It could be any of them, can’t rule out any. Anyway, stopped riding the bike after getting a Cervelo P5disc It now got a special place in my shop/fit studio.
It is my best excuse to get a new bike every other year or so. I need to ‘test’ ride the new stuff ;-) Some bikes I sell, some I keep.
This is on e is a keeper, like my old Zipp 2001. They are just so special to look at.

Jeroen

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

Fredly,

Quick question: What is the torque spec on the binder bolts that clamp the seat clamp hardware to the seatpost? (the barrel nuts in the seatpost)

Thanks!

Eric

The torque spec for the bolt that connects the saddle clamping mechanism to the top of the seatpost is 5-7nm.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Is there supposed to be a dust cover for the top head set bearing? - seems a bit odd if the stem is meant to go straight on top of the bearing

No top cap/dust cover is used with installation of the Diamondback brand stem and/or spacers, but it's included in the package in case anyone chooses to use an aftermarket stem. 1" top caps are hard to find these days.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Hey everyone,

Thanks for the feedback and in all honesty, I'm happy to keep my old S3 around and use it on the trainer with similar-ish coordinates.

I doubt I could push the watts to flex much of anything, but that said, I want to be about to roll on the road with this baby in the spring like you can't believe.

I really appreciate the support and advice. I'm sure I'll be posting questions about this bike often.

Rob

I’ll use my Andean on my Tacx neo, the trainer has decent flex and after a few years no issues, but if I do any big power climbing on the trainer I will throw my toad bike on.

I had two (different) top caps with the frameset - looks like a flat one for the Andean stem and a generic one that came with the headset. However, no dust cap for the top bearing. I’m going to use an Aeria Ultimate stem (if I can find a shim that will fit), should I just put a spacer directly on top of the bearing and below the shim and be good to go? - need a spacer under the stem anyway, since it goes so low that it won’t clear the head tube without a spacer

IIRC, you need at least a centimeter of spacer in place for the Aeria Ultimate stem to clear the "nosecone" on the front of the frame. When we had the Custom Shop running at Diamondback, we would grind down one of the Andean specific spacers to match the profile of the Aeria stem. I would recommend that if you have the ability to do so (It really just takes a few minutes with a belt sander).

Alternatively, you will want to run a standard style top cap and as many spacers as necessary to hit your positional requirements/clear the head tube.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Sounds about right - I “test fitted” a 5mm Andean spacer and a 5mm regular spacer and it seemed to clear the nose cone, with the lip of the shim, it certainly will. Grinding one of the 10mm spacers would be a nice finishing touch, But I seriously doubt I’ll be arsed to do it. Going to fit the Aeria Ultimate hydration, so it won’t really show anyway. And it’s nice to keep the parts Stock, if I decide to sell at some point, But I did cut the steerer short enough so all the spacers won’t fit anyway.

Drop a line to the Diamondback customer service folks, they should be more than happy to hook you up with an extra spacer so you can grind one down & still have the stock assortment.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Did shave Down one of the 5 mm spacers and cut off the very front of it and added 7mm “regular” spacers on the shim, in order for the hydration clip to clear the nose cone.
However, biggest issue so far has been routing hydraulic Lines and di2 cables through the stem and base bar. Especially since the front brake Line goes through the frame

It's definitely more difficult to do this with the Profile stem than it is with the stem that comes with the bike. You'll want to use some kind of a cable routing kit.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Did make it happen at last with some pieces of string and a lot more patience than I thought I’d have.
Main problem being that aside from the routing itself, everything had to pass through the stem, while Holding the handlebars.
Basically, this could have been made easier, had there been and internal guide tube. Making the hydraulic line do a 90 degree turn does take some persuation.
Adding to the frustration, the stem top cap bolt for the Aeria Ultimate is about 2cm too long, as the headset expander plug doesn’t allow the bolt to go all the way through. That was solved with an angle grinder. Now, off to bleed the brakes and adjust the calipers. It’ll be interesting to see How far “off” my initial fit Will be, as I had to add more spacers under the stem, than I thought. May have to remove most if the risers in the aerobar

Like I said, it's much easier with the stock stem.

The access hatch on the side of the Andean allows you to stick your entire arm inside the frame to pull cables. If you add routing guides, this access goes away. On balance, this winds up being an easier/faster solution than molding in cable routing guides, which are essentially always optimized for one particular routing solution that may or may not be the one that would work best for your build.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Since the Stock stem has a couple of plastic guides, yes. But I doubt I could route the cables internally then (cant see the holes in the Aeria Ultimate bars being Big enough). As for a cable guide, I meant inside the base bar, frame was easy enough, maybe in part because I did that first. The only obstacle I encountered was the bottom bracket - since I’m used to BSA types, and hadn’t thought about the fact that the BB isn’t open to the tubes (if that makes sense). And maybe the fact that I was re-using cables that are technically long enough, But short enough that I had to attach RD, FD and battery to a junction in the blind.
All that being said, I’m looking forward to a test ride tomorrow. Just a basic, “do the brakes work, How does it handle, are the gears adjusted properly” and maybe a couple of photos.
Still need a wheelset, RD and FD (borrowed derailleurs from my Road bike), fit adjustment, cutting the Aeria HSF rubber sleeve. Looking forward to be able to ride this bike, But for anyone else, Can’t really recommend using the Aeria Ultimate stem/bar combo with this frame - takes some adjustments and is sort of fiddly, if you’re building it yourself

Aeria bars aren't bad at all for routing, pretty much on par with everything else. Again, the stem is definitely much, much harder to deal with than the stock DB one.

The "trick" is to set up the cockpit first, then feed the housing into the frame. Don't attach the cockpit to the bike until it is completely assembled/cabled, and do this assembly/cabling on a bench or table. Once you have the whole front end ready to go, run the cables back through the frame. Bolting the front end on to the bike is one of the *last* things you do.

Also - and, should be obviously - ideally you don't route anything until you have determined what you're going to need to do to hit your fit coordinates.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Most of my problems had to do with the Aeria Ultimate stem - no shim with the set, grunding a spacer Down, bedring another spacer.
As for handlebar cable routing, might not be different than anything else, aside from doing 2 90 degree bends already at the stem. A guide to insert to cables into, wether being di2, hydraulic or mechanical to ease the 90 degree turn would be helpful on any handle bar.
And yes, should have started at the cockpit, But due to all the fiddling around with shims and spacers, I started a the calipers (di2 routing wasnt really a problem). However, with the routing to the front caliper on the Andean frameset, I Think it would have been even more fiddly starting at the cockpit.

Still, base bar Will stay where it is and pad height/fore aft Will be adjusted with a fit. My “trial” fit, I had 55mm of risers and the base var is only about 10mm higher, so thats easy enough to solve. Just curious where my saddle ends up in relation to pads fore/aft

[/email]Fredly, is there a fitting that goes over the steerer tube & fits in the plastic hole so you can torque the cap down? Mikedawn123@gmail.com

Do you mean the compression plug? Like this?



If so, yes. The frame/bike should come with one. If you need one, any standard model sized for a 1" steer tube should work.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Apparently I got the last Andean 2 in stock...
Or So I think... hope my order goes through.

Fredly,

Do you happen to know what size crank does the S size come with?

I read in the thread that having this bike on the trainer is not advisable, is this is correct?

thanks!

I do not, sorry. Those bikes came in after I left.



We considered trainer use "normal usage" for warranty purposes when I was with the company, but I do not know what the current policy is.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Ah!

Thanks for the information...

Now here to hoping the bike is not "too small" for me...

I am "5'6" and the bike say that the max... will see..

It will, of course, depend on your actual fit coordinates, but I would be surprised if the size S frame is too small for you.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/