Dave I have a big problem with my IA FRD. Something is rattling around in my areo bars and they also creak really bad. The bike just spend 3 weeks at Fraizer bikes and not fixed. Ron is been trying to get info from you or someone at Felt with no luck. The bike is so noisy it is not fun to ride. I have had other riders next to me asking why the bike is so noisy. Was going to race this bike at Munice but it was sitting in the shop. Ironman Wisconsin is around the corner, can not use this bike the way it is! Some help please

I don't recall Ron trying to reach me but I don't work in the sales or customer service office. Those departments are in a different state/county. I work in Irvine at the global development center so any calls wouldn't likely reach my desk.

I've got a presentation today for the cycling media at our office and a full day on Wednesday but I can fly to Michigan on Thursday and try to make some time to go see Ron at Fraser. Clearly there is something amiss as the bike is very quiet with normal assembly and use.
I trust the bike is at Fraser now?

-Dave

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Dave, just picked the bike up yesterday went to kensigton for hills and test ride problem not solved. Ron wants it back, will be at store 10 am thrusday. thanks

rhudson,

Had the same problem. Creaking aerobars that are really PIA.
Tried to solve it with putting anti seize paste on every bolt and surface on the aerobar, stem and contact points there. Didn t do anything.
So I ended up cutting some small strokes of rubber from an old innertube. Placed those small strokes/pieces on the flat surface there is on the stem where the aerobar surface mounts on. Just in between the four bolds that mount the aerobar on the stem. Carefully place the aerobars back on the stem and tighten the bolts. You will see the creaking noise will be gone. The rattling is probably not the aerobar but the brake or shifter cable or both that rattles in the downtube. When you remove the cal pack you have much more room to get to those cables. Place some good larger tie raps on the cables deep enough in the downtube so that they prevent the cables from rattling as they put them tight in the downtube. What also works is to put the shiv bladder in there as i wrote and pictured a few post back. That also puts those cables tight in the downtube and prevents the rattling.

But the pieces of rubber between the four bolts will be your rescue. When i discovered this and the problem was solved i began to just love this bike.

Have a great IM and let me know if it helped.

Regards,

Jeroen

---

Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

Thanks Jeroen for the reply. Have had the cal box out , thought the noise might be coming from there. Stuffed some soft packing material down to see if it stop the noise, it did not. Thought it might be the the barrel adjuster for the brake ,wraped that no luck. Thought it maybe the battery cables it was not. The sound is almost like a dead ball bearing rolling around when you hit rough pavement or climb out of the saddle to climb a hill and swing the bike. It sounds like it is in the base bar. I had several hundred miles on the the bike before it started. The bike is going back to the shop on thrusday will pass along your solution. Some how I missed your shiv bladder thread. I own an S Works shiv and I love that bladder in the frame.I knew someone would come up with an idea to install one in the IA FRD will do a search. Thanks will update....russ

Thanks dave, my dealer is in contact with the warranty department. They tried 'every possible way' including reinstalling a completely new brake from another new IA but still have the same problem of not opening fully. They wrote a lengthy report and findings to a person named Gerard but have not yet heard back. Unfortunate that my bike is sitting in their shop for a few weeks now and I can't train for my upcoming races. Darryl

Could I order a blacked out version of the bike like this from my dealer?

Frame only or complete bike?

No, the raw frames are not available to consumers

SD

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Jeroen, thank you for replying to my problem concerning the creaky handle bars and the other noises that I am having with my IA FRD. You were a big help ,Super Dave was not. As you know there are bolt guides that are suppose to fit together when you install the handle bars. The guides extend past the mounting surface so you would think that one side fits into the other side locking the handle bar in place then install the bolts. Mine would not do that. So Ron from Fraser bikes was trying to find out from Felt [Super Dave] if he needed to use fit washers between the bolt guides. After many emails, phone calls 3 weeks had past Ron finally got hold of someone at Felt to answer the question No fit washers. The one side needs to fit inside the other, mine did not. Ron had to ream out the female end to get the bar to sit flat on tn the spacer. That did not solve the creaking. But what you said to do, did. I printed out your thread gave it to Ron and he made a gasket out of an old inner tube ,creaking gone.Thank you. Now the other noise that I thought was coming from the base bar turned out to be the two piece nose cone. The only way you could create the noise was ride the bike, go over bad roads or climb out of the saddle and sway the bike like you would climbing. Inside the showroom floor shaking or bouncing the bike would not create the noise. Ron actually got on another bike rode along side of me to find where the the noise was coming from. The stress of climbing caused the two pieces to flex in away that it sounded like a ball bearing rolling around inside the handle bars. [Is'nt carbon fiber wonderful] Sanded down the lower lip of the top nose cone added some friction grease... bad noise gone. After 200 hundered miles over the last couple days alittle bit of the noise has returned. So I need to work on it some more. Wonder why they did not make that two piece nose cone, one piece. Thanks for taking time to address my problem, I was hoping that I was not the only one....I was not.....Russ

Dear Dave,
I have a question of how to pack the bike into a hard case.
My case is Bikebox Allan made in U.K. which requires a steering with DH bar to separate from the bicycle. It's easy to remove Di2 wire cables and the front brake caliper, but LBS and me can't imagine how to handle the rear brake wire. Is it possible to tether the rear brake wire from the steering bar, in order to lay it aside the AI frame in the bike box ? I can imagine easily if you can tell it's the same way of Cervelo P5-six to be packed, leshed with the rear oil hose, shown in their user manual. Hope you can tell me how to pack the IA bike in the hard case for the race place.
Sincerely yours,

Russ,

Glad you were able to get your Felt Dealer to find a solution for you. I was told my assistance was no longer needed so I did not stop in at Fraser when I was in Michigan. The fit of the metal recesses of the base bar are supposed to engage the stem and "lock" together not unlike a Lego brick. If excessive clear coat covered these metal surfaces they may not engage in the stem all the way causing a gap and imprecise fit. The two flat surfaces of the stem and carbon bar must contact with the 4 stem bolts sandwiching the male metal lip into the female recess on the stem.

The nose cone has to be two pieces so it can be installed and "accordion" to accommodate the different sizes and some tolerance.

If you have any further questions or if Ron at Fraser needs any further explanation you both have my email, phone number, etc.

I was able to get to one of our dealers who had an IA they were assembling and fitting to one of their customers and it went together smoothly.


I do think your situation is quite unusual and rectifiable.

Best regards,
SD

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Is there anyone who can mount a water bottle at the end of saddle ? Thanks to a wider seat tube, it's apparently difficult to mount the bottle holder at the end of saddle ? If it's possible, can you tell which manufacture's and its type can be fit well, there ?

Fizik?
-SD

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Removing the brake covers can allow you to disconnect the brake trolley or carrier where the inner wire is mounted. The cross brace on the brake caliper can come off by removing the two 3mm hex head bolts.

-SD

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

How hard (or fragile, or finicky) is the removal and reinstallation of the fork on the IA? On a scale of 1-10, with 3 being a regular bike and 8 a Bayonet SL (first-gen) fork? Is there a guide that addresses that?

Love the idea of a Ruster Sports case, love the IA, and I'm reasonably mechanically apt and quite happy to tinker and adjust. How reasonable would it be to combine the two?

---

ZONE3 - We Last Longer

We tested two IA's this week, and had no trouble getting a cage tucked right up against the ISM Attack saddle. In fact, one rider had one tucked close, while the other had a mount that kept his about 2cm away from the saddle. Significant difference in drag. Tuck it up close!

---

Jim Manton / ERO Sports

Dave thanks for the reply. Took everything apart in the nose cone again added some clear tape to the inside lip, friction greased everything, now quite as a chruch mouse....... except for a buzzing brake lever which as nothing to do with you. Glad to see Tom Demerly back where he belongs, stilll one of the best fitters around.

Here is a pic of mine - hopefully that is tucked up close enough!
6 zipties, and I have a couple of small pieces of electrical tape layered up between the cage and the contact points where it touches the back of the seat and the seat post.

Thanks for providing the picture. It's good to know the way. I can imagine how to put the bottle cage with plastic bands. So, I need to newly band it whenever participating in the race, correct ? Still more, do you mean that there is no given manufacturer's support to be fit at the end of the saddle, by whichever carbon or stainless steel is ?

Well, you could just leave it back there all the time, but I do take mine off and on for races - takes less than 5 minutes. Only reason I take mine off is so that I can put a small tool bag on the back for training, and having a bottle on the seat tube is more convenient.

Thanks for replying to me. Well, I would like to know how to handle the rear cable wire, for laying the steering handle aside the IA frame in the case ? Do you mean that I need to remove the reak brake caliper from the frame ? And, it must be difficult to reassemble it at the race place, correct ?

Thanks for the great information. However, it seems like plastic bands are being slacken off gradually.
Did you try to put a given manufacturer's support unit to be fit at the end of the saddle, for using it all the time,
by such as Xlab, Profile designe, and some ?

Yeah, Fizik works well.

MC

Oh, it's great. I can spare the time. Could you please tell the name of Fizik bottle gage system ? Is there some trouble to keep using it at the time ?