Hi,
I've just bought a brand new SC7.5. My question is, does the bike comes with extra parts? The seller told it was just the bike... Another question, does a brand new bike needs to come with any kind of documentation??? I haven't received any manuals, guarantee cards, etc. Is it correct?
Thanks!

Who was the seller?

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,
I've bought in the Trek Bicycle Store in Sao Paulo, Brazil. Is the official store of trek here!

The retail process and what's included with the bike may differ outside of the US. Still, there are no "extra parts" I know of which would come with a stock 7.5. As for manuals and such, in the US we used to include a DVD with owners manual info and I think it had a registration "card" function as well. Wouldn't surprise me if that has gone 100% online, but I don't know for sure if that's the case.

Regardless, here are the product registration and Contact Us pages for Brazil...the latter may be your best bet for answers to your questions regarding manuals etc:

http://www.trekbikes.com/br/pt_BR/productRegistration
http://www.trekbikes.com/br/pt_BR/contactUs

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl!!!
I'll contact them!!!

hi guys. any after market armpads that can fit the speed concept gen 1 arm rest. sori but the bontrager one just dont last at all. went thru more pairs than i should have? shall i jus go for a whole new arm rest set from zipp, 3t, or profile design?

looking for some sizing help on new SC. Reply is to Carl, but anyone is welcome :-)

Currently on SC 9, size Small, bought in 2012. It fits me pretty well. I have the 100mm, 0-rise stem with 2cm of spacers under the pads.

Has the sizing on the new model changed that much? Looking on the Trek site the sizing chart is pretty minimal -- not like I remember it from '12. It lists my height (5'9") as fitting Medium.

My current measurements on the '12 SC 9 are:
pad reach: 47.5 middle of pad (43 beginning of pad)
aero extension reach: 76
pad stack: 56 (not counting foam pad which adds another cm)
basebar stack: 51.5 (measured at brifter)
saddle height: 66 to rails (71.5 top of saddle)

I'm guessing this still puts me on a Small, but maybe the sizing has changed such that I'd be on a Medium?

thanks for any help.

Have you read the fit guide?

http://www.slowtwitch.com/...C_FitGuide_final.pdf

No where in there does it talk about height. The speed concept has the broadest fit range of any bike out there.

Based on your coordinates.... small. Medium won't fit.

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blog

thanks ... had not found that! Is that an official Trek document? I was on their site, and all I could find was this: http://www.trekbikes.com/...e_bikes_speedconcept

Looks like I want a Small with Low-Far stem (which I think is essentially what I have now? 100mm, 0 rise)

Yeah its an official trek document. They re-designed the website a few months back and that document and the service document were removed accidentally. Carl has been trying to get them back on the website but there are other places you can find the documents.

Yes low far steam with the 15 mm monospacer + the 5 mm spacer under the pad wing.

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blog

thanks again!

sizing changed slightly, in favor of lower front ends on the long stems...that's probably why you're seeing a Medium come up.

on a gen1 SC9 Small with 100/10 stem and 20mm of spacers your pads should be at ~58cm (~57cm without pads), and that should put you right at the lower bound of what a gen2 Medium SC can achieve with the low-far stem and the lowest (15mm) monospacer. no room to go lower though, so the Small may still be the better choice for position flexibility.

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Carl Matson

thanks. I measure 56cm without pad, but then I have the bars tilted up a bit, so that lowers the front edge is a bit. If level probably spot-on to what you say. I have gone lower, although this setup seems to be working the best for me. Would rather not be locked into this as the lowest possible, so will go with the small. thanks again.

I'm curious about this too. Seems like Trek orders for replacements take forever at my LBS and I can't order them directly from Bontrager anymore.

cee gee pads. They are awesome.

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blog

What about the actual arm rests that screw into my aero bars? Am I stuck with Bontrager on those? Thanks for the reply.

Hey there. I'm on a 2011 SC 7.0 and I was wondering how easy/difficult it is to recable the bike. Specifically, I'm wondering if I could recable the rear brake on my own if I just got a new cable myself. The cable I have now somehow frayed in the lever and now gets stuck when I brake. I've looked around for answers, but different people say different things. Is there housing inside the frame or would I have to try to guide it down and fish it out?

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Hi Redx, I've re-cabled a LOT of 7 series SC's lately (my own included, let me say running nokons on an SC is a challenge to mechanic game) and I would say whether you can do it on your own will depend on your skill wrenching your own bike.

If you only need to replace the cable (not the housing as well) the most difficult thing you are going to run into is cutting the cable to the right length for the rear brake. The SC's design is not forgiving, too long and it pushes against the little spring, too short and you won't have enough to secure the pinch bolt. Ideally (if it brakes well now - or did before fraying the cable - not many SC's rear brakes were set up terribly well to begin with in my experience) you'll pull out the old cable, measure, (measure again) cut the new cable the same length, and install.

The thing that stinks about the 1st gen SC's rear brake (imo) is you really only know if you got it right or not AFTER you put everything back together and try it out.
So yes, you can do it yourself, but if you aren't comfortable wrenching on a bike, I would not put this in the "beginner friendly" category.

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

there is housing in the frame, but whether or not it stays in place (to make guiding the new wire easier) depends somewhat on your skill & familiarity with how the bike goes together.

I'm going to back up a moment though and ask how/why you think (or do you know for sure) that the cable is "frayed in the lever"? is that just a guess based on the lever not returning...which could have several different root causes?

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Carl Matson

I know that's one way to go about it, but I wouldn't recommend cutting the cable first...most new cables have welded tips which lower the risk of fraying the end on the way through. it's not that hard to make the cut (to clear the spring) after the fact. if the cutting tool can't quite get it short enough a little bend after the cut will do the trick.

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Carl Matson

fair enough.
replace "cut" with "mark length with a black sharpie"
:D

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

There really isn't any other way to describe it. I've done some wrenching on my bike before, but I have never seen anything quite like this. The cable actually unraveled into different strands just behind the tip that secures it in the lever. I looked all around for other problems, but that was all I found. I can physically push the tip of the cable back through after pulling the lever, but it does not return on its own.

Other than trimming it properly, I figured I could just run a new cable down without much difficulty as long as there was some way to guide it through the frame.

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[like]

:-)

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Carl Matson

OK, that's pretty definitive.

Yes, there's housing all the way to the rear brake. I recommend securing your handlebars in some fashion to prevent them from turning while you remove the old cable and run the new one, lest the housing get pulled out of the stop at the rear brake. It's not the end of the world if it does, but there will be more disassembly required to get it back into place.

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Carl Matson

Thanks, Carl and leegoocrap.

While I'm thinking about it, is recalling the derailleurs about the same situation and level of difficulty? This isn't a pressing cocern- just in case I ever decide to change my extensions at some point. If the extensions and housing were all the same length would I be able to run cables through the frame in the same way?

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