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Re: DIY Chain wax [rob_bell] [ In reply to ]
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Possibly. But, It's hard to know if you don't do one more. I change out the spirits until they come clear.

I'd do a second rinse a few times. If it ALWAYS clear, then you might skip and go straight to the alcohol step.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [rob_bell] [ In reply to ]
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rob_bell wrote:
Is one 24hr mineral spirit bath with shakes followed by one alcohol bath enough?

It looks and feels squeaky clean to me. I did add some brake cleaner to the MS step; don't know if that helped.

I was surprised to not find any tiny metal particles left behind after cleaning the Shimano chains. There were particles inside the KMC and Sram chains.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [Calvin386] [ In reply to ]
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But . . . EVERY WEEK? That's a serious gouge into weekly training time. To me, the time and the frequency (not to mention the quantity of materials) incur too much cost for the benefit provided. I'd rather ride my bike.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [trail] [ In reply to ]
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trail wrote:
I use two heated ultrasonic cleaners.

In one I clean everything, cassettes too, in a basket, just using dish soap. The heat does a good job of melting all the wax.

Then I rinse and put the cassettes back on, move the chains to the ultrasonic cleaner with melted wax. Without evidence, I like to think the ultrasonic bit does a good job of getting the wax into all the interior surfaces pretty quickly.

This probably isn't necessary for purely road chains, but gravel and mountain bike action can leave caked residue on both the chain and cassette (despite the advantages of wax in shedding dirt), and I don't like to contaminate my wax bath with old wax.

If you are getting wax residue on the cassette, you are doing something wrong.
All I do for MTB chains is wipe off dust or if really covered a quick rinse under a tap and then throw it in the fryer.
There is no real reason to ever clean the cluster or rings unless you are putting the chain on with wax on the outside of the chain and mashing in some dirt.
Wipe all outside wax off the chain and everything will stay clean.
There is no reason to have any lubrication on the external faces of a chain unless for rust prevention on cheaper chains.
All sliding of metal on metal occurs inside the chain.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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Are you measuring wax temp? Or just going by the setting on the fryer?
Last edited by: jstonebarger: Dec 30, 19 10:07
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Re: DIY Chain wax [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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All I do for MTB chains is wipe off dust

That's adorable.

Then you don't MTB like I MTB. :)

I just spend the weekend going through sometimes-axle-deep sandy mud. You get greasy "fines" all through the drivetrain. You don't just "wipe the dust off."

Trail gets stuff *dirty* . Real dirty.

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All sliding of metal on metal occurs inside the chain.

Thanks.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [trail] [ In reply to ]
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trail wrote:
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Trail gets stuff *dirty* . Real dirty.

One of the things I love most about waxing the chain is it collects less crap in the worst conditions.

My last cyclocross race this season involved a lot of sand. Only with a waxed chain could I do that entire race without hearing sand grind away at my cassette.

Last year Nationals in Kentucky was ankle deep mud. Sure, it got everywhere -- I was covered from head to toe -- but the waxed chain worked great & really did seem to collect less. It made me think of the old days when folks would spray Pam on their drive trains before muddy races.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [FlashBazbo] [ In reply to ]
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FlashBazbo wrote:
But . . . EVERY WEEK? That's a serious gouge into weekly training time. To me, the time and the frequency (not to mention the quantity of materials) incur too much cost for the benefit provided. I'd rather ride my bike.


The time consuming aspect is the initial cleaning and stripping of a brand new chain. Once that is done and you are simply re-waxing chains it takes all of a minute to do a few chains. Turn on the slow cooker and melt the wax and come back when that's done and swish the chain around in the melted wax and then hang it up to dry.
Last edited by: Bdaghisallo: Dec 30, 19 13:22
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Re: DIY Chain wax [Bdaghisallo] [ In reply to ]
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Exactly. I finally tried waxing because I'm lazy about bike maintenance: The luxury of a clean drive train more than makes up for the initial set-up time, and subsequent waxing is quick and easy.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [jstonebarger] [ In reply to ]
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jstonebarger wrote:
I was covered from head to toe -- but the waxed chain worked great & really did seem to collect less. It made me think of the old days when folks would spray Pam on their drive trains before muddy races.

That's all true, and consistent with my experience. It collects less, and is overall easier to maintain. But I still have to clean things from time to time.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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Hey, someone who actually read the op/watched the video.

I know diy waxing is a thing, I was more interested in thoughts and opinions on the recipe proposed.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [MattyK] [ In reply to ]
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Who knows? Seriously, the video lays out a lot of particulars with little proof or even explanation.

Meanwhile, every resource I see about waxing chains offers conflicting information. For example, check https://www.bikeradar.com/...-chain-lube-formula/ for "the fastest/best formula" that's nearly 100:1 wax to PTFE, and works best at much higher temp than the first video suggests. Who's right?

Apparently wax is easy to use and works well. Whether exactly how you put it on or adding PTFE helps a lot, I don't know.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [MattyK] [ In reply to ]
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Good lord! 25m video on waxing? I made it through the 7 around the "discussion" of the ptfe ratio. After he used a knob on his work bench to loosen the chain joints, and went into a long diatribe on cleaning the groove of the missing link... I lost patience!

I can't imagine why anyone would wax a chain after watching that? Could he possibly make it seem any more involved/complicated?

As far as the ratio... Who knows? He said that he did tons of testing, but didn't present any results. Really nothing to comment on. Yep, it's a ratio.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [MattyK] [ In reply to ]
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SOLD!!! I am soooooooooooo over getting black chain grease in my car, on my hands before/after cycling on the trainer, etc.

For my New Year's Resolution, I am staying clean-YAY!!!

DFL > DNF > DNS
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Re: DIY Chain wax [MattyK] [ In reply to ]
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MattyK wrote:
I know diy waxing is a thing, I was more interested in thoughts and opinions on the recipe proposed.

Keep it simple... simple works.

Back in the day when Friction Facts did their testing, Jason said that the wax alone was the "magic" ingredient. The extra stuff is for people who always want a little more. I wonder if the PTFE and moly particles settle out pretty quickly like the dirt that accumulates at the bottom of the bowl? I'd only mess with that stuff for special races.

One thing I found that seems to help is high temperature like at least 250F. The wax does throw off some fumes at that temperature. Don't do it in the kitchen at dinner time...
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Re: DIY Chain wax [rruff] [ In reply to ]
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Dispersion is a huge problem for particles. They clump together. Need to stir as much as possible. 10% is about the highest concentration you can get without changing the overall properties of the wax. PTFE is magic stuff, you want to pile in as much as possible. Even if clumping this ensures that it gets everywhere.

Moly is the only material that adheres well to steel. I think it deserves further investigation at different concentrations. It may be harming the properties of the mixture by preferentially adhering to the surfaces and displacing the wax.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [ In reply to ]
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not replying to anyone specific, but just out of interest, anyone know what additives is used on the ice wax chains to get that cool blue color?? :)
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Re: DIY Chain wax [SBRcanuck] [ In reply to ]
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I just use a mini crock pot for mine. simple as pie, turn it on, let the wax melt, drop the chain in and let it cook for a while. pull the chain out with a pair of pliers, wipe off excess wax with a paper towel as I'm pulling it out of the pot. hang it up to let it cool off a bit. every once in a while I'll put a ziptie in the wax as it cools, that'll let me pull out the block of wax easily, then scrape off the dirt that's settled to the bottom of the wax with a chisel.

I finally picked up a pair of chain pliers, those make removing the chain so much easier.

Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly
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Re: DIY Chain wax [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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lyrrad wrote:
He states don't go over 85 deg C, no reason just says so, more than likely because Jason at friction facts used 82 deg C, but the only reason he used that temperature is because that is as high as his ultrasonic cleaners would go.
I and others have found that best results are obtained around 150 deg C.

DONT use candles, they have additives to prevent the wax from sticking to molds, this not only makes the wax feel sticky, but also means it does not adhere to the chain properly.
Use pure paraffin, good wax looks bluish white, is very hard and does not feel sticky and is almost translucent to look at near the corners of a block.

Throw the chain in on top of the cold wax and turn it on, go adjust your brakes or watch TV, come back when the wax is fully melted, turn off the pot, lift the basket and let it drain, get an old towel and tip the chain out onto it and wipe off any wax from the outside of the chain, give it a good swoshing around to remove as much as possible.
As soon as it is cool enough to handle, put it on the bike and spin the pedals.

So, on the temperature topic...
What do you mean by "best results" at elevated temps?
And if you're just doing it until (per paragraph 3) the wax is just melted, it won't be much above 70C...

I've only done it extra-hot once after forgetting it for a while and leaving the slow cooker on high. The main thing I noticed was the garage got really smoky, which would suggest the wax was decomposing.

As for candles - I'm using plain white cheap ones from Woolies. I tried some other paraffin beads and they made the chain super sticky. The candles I've used, not so, at least in my experience.

PS don't forget to blow the wax out of the hollow link pins! :D
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Re: DIY Chain wax [MattyK] [ In reply to ]
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MattyK wrote:
lyrrad wrote:

He states don't go over 85 deg C, no reason just says so, more than likely because Jason at friction facts used 82 deg C, but the only reason he used that temperature is because that is as high as his ultrasonic cleaners would go.
I and others have found that best results are obtained around 150 deg C.

DONT use candles, they have additives to prevent the wax from sticking to molds, this not only makes the wax feel sticky, but also means it does not adhere to the chain properly.
Use pure paraffin, good wax looks bluish white, is very hard and does not feel sticky and is almost translucent to look at near the corners of a block.

Throw the chain in on top of the cold wax and turn it on, go adjust your brakes or watch TV, come back when the wax is fully melted, turn off the pot, lift the basket and let it drain, get an old towel and tip the chain out onto it and wipe off any wax from the outside of the chain, give it a good swoshing around to remove as much as possible.
As soon as it is cool enough to handle, put it on the bike and spin the pedals.


So, on the temperature topic...
What do you mean by "best results" at elevated temps?
And if you're just doing it until (per paragraph 3) the wax is just melted, it won't be much above 70C...

I've only done it extra-hot once after forgetting it for a while and leaving the slow cooker on high. The main thing I noticed was the garage got really smoky, which would suggest the wax was decomposing.

As for candles - I'm using plain white cheap ones from Woolies. I tried some other paraffin beads and they made the chain super sticky. The candles I've used, not so, at least in my experience.

PS don't forget to blow the wax out of the hollow link pins! :D


I have found that heating MSW to about 220-230F gives the best results for me.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [JasoninHalifax] [ In reply to ]
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If you're re-waxing a chain that was waxed previously, is it necessary to degrease again prior to waxing? Or do you just wipe/brush it cleanish and put it in the crock pot?
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Re: DIY Chain wax [kylesw] [ In reply to ]
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For regular training, definately the latter---wipe and dunk. For a race, I normally start with a new chain... But, if it's a still pretty new (<500 miles or so), I'll clean it and then rewax.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [kylesw] [ In reply to ]
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kylesw wrote:
If you're re-waxing a chain that was waxed previously, is it necessary to degrease again prior to waxing? Or do you just wipe/brush it cleanish and put it in the crock pot?

I don't even brush it. I just take it off the bike and dunk it in the crock pot.
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Re: DIY Chain wax [Bdaghisallo] [ In reply to ]
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Again, what do you mean by “best results”?
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Re: DIY Chain wax [MattyK] [ In reply to ]
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MattyK wrote:
Again, what do you mean by “best results”?

The higher temp (than what MSW) recommends seems to lead to better penetration of the wax and less of it on the outer plates of the chain. Once I upped the wax temp by accident - I left it too long before checking and couldn't be bothered to wait for it to cool - I found that the chain threw off fewer bits of wax in the initial miles and didn't suffer over the intervals between waxing.
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