According to SuperDave, the weight difference for just the frame between the FRD and the non-FRD versions is ~300g, if that helps at all.
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=5234302#5234302

Just to put mass into perspective - an entire kilogram of extra weight at IM Florida will cost you 10 seconds.

If a frame is 1kg heavier but has a CdA that is .001 better (equivalent to ~10 grams of drag @30mph) then the heavier frame will be 10 seconds faster at IM Florida.

So, mostly you can just totally ignore weight, because weight it never different by that much and the drag curves are never that equal. I'd sooner worry about subtle fit/maintenance issues. Hell even things like, bottom bracket standards and how good of a bottom bracket can I buy for it. Because while that barely matters enough to worry about, it matters more than mass.

If you particularly target *really* mountainous races (Savageman, IM France, Norseman, etc) then you might consider weight, and even more important - aerobar setup options and brakes, so that you can descend fast on them. Some of the superbikes with integrated brakes or base bars that you can't position where you want them for descents can be a problem.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Thanks ols, that helps a lot :)

Thanks. Aero over maintenance for me :)

Gregarious, good point. I will probably buy the felt anyway. I just want to make a fully informed decision.

Thanks Jackmott. Great info!

SD, please forgive this semi Off-topic question. I have been fitted and the results (stack and reach) dictates that I get a size 56 for an s32 (the white one, think it is 2013 or 2014) or an IA size 56.

In terms of similar fit, how do the 2014 B14 size 56 and 2013 B12 size 56 compare?

And how do these compare to the 2015 models/geometry?

Fitting on a s32 size 56 is the baseline. (could get the for $1149 today)

The 2014 B14 size 56 and 2013 B12 size 56 use the identical frame molds. The resultant fit is the same. 2015 models also use this same frame mold.
The S32 uses the same geometry but the base bar on the S32 cannot get quite as low with the stock configuration but that is a result of the equipment specified, not the frame itself.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

SD, one other question...again, apologies for the hijack. LBS (Flying Fish in TPA) has a 2013 B12 for $2199 and a 2015 B14 for $1999 (both size 56, so I'm good there too).

Can you please explain to me, in plain english, what the differences are? I've got the specs side by side on an excel spreadsheet, but I don't understand any of the differences. Biggest things I see are:
- better wheels on the B12 (right?)
- better aero drink system on the B12
- better cogs (11sp) on the B14

don't know about the BB differences, cranksets, or shifter differences (ie, which is 'better')

Exact same:
- frame
- seatpost
- handlebars
- stem
- saddle
- Shimano ultegra on both
- Same tires (who cares about this, no biggie here)
- , . Right?

Just trying to get my mind around this. Been 15 years since I've bought a bike, and I need to make this count. If I should PM you offline, I can do that. Just let me know.

Thanks.

15 years removed the differences I'll detail will be largely moot.

In general I suggest that people "buy up" to the latest drivetrain generations offered by the big brands. This means that the 11 speed equipped bike in this case (2015 B14). This will be much easier to service in the coming years in terms of chain and chainring replacement and premium goods such as powermeters, chains, cassettes will continue to be offered with the latest advancements. It is very difficult to find a Dura-Ace 9 speed cassette and impossible to source an 11-28t size for example. Dura-Ace 11 speed is readily available today and will continue to be for the next ~3 years.

To say the B12 wheels are "better" is really splitting hairs. The 2013 spec are not 11 speed compatible so I'd again point you to that as a guiding point in your decision.
The aero drink system is worth a bit of free speed but it can be purchased for the 2015 version of the B-series bike. Add the Di2 downtube battery cover to that purchase for another couple free watts.

The tech advances are not quite as rapid as the computer or software industry but there are similar milestones that you should really try to reach to maintain ease of compatibility for future service. 11 speed is one of them when comparing the two bikes you've mentioned.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Again, many thanks. One last question....

What is it about the '15 that makes it $200 less expensive than an older, (close to being) outdated bike?

From an OEM cost perspective the crankset, tires, handlebar, saddle, bottle, cable housing, inner tubes and the loss of the B16 in the US market requiring a reposition of the B14 as well as tooling amortization schedules.
-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Hi Dave
My IA4 has arrived at LBS - looking at power meter options. I've read that clearance on IA rules out Garmin Vectors.
Can you confirm?
Thanks
B

Not Dave, but I ran Vectors on mine all last year with no issues. (well, I sheared off one of the plugs during a race, but that wasn't the fault of the IA....)
I would be interested to see where you read that and learn what the real issue might be.

I read it on this thread...the Vectors are not compatible with Trimax Carbon TT... are they ok with non carbon versions? Good to hear you haven't had any compatibility issues :)

B

Looks like you need the NEW Large (15-18mm) for your Al Trimax. That is according to the Garmin. Metron cranks are not compatible. So the crank is compatible.

The other place to check is the chain clearance. You need 5mm between the crank and the chain (this is function of both the frame and the cranks.

https://support.garmin.com/...2-7dd9-000000000000}

Thanks for the info. Also considering Stages. Looking for something which is relatively easy to swap between Felt IA, Felt AR and Cube HPA… not that bothered if left crank doesn't match right as long as everything works and easy to switch.

Thanks

B

Any recommendations for between the aero bars hydration systems for the wide setup (~9in/220mm center to center)?

hello dave,
what year / model is the IA pictured? thanks!

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- Matt

The Torhans 30 mounted very close to the head tube is supposedly very aero as measured by Ero sports. Of course I do not know if this applies the wide set up.

DA Cranks on mine, and yes, the chain clearance is tight, particularly when in the big chainring and smallest cassette.
I sheered the plug off the left pedal while back pedaling in the big chainring/11 while hitting a rough patch of road which bounced the chain a little. Lesson learned.
Chaparral - interested to read that the frame enters into the function of chain clearance at the crank - I can't quite work that out in my brain and the link you posted is broken.
I see how the distance between the crank and rear wheel can change the chainline, what are the other factors?

Are the bar extensions 22mm? Thinking of changing to 3t or zipp ski-bends....

Think you mean the right pedal? I'm guessing less issues with left pedal clearance (no chain that side!) so Vector S would be a safer option?

Check your nose cones! Went to adjust my front brake on my new 3 week old IA1 that has been ridden twice for a total of 30 miles. Both screw opening cracked and broken. I had been hearing the thing chatter on the last ride. Now my $4500 frame is wrapped in electrical tape...classy! We will see how soon the LBS can get a replacement...good thing I am not starting serious training till end of March.