Yeah I know let me have it, non-drive side pic, but I was taking a pic of both my bikes in this pic.........

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-Brad Williams
Website | Twitter: @BW_Tri |Instagram: @BW_Tri | Strava | Co-Founder & Coach at: KIS Coaching
Partnered with: Zoot Sports | Precision Fuel &Hydration | ISM

Man oh man, how can you ride either of those bikes without sliding off the seats. Seriously, get a proper bike set up. Those seats are just wrong. You'll be using so much of your upper body just to stay on the bike.

I'm trying to decide between the P3 & P4. You mentioned keeping the P3 as your long course bike. Is there a reason for this beyond your setup? Thanks.

Nice bikes. I am new to road bikes, still researching for the first. Are most of these bought as a frame and parts are added as the rider preference or are they be bought "off the floor"? I guess that is a general statement for most tri-bikes and riders.

If you are buying a bike brand new, by a long way the cheapest option is to buy a complete bike, that is, frame, group set (gears, brakes etc that make the frame go somewhere) and wheels.

The wheels won't be race wheels, but usually good quality training wheels.

There are two options:
1) A road bike, which you can add clip on aero bars to.
2) A time trial bike.

For example, the poster above with the two cervelos. The road bike is the white one, and the other bike is a dedicated time trial bike.

There are some good articles on slowtwitch main site about choosing a bike.

Once you get the initial complete bike, the next thing most people purchase is a pair of race wheels, that are usually lighter but most importantly more aero-dynamic then training wheels.

Thanks Dynamic.

Wow that bike is sweet! I really like the gold.

Changed things a bit from this picture (moved saddle back a little, cleaned up cables). Love this bike to death, still can't believe I get to ride something so nice.

Whole bike built for about $2100

will some of you folks, please, PLEASE cut the excess steerer tube off above your stems? :'(

i don't have excess steerer tube! :)

I'm trying to decide between the P3 & P4. You mentioned keeping the P3 as your long course bike. Is there a reason for this beyond your setup? Thanks.

Yep. There's a very important reason. It's an excuse to keep the bike. ;-) Seriously, the more time I spend on the P4, the more I can't wait to see what kind of 112 split I could do on it.

The P4 is a lighter bike. I know a lot of folks think that doesn't matter, but it can. I've only done one race on it but my performance relative to a bunch of folks I race against quite frequently was pretty substantially better. The only thing that should give you pause is if you like to mess with your bike a lot and do your own work. It's a royal pain in the ass to work on. The internal cable routing scheme just plain sucks. There's no sugar-coating it. I've changed out bars and done a few things a few times that required me to re-cable the bike and it's a horrendous nightmare. With the learning curve, it becomes just a plain nightmare. And as has been said in many threads, the rear brake is pretty much just an ornament.

The P4 is like being married to a gorgeous, glamourous woman. She can be a royal pain in the ass to keep her happy, but oh my, when you get to ride her ...!

That's great information, I appreciate it. I know aero trumps weight but if you can have both, why wouldn't you. And as for the rear brake, I used to own a Zipp 2001 back in the day so I'm used to a token rear brake :)

Funny thing is the R3 had not been ridden but for about 5 miles at that time and last night I actually had adjusted the seat and tilted it up a little more. The seat angle on the P3 is not that bad and I do not have any soreness, I have been wanting to mess with it but just haven't had the time. It is comfortable for me so why mess with it? Thanks for pointing it out though when I get a chance and have some time to play with my position a little more I will tweak it.

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-Brad Williams
Website | Twitter: @BW_Tri |Instagram: @BW_Tri | Strava | Co-Founder & Coach at: KIS Coaching
Partnered with: Zoot Sports | Precision Fuel &Hydration | ISM

Here was mine pre-steerer tube cutting and pre theft.

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Link to my photography
http://davidsavoiephotography.blogspot.com/
http://davidsavoiesports.blogspot.com/

So what's the story w/ painting your P3 in Fuji stripes?

With modern pads and holders, the Zipp brake is just fine. I actually ride around on mine quite a bit with only a rear brake.

Chris

I actually raise & lower the cockpit by 1-2 spacers depending on the time of year and type of race... all the way up when i'm fat and not racing any in the spring, plus my one IM where I valued comfort more than for shorter races; in the middle (1 spacer above & below) for Oly or HIM when I need to save a little for the run; and all the way down for sprints/TTs with short or no run. Sorry.

Was her's...she's probably a bit faster than me though :-p.

WTH? Is this a Fuji sponsored athlete who wanted to ride a P3 in TT events???

WTH? Is this a Fuji sponsored athlete who wanted to ride a P3 in TT events???


This should be good. You might want to duck and cover.

Wow, so I guess Kristin didn't ride the Aloha? :)

Thinking of having some of these made up for mine for the downtube:

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Want: 58cm Cervelo Soloist. PM me if you have one to sell

Vintage Cervelo: A Resource

Stop teasing us with decals, non-descript shots of your build and other items that you have built and just show us the damn build will you.

Show us the:

Aerobar set up, custom parts, disc wheel, basebar and other items that you have done