@gregtay can you please post an image of your hydration system mods? I would like to try that. Thanks

I will grab some photos today.

Bump for hydration pics

Hope this helps. I cut down a carbon Xlab Versa (cut the sides off), drilled a new hole in the mounting plate further forward and used that hole and the original "forward" hole to mount the Versa to the BTA mounts on the Alpha. Then I needed to find a way to secure the rear of the cage to the Versa so I made a very low profile nylon nut/screw work (cut it down a bit) The nylon screw is covered by black tape in the photos (the tape is just there to stop spilled sticky stuff from seeping down under the cage.) I will try to get another photo with the tape off. This rear screw is really just keeping the cage centered, it doesn't need to be something super strong. I also have double sided foam tape under the rear of the bottle cage. If you want more tilt in the Alpha you may need to add some small spaces under the screws that mount the Versa (and this actually makes solving securing the rear of the cage easier as you would have more room between the cage Versa and the Alpha. I had the spacers ready to go but I only have a few degrees of tilt so didn't use them. Sorry, not great photos. My Torpedo bottle is in the same location as it was on my Alpha, which is what I was going for.


The Alpha was designed to cover the bearings and act as a dustcap, so no need to run one. I wanted to go one step further to protect my bearing so I grabbed the ring/seal the is snapped in the bottom of the factory Shiv dustcap and I placed it on top of the bearing before installing the Alpha. Ended up very clean, low (which is always a plus with the Shiv) and the bearings are protected and not exposed. I did the same thing on my wifes PR5 w/ the Alpha, in her case it was a CraneCreek dustcap, I just pulled the ring/gasket from the bottom of dustcap/headset. The only issue with the CrankCreek is that the rubble seal is blue and her bike is Neutron (pink).. so it is a little more visible under the Alpha.

My TriRig Alpha One is also very 'floppy'. As Rruff mentions it's likely due to no restriction from the cables. I've put a small piece of gaffa tape on each side of the head tube where the Omega X hits it, but would also like a better solution if someone comes up with one. After transport one needs to be aware of the Omega X still being centered as knocking it against the frame can sometimes cause it to lose alignment.

Hey MTM, I eventually solved the issue of the brakes hitting the frame by switching from the longer adapter plate my mechanic used to the shorter one also supplied with the brakes. Not sure if that could be a solution for you or not. I need the 2-hole to single hole adapter plates for my bike, mayne you don't?

I have electrical tape on my frame to hide the chips. Anyone know if nail polish can be used to touch up chips in carbon frames? Presumably the solvent in it is not significantly different from that used with autobody paints?

Didn't know there were several adapters? I believe I used the one supplied with the brake, but it's several years old at this point so it might have changed? At the moment I'm back on the Aduro handlebar, though.