 750 calories). And if you look back at the front view, it’s all completely hidden from the wind.



One last custom mod I’m proud of. DiamondBack hides the Di2 battery in the seat post with a port inside the large headset. This is a solid approach that will work for most people. Especially with all the adjustment I was doing to make the 10 speed disc work, I wanted easier access to the port. So I cut a small hole in the bento box and ran the cables through the headset and stuck the charging port in the box. It’s worked great, so it’s an idea people may want to steal.

I think that’s it. The bike is ready for the Ironman, so hopefully, I am too!

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http://snappletriteam.com/

You'd think after 1149 laps you'd learn how to spell it. Bam, I'm outta here.

FWIW, I have the same exact mod on a bento box on my Speed Concept :)

11-speed modding to 10 speed seems a bit complicated and perhaps finnicky for race day.

Check out Token's 11 sp. cassette: http://www.bikeradar.com/...romo-cassette-49145/

It is supposed to work on 10 sp. freehubs and could make your disc compatible with your new groupset.

I have one of those on my road bike. Spacing at the hub is *slightly* different so it requires a little bit of adjustment at the RD but once set up it shifts wonderfully and is surprisingly light.

That's another option to look at.

I actually feel good about the way the disc is set up. I've ridden a few hundred miles on it and it shifts just fine. Even if I shift past the 25, with the limit set, it doesn't go anywhere. It still "thinks" it's an 11 speed, so I have one more click past my top gear. But if I click past the last cog, I just have to click twice to go back down. That, the sacrifice of 10 speeds instead of 11, and a little noise when I shift past the missing cog have been the only downsides. None of that will affect my race, and it all works reliably.

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http://snappletriteam.com/

Good to hear some decent real world reviews for this bike. Unfortunately DBs lack of secondary wind tunnel tests have resulted in very little buzz around this bike. Anyways,decided to give it a shot and pulled the trigger on a Serios S today. Coming from a used 2013 QR Kilo, I hope to spend some time getting fit on the new bike and start my journey into Triathlons. I do think its a great looking bike and very well priced, especially the S model. Plan on a couple TriRig mods. Mainly the Omega X and Sigma X ( when its released and if it fits the Serios S).

Anyone else purchased a Serios yet? Thinking about ordering the S model over the Ordu and P2 due to cost and the layout.

I tried to buy a frameset without the Corsair bar since I run Campy and already have a Corsair bar, but they did not want to deal. I guess they are not that "Serios" about getting bikes out racing. I plan on keeping my B2 until I can afford an IA or find a P2 frameset.

While I do think it is odd that they do not do bare frames I think they are going to be firm on offering complete bikes with no mods. Honestly without the ST discount or Promotive discount I do not think many people are going to buy these. The prices they are listing at are too high and people will not look twice when they can get a P2 for $2800.

Recently upgraded my Serios S with the proprietary stem from the expensive model Serios. Love the new sleek and aggressive look.

Really cleaned up the cables.

Which bar are you running?

Vision Trimax Carbon base bar. Pretty inexpensive.

How does it match up with the cable routing for the stem? Could you take some better pictures of that please? How much was the Serios stem and where did you get it from? Thanks :)

Diamondback has stems in stock (or did recently). they made a couple updates to the original version. The Di2 junction box (3 or 5 port) now fits in the nose cap, which is held on with magnets

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TEAM F3 Undurance

I have an extra Diamondback Serios AF stem for sale. Like new condition for $120 plus shipping. Its one of the best upgrades that can be done to the Serios S model bike.

Do you still have the stem? I have an S model coming and I'd like to upgrade

if you end up getting the aero stem, I have some extra spacers. I ended up removing all the spacers.

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TEAM F3 Undurance

Yes. PM me your email and I will send you some pics. It comes with two risers.

Can you post some pics of the serios stem and where the junction box would go?
I'd like to use Zipp Alumina bars, do you think it would work with that stem?

Thanks

The Gen1 stem would fit the junction box inside the body of the stem. It was built with the 3-port in mind, so the 5-port might be a little tight.
Also, if you're considering something other than the HED Corsair aerobars, which the stem was built to match, be careful. The stem won't work with just any basebar/riser combination.

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TEAM F3 Undurance

What aerobar are you using and how did you manage to mount them around the stem?
Can you post a picture of it?

I switched to the PD Aeria T4 alloy. If I find a deal on the carbon basebar, i'll upgrade later. It allowed me to add the di2 shifters at the brakes (which the HED Corsair didn't have), along with adjustable risers (rather than adjusting stack at the stem). This switch did require a small amount of sanding on the stem. Message me if you want more details..

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TEAM F3 Undurance

Multisportsdad I am a little confused I just got a new Diamondback Serios AF frame and an original stem that I plan to build, but need help picking the aerobar, HED Corsairs
are out the question since they cost almost as much as what I paid for the frame, I am considering the PD T4 alloy since you are using it and is not that expensive, but concerned about what you metioned about "sanding" the stem, I am not very skilled and I am not really thrilled about hurting the "finish" of the stem. I saw the 3T Clip-on with a Zipp Vulka alumina base bar those should work, but I dont think I can use spacers on the clip on to get the right stack height, Was the sanding of the stem very little? I appreciate any recommendation on this

As you know by now, the clamp area of that DB stem is pretty wide, and it's even wider behind the clamp area. Because of this, the risers (when mounted to the base bar) block the base bar from sitting flush in the stem. It's a small amount, but I basically had to make a groove in the stem housing to allow the risers to fit, and therefore the base bar to sit flush in the stem.

Basically, I would sand a little, test the fit, sand a little more, test again, until it worked.

I'll see if I have any pics that help.

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TEAM F3 Undurance

Any idea between which size I should get. currently riding a medium speed concept with an aggressive position.

I'm 5'11" with a 33 inch inseam. Should I go 54 or 56?

I went with 54, based off my stack/reach numbers from ERO.
but for a reference point, I'm 5'9" and shorter inseam, guessing closer to 31.

looking at their online sizing charts, you might be in 56 range

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TEAM F3 Undurance

if you try their custom studio, you can enter your pad x/y and it will tell you a size and spacers, etc. it also lets you do a custom build for the bike.

Very nice clean look! Me like.

I have two of these DB Serios proprietary stems for sale. $175 each Brand new never used.

If you want to fish wires, just get: http://www.parktool.com/...e-routing-kit-ir-1-2

Happy to answer any questions. I run mine with VukaStealth. Had to make some mods to do it, but it's very functional if not quite as clean as with the DB stem.

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"Non est ad astra mollis e terris via." - Seneca | rappstar.com | FB - Rappstar Racing | IG - @jordanrapp

Just ordered a 2017 Serios F through my wife's work at a great discount! It comes spec'd with Ultegra Di2, HED Jet 6+, and a HED Corsair cockpit. Hope to race it straight out of the box!

Any suggestion on where to hide the Di-2 Junction box? With the warranty/recall issue with the original stem that came with the Serios AF.
Thanks
Andrew

Unless there's a version "3.0" that I'm not aware of, I have the second version on my Serios. The junction box fits vertically in the stem's nose cone. There's actually a clip to hold it in place and a hole in the cone to see the indicator led on the junction box. the downside of this setup is that the e-cables come out the bottom of the nose cone before running back towards the steerer tube.

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TEAM F3 Undurance

 Apparently there’s been some recall or warranty issue with the stem cap or/nosecone. Not sure diamondback is giving me the honest answer because they gave me a serios S stem cap no nosecone. AND I HAD THE SERIOS AF with the nosecone. Now I’m stuck wondering where to put the di2 junction box with ease access for charging. Am I’m asking to much? Should I be looking into 3D printing?

Drop me a line at andeantri@gmail.com and I'll see if I can't get this sorted out for you. Sounds like there may have been some miscommunication at some point.


M

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Question for the DB Serios owners. A friend of mine is purchasing one and we are wondering if there is enough space between the crank and the chain stay to hold a crank arm based power meter like Stages or 4iiii. Does anybody have one of those installed in a Serios bike?

Here is a picture showing that we need at least 10mm between the crank and the chain stay.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/...IPPED.png?1447181722

I run the Pioneer power meter, which is also on the crank arm for the non-drive side. I had to upgrade the rear brake to make it all clear. I have heard the same is necessary for Stages, not sure about 4iii.

For reference, I found a narrow TRP rear brake for under $100 that did the job, but the tri-rig is another option.

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TEAM F3 Undurance

Thanks for your reply. What was the TRP rear brake set you used?

hi cristianoag,

With a Shimano Ultegra direct mount rear brake below the bb, there is not enough clearance for a stages power meter or the Pioneer.

You would need to look into the other direct mount rear brakes to gain the clearance needed

I got the TRP T850 direct mount rear brake, it was $85 on ebay.
I later upgraded the front brake to Tri-Rig Omega X during one of their sales.

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TEAM F3 Undurance

To amplify what James wrote, the "party line" has to be that you can't put a Pioneer or Stages type meter on a Serios with the standard brake, because that's true most of the time.
It turns out that some crank arm lengths actually do fit because the arms have a slightly different shape. Millimeter differences add up quickly.
So, if you happen to hear from someone that they were able to get a Stages meter on a stock Serios, they probably weren't lying to you. It's just complicated.
As mentioned in a previous thread, I'm working to put together a database of known good combinations for the Diamondback bikes, but it's... a lot of work.
A lot.

MH

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Has anyone replaced the cables and housing on their serios? I've been debating between having the bike shop do it or try it myself but wanted to hear some first hand experiences first. It looks pretty straight forward, but I am worried it could be difficult to push the housing past the bottom bracket.

Who is still rocking their Serios? With it out of production, who is afraid of not being able to replace a cracked fork, damaged seat post or a stem with stripped out clamp bolts?

I'm on one of the Team Rally bikes that I picked up used and the seat post slipped a few days ago chipping off the clear coat and damaging the paint but is still functional just looks bad. This got me thinking about the availability of parts so I hopped on ebay to find a bunch of stems, framesets and seat posts for sale if anyone is looking. I have no affiliation with anyone selling the items, just offering a PSA to fellow owners.

I also noticed that Matt Russell's Serios that he used to claim 6th at Kona last year and was featured here on ST just sold for $2750!!! Complete with Dura Ace DI2, TriRig brakes, Stages, Ceramic Speed and Knight wheels. Personally not sure I could have made it work for me with the chopped steerer tube or that 56 tooth crank but it looks like someone got a killer deal.

still riding my serios. but i actually never even thought about replacement parts. crap.

I recently bought a Serios team frame and built it up with Sram red etap. The frame did not come with headset spacers, I emailed Diamondback support and they looked around and sent me four right out. They were extremely helpful you may want to start there.

From what I understand, a lot of the special stuff was carried over to the Andean. The stem was the same (though you could technically use any stem it would just not look as sweet) but they made a new one, again it would work on the serios. I was told the seatpost was the same (can't confirm that) It looks similar.
As for the fork, well if I break a fork I am probably on to a new bike at that point. Or a warranty.

Hi,
I have a Serios with a 115mm stem but would like to find a shorter stem (I think that 75mm is the shortest, but I might be wrong).
Does anyone know where I could get one?
Thanks.

Check ebay first. There are some spare parts there, from time to time. I got an extra seatpost and clamp that way.
Truthfully, while the original stem was cool looking, it's kind of a PITA, and my first one even cracked. I ended up getting a factory replacement when they released an updated design.

Also, search for Andean stems too. It's my assumption that they're the same design.

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TEAM F3 Undurance

Thanks for the advice; I will check these.

The Andean has a 1" steer tube, and a stem to match. As a result Andean stems will not work on a Serios.
There were a small number of the gen 2 Andean stems made with a 1 1/8" clamp, and Diamondback might still have one or two lying around, but I don't know for sure.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Thanks for this info.

I feel like there's quite a bit of flex in my stem, is that normal? Where did yours develop a crack? Thanks!

Looking to upgrade to all carbon from my cervelo dual. I know this is out of production, but love the frame design overall and everything I've read about it. Still a worthwhile pickup for about $800? Frame is new. Was also looking at the fuji norcom straight 1.1 for a few hundred more.