Pretty much any Shimano or GXP compatible crank (i.e. 24mm spindle diameter), with their respective bearings. BCD not a factor.

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Carl Matson

Hope this is right place for this......

Over time, I assume due to sugary drinks, the matte paint has become streaky with flat spots that don't wash off. Any suggestions on how to remove these or even it out? I normally use the WD-40 bike cleaning products.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

Here's the word from our paint folks:

Nothing abrasive! Mild soap and a really, really soft brush. Be very careful as rubbing on the matte with too much force will result in making it gloss again

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Carl Matson

I have a 2011 SC 9.8 with the gen 1 draft box that has been rubbing on my back wheel. I had my LBS order a draft box gen 2, but when the mechanic tried installing it, he said it wasn't compatible because the gen 2 has (2) screw slots in the back of the box, similar to the bottle cages on the down tube. Is the Gen 2 not compatible with a 2011 SC 9.8?

Thanks

That is correct, the gen2 (2014+) draftbox is not backwards compatible with the gen1 sc.

Is your gen1 draftbox the one with the wings on the storage section?

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Carl Matson

It looks like the wings are underneath the draft box. The box is sitting on top of another piece that was attached to the seat tube/seatstay. Is there anything that can be done to fix this? He was able to prop it up off the wheel and use some tape on either side of the box connected to the seat tube. Clearance was still pretty tight, but no longer rubbing. But is there any other solution?

Thanks

So it looks like this?

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Carl Matson

Hey Carl, yes, basically. However, after inspecting mine again, I don't have the wing on the top of the seat stay. There is only a wing on the bottom part of the seat stay. Am I missing a piece?

Also, sorry to double up on this, but changing from the stock wheelset to 808s has brought about another issue. The cable to the front derailleur has a tendency to rub the rear wheel now. I'm running 808 FC with Conti GP4000s ii. I put some electrical tape around the cable and pulled it closer to the derailleur which seems to be an easy fix. Do you know if this has been an issue for others, or if there is some other solution?

I've attached a few pictures. Sorry about orientation, when I uploaded the files, it rotated them.

Thanks

Thanks for the pictures.

You're not missing a piece on the draftbox. ..what you have is the original gen1 design. We made a running change to the design in the pic I posted. ..which, among other things, improved the clearance to the rear tire by preventing the box from sliding down the stays. The revised box was considered a warranty item for original owners of the first one.

On the fd cable rub, what tire width are you running? Are you getting rub marks inside the chainstays too?

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Carl Matson

23's. No other rubbing aside from draft box and cable. Unfortunately, I'm the 2nd owner of this SC. Is there a link you could provide to this modified box so I could give to my LBS for them to order one for me?

Part# 420505 from your Trek dealer.

I'm thinking the FD thing may be at least partly due to the different cable path required for newer generation Shimano FDs...the SC was designed with the previous generation clearances in mind.

ETA assuming my eyes aren't failing me and I'm seeing a newer Shimano FD in that one pic?

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Carl Matson

What year is considered newer shimano? You're correct that it's an ultegra shimano, but I can't tell you the exact year it's from. The previous owner swapped out the SRAM components for ultegra. I'm guessing it was 2011, but it could have also been done in 2012.

Also, thanks for the part #!

For Ultegra it started with the 6800 series

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Carl Matson

So for the FD, it's basically an improvise thing if I'm going to be running the newer shimano group set?

Thanks for the info, very helpful!

Hi Carl, should I be worried about a raised cracked area on the reverse of the seat tube of my 2015 Speedconcept 9?
Cheers, Mooks

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It's only impossible if you stop to think about it.

If I had the bike in front of me I'd want to verify that everything has been installed correctly and is functioning properly...but assuming that's all true, yes.

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Carl Matson

Even if there was a picture for me to see, diagnosing something like that over the internet isn't a great idea. First thing to do is have your Trek dealer check it out in person. If it's going to result in some sort of warranty claim or crash replacement claim it's going to have to start with your dealer anyway.

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Carl Matson

 
Hey Carl, I hit a pot hole over the weekend and the top part of the front brake cover popped out from under the aero bar. There's a notch at the top of the cover and it I'm unable to get it correctly in place without taking out some screws. What is the torque limit for the screws with the circles? Also, the screw hole with the arrow, is there a torque limit for this one? I'm not sure if I have to take that screw out, but it would appear that I do. However, there is a long canal and I'm not sure I could even get a hex bit into that canal to apply a specific torque. I bought a fold-up hex wrench that should be small enough and long enough to get to the screw, however, does this need to be properly torqued?

This is a 2011 SC 9.8. I don't see anything on th bike specifying torque limit, nor could I find anything in the manual. Thanks

2Nm max on the brake cover bolts. The 2mm hex you access through those side holes (one on each side) is for pad width and centering adjustments. ..it doesn't need a torque limit. ..shouldn't ever feel tight.

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Carl Matson

Off topic but I have a two part question.

1) Does anyone know how thick the stock arm pads are on the Speed Concept?

2)Does anyone have a recommendation for one that are thinner that will fit?

I'm trying to get lower and I'm running out of places to to remove it from.

Thanks

cut up an old mouse pad or buy some foam board from your local hobby store, you can make it as thick/thin as you like by stacking layers. Some double sided velcro (also hobby store) to secure them. ~$4

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

1) nominal is 10mm

2) leegoocrap's suggestion is a common one

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Carl Matson

RE: Brake covers

I am building up an XL sized SC and the frame needs brakes and covers. Basically, will a L front cover work with an XL frame. I found an L cover for decent price. Wonder if it wont be 'tall' enough or just wont fit right.

Those covers are $$$.

Im guessing brakes are same size across the board.

Brake covers are size specific other than the medium and extra small, which share the same one.

Brakes themselves are identical across all sizes.

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Carl Matson

I noticed my turning became very difficult and unsteady....almost wobbly. Is the headset/cockpit coming loose?