There are a few older threads that have covered similar topics. The bike was released about 18 months ago, so a quick search not too far back will get you lots of info.

To quickly address a couple points:
The front bottle - they just released a redesigned bottle and bento box. If your bottle simply slides in, it is the old style. It will fall out. The new bottle slides in, then there is a small (ping pong ball sized) cube that anchors it from the top and a piece that goes underneath that wraps around the front tire. This will not come out. If you've got the old style, get the new one from wherever you got the bike. Problem solved! Also, the new bento has slits and more volume than the old (worthless) flappy top. Get both and be happy!

Brakes - yup, hard to work with, but once I got them set, I have not had to mess with them. I can get away with this because: I rarely ride it outdoors (150 miles in the last year, mostly ride on the trainer and then roadie when on the road), my training wheels are the same width as my race wheels (Flo 30's vs. 60/disc), no need to swap pads (always Al brake tracks), brake track and tire widths are the same. The last one is big concerning your second point. I simply open the quick release skewer and the wheel slides out. This is a good thing aero wise, so consider a tire which does the same?

I don't know why they couldn't use a 5 port and longer wires. I'd guess it is to limit the number of Di2 wires going through that port in the headtube to the 3port. That port is a real design flaw. I'd strongly suggest putting heat shrink tubing on all wires going through that area or else they will rub and eventually break. I put some gorilla tape on the edges of the pass-through port to be double safe. (The builder did the heat shrink from the start.)

I have taken apart the front end several times and it is very easy. Three top bolts (maybe 5 mm) and 5 on the cover (3 mm?). It literally takes about 2 minutes to open up and less than 5 to put back on. There is a hidden silver/gold bolt the goes up into the "stem" to drop the base bar free. While certainly not as easy popping off 4 stem bolts and dropping the front end, it is indeed pretty dang fast.

Flat kit? Not yet. I've only done up to 40k, so I haven't bothered. For a HIM this summer, I'll use the single rear bottle and then tape a kit to the backside of that, under the seat. There is plenty of space. If you don't need the bento storage, a tube and co2 just might fit in the new one, but it'd be tight.

I hope so, but lack of a good 3rd party side by side test leaves that unanswered. It simply never took off strong enough to make it into the various tests which always include the P5, Shiv, Felt ia, etc. I'm sure it's fine and not a huge aero liability, but who knows really? I sure like riding it and working around its quirks hasn't been any issue for me so far.

Post up a pic!

I have a 2010 Advanced Trinity SL-1. IMHO, there is still nothing out there faster. However, the only time I've used taken it to a destination race is if Tri-Bike Transport took it there. Last year, I converted my Trinity to a 1 x 10 so it's even faster now; but it's pretty much my flat course bike for coastal Florida. I don't have Di2 on it, but I would say that there is NO advantage. I might shift the rear DR just a few times in a race...sort of like braking; I don't do that much either. If I am going to a hilly race or need to fly my race bike with me I take my BMC TM01.

Thanks for the responses. I've read the other threads, just thought it would be helpful if there was one thread for the Trinity that we could all use in order to troubleshoot. Most of the other bike models have a similar thread.

I've got the new bottle and new bento so looks good on that front!

Unfortunately, for those of us who use aluminum training wheels and then switch to a wider carbon wheel, the brake adjustment issue remains. However, this isn't new to the Trinity, many other makes have the same crappy stock brakes. My Felt DA4 rear brake was borderline useless and the adjustment screws couldn't overcome the poor design.

For Di2 I was thinking a 5 port junction in the nose would be far more simple. Then you could send a single wire to the A-Junction in the bento.

I agree you can take the covers and base bar off relatively quickly, but I think it's not a good way to travel with the bike in a bike bag. You'd basically have to re-rout all your Di2 cables and maybe even brake cables in order to fit the bike in a regular bike bag. I think the best solution is a bike bag like the Scicon which allows the bars to remain on the bike. Of course, the bag is really expensive.

During 70.3 or longer, I'll probably stick to CO2 and tube under the saddle or in the bento if possible. With all the though into their nutrition storage, I would've thought Giant would think of a better flat storage solution.

I'd love to see some wind tunnel data on the Trinity. The bike feeling or looking fast doesn't mean much if it isn't.

Indeed. Unfortunately, the B-junctions are only 4 port max! I guess Shimano did not anticipate TT bikes would have more stash space in front of a more rearward mounting spot for the A junction? Of course, you could put another 4 port B-junction under the stem. There might be room enough for that.


Yeah, standard stems make that a lot easier.With this bike, I would pop off the bars, unplug the Di2 wires at the B-junction that go towards the A-junction, then rotate the bars down and zip tie to the fork. There should be enough play in the brake cables to allow that. (Of course, there will be plenty of squishy stuff between those parts.)



Yeah, that'd be nice...but consider that when this bike was released, the only player with such a setup was the Trek with its draft box. I'd imagine that such an addon would have patent issues. The Giant came before the DB andean, p5x, new Dimond. Plus, these other three boxes have no UCI legal configurations. The Canyon managed to make a small storage cubby and remain UCI compliant, so no excuse for Giant.


I went to the UW tunnel with mine. But, that was just a single bike test. I can tell you that the aero bottle in the triangle was a good thing (for me at least).

Hello,

I am considering the Trinity advance pro 2 for my next bike. I was considering felt IA16 but I believe this setup is better value considering that the performance for a beginner is very similar.

I am just wondering about the rear brake if it will leave enough clearance to fit my 4iii powermeter (crank arm placement, similar to stages). Any comment about the clearance?



Thanks

How big is the pod? I could send a pic showing clearance tonight (Ultegra crank) if someone doesn't beat me to it with a a definitive yes/no.

Comparing the Felt to the Giant, tough choice. Those were my final two as well (since Canyon was not an option back then, but may be shortly for you?). I went with the Giant due to the integrated front end hydration and hoped that it would come out as an aero winner. The front bottle is definitely nice (especially with the new pieces), but jury is still out on the second.
If I was in the market today, I'd likely wait for the Speedmax or save up for the Scott. Those two have simply had better broad appeal and acceptance into the market. Giant still beats those on value, for sure!

I was previously on a Felt DA4 using Dura Ace cranks w/ a 4iiii Precision Power meter. With the Felt, the power meter needed to be placed carefully because the rear brake stuck out a bunch.

On my Trinity Adv. Pro 1 the rear brake is integrated in a much cleaner way (exact same brake as the Pro2). The brake fairings are flush with the chainstays. There is the adjustment bolt that sticks out a tiny bit, but all in all, I have tons of clearance for my 4iiii powermeter on the Giant. You could mount the power meter anywhere on the crank other than within an inch closest to the BB and have tons of room for it. I've been riding with my 4iiii power meter on the Pro1 for a month now.

I just bought the Advanced Pro 1, I had a Dura Ace Di2 group not in use so I swapped out the Ultegra for that, added a Quarq and put on some nicer wheels. I must say so far it is the nicest, most comfortable and best fitting bike I've ever ridden and I've owned just about everything including the Felt IA FRD and a few Trek Speed Concept 9.8's over the years. Keep in mind though that the Felt geometry and the Trinity are very different. I rode a 54 in the Felt and found it had a very high stack and short reach for me. In the Trek i was a medium but just couldn't get the front end to work for me, in the Trinity I had to go with a small and i swapped the S-bends out for a set of Zipp racing bend bars. .

The cables on my bike came pre-wrapped with heat shrink tubing so someone is listening! I also added a second B junction box in the front so that only one e-wire is going through the head tube area and I double wrapped that one in heat shrink tubing. Yes the brakes are a bit of a pain but overall not too bad, I've dealt with worse!

Overall I am very happy with this bike so far!! Oh by the way not sure if the 4iii pod will fit but I don't think it'll be an issue, there seems to be plenty of clearance there.

As to your other point, I agree that the Pro2 is actually significantly better value than the IA16. The IA16 has a 105 drivetrain and low end FSA cranks. That alone makes the Pro2 more desirable, with its Ultegra drivetrain and Ultegra crankset. I'd throw out that even the stock saddle on the Pro2 is a huge upgrade. The ISM PS1.0 is a legit $250-$300 saddle. It's rare to see manufacturers put a high end saddle like that on a stock bike, let alone on a bike around $3grand.

I've rode my Felt for years and I'm a big fan, but comparing those two options, the Giant seems the clear winner.

That's good to know that an additional B-junction box can fit in the front end! I might end up doing that. The routing in the front end is my biggest concern with the bike. So you only have the rear brake going through the front end as well as the Di2 wire connecting junction boxes then?

Overall, I'm pumped with my Pro1. Over the last month I've been dialling in the fit and it's feeling great.

Correct, great idea too! It'd require an additional Etube cable (as short as possible) and the B junction box, correct?

The front brake cable does not disappear into the headtube, but goes straight down.

I wrapped my rear brake cable as well to hold off rubbing (gorilla tape), but whenever I re-cable, I'll put heatshrink on there instead.

Correct. I added the B junction and a very short e-wire to connect one box to the other so the only thing going through the head tube is one e-wire and the rear brake cable... but I'm less worried about the brake cable obviously but that one also came from Giant already wrapped in heat shrink tubing.

Thanks for the info.

It seems I won't have a problem with the pod.

I would like to wait for the speedmax but it would mean do another season with my road bike.

Thank you. I have already installed the 4 iii in a Ultegra crank arm so hopefully won't be problem.

This is very interesting. I was fitted in a 54 felt IA. My bike shop does not have any in stock so it will have to be special order which means I won't be able to try the two different sizes.

Just wondering, does anyone have the Advanced Pro 0 with eTap? I'm building one and trying to figure out where to put the blipbox!? The blipbox is quite a bit larger than the Di2 junction box so it does not fit very well into the bento box. If anyone has a picture showing showing where it's mounted, or how the wires from the blips and clics are routed that would be super helpful!

Do you have the new (slit top) or old (flappy flap) bento? The new one is much roomier and I'm sure it would hold the blipbox. Even the cutout underneath is widened to allow easier install.

I have the 3port di2 junction and the d-fly stuck together in there and there is plenty of space. With the old bento, they had to be wriggled around to fit and still sat back far enough that they reduced usable storage volume.

Otherwise, you could mount it on top of the 'stem', in front of the bento. With the large bottle installed, it would be out of the wind.

It's got the new slit top bento. The blipbox can fit inside, but it certainly is not a clean fit. The blipbox can't be mounted, it has to sit kind of sideways loosely. The bento box is designed for the Di2 junction box which fits perfectly into a little cubby in the bento box.

Another concern I have with eTap on the Trinity/Avow is that you now have the rear brake cable and FOUR other wires from the blips and clics that have to run from the bar through the head tube to the blipbox. It's a tight fit to say the least. At least with Di2 you only have a brake cable and a single wire.

I think wire length would prevent mounting the blipbox on top of the stem and I prefer it being hidden away in the bento box.

Hmmm, gotcha.
I've never held a blipbox, so I don't have a great feel for its size (apparently). Given that, it also clearly won't fit in the nose, bummer.

You could go a little crazy custom and put it in the front water bottle. Plastic weld a compartment inside and run the multiple wires there. Clearly, if you ever need to convert to a UCI legal setup, this would be tricky. If you know solidworks (or know someone who does), you could design and print a piece that sits near the nose and anchors to the bars to house it. This would be prettier than having it out in the air, which is the easiest route.

Whatever you do, please post it up here.

What does Giant do with it? Isn't one of the new 2017 bikes e-Tap? It'd be interesting to take a look at their setup.

Question for everyone: I found two velcro pieces in a little zip-lock back that came with my bike, One is small and rectangular and the other is round and about the size of a quarter, both sides of the velcro are there... anyone have an idea on what these are for? There's no mention of them in the dealer manual.

I've talked with Giant reps and the eTap solution is as I've described, hide the blipbox in the bento loosely (or creatively find a way to secure it inside the blipbox). Fitting the 4 eTap wires through the headtube is the only way to go as well.

I have my own Trinity Adv. Pro 1 and the Avow I'm working on is for a customer at my bike shop. I was just wondering if anyone out here has come up with some other solution!

Every bike comes with a bunch of extras like those velcro pieces when it's shipped to the bike shop. I believe those velcro pieces are technically for securing a Di2 junction box, or a Blipbox, but I didn't use them either.

Where Can you get the new bento box with slit hoping to find online

Contact the store you bought the bike. They will hook you up. If you got it direct, find a local Giant distributor and sweet talk them a bit. Have your serial number handy. IF they won't help you, ask for thier contact's info. It oughta be free, but I wouldn't be surprised if they charge you for the effort involved.

You'd likely have to buy the bento box from a Giant dealer as I think it's made specific for their bikes.

Has anyone installed the D-Fly EW-WU111 unit on their Di2 equipped Trinity Advanced? It's the new inline wireless transmitter so I don't think mounting on the seat stay makes any sense. Shimano recommends not installing the unit inside the bike, but on the Trinity everything is internal so there aren't many other options.

I have the old version mounted in the bento box, rubber-banded to the A-junction. It works just fine, broadcasting to the computer mounted on my bars.
(On my roadie, a TCR, it's in the seattube and also works, but BT might not be as good transmitting through the frame as ANT+).

So, you have two easy spots to mount it: in the bento or in the front headtube cover. I bet either would work.

I have mine in one of the aero extensions, with some bar tape around it to avoid rattling. Mind you that I have the SW-R9160 extension shifters, which come without cables, so I have a 150mm cable between that and the wireless unit, so there's not a whole lot of cable I have to cram into the extension.

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Felt IA Calpac mods on Shapeways:
800ml Specialized Fuelselage (XS/S)
1000ml Specialized Fuelselage (M/L/XL)
DIY cover

I had the old one installed in the BB and it worked fine. I then bought the new one and installed it in place of the old one and it still works fine. My Garmin 820 head unit picks it up no problem every time.

Considering the two major upgrades to most bikes are storage and wheels...
Well, this bike has storage handled pretty well, with the new front bottle and bento.
Where do you stash a flat kit? I taped some stuff (tube, co2, inflator, lever) up under the saddle between the seat post and a rear hanging bottle. It fit all right, but would be a tough time getting anything back in there after a flat repair. I wish the down tube bottle was a little bigger. I may still cut off the top and put most of this stuff in there and maybe just the tube under the seat. Has anyone cut up this bottle yet?

What other upgrades have you done?

So far, I:

• swapped out the S-bends for ski bends and my wrists are happier for it.
• In a drunken splurge, I got a fouriers carbon framed pulley hanger with gold 12/16t pulleys and ceramic bearings. It was $150. I regret nothing.
• gold kmc chain, same circumstances as above.
• Zipp TT computer mount.
• Flo 60/disc with corsa speed

Hello,

I just got mine I am super excited about it. I have a question from a first time tri bike owner: to change the extensions for the ski bend do you have to re do all the gear cable? do you use giant ski extension or are there other compatible options?

thanks,

Alejandro

Hi Alejandro,
Unfortunately, yes. The Di2 TT shifters do not have quick release plugs, so you have to remove the two small allen screws near the switches, then the large lock screw going straight into the bar (this one may be reverse thread...there's an arrow), then take apart the front chin, under the 'stem' (5 allen screws) to reveal the B junction box. You may also need to drop the bar (one vertical silver screw, head to the ground) to get more wiggle room pulling those wires out the cutouts in the basebar.

It took me a few hours, learning as I went. I could probably redo it in 30 minutes. If they simply unplugged from the shifters, it would take 10 minutes.

If you have mechanical cables, same rules apply, but you have to run the cables all the way down to your derailleurs. That will add some significant time to the project, but it is a good skill to know.

While you have the chin off, reinforce those wires that go into the headtube cutout. If the wires are unplugged, put heatshrink around them. If not, tape them with strong (gorilla is my preference) tape. When you steer, they rub and eventually break. This is the biggest design flaw of the bike.

The extensions are standard - 22.2 mm. I got some 3T aluminum extensions. They were about $40. I didn't want carbon in case I wanted to flip them around or redrill the cable exit holes. I'll take a few grams for that piece of mind.

If you have any questions, ask away...and post a picture!

+1

I haven't cut up the down tube bottle yet, but I can't think of any place to store a flat kit. For 70.3 I try to ride as minimal as possible which means I remove the downtube bottle and the seat mounted bottle. I'm just going with the front aero bottle as I can fit enough fluid in there that I need. The only downside is that I'd like to carry a bit of solid nutrition (a bar and a gel) as well as a flat kit. For now, I stashed the flat kit in the bento, but that leaves no room for anything else. Taping a gel and bar to the stem seems so lame. A tube with a 100mm stem is tough to store under the saddle...

Any other ideas?

I was going to say that I use on my Trinity a behind-the-seat double cage mount for a flat kit, but since you're going minimal, that won't work for you.

I cut up the downtube bottle last night. I did a horizontal cut, right about where it starts tapering towards the mouth piece. You can stash 2 tubes, a lever, CO2, inflator (I have the shiny objects one...super small) without it bulging out too much. Since the walls of that bottle are quite thin, any packing in will cause a little deformation. I taped the top back on with some 1" gorilla tape and it looks good to go.

I stashed another CO2 in the tritone 'behind the saddle' bottle mount. There's alittle threaded hole. This way, I have 2 tubes (one set up for the disc (40mm stem) and one for the 60 front (80 mm)) and enough gas to inflate them both. I guess I could change the 80 mm stemmed tube to a 40+40 extension and jam a spare 40 mm extension with the lever. That way I could either flat the same tire twice or one of each before getting into trouble.

For Victoria, that'll give me the big front bottle for drinking and a bottle behind the saddle to fill it back up. Flat kit on the downtube. Gels in the bento.



(Tinypic was being troublesome. If the pics above don't load, I'll try again later.)



...and BTW, when I tested in the tunnel, I was faster with the downtube bottle than without it.

Hey, I'll see you in Victoria! I'll be the other guy with a Trinity!

You've got a great setup there. Probably the best setup possible on this bike with the included storage. Using front bottle for liquid, bento for food, and downtube for flat kit is a smart way to go. If I wasn't so cheap I'd cut up the bottle right now and my problems would be solved!

Very interesting that wind tunnel showed you faster with the bottle.

Have you seen a source to rebuy the downtube bottle?

I'm totally happy with how the cut up one turned out, but I may like a spare in case I change it up in the future. That's a great sized bottle for a diluted gel mix.

Yeah, see ya in Vic! These bikes are certainly more rare, but I'm sure there will be at least 5-10 of em out there.

Giant doesn't even list the bottle on their site as far as I can tell. I'm sure I could track one down by calling the Giant rep. But I found this sketchy option through the ol' google machine. I'm sure the bottle would be about $25-30 Cad which isn't as bad as I thought it'd be.

http://www.giantbikespares.com/...oduct_detail/3-43135

Just got this bike last week and raced it at Eagleman. Love it.

I got the fluoro orange Ultegra Di2 model. I think it looks damn hot.

- First time I own a bike with Di2. Wow, it is sweet.
- For a superbike (and in general really), it is super simple to work on. I don't know what all the fuss is about that I've read various places. I can't imagine it being easier to adjust. The pad height, width, extension position, saddle etc, all really easy to modify.
- The integrated water bottle, also no issues. Very nicely designed.
- The bento box is nice, but made only for gels or bars. I use a First Endurance squeezie bottle, and it ejected early on in the race, as it doesn't fit well in there (kinda screwed up my race!). The problem with this bento box is that it has a base with sidewalls, which makes the actual usable space narrower. I will have to find an alternative to carrying that little bottle. But I can't knock the bike for this, as it was clearly designed for the 90% of use cases, which would be gels/bars.
- I flew with the bike back home. Packed it in my EVOC bag. Took about 45min being very careful since it was the first time I had ever taken it apart. Could probably do it in 30min or less next time. Still, I'd say it was not any more difficult than my old P2. It just has more bolts and some Di2 cables that need to be unplugged.
- Brakes feel really solid. Also simple enough to adjust. There is a kind of barrel adjuster built in, so it is possible to adjust the brakes without having to deal with the cable.
- Rear brake is a bit of a pain to get to, since it is mounted under the BB and has a cover. But this is true of all superbikes.
- Looks like the wheels that came with it are the same width as my race wheels, so luckily don't have to make changes. Changing pads is annoying on any bike, so can't knock this bike for that.
- Flat kit: I have always stuffed a tube, lever and C02 with inflator under the saddle.
- Overall, I am super impressed with this bike. Fit, finish, design is top notch. Just need to dial in my fit and position now. I'm really happy.

EDIT
What I don't like:
- The S-Bend extensions. My hands really want ski bend or similar. Other options should be available - Giant should at least give shops an inventory of a few options and give customers the choice for initial build.
- The arm pads/cups. I will be replacing these too. For one, the pads themselves are larger than the cups, and they are attached with tape, meaning after adjusting a couple of times, the stickiness will wear off. I want a velcro attachment system. And cups that hug my arms/elbows more.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

Looks awesome! Glad you like it. I have the same model and I love it so far.

I'm not sure how you think it's easy to work on though. I'm a bike mechanic and I've built a few of these now, and for my bike I plan to get the Scicon bag, which costs more than most, for the sole reason that I won't have to touch that front end!

Just remove the bottle, unscrew all the bolts, remove the plates and the underside of the stem, flip bar over, done! Just as easy putting it back together.

EDIT
I'm no mechanic and I'm always afraid to start touching things like the drivetrain, but this was pretty simple. I know the initial build is probably a real pain, but after that, I'd say it's pretty easy to live with. If you organize the cable jumble in the front, it becomes less scary. I like how basic the front end really is: just a couple of plates that bolt on to cover the cables.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

Has anyone switched out the extensions and armpads/cups??

I really want ski-bend or similar, as well more supportive cups. Not sure what to get.
For extensions, I'm looking at Profile Design T4, Zipp Evo, 51 Speedshop (not yet available to public).

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

I just switched to the profile design T1+ aluminum. They allowed me to get more reach and a higher hand position. Feels so much better. I just posted a video for fit advice under the thread titled "I think this is a good aero fit...tell me if I'm wrong!" if you want to get a idea of what they look like with the di2. I could also send you some more detailed pics if you'd like.

Nice, looks good. The T1s look like a good option too.

I have a similar setup to you - Giro Selector, Small frame.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

I never used the stock extensions but put on Zipp Evo 70's and really like them. I might also try the 110's just to compare and also the Zipp Alimina pads and cups.

My pads are Velcro'd on though but just overall heavy and uncomfortable. I like oval shaped pads moreso than rectangular.

Are you using the T1 cups and pads too?

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

I only ordered the T1 extensions, so I am still using the stock cups/pads. I've gotten used to them, but admit they're not great. I'd be open to suggestions on new cups as well if anyone has tried different ones.

It bothers me that the stock pads don't use a velcro attachment. Tape?! Better not make any adjustments.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

I switched out the bar altogether, with a Deda Elementi Kronos Due. So much more comfortable than the stock Giant bar.

Did that fit in the stem? I thought it could only fit the Giant one. But I guess if the dimensions are the same...?

Also, pics!

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

Post up a pic!

What race wheels and tires would you put on this bike?

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/trinity-advanced-pro-2-2016


Thanks,

It can handle wide rims, so don't let that stop you.
The rear brake is a little tricky to access, so I'd suggest matching your training/racing rims (both width and pad material) so you don't have to mess with them every time you switch.

I put Flo 60/disc on mine. I'd also consider the Hed Jet+. Anything else tips the cost/performance balance out of my range. Tri spokes look cool.

My training wheels are the stock wheels. Are you suggesting Carbon Alloy wheels?

Unless you don't mind messing with the brakes every time, I'd recommend alloy wheels with the same time thickness.

Going in for my bike fit on my new Trinity Advanced 2, finally. I have been out of the country.

My question is what upgrades I should throw down for immediately. I have about $1500 to spend on extras and they are giving me 10% on extras.

Helmet, wheels, tires, tubes, gels?

Know what you need and shop around first. 10% isn't a huge discount and you could likely get that stuff even cheaper somewhere else.

Good luck on the fit!

The best wheels seem to be consumer direct or used. I have a Giro Trinity helmet that will do the trick for now. I was thinking about going for the power meter as I have been training with virtual power on trainerroad. I feel like the Giant Trinity comes pretty well stocked already and am thinking about just getting that garmin power pedals to go with my watch and other garmin gear.

If you're going to get a pedal based power meter, I'd go with either the Powertap P1's or wait for the Favero's Assioma. Both are easier to switch between bikes and don't need a torque wrench.

I have the Favero BePro's and they have been great although the installation process is too cumbersome for switching them between my road and tri bikes. Plus I find the accuracy isn't very good if I install them slightly clocked at all.

Just got a Pro 2 and having put it together today I have a few questions:

- Plenty of talk about transport but the discussion so far has been limited to bike bags - anyone any experience with hard cases with this bike? The extensions are easy enough to disassemble but would like to understand if I will really need to take the front end completely apart every time I have to fly with it.
- Anyone cut the seat post? Post in as far as it will go but I still need another 1 cm down...



thanks
j

If the post is all the way in, are you sure that it is the correct size?

Sizing guide said 'M' based on height (177cm) but I felt like reach on the 'S' was right. LBS suggested that other customers had similar experiences in sizing down. BTW the sizing guide of 'S' does cover my height as well - I dont understand how anyone shorter than me could ride an 'S' with the seat post uncut.

ta
j

Just bought this Trinity off eBay. Ultegra Di2. Swapped out the Ultegra rings for Rotor 53/39 Q rings and a sweet kmc gold chain. About to throw some speed play pedals on, supacaz bar tape and swap out the Down tube bottle back to the stock one. Any suggestions on new arm pads?

Looks great!!

I bought the CeeGee pads for the TriRig Alpha and stuck them on the stock Giant arm cups. Since they are both just large square/rectangle shape, it fit well. Although the CeeGee pads are larger and overlap the Giant arm cups.

Eventually, I purchased the cups and pads for the 3T Vola. I did have to dremmel out the holes on the arm cups to align with the Giant spacing, but I much prefer these arm rests. Great adjustability, fairly cheep, and have a very nice outside curve to keep the forearms/elbows locked in tightly.

---

Alex Arman

Strava

Answering my own question re transport. Fits nicely in my canyon standard bike box - but yes the front end needs dissaembly. Now that I have done it a few times I realise it isnt too much effort - just more than my road bike ;-)

One other question (after a very hilly ride yesterday) - has anyone inverted the basebar? Or, rather: is it difficult/can it be done without having to redo the brake cabling? Not really sure how the bar end brake levers work....

thanks
j

I am 178cm and went with the Small. Most of the measurements aligned with my fit and geometry of my previous bike, vs the M where only some of the critical points lined up. Still, I was finding myself in between sizes.

I went to my local Giant shop where they had a Medium, and just holding it before hopping on, I could feel it was way too much bike. Small was perfect.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

Staer,

1. Did you need the seat post cut (or any spacers put in?) As far as I have read, the post needs the botttom of the seat tube for support.... (or you were the goldilocks case - just right?)
2. What about the base bar height? Do you have it in the 'lower' or 'upper' position? If 'lower', any climbing experience while not in aero? (For anyone who might not know - from the manual: "By inverting the handlebar, you can choose either the low position or the high position. The height difference between the two is 40mm."
   
3. How many spacers (40mm maximum) have you got on for the extensions?

Not trying to use your numbers - just interested in other's experiences on this bike.

rgds
j

The seat post did not need to be cut. It is adjustable, so not sure why you would need to cut it?

I am using the low position of the bar. Have not tried to flip it.

I have one spacer under the extensions, the largest one (not sure how many mm that is). Extensions are also as far forward as possible. Pads can go inwards a bit still, which I may try out to get narrower. Pretty low position but still comfortable and powerful.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

I want to switch the extensions to ski bend too. Looks like the 2018 models come standard with a ski bend (Giant has been listening to it's customers) so I should be able to order a set through my shop.

I am having difficulty placing my Garmin though. My extensions are as narrow as possible and turned inwards making them even narrower, and this conflicts with the Zipp/Sram Garmin mount I have. Gets in the way of a relaxed hand position on the tips.

They need to make a stem mount and/or a mount that can be attached to the front water bottle. You would still be able to see it clearly in front of you, but it wouldn't get in the way of the bars.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

You will have to recable the brakes. First, the brake cables would get twisted up as your flip the bar 180 degrees. Also, the right brake would now be on the left, so your brakes would be reversed.

I will say, the cabling of this bike takes a bit of patience.

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Alex Arman

Strava

If you are handy with 3D modeling, you design a custom mount and have it printed. Even if not, it is not too too hard.

The software to model is free (fusion 360 is free for a year for hobbyists) and printing it out would just cost you shipping...just send me the file!

I'd imagine the easiest would be zip tie mounting a crossbar that would nestle perfectly between your bars. You would then glue a garmin mount to that. A little fancier would include a garmin mount in the print. Fanciest would wrap around the bars and screw clamp.

Edit: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:292539 That is a pretty easy piece to modify to match whatever your bar spacing needs to be.

I did change the extensions for the zipp vuka evo 110. However, I had do do all the gear cabling which was't fun but totally worth it in my opinion.

Here is a picture from last weekend, my first race with it where you can see the new extensions. Super comfortable and super fast (for my standards) ;)

What size wrench is needed to adjust the saddle? For the nut that is directly underneath the saddle. Thanks

Nice. Extensions look good. Still nice and aero but probably a lot more comfy as well.

On my Trinity, it has that knob with holes in it, I've just been putting the long end of a 4mm Allen into it and rotating the knob left or right to adjust saddle position.

Same. It would be tricky to get a wrench in there. The saddle does not need crazy torque to stay locked in.

Ok ill look mine over. Must have overlooked it. Based off a quick glance it seemed the nut underneath the seat was how you adjusted it. Thanks

It is. But it has holes on the sides, so you can just slot an allen key in there and turn it.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

Any recommendations on what bike bag to use to transport a trinity? Ill be flying for the first time with mine

Some on here are using a regular road travel bag, but I highly recommend the Scicon tri bags as they allow you to leave the front end as is during travel. The Trinity front end is not fun to take apart so I prefer this. Their 3.0 lineup is definitely pricey, but in Canada the 2.0 tri bag is on sale right now for a price that is less than many regular bags out there.

What wheel set and tire are you using on your GTA?

I'm running either a pair of Zipp 404's or a 404/super-9 combo depending on conditions. All with 25mm GP4000II tyres. There are probably faster tyres out there but I find them really durable and UK roads aren't the best.

this thread doesnt have nearly enough photos.

not mine:

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Want: 58cm Cervelo Soloist. PM me if you have one to sell

Vintage Cervelo: A Resource

Will the 2016 trinity advanced pro 2 accommodate a wheel larger than 25mm? Looking at the new releases from Zipp, it appears they are looking to move to 28mm.

I would guess: yes.
The front fork is crazy wide and the rear stays have quite a bit of clearance as well. The only issue may be the brakes not opening far enough, but you can find slim brakes to allow extra room.

Thanks! I will confirm with the local shop.

Thought this would be a good place for my first post. I just started doing Tri's this year and after 4 sprints on a entry level road bike I thought it was time for an entry level tri bike. I've done one sprint on it and plan on one more before the end of the year. So far I love it! I plan on upgrading the wheels sometime next year.

Your bike looks great. It's definitely a good place to start. Still has a solid 105 11s drivetrain and a good looking frame and paint job. For an entry level bike this is a great option, especially considering the pricepoint. I think the whole non-integrated headset will actually be good for you as it's a very user friendly bike. Have fun!

Looking for some advice on dropping the aerobar height. Are we supposed to move the spacers we are removing from the top, so that we can lower the cockpit, down below the handlebars to accommodate the longer bolt? I can post pictures of what I mean if this isn't clear.

Thanks!

The bike came with a bag of hardware, including smaller bolts. You simply remove spacers and reinstall with the right length bolt.

Fantastic....when they gave me the bike...they never gave me the extra parts.

Bummer, well, just go to the hardware store. I'm sure they're not crazy and reverse thread or some nonsense.

this seems to be a common and recurring theme with local bike shops lately.... keep the OEM parts so that you HAVE to go back to the shop for adjustments.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Hello, I'm one happy owner of an Advance Pro 1 2017, so it's orange.

I usually do all my week training on an indoor trainer and rely heavy on watts. I read the manual but haven't found what tipe of bottom bracket does it use so I can upgrade it to a Quarq set up?

Thank you in Advance!

The bottom bracket is pressfit. So BB86 for Shimano, or Pressfit GXP for SRAM cranks.

You probably want the Pressfit GXP for SRAM if you are getting a Quarq. But just let us know which Quarq you are looking at, and I can confirm the correct bottom bracket you need.

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Alex Arman

Strava

Thank you my friend!

I'm looking at the Quarq Dzero Carbon, I got the arm lenght 172.5, but have no idea what's the difference between hidden vs non hidden. I see you are recommending the spindle. The whole bike is Shimano Ultegra, I've read that you can use Sram parts seemless but I'm not 100% sure.

Yes, you'll want to get the GXP spindle of that Quarq. Then, you'll need to replace the current bottom bracket on your Giant with a Pressfit GXP SRAM bottom bracket.

The hidden vs non-hidden refers to the 5 chainring bolts on the Quarq. Non-hidden has all 5 bolt holes visible from the outside, while hidden rotates these 5 bolt holes to put 1 of the bolt holes directly behind the crank arm.
I think you'll have more chainring options with the non-hidden version, but both will work very well.





Finally, yes - the SRAM Quarq will work 100% with the Ultegra parts already on your bike.

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Alex Arman

Strava

Amazing! Thank you.

For now I'm sharing my bike as it is, it has the other aerobars from giant and the Keo Blade Carbon pedals.

Did the evo 70s work with the stock Giant stem? Can you send a pic?

It was only the extensions I swapped out, I am still using the stock base bar.

Im trying to figure out how if any more comfortable cups will work with this set up. I'd like to find a way to widen the position of the cups as well. Any advice?

I have very narrow arm pads and was able to make the Zipp Alumina cups and pads work but had to dremmel them out a bit since the bolt spacing was different, for a wider position they make not work since it might put them at an odd angle and rotated upwards. The stock ones can go pretty wide can't they? I'm not sure which others would fit to be honest.

I'm currently trying to find a more comfortable cups as well. The bolt spacing required is 15/30 mm (maybe 15/31). If I remember correctly, I measured the Giant cups as 88 mm wide. So you'll need to look for something that's wider or has holes more inboard and closer to the edge of the cup.

I know the Profile Design F35i's won't work (plastic). There's another thread that says the alum ones should fit. It also looks like Profile Design's F40 or F40TT's should work. All those pads are >100 mm wide.

And the PD ones have the same bolt spacing as the Trinity or will I have to Dremel them? Thanks for the help.

The F40's/F40TT's have slots. The other thread showed the F35a's as having a 15.3mm spacing, but I couldn't find that drawing on PD's website.

Thanks for the help. Which thread was that?

Thread is here

Does anyone know if the PD F35's are the widest arm pads that will fit? I could use the arm pads themselves to be spaced out a little wider from the aero bars to get a little more comfortable.

The F40 (to be renamed Boom) is basically a pad with the extender built in. Hence the alloy construction.


If you place these in the widest setting (the top set of holes with the way the image is oriented) the outer edge of the pads will be at 291mm, vs 275mm for the stock pads. You get a lot more granularity for reach and width adjustment too.

Can't comment on build issues - I pay smarter people than me to build my bikes.

Travel - I use the Scicon Tri Specific bag and can have the bike packed in under 5 mins; only requires taking the wheels off.

Puncture kit - I used a plastic cylinder tool kit thingy and place it either in my jersey pocket on longer rides or rear bottle cage (mounted behind seat) on shorter rides. For races I tape CafeLatex to top tube.

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Mark Pomery
Certified Triathlon Coach (Triathlon Australia)
http://www.swimcyclerunonline.com

Hello, I do have the chance to get a 2014 Trinity Advanced SL in size L. Now I'm struggling a bit if this is the right size or not. I'm 183cm toll and I have heard that the frames are quite large. I went to a Giant dealer and they told me that the 2014-2015 frames are even bigger that the current and he said an M size would fit best. I would like to ask if these facts are true and I may not take the L size of this nice bike.

Of course there are many more factors than height to know for sure, I'd bet the medium is correct. I have the current gen, am right about your height, and ride a medium.

Can you test ride it first?

Yes I could do a test ride but it's not that close and the question is, is it worse it when the size is an L. I checked the giant manual and the L starts at around 1,88m. If this will never fit well I'm thinking to not try it at all. Thanks for the comments.

Sounds big to me... I'm 178 cm and ride a small in the current version

I have an Advanced Pro 2 from 2016 that I bought from another STer in the classified section. So far I've loved the bike for the 6 months I've had it, however this morning when I tried to do a short trainer session I noticed a weird sound. After inspection I found that the plastic cover that goes over the rear break had become deformed, and it's rubbing against the small ring in the crankset.

I removed the crankset and took some pictures:






Has this happened to anybody? How did you fix it?

Have you tried popping off that cover and reinstalling?
If you’re not careful, you may miss a screw which sets that piece further out.

Hi

1st post as i've only just found this forum :) . Before Christmas I picked up my Trinity "TT Edition" on eBay. She's got a few sexy parts and was priced well.

Searching the internet i've really struggled to find information on the bike so I was glad when a google search turned up this thread.

I'm traditionally a short distance triathlete. So far i've done 3 duathlons on this bike and i'm impressed. It's my 1st proper TT bike.

The reason for my post is a question. I've entered a 70.3 in France this year and I want to add extra hydration / storage onto the bike. I'm struggling for information on if I can fit the Tri spec bike bento box and front hydrayion box. Does anybody know? If not what would be the best front mounted drinks system to use?

Oh, 2nd question. I have the frame number, if there anywhere I can look this up to see what year the bike is?

Many thanks

Dan

Are there any bosses on the top tube? The Benito screws in with 2 screws.

I am not sure about the difference between the two models, but the front bottle bolts up as well. You may need a few different pieces to get that to bolt up as well.

Could you post pics of the front end? I could composer it to mine and let you know.

Since it the black paint, I'd assume it's either 2016 or 2017.

Looks great!

If it helps, we make both a bolt-mounted bento and a strap-mounted bento (with advanced low profile straps) that fits perfectly on the Giant, the Speedpack 483D and Speedpack 483. More info in the signature below ...

Greg @ dsw

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Hi, yes pictures attached.

I've got the front end apart as i'm servicing the brakes and going to replace the cable running to the rear.

Looks like the bento might fit but I I fear I may need a new stem (hopefully not too expensive) and forks (probably very expensive) :( . All of that would make the job pointless and i'll look for an alternative solution.

This the latest bento? http://www.giantbikespares.com/...oduct_detail/3-42956

Thank you. I'm pleased with how she looks, that's the main thing ;)

Dan

Hi Greg.

Thanks for the link.

Do you ship internationally? (i'm in the UK) How does your bolt mounted box compare to the stock one from Giant?

Many Thanks

Dan

Hey Dan,
That all looks exactly the same as the TT version.
Of course, your fork is different, but everything bolts up to that nose piece, so the fork does not matter.

And yes...that is the latest version of the bento. The previous one was utter crap. If you can also source the new front bottle, then the bento will fit it perfectly, better than the dsw. If you are unable to get the front bottle and use some nonspecific bottle up the, the dsw would work great. (While the new, split-top giant bento is better, the zippered dsw is better yet.)

The bottle here: http://www.giantbikespares.com/...oduct_detail/3-43132 looks like the old version, but hard to tell in that tiny pic.
The old one has a smooth bottom.
The new one has a notch on the bottom and an additional piece that slides onto that notch.

I can get pics of all this if it helps.

If the bolts holding the brake cover on are too tight it causes the cover to flare out. Try backing the bolt out a bit.

Thank you.

Looks the same as the Tri version?

Is this the new box? http://www.giantbikespares.com/...oduct_detail/3-42757

See the notes, it says will not fit the TT. I wonder if there's a slightly different spacing on the bolts. I'm wondering if that's the case if an adaptor could be fabricated.

Close up pics of your front end would be nice :) . As I said above info is very sparse on these bikes.

Check this pro one out. smooth top tube so no box at all and only a 2 piece "nose" section under the stem. Is that down to a smaller frame size (mine's a large) http://www.cyclingnews.com/...llery/#disqus_thread

Oh and thank you for aging mine. No online resources available to accurately date it or was the 16 and 17 identical?

Thanks

Dan

Yes, that is the right bottle!
Without actually trying it out, no way to know what the reasoning is why it wouldn't work on your TT frame. I'll go out there and shoot a bunch of pics shortly.

Thank you

That’s very kind.

Here is a quick collection of the front end: https://photos.app.goo.gl/kzVsJEfPWCvuq7z43

Let me know if you could use anything else!

Thank you. That helps. I think / fear I may need a new stem. Forks looks like they are in a similar place. I wonder if the bars are the same?

Is your frame a medium? I'm wondering why I have 3 spacers on the nose and you only have 2.

Thanks

Dan

Hi Dan,
Yes, you bet, we ship internationally (including to the UK) all of the time. To make a comparison, do you have any info or images of the stock bento from Giant? Our strap mounted and bolt mounted packs are a different design from the hard sided packs from other manufacturers, but we have many photos of our range on our fb page and instagram (see links in signature). But if you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to message or post again.
thanks,
Greg @ dsw

---

Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
--

Thank you. The cost of the official one that's "good" is very cheap so I might buy that. Unfortunately I know nobody else with a Trinity. Before I found this forum you'd think the bike never existed!

Re: hydration. I'm going to buy one (front bottle) and see what happens. Unfortunately the mounts are not listed so my supplier needs to goto Giant directly and ask. I need some bolts too that the previous ham fisted bike owner seems to have butchered!

I'll update this thread for future info if I can get the bits and make them fit. It might be useful for other TT owners.

Cheers

Dan

Hey guys I've recently bought the trinity advanced pro 2 2017 and am having trouble simply disconnecting the front hydration box to give it a good clean from the old left over sticky sports drink left inside on a previous ride. I can see there's an arrow which indicates putting pressure down with your fingers to give it a bit of a good shove but i feel like I'm not doing it right, feels like any more pressure and its just gonna snap! Any advice welcome! cheers.

Is it the new style bottle that has the slide out bit on the bottle of the bottle near the tire?

If so, it is a super snug fit. I pry it up from the back with a flat head screwdriver. You can wrap it in a little tape so it won't scratch.

So if I have a regular Trinity Advanced, not the Pro...what would have to be done to install the stock front mounted hydration bottle on the Pro?

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Washed up footy player turned Triathlete.

It would be hard to guess without having both on hand to tinker.

Where are you located? Perhaps someone is close enough to help test.

Just to reiterate, you want to install a front hydration bottle that comes on the Pro version onto your Trinity (non-pro) version?

In that case, I'd abort because the mounting bracket is built specifically for the AeroDrive Tri bar and stem found on the Pro. The non-Pro version uses a significantly different fork and stem which will render the bracket useless. My recommendation would be to use one of the very capable and aero models from Profile Design or similar.

I'm currently using the Profile Design FC35. I just wanted to know if it was possible without too much sweat even knowing the differences in Forks.

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Washed up footy player turned Triathlete.

If its the Gen2 front hydration bottle you need to lift the triangular plastic piece on the top back part of the bottle that secures it to the stem. The arrows indicating downward pressure is how you install it. I often have to use a screwdriver to help if its been left in a sticky mess.

I'm sure there's a way to make it work with some creative thinking, but I think that FC35 option probably fits more clean than the Pro bottle ever would on your bike. I'd stick with that option as it's a really good one!

I doubt you'll get the official bottle on it, the stem is completely different.

those Giant bottles just dont comfortable enough. Hard to take off, hard to wash properly, the sraw is too low.
I tried two of them, and switch to Xlab torpedo. Much better, but not looks so cool )))

I’m considering the FC35 unless someone can convince me there’s a better alternative?

Hi now a trinity advanced pro owner

looking at how i now ship to races ,spent a bit of time searching youtube & forums

i am used to using bike bag a simple bike bag i had for some time or old fashioned cardboard bike boxes etc

do not want to spend £000,s on a box/bag for 2 ish races overseas a year

any in situ photos of bars removed etc would help

How many have purchased a new saddle?

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Washed up footy player turned Triathlete.

Just did...dash. haven't received it yet.

Does the new bento box fit the 2016 Trinity? (Sorry I missed this if it's already been mentioned).

I don't like the flip-tip one on my 2016, it gets snagged on my leg sometimes and flaps open, annoying.

Yes, it fits.
You can actually go to your dealer and they will order it for you. Many of us have done this and it was no charge.

The new bento is waaaay better. You will be happy with it. The original one was pretty much worthless.

Also, the new front bottle is improved as well - bigger volume, better attachment clamps. (When I took this bike for a test ride, the front bottle launched, so I always used gorilla tape on the side to keep it secure. The new bottle is overbuilt and cannot launch. It actually takes some effort to remove after a ride - great.)

Sweet, thank you.

Have the bike and love it, but that new bottle CAN launch. On the large size frame, running conti Gp 4000 25mm tires, the rubber will grip the underside of the bottle and shoot it like a torpedo when braking. Learned that hard way. 4 Times. Changed tire size and no issues since. I do use some Velcro for peace of mind however.

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Human Person

I'm confused.
The new bottle is three pieces:

• triangle piece that slides straight down, sits between the bottle and the bento
• bottle itself
• bottom piece that slides in near the tire...looks kinda like a banana peel

When you say:

...does that mean that only that bottom slider piece shoots out or do you have a different bottle design?

Even without that bottom piece, the top triangle piece seems like it is more than enough to keep the bottle on the bike.

I picked up the non-Pro model a couple of weeks ago and ordered the Bento box off the internet. Its a pretty straight forward installation, but the box included these two adhesive strips and for the life of me, I cannot figure out where they're supposed to go. Does anyone here have any insight?

The bottom triangle piece always went. The bottle went on a couple of occasions.

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Human Person

Do you have a pic of the bento installed? I have the non-pro model like yours and wondered if it fit.

Edit: Sorry forgot to quote Sikedsyko...this question is for him.

I'd guess that the circle with the slit goes around the cable inlet and the square piece maybe near the rear?

Just bolt it up and see how snug it is. If any bits lift, throw some sticker under it.

Same pieces came with it when the store gave me one, didn't use them.

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Washed up footy player turned Triathlete.

Try Giant Bike Spares.

They are UK based so not sure about shipping worldwide but they are pretty good at sourcing parts.

http://www.giantbikespares.com/...oduct_detail/3-42956

Yeah here's the pictures. I didn't do anything with the adhesive strips as its on there very securely. It doesn't look quite as nice as the Pro model with the aero headtube/stem, but its a pretty solid option for some storage.

Looks pretty nice to me. Thanks for sharing.

What's funny is for the same price, the Avow has better wheels now...ew!!! Can't we all be the same!?!

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Washed up footy player turned Triathlete.

what size bolt is under the seat? I HATE that system.

15mm.

With a dash saddle, you can actually get a socket and torque wrench on it. With the stock tritone, it is terrible!

Anyone move their saddle position to the front hole on the top of the post? I don't see how that works, the hole is smaller than the clamp bolt it appears.

It looks like I can use the middle post hole, but rear saddle rail clamp baseplate hole, but it'll cantilever off the front of the top of the post, which looks sketchy (like this):

https://www.tri247.com/...george-4-700x394.jpg

Is that the only option to get the seat position farthest forward on a short railed TT saddle?

I actually just moved mine to the front hole a few days ago. The bolt fit into the front hole just fine. It does hang off the front just like the pic you posted, but I think it is ok. If you look at Sam Appleton’s setup in the Giant bike section of Slowtwitch his looks the same way.

I guess this is a two part question:

1. Are the fouriers carbon framed pulleys worthwhile, still available, and comparable with the non di2 version (GTA Pro 2 2016).
2. Is the Garmin mount from thingiverse something that I would have to have 3d printed? If so, where would you suggest? Also, is this supposed to be a mount that goes with the Garmin 920xt twist off watch to mount while not on the swim and run?




Did you ever find a solution to this issue. I am asking because I have to move significantly out of position to check the watch on my wrist and I get obsessive about it.


Knowing that you are a bike shop owner and have built a few of these since they have come out. What upgrades are you seeing as beneficial?




Lastly, it has been almost year and I told myself that I would upgrade the bike until I have made significant progress on holding form and in my FTP. I think the time has come for me to make those upgrades on the bike. I have increased my FTP 40% and am able to hold aero long enough. I already had the race suit, aero helmet, and power meters upgraded on my bike. Its time for me to get those marginal gains via race wheels, ceramic bearings, etc. ANYTHING that you can suggest is appreciated.

PS: I am getting everything dialed in again with an extensive bike fit...I hope that will be the last one (is there ever really a last one?)

I did when I got fitted. It has changed my life!

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Washed up footy player turned Triathlete.

That's good to hear, I guess I was a little concerned seeing how close to the front of the post that front hole is...but if people are doing it with no problems, I guess it's okay. :)

Sorry Ladies /Gents

couple question I still not resolved


I am struggling to find a aero bottle system for front end on my 2017 advanced pro ,between centres is approach 140mm

I struggling to find a behind the seat bottle holder ,reason for this my seat is as far forward as can go therefore my old bottle holder interferes with seat post.

I have the big black aero bottle that came with bike but do not like this due to size on windy bike course it can make handling lighter

any thoughts

Is yours a Pro are a regular...because the PRO comes with the integrated system. I have a Trinity Advanced and use an Profile Design FC35, it's great. I have two Xlab bottle cages on the rail hydration mount BTS.

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Washed up footy player turned Triathlete.

What about the original front bottle? It was much smaller than the current revision. You need to tape it down or risk bouncing it, but I bet it is less wind grabby.

its a trinity pro advanced 1

am struggling with width finding aero bottle as I said the bars seem wide

Why don't you use the one that comes with the bike?

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

as i mentioned previous its too big intrusive and not the best design on a windy course

Do you have the new 3-piece bottle or the old single piece? The new one is quite a bit bigger. Maybe the old one would suit you.

yeah the new big thing ,its like a sail ;-)

I think you're just tripping.

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Washed up footy player turned Triathlete.

A sail which makes you go faster.
I was out a few weeks ago on the local sea front promenade,with a 90 and disc on with a true 15mph crosswind and it never felt anything other than completely rock solid, absolutely zero sideways movement,in fact the bike as a whole is so well behaved in nasty winds (I live on the coast,we always have wind) that it almost feels docile in comparison to my old p2 which was frequently a bit sketchy in crosswinds.

Then, try to get the old one if you want something that is well integrated but smaller. Plus, it'll likely be dirt cheap since everyone who started with it was so happy to ditch it for the free new one.

Thanks for the link. Have you purchased from Aliexpress before? If so, how was your experience.

Also, which model number would I want to get? I have the 2016 GTA Pro 2 and I know that it runs an 11-25 instead of the 11-28 that Giant switched to in 2017. I have no idea if this makes a difference.

I have purchased plenty of stuff from Ali...cycling kits, flags, bike lights, wheel bags, cable ends, heat shrink grip tape, these pulley sets and a bunch more. Only one recent purchase turned out to be a true dud. A couple long sleeve skin suits were a little big, but I was able to pass them on to buddies which fit. So, do not expect much (if any) post sale support, but the products are all genuinely decent. You can expect stuff almost as good at a fraction of the price. Shipping will take between 1-3 weeks.

There is a valid concern that your CC details may get snagged, sold and abused. If that concerns you, just load $ onto a prepaid card. Boom, worry no more!

The pulley set you get doesn't really care what your cassette is. I have two, one on the trinity and another on my roadie. The trinity had the short cage 6870 and with the 15/15 set, it clears everything from a 21 to 28T cassette. The roadie has a 12/16T pulley set and I run a 32 on there. At most, swapping cassettes will take a few turns on the B-screw...per usual.
You just might need a longer chain. I size my chains long, so I just popped them on and was good to go. Install is just slightly tricky. There is a ring spring that sproings out. Once you find that behind the shelves and clean it up, be careful that it goes in correctly. Be better than me and slowly take the RD apart so you see how everything works. First time took an hour. The second one took maybe 10 minutes. You can find step by step instructions on ceramic speed's site.

Any other Q's, ask!

thanks for help with aero bottle ( AKA SAIL) ,will look at smaller option

Use torpedo 200, very comfortable. will attach some pictures later
The spec is to 150mm

https://www.xlab-usa.com/torpedo-versa-200.html

thanks Evgen

would really appreciate that

Anyone know of a way to angle the aero extensions upward slightly, or is this not possible with the stock clamps? I have the Zipp Vuka Evo 110's.

That would be ideal, but I think the problem is impossible with the stock clamps. Got the same vuka evo 110

I think someone angled the bars by putting a small shim under the lowest spacer. There was enough room in the screw tunnel that the screw could sit at that angle. This is fuzzy memory, though, may not be correct.

If so, you would have to lower the rear or raise the front since the extension holes would no longer line up.

Interesting...Seems like maybe the way to do it is make a custom set of angled spacers for the top of the stack with the holes and pins. A little ambitious for me at the moment, but when I get through all the other little tweaks I'm making, might go to a buddy's garage who has "the ultimate set of tools" (referencing Fast Times at Ridgemont High) and see if we can make a set, machining and drilling aluminum....or maybe they don't even need to be aluminum, will experiment perhaps.

With a proper machine shop, you can do whatever you want!

If it were me, I'd find a set of bars that are already bent so that the hand grips are where you want them. Then, I would add shims under the elbow pads to make a comfortable angle.

thanks for that evgen

very helpful and hopefully sort out one for me

That's what I was thinking of doing before; I can do that as-is without different bars, as the 110's bring the hands up well already. Easier to do a shim than to make new spacers, simpler shapes and no locator pins and holes, too. I found some overseas a few months ago, but they wanted an arm and a leg for them. In a lot of situations, I'm more apt to think, "screw it, I'll do it myself." :)

Kind of fun solving problems, then riding the solution. And hopefully not finding out you've royally botched it all up! :D

Just re-config'd the cockpit today, took 20mm out of the spacer stack (back is flexible, can always put 10mm back in if this ends up being too much), narrowed elbow pads by one hole in and moved them forward by one hole, plus angled them inward slightly. Then moved the saddle mount to the front hole on the seatpost perch (it was in the middle position, and pushed max forward on the rails), then backed the saddle rail position back half a centimeter after setting the new mount point, so the net should be approx 1cm forward from the previous position. Overall, slightly narrower, slightly lower, and slightly more forward. Will take a test flight tomorrow or Sunday to see if the farther forward elbow move was enough to give me a little stretch to offset the drop and still allows easy breathing similar to where I was. Will tweak saddle height on the test ride a couple times to dial in hip angle. Been tweaking the bike once a month for the first four months, had it pretty dialed in terms of comfort and decent aero last time, now just getting more aggressive and will try to achieve "reasonable" comfort. Trying to take another minute off my 20K next race (shaved 73 secs last race from previous). Fun stuff!

April 28, 2018 cockpit changes:


Went for a more aggressive/aero cockpit tweak this time, enough babying it. Took 20mm out of the spacer stack, moved elbow pads 10mm inward + 10mm fwd ea side, angled pads inward to follow ulna line, saddle clamp moved to front mounting hole in seatpost netting roughly 15mm more forward saddle position. Rode it a couple laps on Fiesta Island, then raised saddle 3mm to open up hip angle slightly and take a little pressure off quads (which I could feel nearly continually through the pedal stroke before the raise), then rode 3 more laps. Feels good enough to keep for a while. Adjustment to the new config was easy. I've got a flexible back, do a lot of stretching, so no issues there. Interestingly, the narrower arm position lessened tension in the shoulders/upper-mid back, allowing me to lower the head easier than the previous wider elbow pad placement. I wasn't expecting that benefit, nice to feel.

PR'd a few segments with a standard road helmet and kit and no aero wheels. I took it easier than my training ride on Thurs, NP that day was 263, and today NP was 250, yet I avg'd .8mph faster. Interesting... Next, going to get back on the fit rig with the measurements from this new setup, and will tweak fore-aft saddle position and look at power numbers, and also find out if there is anything else that needs attention.


One tweak I forgot to make was slightly rotating the aero extensions inward, will do that this week. I'm lightly interlocking my fingers while on non-turny sections, and I'd like to bring the hands just slightly closer together so this is more easily accomplished. Not sure if it makes any difference, but I'd like to try it.

Really enjoying this Trinity. I'd heard how hard it was to work with for fitting, and I've no doubt that's true. But I'm still having fun and it's getting better all the time. Looking forward to putting in some solid training, and then going after a healthy time cut at the next race. Let's see if the fit work pays off.

Everything is looking good, but I am skeptical that such a change could make sure a radical difference.

You mentioned: 13 fewer Watts and 0.8mph gained. Plugging in arbitrary numbers: 25 vs. 25.8mph, you sped up about 2s/km. (Lower speeds: 20&20.8mph would be about 5seconds/km saved.)

I forget the full 'aero rule of thumb', but a quick search say 10W = 1s/km

...so, is it possible that your tweak saved roughly 33W (20W for the speed increase + 13W for going 13W easier)? Any way you could show some before/after pictures from the same angle? If that is a legit 30W+ aero savings, I'd love to see it!

(Disclosure: my math is often terrible, but I think I got the mph/kmph conversions correct. Don't yell at me if I made a stupid error.)

After I reconfigured the entire cockpit, I thought to myself that I should probably have taken a photo of me on the bike first and afterward, LOL. I’m an idiot.

Being pragmatic, there are several factors which may've affected the outcome, wind direction and how that bolstered speed in certain sections, and other things such as the amount of sleep I had, where I was in the recovery cycle in training during the week, temperature, HR, tire pressure, lots of things. I guess at a high-level just not going slower was an indicator that things are going in the right direction. But I can’t really read into the rest of it too much until I do a controlled test on a fit rig with the power meter, so I can discern what the net effects were on power output and efficiency in the pedal stroke (combined with some aero improvements to net a potential speed gain at lower power). For now, it’s just fun experimentation. :D

I would never question, ridicule, or complain about anybody’s mathematical computations on this forum. That would be suicidal! :-)

P.S. Looks like somebody snapped a pic of me in my new aero position on Sunday's test run!

I have a buddy that is willing to lend me his Reynolds Assault 40's. Any advice on the carbon brake pads I would want to use/where to buy them?

Is it going to be worth the hassle over a 70.3 to switch out the box rims in favor of his wheels?

I can't help you there! I only ride aluminum brake tracks. Would he lend you the pads as well? I believe carbon clinchers all have their preferred pad.

Have you tweaked much of the brake spacing yet? The rear is especially annoying.

Is it worth it? Yes! It'll look cool and be faster. If there is a chance of rain, maybe not. CCs already have worse braking.

I use Swissstop Black Prince Pads on all carbon wheels I have run, they seem to work well, they have an EVO option that are narrower if you have wide rims and struggle for clearance.

http://road.cc/content/news/241315-giro-ditalia-stage-1-tom-dumoulin-takes-win-and-early-lead-jerusalem


The Dutchman takes the win on a trinity!

He looked very solid, sort of made it look easy, even though I'm sure it was not even for him.

Tom's position is something I'm trying to figure out... How does he engage the core and bend his lumbar area like he does, yet still take full deep breaths to generate power efficiently? One of my friends does this on his TT bike also and was explaining to me the other day that you breathe from the lower/rearward area of your lungs while engaging the core. I don't get this at all, no idea how to do it without restricting diaphragm function and limiting breathing volume. Do you have any insight on Tom's position in this area? He's so lean, you an see it clearly.

Anyone have a secret, magic method for tightening a stock Shimano bar end shifter in place in the extension tube?

I didn't build this bike originally, and little by little, I've been going over the entire bike, changed the cockpit fit completely, but kept the stock Shimano SL-BSR1 shifters (shop installed the Vuka 110 extensions for me). Ever since the new extensions were set up, my right/rear shifter body has been loose; I can pull it forward about a half inch. Tried securing the stalk of the shift body assembly inside the extension tube with some teflon tape, but it's not working at all. Looking at the shop diagram found online, it looks like the shifter body securing bolt gets installed/tightened before the shift lever and cable gets installed...so I'm thinking I may be screwed (no pun intended) and may have to take the shift lever off, the cable out and re-install the whole darn thing...is that correct? Or, is there some way to tighten the body fixing bolt without disassembly?

Edit: Decided to take the shifter apart to get to the body fixing bolt. Oddly, if I tighten the bolt, it pushes the shifter out of the tube further, and if I loosen it, it allows it to be pushed back in flush--but it's still loose. Something's amiss. Back to the shop I go.

I have no clue man. When I get all crunched over like that, I can't breathe either.
I'm try out a dash saddle to rotate around more. It gets me to stretch out and a little lower. I can breathe fine, but have a hard time holding it. I will get a few more rides on it and revive my fit video thread.

...I remember taking out the shifter that either one or both were reverse screwed in. This was di2, though.

They fit super snug in both the stock bars and new profile design ski bends.

Good luck at the shop. Hopefully they fix it and tell you what they did.

Does anybody have a guide for the headset? More specifically in what order the bearings and compression rings go onto the steerer tube. I’m thinking when I put my build together I did so incorrectly.

Thanks!

There must be some info perhaps in the fitters section here on ST? Curious about the logic (and physiology) behind that bent lumbar area and core engagement. Seems counter to everything I'm doing now. I'm trying to keep mid-section loose to allow full, easy breathing.

As for saddles, I'm on my third one in four months, lol. Started with Tritone, then ISM PR 2.0, now Spesh Power Arc 143. The Arc saddle felt like a great solution, until I re-config'd my entire cockpit fit to be more aggressive...now the saddle doesn't feel so friendly. Going to dial the nose angle down 1 or 2 degrees and see if that improves things. Funny, I thought I'd be able to ride the saddle farther back than the on the first couple inches of the nose...and I was before I lowered the front end more, but now I'm riding the nose and in an overall more aggro position which feels right in terms of balance throughout. I just need to get a more comfy nose to perch on, which is similarly narrow and lets the legs move without any drag on the thighs or sides of the magic goodie bag. :D

First will dip the nose and see if A) it increases comfort in the nethers, and B) if it increases tension in the arms to keep me in place on the saddle (no bueno).

Does anyone know how deep the box rims are on the 2016 GTA Pro 2? I am measuring them at somewhere between 27-30mm and I had one bike shop tell me 27 and another tell me 30.

I am asking because I want to order and aero jacket cover for the rear wheel as I am not seeing any good used wheel sets on sales under $400. I may just try to buy a 40-60 for the front to go with the aero jacket for the time being.

Hello,

These pictures are of my 2017 Giant Trinity Advanced Pro base bar. I have noticed these scratches/cracks and am wondering if anyone has a view as to if they are simply scratches in the clear coat or a structural crack in the carbon. I would be interested in any thoughts.

Perhaps others have similar "marks" which they have determined to be scratches (perhaps by having them inspected by a carbon expert etc.)

Also, does anyone have a view as to if catastrophic failure is even an issue with this type of carbon bar. Is the construction such that this thing is so bloody strong that there is basically no chance that it will simply snap clean off while riding. Given the way that carbon is woven together it does seem pretty unlikely that it can just crack off without warning, but I want to be safe. I thought i would ask the questions.

Thank you in advance for any input.

First 2 are left side, which i am most concerned with. Last one is the right side.

The sail is a different size depending on frame size. My XL bottle is way bigger than the one that comes on the medium frame. Bet giant would sell you one. My shop offered to get me one.

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Human Person

Does anyone know how deep the box rims are on the 2016 GTA Pro 2? I am measuring them at somewhere between 27-30mm and I had one bike shop tell me 27 and another tell me 30.

I am asking because I want to order and aero jacket cover for the rear wheel as I am not seeing any good used wheel sets on sales under $400. I may just try to buy a 40-60 for the front to go with the aero jacket for the time being.

My shop just told me Giant is back ordered on the hydration system until August (at least for the medium size). I was trying to get a replacement system since I broke the top triangle of mine when it went flying off due to the wheel catching the bottom piece of the system on a bump.

I've noticed those scratches as well on my base bar. Thought they were cracks at first, then realized they were scratches from mechanic not being careful and hurrying. But definitely do what the other response said, flex the bar and listen for creaks or other sounds from that area and see if the scratches change width (hope not!)..

I know my local shop has systems. Call Philadelphia Bikesmiths. Buy a few things and have them ship it along to you.

Looks like scratches, when my base bar cracked and was replaced it looked more fractured with multiple cracks running from the main crack.

Thank you to all who commented.

I put some good weight through the bar this morning and there was no apparent widening or sounds from the bar, which was comforting.

This will be very hard to explain but i'll give it a go. The way the base bar is build, there is actually an inset portion where the spacers bolt through. Therefore, it would appear that the part of the bar that is under tension is not actually on the top of the bar, where that "scratch" is. The part of the base bar that is under tension from the spacer bolts is deeper" into the carbon closer to the middle / core of the bar. This also give me comfort that the marks are more likely not structural, as it now seems unlikely for that particular area to have been affected by over-tightening. Happy to hear other opinions.

At this stage, I think they are scratched in the clear coat, however, I will keep an eye on them and, comparing to my photos, monitor for any change.

Cheers

just wanted to try again and see if anyone might be breaking apart their front end anytime soon. basically just hoping to get some help on the order of the headset, bearings, etc. thanks all!

Why don't you use the manual?

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

In terms of the actual frame is there any differences in the weight/stiffness across the range?

it’s not in the manual that i have unfortunately

Do you have a link for a more detailed manual than this: https://wiki.geant.org/...103449196&api=v2

It is the best i have found, but does not have that info.

That's the one. I guess it isn't that detailed actually...:/

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

Hi Guys,

my first post here as I've started assembly of my new giant trinity advanced pro tt. From the start, I should acknowledge, there was no detailed instruction despite that one that I could find in the Internet.

Can you please advise, if the Di2 battery support set (the one that fits into the seatpost) should come with the frameset or should I somehow get it separetely?

Another question is I can't get the seatpost clamp be perfectly aligned with the frame. There's a small portion of it protruding out of the frame, therefore rubber cover does not fit will. Did some of you deal with this issue? or am I doing something wrong?

How do you like the base bar inverted like that? I think I might like the additional comfort when i'm taking a break off the aero bars while training...

Comfortable just like you’re thinking, for taking it easy in between stints on the aero bars. Also didn’t think about it before, but it also brings the brakes slightly closer, may be faster in an emergency perhaps.

Hmm, sounds tempting. Perhaps i'll also have some ski bends put on at the same time, to really get the front end the way I want it (I think). Cheers

The ski bends are much more comfortable for me than the stock S-bends; wrists are no longer bent awkwardly forward. At this point, after tweaking and evolving the cockpit over the past four months and testing weekly, I'm finally comfortable and don't have any other changes to make. (Except, I might experiment with a softer-nosed saddle at some point, still has to be narrow like the S-Works Power Arc I'm riding now.) Cheers to you as well.

Let me know if you are looking to try the ski-bends. I have a set that I put on and they didn't work out for me. There was not as much extension on them when compared to the s-bends and I was more aero with the stock extensions.

Yeah, that is incorrect. Try completely removing that wedge clamp and unscrewing it so that it is only holding on to the screw with 3-4 threads. Then, insert the seat post with the wedge clamp together and it should slide flush. Finally, tighten that bolt to spec and it will lock in tight. (Don't forget carbon paste on the seat post where it clamps!)

Regarding the di2 battery mount, mine came built up with Di2 and it included the mount. If you bought the frameset, I wouldn't be surprised that it was not included. It is about $10-15. You can get away with some heavy duty double sided tape.

Staer is tearing up the bike right now in Chatty (we are halfway through). I am interested to hear his race report after everything is said and done. Specifically his bike setup for the race, power file, etc.

Thanks for the props...sorry to have let the excitement down in the end!

Back at work, so I'll update this as I can.

Race Report
My day started less than ideal: I was doing a warmup run at 4am and fell into a hole in the sidewalk. It was a water main hole or something, ~2x2ft and ~2ft deep. Was looking out for branches and other stuff around on the ground and completely missed it, since it was dark. Slapped the ground hard, cutting up and bashing my knees, shins and elbows. Scared my girlfriend, waking her up with blood all over! Told myself to just let it go, ice it, eat breakfast and get on with it, it'll be ok.

Also, one of my elbow pads flew off on the drive down, so I picked up a couple beer koozies and fashioned a pad out of that. Let me say, it did not work so well once wet with sweat and water. It was like riding right on the cup itself. With the humidity, the glue melted off the other pad and I lost at about 20k in. Made for a painful and uncomfortable ride.

Swim was solid. My pool swimming is far superior to my open water swimming, and I've struggled to translate it. This was one of my better ones, closer to those front guys than I have been before, 2min down.

Bike was cracking. I've been working a lot on it and it's finally starting to show. I caught Hanson very early (he was 15-20sec ahead out of water) and we worked together. Even at legal distance, there is benefit to this – I find it is more mental than anything, as you can key off someone in front of you and get extra motivation to stay moving strong as you fade. For me, this was turning into my best ever ride and it really came down to a mental shift: I said to myself the day before, "You will crush. Race like you belong. Be aggressive. Everyone else is just an obstacle to the finish. Take no prisoners." We caught almost everyone ahead, including Otstot, Gambles, Potts, and at about halfway were only around 1min down on Laundry and Desroches, and maybe 3ish to Starky. Every guy we passed managed to latch on, so we had a group of around 15 I think. And it was squirrelly, guys surging, braking suddenly, some slotting in. I felt uneasy and didn't like that some would move ahead and then let a gap open up. Hanson was strongest and stayed out front, while I tried to maintain my position 2nd-3rd behind him.

I probably rode a bit too aggressively and with too many big surges. Those gaps could have been closed with smoother riding. Unfortunately, I got a penalty (along with Potts). It definitely got tight and I should have done more to keep the distance, but I thought I did a good job of visibly showing my intention by sitting up/soft pedalling. However, the official had a hard stance on the rules. It's difficult when the group is big and not really working together. From stop to go, the penalty took about 5:40. Decided to ride hard the rest of the way, catching a few guys who passed us while in the box.

I started the run and immediately felt a complete lack of snap and was super tight all over. I was actually moving decently the first couple of miles but it slowly turned into a death march, and the heat eventually got to me.

Overall though, very encouraging day. I'm excited for the next one.

Updated
Bike Setup



2017 Giant Trinity Advanced Pro 1
Drivetrain: Ultegra Di2 52/36 (stock)
Extensions: Zipp Evo 110 Aluminum extensions
Pads: stock, slammed as much as possible
Wheels: Vision Metron 81 / Reynolds Strike SLG with Wheelbuilders disc cover
Saddle: ISM PN1.0 (stock, I like it)
Shoes: Giant Conduit
Helmet: Giro Selector
Flat kit: in the bento
Nutrition: Aerovault nose cone bottle + 1 bottle behind the saddle that I use to refill the front (First Endurance EFS Pro) + XLab Aero TT bottle (First Endurance EFS Liquid Shot)

I switched the extensions to the Giant ski-bends last year, then switched over the winter to the Zipps. I did a Stac Virtual Wind Tunnel test and made changes based on that. The wheels are mismatched, which really bothers me, but I am waiting to order a new disc cover for the Vision wheels, which are also new (for me, purchased lightly used from a Slowtwitcher).

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

I inverted my basebar as well. It's been a great change for me. It really depends on your fit. When I had it pointed down, I felt like I was in the drops of a road bike. Now it feels like I'm on the hoods - which helps when climbing.

Thanks for the review. With everything seemingly going so wrong, outside of a good swim and feeling strong on the bike, you probably have a sub 4 hour race in front of you.

I definitely think so.
Post updated.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

Giving me more confidence to go with an aerojacket when I make the upgrade from box wheels. Do you feel full carbon is that much better than carbon alloy? Whey did you drop the aerovault hydration system?

I wouldn't say full carbon is necessarily better. You do get better braking with aluminum, though I have never had any issues or lack of confidence. It didn't choose the wheels because they are carbon, but because of rim depth and price. The Reynolds Strike SLGs I was running before came with a previous bike and were high quality enough to stick around for a few years.

I use the Aerovault in races. It's annoying to remove regularly because my pads are as close as they can get, which makes getting at the bottle wedge difficult - have to use a knife.

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

Hey Tri Dogg,

I can confirm that catastrophic failure is definitely possible with this bar. 15km into my first ride I was on the bullhorns and I went over a small bump, next minute the right side of the bar cracked and lost all structural integrity. Not what you want on your maiden voyage!

Giant handled it quite quickly and replaced the bar, but they never really did tell me what the issue was (which is a little concerning). Yours look more like scratches from an allen key than a crack, but could be worthwhile getting it checked regardless.


On another note, does anyone have trouble using a torque wrench to tighten the seat post bolt? The head of my torque wrench is too large/bulky and the hex key doesn't fit into the bolt head nicely. I'm worried I will round the head of the bolt out.