Appreciate your help.
I only have one of those pieces and they don't stay in. Regardless i cant see how that is the issue as the bolt seems straight so I am at a loss now.

Does anyone know if the Large bottle Hydration can be bodged to work with a small frame?


I know the S frame should use the Small bottle & a large spacer at the bottom.
But that only like 600ml and the spacer is surprisingly heavy


Wonder if the Large bottle & no space would fit or does it rub on the front wheel 🤷‍♂️




On the flip side, does anyone know anything about what Gustav Iden was running at Kona 2022?
He has a S frame and believe it was a custom made hydration bottle. Seem to remember hearing it was fiberglass and larger volume but cant find any details now
Photo of it here:

https://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/General_Fit_Articles/Bike_Positions_of_the_Male_Pros_in_Kona_8518.html

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Full-time Engineer / Part-time Pro Triathlete
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/benwgoodfellow/
Strava - https://www.strava.com/athletes/3085032
Website - https://benwgoodfellow.wixsite.com/bengoodfellow

Yes it fits. I have a small, and have both a small and medium sized water bottle. Note that there are only two sizes of bottle anyway.

I had to move the front mount which attaches to the front nose down to the lowest location. I have to loose the bottom section of the waterbottle as there is not enough clearance between the bottle and front wheel.

Hi All.

New to rhe Giant Trinity and wanted to ask some basic advise.

Is there a specific technique to installing and removing the rear wheel?

Currently seems like a bit of a faff in trying to remove the wheel. As it mounts directly from the rear it just seems awkward.

I'm used to my Propel which the wheel drops from the bottom and you can articulate the rear mech and remove the wheel.

With the rear mount option I have to remove the skewers to be able to get it around the chain!

Thanks

Thanks Mate, that is exactly what I wanted to hear. The bottom section is so heavy for what it does (nothing) anyway 👍

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Full-time Engineer / Part-time Pro Triathlete
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/benwgoodfellow/
Strava - https://www.strava.com/athletes/3085032
Website - https://benwgoodfellow.wixsite.com/bengoodfellow

No worries at all. Let me post some images of the two bottles setup on the bike just to clarify it more for you. I'll post them later today when I get home.

My bike currently has the higher stem installed and is the 2020 version.

Hey Ben.

I have a large and an extra small framed Trinity in the workshop right now.

Can see if it will work on Friday and take pics unless Johnser gets there first.

Pat.

Hi Guys!

I'm building up an Advanced Pro 2 and for those of us still running a mech setup, how do you route the front derailleur cable to not have an awful tight turn as it turns to leave the frame?

Also do you run cable housing all the way to the exit hole in the frame?

This is not my frame but it's the same exit hole for those wondering, is there supposed to be a guide or something that acts as a cable stop if you do route the housing all the way?


Thanks for your help guys!

Hi. The cable stop is the frame - your end cap just sits underneath the hole and the gear cable pokes out through the hole in the frame - use and end cap with a long nose on it though like the one in the attached pic. A better option and what I'd do if the frame is out of warranty would be to drill out the hole to 4mm and use a full gear outer from shifter right through to that type of Shimano front mech in your picture that has a cable stop built into it. Pat.

Hi All.

Front hydration pics.

So, the big bottle from a Large frame will not fit on an Extra Small frame.

The lower fairing from the Large frame bottle will fit on the bottle from the Extra Small frame though and make it a lot more aero ;-)

Mega helpful, thanks so much Avoneer!

What are you guys using for straws on the aero bottle? The one that came with it was useless for me.

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Human Person

Hi Ben

Appologies for the delay, but the forum wont let me attach images. I can see you have the images from the XS frame. Its almost identical with the Small frame, except you need to loose the bottom part of the bottle which sits just above the tyre. Unless you can get the very small addon, rather than the size we have.

Still looks ok and way better than the small bottle on the small frame.

Regards
John

Just a bit of a PSA.

I have just bought a Trinity Advanced Pro which is a 2020 model and it only has about 2.5k KMs on it. Im in the process of servicing the bike and doing a full strip and rebuild with DI2.

The reason for the Public Service Announcment is becuase my headset was fully rusted out and also both brakes are on their way to being bad. Wasnt expecting this as the bike is just over 2 years old and not a huge amout of mileage.

The mechanics amoungst us here can confirm if they see this on TT bikes specifically, but I'd say its probably best to get the brakes and headset serviced quite regularily on the bike.

Probably the reason for the rust on the headset would defo be from sweat and probably its use on a turbo trainer, as the sweat would primarily fall just over the front stem/headset area.

I was actually expecting the brakes to also require work, even though operated perfectly, but when I bought my 2014 Propel, it suffered in exactly the same way. The bushings on which the brakes pivot were starting to show corrosion, on both the front and rear. Also the stabilizing pin on the fronts, which inserts into the frame was badly rusted on one side.

On the rear the mounting bolt was heavily corroded and I was lucky to get it removed before it was too late. The area behind the rear wheel which houses the top of the bolt was full of crud and this speeded up the corrosion on the bolt. Will cover this area when Im finished with some frame protector which will stop it building up again.

One of the pivots which the rear brakes use was also corroded and will probably now need to be replaced.

Just something to watch out for if you cycle in the wet,or regularily use a turbo.

My Propel now has Fouriers brakes, as the original brakes which the Propel came with were a bit pants (first Gen version). I take appart and regrease the brakes each year now on the Propel and will do the same on the Trinity. Just waiting on my replacment headset bearings for the Trinity now. Not an expensive part though, only about £17 all in.

Also meant to add...

When disassembling the front end, I didnt notice any grease on the headset. Not to say that there wasnt any, I just didnt notice if there was any. Now I know it depends on who you ask, wheter a headset bearing needs to be greased, I'm in the camp of greasing the bearing. Mainly for weather protection if anything.

Because there was no grease in this area, it defo accelerated the impact of the sweat in creating the rust, and if your has been greased, its probably not going to impact you as much.

Hi have a Liv Avow but am posting here as they appear to have the same setup stem/bar as the Giant Trinity! I'm disspaointed in how little information there is from Giant on sizing and adjusting the bars. I bought my bike used, so i'm having to source the pieces online (which I've been relatively sucessfull at doing).

I'm guessing the answer is "No" but just in case... is it possible to rise the base bar in any way? I have shims to raise the aero bars, but am just waiting on the bolts to arrive (I'm working with a bike fitter). I see there are spaces are available for the stem (https://www.giantbikespares.com/...oduct_detail/3-43250) but I assume these are just replacements.

My bike is a 2018 and appears to be setup the same as the Trinity! I want to rase the base bar as I think climbing is really going to suck on this bike... I'll have to raise the aero bars at least 3cm and the base bar is going to be so low!!

Any advice appreciated :) Picture for effect - this isn't my bike, but its the same one!

They do sell a different stem that gives some rise. You can also try angled tilt blocks. I bought some from Aerocoach and they made a big difference as well.

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Human Person

Any chance you have a link to those stems? I can't find anything like that... I do see the 3rd part tilt blocks, but again, I believe those will just affect the aero bars, not the base bar!

I do not. Sorry. My LBS ordered the stem for me. Here's the tilt block: https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/...components-c51437190

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Human Person

Hi.

You can flip the base bar to give more height where the brakes are - I've done this on several Trinity's - not the easiest job to do either.

Pat.

Just bought a new trinity with force group set.
Noted a creaking noise in rear brake and found out the brake cover is touching small chain ring screws at every pedal stroke. Have anyone faced this ?
I reinstalled and no Lucky as chain ring clearance is minimal. Wondering if bike shop forgot to install a spacer for crankset?

Hi. It can be adjusted. There’s a concave spacer washer between the brake pad holder and the brake arm. New Trinity’s came with a thick one and a thin one. The other option is to use narrower pads such as Swiss Stop Black Prince Evo or even trim/sand a couple of mm off your current brake pads. They’re a pain in the bum to set up, but it can be done without any rubbing.
Pat.

I had issue with the crankset and fairing and finally just dremmelled out a section of the fairing.

Decided on a complete change of cockpit on my Trinity.

Old setup was AeroCoach arm pads, D2Z poles and Fouriers tilt blocks.
New setup is Carbon Wasp poles and adjustable tilt blocks. Also had to swap the bar end blips to internal routing, ditched the fluid cell as its shite anyway and is only really any good at covering rider and bike in sweet sticky goop.

I am having trouble centering my rear wheel. When it’s in the dropouts it’s off center towards the drive side and is locked up with the frame. If I bring the wheel to be in line with the rear of the bike, it’s not engaged with the left side dropout and will eventually push into place on a ride and “lock up”. Anyone else experience this?