The saddle is the Fizik Tritone
But beware - reports that brackets are breaking off and needing a replacement every 300 miles.

ST thread here

I use the Hen House with my IA, & have packed it probably over 25 times into the case. I wouldn't say it's easy, but once you have some order & routine it can be done relatively quickly. Expect it to take time initially though.

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http://www.josh-amberger.com/

No wonder to use plastic bands. Thanks, it helps a lots.
Did you try to use carbon wing (2bottle) or delta thing (1bottle) of X-lab ? Didn't they work due to the location of the saddle clamp, correct ?

Is the IA's Dagger system similar to the old Bayonets? As in, to remove the fork, is it a matter of removing the bars and stem thingy, while brakes and such remain attached?

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ZONE3 - We Last Longer

Sorry again. I would like to use a hard case, especially the bikebox allan already available in my home.
Do you mean that I can't pack li like this ? http://www.cervelo.com/...do-i-pack-my-p5.html
To materialize this, do I need to remove the rear brake caliper out of the frame, for disassembling the wire cable ? It's hard to reassemble it at the race place, without any mechanic person, right ?

not plastic bands - zip ties.

No I haven't used any of X-Lab's carriers myself, I've used cheapo zip ties

Brakes must be removed to remove the fork, as the cabling will be too tight to leave it on because of the center pull system. In addition, the cowling must come off to be able to take the brake off. This is what I mean about routine, there's a precise order things have to be removed in.

I don't have to remove the stem from the bars though, stem stays attached.

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http://www.josh-amberger.com/

You do not need to disconnect the cable, just the "trolley" or roller the cable is attached to. This allows the brake adjustment to be preserved. A 2mm and 3mm hex key are needed.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

You can also install the Fuelselage on top of the Calpack cover, instead of inside the Calpack. The cover is strong enough to firmly support the Fuelselage lid & the fit is pretty good too. This setup worked great for me at Roth & refilling the bladder was flawless. Some pics I here:
http://imgur.com/a/pemPN

Ha, i do think that you re set up is even better than mine. Please post a picture of how you cut the calpack cover to fit the bladder through it.
How much did you cut of the cal pack to fit the bladder through?

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

Sukhi - right after you posted the links to the videos I got online and ordered two Scicon bags, the "2.0" and the "Triathlon." They took a while to show up, but I finally got a chance to use them a few time over the past couple of weeks. Wrote up a review and posted it to the main forum: http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=5208101

Basically, these bags are a dream: The only thing I had to remove from our bikes were the wheels. The seat, pedals, base bar and extensions all stayed exactly as they were.What a welcome change from the cases I have used for the past two decades. Thanks a million for the recommendation.

Glad to hear it all worked out...
I haven't had a chance to use mine as my race schedule took a detour (bike crash = fractured clavicle).

But I'll be using the bag for IMAZ this fall.
Did you end up removing the base bar/extensions and seat/seatpost on the IA for transport?

Hello Super Dave,
I am very interested in your FELT IA FRD. It's the coolest bike I've never seen before. I have almost booked your bike for 2015. But I still have a concern about the bike packing to fit into the hard case. Can you show me how to disassemble the rear brake line. I don't understand where the trolley is attached. I have now seen `IA owner's manual'. http://www.feltbicycles.com/...LT+IA+OWNERS+MANUAL'
Among them, I am seeing the roller at Page 56, 60 and 61. But, I can't imagine what you meant to say. Can you show me a few pictures ? Or, would you please tell us disassembling and reassembling the real brake line a few more concretely ? Are you confident that it's not difficult to do it without mechanic ? I would appreciate your cooperation. Thanks.

Thanks for providing the great photo. Haven't you ejected the bottle with the zip ties' method ?
Or, isn't it hard to pull out and put back the bottle, during the ride, due to the positioned angle ?

I left everything in place as-is (base bar, extensions, seat, and pedals. I only removed the wheels.
The next time I travel I might loosen and slide the extensions back some - the case was just large enough for the bike to fit without doing so though.
FYI my frame is a 54 and I have the extensions out absolutely as far as they will go.

You will love traveling with this case.

I have only had two races this season in which I needed the second bottle, so the data set is small, but no, I have not ejected the bottle.
However one of the races was Chattanooga Waterfront Olympic, and if the bottle didn't eject on that course I don't think it ever will - that is where I ejected the lid of my Cal Pac, flat kit, nutrition, etc. The bottle stayed firm.

I have used this setup on my previous bikes a lot, and never had an issue. I have found that you really only have issues with ejecting a bottle when it is pointing straight up in the air. The more horizontal the better. I have no trouble getting to the bottle, but again I have lots of practice. I also only use it to swap bottles, so I only remove/replace it once per race. No need to break aero even. In training the rear bottle coms off and I carry my flat & tool kit behind the seat, bottle goes on the frame.

My last post reminded me to write an update about my lost CalPac lid: Felt replaced it under warranty (I didn't ask and wouldn't have expected them to, but I am not complaining!).
I came in just in time for me to use at AG Nationals. I was they might have come up with a redesign that would work a little better, but it is pretty much the same as before. So I taped it on with electrical tape and it did not budge. I left the rear flap free so that I could grab a gel that I was carrying there, but the lid popped open and the gel bounced out before I needed it. Anyone else having this kind of issues with the CalPac lid in training or racing, or am I just unlucky?

FYI: The new lid does have a new cutout in the front that looks like it will allow some alternative cable routing options.

FYI I think the most important part is the gripping power of the cage. I have the same cage / set up and have never had an issue w/ ejected bottles. I train & race with a bottle there. I had a plastic profile design cage there before - but that cage would eject bottles all the time. With the gorilla - no issue.

Finally got a chance to post some pics of the install. The clear plastic piece in middle of the CalPack was hot-glued in, so I could still carry gels, etc, without having to worry about them falling in to the frame.


http://imgur.com/a/pemPN

Hi Dave,

I have a 2013 DA2 that cracked where the seat stays join the seat post. My local bike shop sent photos to Felt and they have agreed to warranty the frame and allow me to upgrade to the 2015 IA1 framset for an additional cost. I am being told by my LBS that they cannot place an order for my new frame until December since it's a replacement. Given the supply challenges for 2014 frames, I'm concerned about getting in line that late. Should I push my LBS harder to place the order now or do you think I have to wait as well?

Thanks!

SD,

I just got myself a new Zipp 404/808 FC wheelset, but the rear wheel touched the frame. My previous Bontrager 9D3 didn't. So i wanted to extend the set screws in the rear drop outs a little further out. No problem on the drive side, but on the non drive side it seem to be stuck in the frame. Even with some force it doesn't turn and now i can't run the 808. I have my challenge almere amsterdam ld tri in two weeks. Any idea how to get the thing lose?

Thanks,

Jeroen

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

Try a little localized low heat and a new hex key without a ball end socket.

Dave

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

SD, thanks for the quick reply. That didn t work. It is as stuck as it can be. Any other suggestion before drilling it out. Can i get this set screw as a spare part?

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

Hey SuperDave,
Few questions as I embark on ordering mine in the next day or so.
1. Can you give me the REAL differences between the IA FRD and IA1 frameset? Same aerodynamics yes, but with different carbon layup, what's the measurable differences overall?
2. My LBS is telling me I'm a size 54. I'm 5'8" with a 73 cm top of saddle to center of BB. Just curious if you think that's accurate or need to move down to 51.

Thanks for your help Dave!!!

The REAL differences are simply the mass of the frame and fork. The stem, bar, brakes, seatpost, internal storage, etc... are all 100% the same. It was our intention to make a UHC Performance seatpost and bar (not the premium UHC Ultimate + Nano) and a forged stem and Taiwan made brakes but we simply ran out of time to prototype, test, and mass produce more economical options. If you don't care about the ~300g the wind won't know you're on an IA1 vs. an IA FRD.

Buy the biggest frame that can fit you. You can get a saddle height of 73cm easily on a 54cm. Without knowing the rest of your fit requirements I'm inclined to agree with your LBS and suggest you get a 2nd opinion if you don't trust their judgement. The bigger frame will be more aerodynamic so unless you want to run the front end exceptionally low the 54cm would be the better choice.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era