This has probably been mentioned, but I can't get the base bar where it needs to be. What are my options?

Buy a Speed Concept? Which, at the time of launch, has every part available to consumers as it relates to fitting people to the bike. Same story with every release of a Felt TT/tri bike. You'd think they'd have learned from the issues with production of DA stem configurations so as not to go through this entire scenario again.

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"One Line Robert"

That depends on where you need it to be.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Trek STILL hasn't delivered my dual rear water bottle holder

I didn't know you needed that to nail your fit on a bicycle?

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"One Line Robert"

The SC is more aero with the water bottle holder

I don't think you know how to read.

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"One Line Robert"

Hey Dave, spent that last couple days reading through this whole thread here. Two questions for you... first is there a hydration bladder option with this bike :) J/k.

But seriously, over the past couple months there have been comments regarding availability and when bikes where going to be shipped out. I am on the fence of stopping by my LBS to speak with my fitter about what size I would need, most likely the size I would need a 58 and thinking of ordering just the frameset. Is there still a delay in getting these out? Im located in SE wisco. I'm trying to decide if this is something I could build and still have for my late season race, or if this is something I can keep mulling over and build it this winter.

Thanks for all the help!
Ryan

They'll be shipping 2015 this summer. The 58cm XL frames just finished/cleared all QA steps.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Dang Dave - that thing is slammed! Interesting to see the shifter cables running through the side of the bento lid, if I am seeing that correctly?
I guess there is not a better way to run cables with the extensions mounted below the base bar, huh?

The thing I am most interested in is that the Bento Box cover looks to be slightly redesigned - does it stay put any better? Unlike others that have posted here I actually find it to be just right for a tube, CO2, chuck, lever and a 3mm allen wrench in the front part, and a gel or two and a few electrolytes in the rear flappy part. My only beef is that it won't stay put when the road gets lumpy. Stinks just a little to have to use tape to secure a piece that is otherwise "integrated" on a grazillion dollar bike. Honestly that is the ONLY real complaint I have about this bike Well, OK, that and the 3mm screws ;^) . It rides like a dream and is fast as lightening, at least compared to the P2 I came off of, which of course I always thought was a pretty good bike to begin with.

Actually that's an old cover I chopped up to make work. A properly trimmed extension will allow the housing to run up from the back and down into the frame behind the stem. The routing you see here isn't great for actually having to turn because the two sides tend to "push" the bars back to center.

I'm sorry to read the cover doesn't stay snapped on your bike over rough roads. I was concerned they were too difficult to open in the head of "battle" for nutrition vs. just having the stuff taped to the frame.
One tip I've discovered is you'll want to remove the cover if you travel with the bike on a roof or trunk rack.

Post pix of your bike, it is always interesting to see the individual set ups especially the bar/extension positions.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Sure thing, Dave.
Here you can see my hand position due to the short-ish extensions that ship with the bike. I kinda like it, actually. You can just make out that my middle fingers are on the shift buttons - with this hand position I shift with that finger instead of my thumbs. Base bar is slammed, and arm pads pedestaled, just like Dan would like:



In this one you can see that the extensions are pushed as far forward as they can go. This was taken right after my race this weekend in Chattanooga. The roads were under construction and rough in places. I hit a transition between road surfaces hard and you can see the right extension twisted down. Narrowly avoided a hard crash when my elbow flew off the pad. Completely, 100% my fault as I know to check the torque on my bolts before every race but I just didn't this time. You will also see that the bento lid flew off and I actually lost it down the road, along with my flat kit, etc. I think you have already been on the phone with my LBS about a replacement, and told them you wouldn't have one until August, correct? - No biggie - but I would LOVE to have the bike back complete before AG Nationals. If you happen to have another old one laying around that I could chop up to make work in the meantime that would be awesome! ;^)

BTA bottle is pushed all the way back, held on with zip ties, and the computer (Garmin 800) is out front mounted with a barfly with the tape wrapped over it. Just enough room for everything and nice and clean.


Here is overall position and setup, rolling in to T2 - you can just make out that I have my right arm resting on the base bar. Computer is between my hands, BTA bottle seems to be nicely hidden, but not sure how that rear bottle looks. If anyone has alternative suggestions I am all ears:


And one last one of just the bike, I have posted it to the thread before. Everything but the Enves and vectors are stock LTD; and I was lucky enough to get mine while they were still shipping with the Textreme seat post and Attack saddle.


If you want to see any other setup detail shots let me know and I will add them.

ETA: It is probably obvious, from the pics, but I have currently elected to run 25s (heresy around here, I know!) At some point I will do a little controlled testing to find out for sure, but they roll like butter and I think that counts for something. They seem plenty fast.

This just made my Speed Concept a little jealous (just a little, but she'll get over it)... Murdered out Felt IA (although it needs 8.9's) for the win!

I hear you on the tires. I'm running 24mm/27mm Paves on the bike now and I'm enjoying the extra cushion that the larger volume and 90psi afford.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Dave - any future options coming as far as a hi/low basebar? I'm looking to get a bit lower in the front end and my arm pads are already flush w the basebar and extensions are mounted under the basebar as well?

Thanks in advance

Yes.

-Dave

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Ok, WHEN will it come out?

I'm running conti 28mm for training tires. Love it!

MC

Sorry, it was a very busy time

so the image on the DIY manual for the fuelsealage in the IA seem not to work here is the link to the page where I placed it. If someone can actually place here on ST feel free to copy it.

http://www.tri-run.nl/...sealage-for-felt-ia/

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

Hi dave
I am a recent proud owner of the felt ia in Hong Kong, bought from a local authorised dealer. I love the bike but having some issues with the brakes, especially the rear. I use the default reynolds wheels. It seems that the brakes don't fully 'open' leaving sufficient gap between the brake pad and wheel. After an unfortunate run in light rain, the brakes did not open at all and was stuck in clinching (braking) mode. I was told that sand was stuck in the braking rails causing failure. The dealer tried to fix but didn't work and had to change the brake. I'm suspecting the coil is not powerful enough to open up the brakes fully. Have you heard of this problem and can it be fixed?
Darryl

No, I haven't heard of this issue but it sounds like contamination in the system somewhere. Make certain the brake caliper isn't binding on the brake cover and that the cable housing was not kinked during installation.

-Dave

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Noted and thank you, it maybe the cable housing. I will revert the message. Thanks!

I'm seeing the same thing in both brakes and my shop just replaced cables. I found you have to drop the brake levers hard, or flip them to get the brake to release all the way. If you ease them out normally they don't release all the way. Try that. Doesn't seem like how they should work, but it's what I'm seeing. My shop ended up shaving off some of the brake pad. I also think the coil/spring is not strong enough to push the guide all the way down on the track. the cable has no extra friction.

MC

I don't think the contamination you are experiencing is the same thing as the pivot binding the poster above is describing.
I need to rely on our dealers that can actually see the brake rather than speculate on what might possibly be causing the two issues you both have described.
-Dave

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

I was wondering if anyone had gone from a Shiv to an IA and what differences they noticed. I'm thinking of making the change.

thanks