Oops Yes sorry 56

SuperDave helpfully provided a list of Di2 parts and wire lengths in an earlier post (for someone with a 51cm) here:
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=5367021#5367021

I'm just now building up a 58cm and the wire lengths are all good (though I did go with 550mm instead of 500mm for the RD wire just to have a bit more length.)

What bolts did you use to attach extensions and elbow rests?

Thanks!

Maybe it would help if I describe in more detail...

The bolt used to attach the armrest to the extensions (with extensions above base bar) if fairly flush/ flat. But when I attach armrest directly to base bar, this bolt is not used? Instead I've been trying the bolt and lock nut which are used to attach extensions to base bar... but this bolt is not flush/ flat and protrudes through the armrest padding... same if I try with locknut on top of armrests- it also protrudes through padding.

If anyone has mounted extensions below base bar I'd be really grateful if they could share what bolts are used. Or if SuperDave is around and can provide info.... much appreciated.

Race set-up. Non UCI ten mile TT coming up. Bottle cage will still be taken off.

What is the best of preferred aero bottle to run on the frame? What is everyone using as far as hydration setup? Front, behind seat, frame, etc.

TIA!

Hey Dave,
I was wondering if you happen to have a 3d model of the stem cover? (Or if anyone else out there does). Im contemplating a 3d printed SRM mount, built into the stem cover... and before I go get the stem cover commercially scanned, figured I'd ask.

i still try to build a custom calPac like posted before. i like to have my spare tubular in the front area, what will make the setup very clean. Has anyone a 3D file for this bigger version available - i have access to a very professional 3D printer.


Thanks for help
Arnd

Should be possible, email me.

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

I just put the aero 30 from Torhans on mine and was almost able to get it flush with the frame. From everything I looked into it seems to be the best solution IMO

Dave, do you know if there will be longer versions of the IA stem available anytime? I now have the stem adapter which gives me the perfect fit but I would love to use the integrated cockpit.

Hello
We need a bit of a help

We built a IA 1 with ultegra di2 FD/RD
Rotor 3D+ MAS crank with qrings AERO 52/36

All went fine but we are struggling shifting up the FD, a pro mechanic checked everything and we cant have a smooth up shifting, down is fine
He is suspecting that the mount point is no rigid enough ,we see the FD moving when shifting, kinda in and out, and if we press with our fingers in that area we feel that's not rigid enough to make the upshifting smooth
We were thinking of changing the 1,6mm seal for a smaller one maybe to bring the qring closer to the frame and help shifting,
Any feedback would be appreciated

Thank you

I second the question regarding longer stem attachments for the IA. I still want to use the dagger aerobars, but I'm maxed out on the front end. Only option I and my mechanic can tell is to ditch the dagger, buy the 3d party 110mm from felt and then buy a new aerobar to attach. thanks.

Would a larger frame (2cm longer) solve the length issue you had?

-Dave

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Did you back off the high limit set screw to allow the front derailleur cage to move further out?
I assure you the SubStance front derailleur mount has less deflection than a 52t oval chainring on 110mm BCD.
I would not alter the 43.5mm chainline specified by Shimano, there is ample stroke in the F/D if you adjust the travel limits.

-Dave

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

These are some pictures to illustrate the problem. No way I can replicate the position with the integrated stem. The extensions are also very short. With a longer integrated stem, all would be perfect though...




Dave, any longer integrated stems in the pipeline? I'm sure that more people will fit on the IA, increasing the sales potential a lot.

Looking to replace the pads on my stock IA elbow rests. I really like how thin the stock ones are and don't need any more padding than they offer, but looking for something a little more "grippy."
I find the stock ones get mighty slippery in the heat and humidity. Any better suggestions?

Hello Dave
Thx for the reply
Yes the high limit set screw is maxed out.
On a free ride (I mean home trainer with no resistance) it changes w/o any issues
but on a normal ride (where the rear wheel isnt freely spinning, if you see what I mean) then we have issues shifting up the FD
so strange ... Never had such behaviour on my other di2 bikes, but that's the first we build with rotor though

And your diagnosis is that the front derailleur mount is only flexing when there is resistance on the rear wheel? What would cause the front derailleur area to flex when NOT in the trainer?
Oval chainrings are notorious for poor and erratic shifting performance.
Try a Shimano crankset and see if the shifting improves, that would help isolate the source.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Fizik?
Overwrap the pad with trainer tape?

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Go up one frame size.
Mount the arm rest on the base bar and the extensions under it.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Just as a quick trouble shoot to your problem, have you made sure that the support bolt is correctly supporting the derailleur? I.e. is it driven down all the way to the little metal plate that shimano supplies with the FD

Hello
Yes the little metal plate you put against the frame you mean ?, we removed it and the shifting improved
could be coincidence though.
Like Dave suggested, it is probably due to the oval chainring

On my Felt AR road bike it is shimano DA crankset and all is perfect but the rigidity at the FD is a lot stiffer
on the IA it is weird, I need to find another rider with an IA to compare if my frame is faulty or not
just to be sure ..

Will keep testing ..

Was the support bolt driven into that? If not, that may help.

Otherwise, idk. Never had oval rings.

I ll have to double check that tomorrow
I just brought the bike to my mechanic to do some adjustments
We removed the plate thinking the FD couldnt move out enough for a smooth shifting
it is a lot better than at the beginning, the shifting works in 70% but sometimes it is like missing a tiny pit to push the chain ..
kinda strange ..
Thx for the tip may retry to place that support mini plate