when you set up brakes properly, they run smoothly. I didn't have any issues with brakes so far.
You can put whatever brake pads you like, but look after that pads suite braking surface of your rims.

Biggest issue with the brakes is the spring can wear out and you have to buy a new front brake set. Also, the brakes use an adjustment bolt that takes a 3mm allen key that rounds REALLY easily.

In terms of stopping power... they work fine.

Has anyone fitted a Shimano SM-EW90-B (5 port) junction box under the top tube cover? mine seems not fitting it, as it seems that five port junction box has slightly bigger physical dimensions then a three port... How have you solved this problem? This is a TT frame, not a triathlon one.
thanks

A Drempel did it. Cut the most of the backside of the junction box



Question. Who uses a 4iii precision 3 on his trinity? The clearance looks really tiny at the adjustment bold for the brake

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Follow my project on Project 100 miles / 4 hours

Hi all,

Just learning the ropes with Tri, been an avid road and mtb cyclist for over 35 years. I've been a proud supporter of both our local bike club and local Tri club for years. Volunteered at our local IM 70.3 for 3 years and now finally getting into some Tri's with the goal of 2 half's this year and a bunch of shorter ones as I learn.

This past week I picked up a 2016 Trinity Advanced Pro 1. Ultegra DI2 (6870), I've been a DA2 guy since 2013 and have always built up and wired my own bikes. I figured that with the 6870 I could easily swap out the derailleurs if needed and keep the e-tube junction boxes, etc. in place. Doesn't seem like the brake/shift levers and shift buttons on the extensions have changed much over the years.

I've already screwed a couple of things up in the building of the bike from shipping. The bike was missing the M4 screw that holds the base bar to the top stem, replaced afterwards by one I had in my tool box. Of course when assembling the bike I didn't realize how close the tolerances were with the e-tube wires and behind the front spacers. Ended up tearing apart the wire going from left brake/frt derailleur shifter to junction box B (happy surprise to me, stored in the front and not in the BB area). Of course those are hard wired to the brake lever and since the wires had already been threaded through the base bar I decided to splice and solder the torn wires together. Those suckers are tiny, I ended up removing the wire shielding with my thumb nail such small gage I couldn't even use wire strippers lol! At any rate all fixed and now functional.

Few questions while I work on basic fit (will get a pro fit next week):

1. I have a feeling that the extensions may be a little too low and angles to be a little too sleek. I've seen in photos that some people have their extensions angled up more. Are there angled spacers that I can use between the base bar and extensions or do I need to get all new extensions with larger bends?

2. Since the entire front end seems to be proprietary, am I stuck with the current base bar and spacers (teardrop shaped front and rear), or are there aftermarket base bars that I could get if the fitter feels like I need to?

3. Mine came with Hed Jet wheels, alloy brake track and carbon fairings, seem to be 80mm rear and 60mm frt or thereabouts. I don't know if they came with the bike, all my google searches make it seem like they were aftermarket, but I've noticed that on this thread a couple seem to have the same wheels. I'm trying to find out the model number and year to see if there's any chance that they may be tubeless compatible, any thoughts?

4. Going to have to get something for hydration. I'm thinking of something in between the extensions which currently are set 100mm apart. I do not have the one that may have originally come with the bike. Any suggestions on a front mounted hydration system?

I think that's it for now. This weekend after my regular road ride I plan to finish cleaning and tuning the bike, shifting isn't quite as crisp as I'm used to. Hoping it will just be adjustments and not a bent hanger. Then perhaps a good 40mile shake down ride on Sunday just to get used to the feel.

Any help or ideas with the stuff above would be greatly appreciated. I know that it's a pretty old bike at this point in time!

If you take off the tire and tube there should be some writing on the inside of the rim, maybe even under the rim tape. Then reach out to HED with the info and they can let you know if they are tubeless or not. Someone else may know what the codes mean, but if not, hed will.

You can get some angled wedge spacers specifically for the Trinity. Search Fourier Giant Trinity on eBay and you’ll see them. The stock spacers on the Trinity have little pins that stick out and are specific that have to align with your wedge if you want it under the extensions. Otherwise you can get a standard angle wedge elsewhere but it will only fit and angle your arms pads and not your extensions.

As far as extra parts go for hydration etc. Check this site out

https://www.giantbikespares.com/search.php?k_m=Trinity

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"Heart Rate, Watts, I have no idea, I race, I don't pace." Andrew Starykowicz

Will do thanks so much. My ADD likes this option since the tire names aren’t directly across from the valve stems anyway. Gives me a valid excuse to remove and reinstall!

Perfect thanks so much for the links will go check them out!

Hi again,

So more advice time; Just got back from the fitting, all went relatively well, bike is definitely right size overall. However, due to some hip binding he would like me to add about 20mm of stack under the armrests. This would bring me to 60mm overall. Assuming I can get bolts long and strong enough, is there any problem with my adding more spacers and height? He also wants me to angle the armrests up (not the overall clamp) and replace the extensions for more of a ski bend style, basically bringing my wrists up vs. out. Lastly he mentioned that should move the arm rests out a little bit wider. He suggested I reach out to Tri rig for the extensions as well as the spacers to move out the rests but I'm sure there are other companies to look at as well.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Yup! I used ski bends when I had Trinity and did something similar to what you're saying.

Bridge and Spacers: >>> Giant Trinity Advanced Pro Arm Rest Spacers, 2016+, 13217OB0008A1 (giantbikespares.com). The bridge alone >>> Giant Trinity Advanced Pro Arm Rest Bridge, 1321-WS0180-001 (giantbikespares.com) will help keep it secure once you get to a certain height that feels unstable. Fourier also makes a bridge for the Trinity. If you need bolts, I imagine you can go to any hardware store and find something that would work.

Extenders: I bought the wingspan extenders from TrirRig below and they worked great! They make great products, so you won't be disappointed.
Wingspan Extenders – TriRig. I searched hard for other options simply because of price, but nothing seemed to do what TriRig offered.

Wedges: I originally bought these angled wedges from Matt Bottrill's website. He's a big Giant Trinity guy. These go under the arm pads but do not raise your poles if that's what he wants. I ended up finding that I needed angled clamps to raise both pads and poles since my hands were too high above the poles.
15 Degree Angled Arm Pad Adaptor | mbpcwebsitegf (mattbottrillperformancecoaching.com)

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"Heart Rate, Watts, I have no idea, I race, I don't pace." Andrew Starykowicz

You sir, are the man… thank you!

Hi all,

i own a giant Trinity advanced "non pro" of 2018 that i really like, i have a nice offer for a 2021 Trinity advanced Pro 1 with SRAM Etap, of course it would be interesting to move to electronic shifting, but in matter of CDA, do you think the difference between the "pro version" and the "non pro" is enough to justify the switch, how many watts are saved with the fully integrated cockpit of the pro version ?

Thanks for your help

Anyone ???

The only measurable gain is your joy having etap instead of mech. For a tri or TT bike, it’s a game changer being able to shift from the brakes and extensions.

Hey all - great resource on this bike. I am building up a trinity tri frameset from new and just wanted to ask if anyone has set-up tips that are good to get right from day one.

It will be etap and I'm not using the front liquid container - mainly be riding it in 10 and 25 TTs. So I'm thinking the brake cabling is the main thing to consider - read a few guys saying non-UK style gave a better cable run (front on the left).
If there's nothing to worry about then that's also great to hear! Bang some wheels and a drivetrain on and hit the road.

Etap or new Shimano Di2 is the way to go with this bike to get ride of additional wires clogging up that front end. Mine is 11speed Di2 and I've wrecked two wires over the past 5 years despite taking incredibly good care of it. I always joke that this bike is designed to go one way, straight. Turning it wrecks it. Wireless gets around most of the problem.

I suggest some heat shrink wrap over the brake housing because again, turning it eventually wears through the housing.

I bought some 15 degree Fourier spacers to get a better rise and I really like the new position. Otherwise, the bike rips!

Oh, and I bought the UCI legal front end kit a couple years ago to do shorter TT's like you're doing. I haven't made sense of the new rules for 2023 so maybe someone can tell me if the old (and current) stoke fork and handlebar are actually UCI legal now!?

Thanks JV, I'll check out the brake lines when I build up.

UCI regs don't matter for UK TTing, so I don't know what the score is there currently. I just picked the tri version because it's considered very marginally faster than the TT, according to a few guys I spoke to at events, due to the deeper front end. Doubt there is much in it.

Hey all,

My Front brakes are centered well and I'm pretty sure I have the retention springs set properly (they are both tight). But my front brake doesnt snap back on release anymore, it stays closed and in contact with the front wheel. Any advice?

Buy a new set of front brakes. The spring is worn out and you can't fix it. Same thing happened on my bike after a couple of years.

dang, ok thank you!

Hi all,

I have an issue currently where my left side aerobar on both my old giant ski bend and new aero coach angles extension is a slight bit lower at all times than the right one. This becomes worse when the bolts are tightened to recommended torque.

I have no idea why this is the case. I was thinking to maybe swap the spacers around and see if that is the reason.

Has anyone else had this issue and has resolved it?

On a separate note i brought the bike second hand and it seems the front brake adjustment screw is rounded - does anyone no an easy way they managed to unscrew it?

Cheers

Jared

If you buy a new set of bolts that run through the spacers, they now come with these little rubber grommets that help hold the bolt in the correct orientation. Those grommets do fall out though and then you'll get play in the aerobar which isn't that big of a deal. You might also be missing a washer on one of the bolts.

As for the brake adjustment screw, you can try to completely unscrew it with a torx bit or grab an old allen wrench and glue it in there. In both cases, I'd replace the bolt.

Could you send a pic of these grommets and where they go? At present all that each bolt has is a washer but the manual seems to mention handlebar plug and handlebar rings too on each. I don't seem to have these.

It seems that it is the front left bolt that slowly pulls down the bar - particularly if torqued to 6nm. All the bolts and spacers are the same and i have swapped them around and looked at the grooves/holes in the bar and they seem the same - hence i have no idea why just one seems to pull down more.

My fix at present is to just torque the front one to a bit less so it is tight but not as low.

here

The triangular pieces sit pressed between the base bar and the bolt.