Can't help you with what to do but I can say Cervelo's are shipped mostly assembled to the dealers. Surprised though that your LBS, which isn't so local, wouldn't have heard the same noises when they tested rode it. I removed the crank off of mine myself and all you need is an 8mm hex key and a cassette removal tool. There are plenty of Rotor crank removal video's on youtube that will walk you through what is an easy process. You can at least see if the noise is coming from the crankset or is indeed the bottom bracket once you get the crank off you can hand check it to see it its loose or not lubed properly, etc.

The most common culprit of BB creaks is bad install of the bottom bracket or a frame slightly out of spec, or a combination.

Taking the crank off won't resolve it, you need to pull out the BB, clean it, put the right loctite on it, and reinstall. If it persists something like BBinfinite bottom bracket could resolve the problem.

Not sure it will make you feel better but this is a common problem on all BB30 and BBRight frames right now.

Which is almost all of them =)

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Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
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Wheels Mfg. Angular Contact PF30 BB.

Hear me now...or believe me later ;-)

(1/2 the cost of the BBinfinite option as well)

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Would you go back to the original LBS, or if they should have made it right on the first occurence?

I would go back to them if you don't have the tools to do a proper reinstall. You need a press fit tool to install the BB which you can pick up for $30 on eBay, but, the BB was installed at wherever Cervelo has their bikes put in boxes, but the LBS has to finish the process by installing the fork, attaching the bars, putting the wheels on and finish cabling the front brake. I have a new R3 and S3, plus a P5 and have had none of the issues you describe but sounds like a common problem based on the other post.

I also am aware of an assembly problem that pops up with the internal cable routing making getting the front deraileur dialed in very difficult. I finally had someone take a look and they redid the shifter cables. A friend had the same issue. Shifts smooth as silk now. I have the mechanical Ultegra.

Definitely go back to the shop and get them to make it right. I'm just saying that in my experience, SRAM PF30 BBs don't last very long in the first place and once that happens, you can save a lot of time and money if you just replace it with the Wheels unit.

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

I had the same issue had bbinfinite bottom bracket installed so far no creak and smooth. Bike mechanic said was an easy install and the bracket just makes sense.

http://bbinfinite.com/...egory&path=68_69

I tried something before going the LBS, adding some pre-load on the bearings. The issue is: I can get rid of the noise, but then my bearings are wayyyyyy too pre-loaded. I can't even reach a spinning turn when giving it a swing with the chain off. As soon as I reach a lower, decent pre-load, the noise comes back.

I ended up on the thread due to my stock 2014 p2 with 400 miles starting to have a crank noise (like a ticking sound on the down stroke) It started on my last ride and I can't consistently make it happen but it comes and goes and is frustrating/annoying. I purchased the bike new last december and I wouldn't think a new bike should have an issue like this. After reading all the posts I have two questions:

Did you get your issue resolved?

Will continuing to ride damage the frame or bottom bracket?

I am not avoiding the issue, but I am currently 3 hours away from my LBS due to summer work. I will take it back to them where I purchased the P2 due to the fact they need to make it right and I lack the tools to reinstall.

Thanks for taking the time to read all this!!

Seriously, in my opinion ALL Cervelo BBRights need this bottom bracket. The pressfit system and cups are terrible, and nearly all of them cause problems at some point. So x2... hear it now, believe it later.

I would buy a new bottom bracket and install it myself.

This is the only reliable way I've found to quiet my PF BB including loctiting the bearings in.

    
If I had this problem with a new bike I would return it to Cervelo. Make them replace it with one that works. If they can't, insist on a full refund.

I bought a used P5 from one of the biggest Cervelo dealers in the country, who assured me it was all set up correctly. After going through multiple bottom brackets, we determined that

1) The space was too small for any BB to fit in correctly (all the BBs we tried would bind up the second they were installed)
2) The holes are not completely aligned (maybe their mold is screwed up?)

We solved this by:

1) Sanding the inside of the BB hole to bring it to the correct width
2) Installing a BBInfinite BB, which has a tube that ensures the bearings align correctly (despite Cervelo's crappy alignment job)

Now the thing spins beautifully (though still not quite like my old Campy square taper).

Cervelo should be ashamed that they're producing such crap. The perfidious PressFit/BBright design allows them to get away with it and then blame the dealer or the consumer when it doesn't work. You couldn't get away with producing such garbage with threaded BBs (maybe that's why Cervelo switched to BBright).

I will never, ever buy another bike with a PressFit/BBright bottom bracket set up. I hope other cyclists will push back too and the mfgrs will finally listen.

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I also had to resort to fitting a wheels mfg BB into my S3. Loctite on cups and bearings couldn't solve the issue.

Out of spec Rotor cranks are a common cause of BBright problems and this sounds like the case with the original poster as increasing the preload quiets it down.
New Crank and new bearings now that you have run them way too tight.
Give em another go but if it still makes noise get a refund.

I have a 2015 Cervelo R3 (white top tube) and I had a lot of headaches with my bottom bracket. I really don't have the time or patience to write out the whole saga, but after much trial and error, I'll just tell you what I have in my bike now, which so far has been working great -
An xd-15 threaded BBright BB from Enduro bearings - not sure if it's ceramic or steel. Make sure you order the right size - Cervelo's Rotor cranks are quirky. The real breakthrough I had was stumbling upon a video on their Youtube channel which shows you how to remove the bearings from the cup and clean/degrease, relube and reassemble - very easy, but be careful not to lose anything! On Enduro's website they recommended using Mobil xhp-222 all-purpose grease on the bearings, which is good stuff. Put the cleaned & relubed bearings back in the cups. Put a layer of plumber's teflon tape around the cups, right behind the flanges where they contact the frame & BB shell, followed by a coating of Morgan Blue aquaproof paste. I install the drive-side cup first, with the threaded center sleeve, using (in my case) an Enduro BB press. Then thread the other cup on to the sleeve, tighten with the special Enduro wrench, and you're done. Reassemble the crank (lubing the spindle with the Mobil grease) and tighten the preload nut so there is zero play in the crank ( a Rotor rep told me there was no way I could damage the bearings using just my fingers, so make sure it's good and tight). Use a 2mm Allen key on the set screw, finger tight (don't break it, like I did once!). Like I said, so far it's working great - I beat the crap out of that bike on Saturday and it was nice and quiet. I'm describing all this because I've always been wary of going the Loctite route - I know a lot of people swear by Loctite, but I've always considered it a last resort, to be avoided if at all possible. Also, avoid excessive washing of your bike - bearings don't like to get wet (those pro mechanics tear down those bikes after every race, so they can get away with using powerwashers). Just my 2 cents, arrived at through much trial and error, and much wailing and gnashing of teeth. I hate riding a noisy bike myself. Being able to remove, clean and lubricate a bottom bracket has made a big difference, for me, anyway - although you do have to make an investment in parts, tool, etc.

Which combo (BBright + crank) is the best for a silent bike? Without cleaning, relubing,....

This bracket with any Shimano crank:



http://wheelsmfg.com/...no-cranks-black.html

I have that bike, and I think I had that same problem. It was driving me crazy. It almost sounded like a ball was running around the bearing. I removed the crank, carefully pulled the seal off the bearing and smeared as much marine grease into the bearing as I could, reset the seal, and no problems 2 years later. Maybe worth a try if you feel comfortable enough removing a crank.